Posted: 2/27/2026 7:39:28 PM EDT
[Last Edit: BladedRonin][Edited]
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Im honestly at a loss on whats next. Got a new flat faced trigger in. Got it reassembled. Everything function tested fine. Thats easy. Got a new strut. Finally got it in and while it will fire/reset without the locking block, WITH the locking block installed the trigger wont reset. Disassemble, trigger resets forward. Install locking block (or sear block, whatever big hunk of metal is in front of the trigger) it wont reset. Put the old strut back in. Does the same thing. Thinking it was the trigger reset bar I ordered new springs. Nope. Any thoughts? Trigger will pull, both single and double, but I have to push it forward to reset it. |
I don’t like making plans for the day. Because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around in the courtroom.
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The big block of metal that the takedown lever goes through is called the locking insert. I would bet that the hammer strut is not installed correctly. It can be a little tricky. Watch this video. He explains the installation very well. FF to about the 4:00 mark.  Sig Armorer superStrut install video for p series Sig Sauer pistols |
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Originally Posted By NonTypical361: The big block of metal that the takedown lever goes through is called the locking insert. I would bet that the hammer strut is not installed correctly. It can be a little tricky. Watch this video. He explains the installation very well. FF to about the 4:00 mark.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x66FXOs8vaQWell, have done that several times, and the result is the same each time. |
I don’t like making plans for the day. Because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around in the courtroom.
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Originally Posted By NonTypical361: Is it an adjustable trigger? Maybe back off on the adjustment a 1/4 turn? First thing I tried. Didnt make any difference |
I don’t like making plans for the day. Because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around in the courtroom.
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Attached File Attached File |
I don’t like making plans for the day. Because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around in the courtroom.
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Sorry, been busy. Here’s some more Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
I don’t like making plans for the day. Because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around in the courtroom.
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I went through the armorers course in NH last fall. I mention this because post course I rebuilt about a dozen MK25’s with all new springs, Sig Short reach/ reset triggers, and trigger bars. One brand new made in USA trigger bar was the result of a failed function test. Exactly why and what the function test failure was I am not sure, but I think it had something to do with either DA or SA reset. If that doesn’t fix it: some dumb questions: Gray guns adjustable flat trigger? DA/SA model? Short reset trigger kit? It looks like standard but want to ask. Who made the trigger bar? Can you describe the function test you are going in detail? You are doing the function test fully assembled with slide on? Can you post a picture of your installed locking block from the left side (slide release/ decock side) of the gun? It the trigger pin is rotated 180 degrees off the locking block may go in, but the block would be misaligned potentially impacting reset. |
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Originally Posted By Romano316: I went through the armorers course in NH last fall. I mention this because post course I rebuilt about a dozen MK25’s with all new springs, Sig Short reach/ reset triggers, and trigger bars. One brand new made in USA trigger bar was the result of a failed function test. Exactly why and what the function test failure was I am not sure, but I think it had something to do with either DA or SA reset. One easy way to make sure you install the strut correctly: without the mainspring, push up on the strut, which way does the hammer go? It should go back towards cocked. If it goes forward like firing, the strut is too far back on the trigger, and needs to come forward closer to the sear. If that doesn’t fix it: some dumb questions: Gray guns adjustable flat trigger? DA/SA model? Short reset trigger kit? It looks like standard but want to ask. Who made the trigger bar? Can you describe the function test you are going in detail? You are doing the function test fully assembled with slide on? Can you post a picture of your installed locking block from the left side (slide release/ decock side) of the gun? It the trigger pin is rotated 180 degrees off the locking block may go in, but the block would be misaligned potentially impacting reset. Gray guns trigger OEM Legion SRT and parts Function test, with slide on, trigger pulls but doesnt reset, have to push the trigger forward to reset. With locking block not installed trigger resets as it should. Once installed it does not. Ill pp when i get home |
I don’t like making plans for the day. Because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around in the courtroom.
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Attached File Attached File Attached File @Romano316 |
I don’t like making plans for the day. Because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around in the courtroom.
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Originally Posted By NonTypical361: The top of the strut is too far forward on the trigger pivot pin. Like I said earlier, it can be tricky. But I can guarantee that is your issue. This. What it should look like:  What yours looks like: Attached File |
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Here’s a better pic with the trigger bar removed. Notice how the leading edge of the strut is inline with the front of the hammer pivot pin.  " target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/CuQlpM7.jpeg " target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/jLaqKaA.jpeg
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Originally Posted By NonTypical361: Here’s a better pic with the trigger bar removed. Notice how the leading edge of the strut is inline with the front of the hammer pivot pin. https://i.imgur.com/CuQlpM7.jpeg" target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/CuQlpM7.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/jLaqKaA.jpeg" target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/jLaqKaA.jpeg So when i reinstall I need to pull it more towards the tail? |
I don’t like making plans for the day. Because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around in the courtroom.
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K *phew Ok, will work on it and report after work tonight This has been endlessly frustrating, esp for what was supposedly a very easy install |
I don’t like making plans for the day. Because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around in the courtroom.
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@Romano316 No disrespect, but I think that you have it backwards. Upwards motion of the strut is intended to force the hammer towards the firing pin, not into the cocked position. Please watch the video. @3:45 he clearly states that the strut must be closer to the rear or tail of the weapon, just like the 2 pics that I posted. They both function 100%. Sig Armorer superStrut install video for p series Sig Sauer pistols |
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Originally Posted By Romano316: With hammer installed, seat the strut with no mainspring or support block. When you apply upward pressure on the strut, the hammer could cock. If the hammer moves the other way, the strut is too far back, and needs to be positioned a little closer to the frame. ETA locking block looks good. Ok, Ill be the first to admit I am not a certified Sig armorer (am a cert glock armorer) but what is the support block and mainspring? |
I don’t like making plans for the day. Because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around in the courtroom.
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Originally Posted By NonTypical361: @Romano316 No disrespect, but I think that you have it backwards. Upwards motion of the strut is intended to force the hammer towards the firing pin, not into the cocked position. Please watch the video. @3:45 he clearly states that the strut must be closer to the rear or tail of the weapon, just like the 2 pics that I posted. They both function 100%. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x66FXOs8vaQJust popped my grip panels off to validate, this is correct. No offense taken, I was wrong. I edited out the bad info in case someone else looks at this. |
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@BladedRonin Sorry for the bad info I should have taken one apart to validate. ETA: Maybe I need to get my money back  I am curious now, because while what we are doing here is ok to do with the frame assembled, it is out of order on how we were taught to put the frames together. Mainspring assembly would normally be step 3, after hammer return spring/ pin and hammer/ hammer pin. |
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Attached File How the hammer strut engages the trigger. Attached File This shows the hammer strut, mainspring, and mainspring housing (plastic piece). I think this is what was referred to as the support block earlier. You should only need to disengage the MS housing to re-do this assuming it is your problem. With a little trial and error on mine, with the gun fully assembled with grip panels: Strut correctly positioned, you should see the mainspring compress as the hammer is cocked, and release when the hammer is lowered with the decock. Strut too far forward on hammer- mainspring will not compress or relax when hammer moves and trigger will be weak. |
| I have taken the strut off, put it back on, do it again and again and keep getting the exact same result. I put it in, go to the top can push and move the hammer forward. Pull back and it moves back. Reset and trigger still dead after pulling |
I don’t like making plans for the day. Because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around in the courtroom.
| Are you installing it with the hammer decocked? The earlier pic that you posted definitely looked like it was incorrect, but it wasn’t a great pic since it was on an angle. It should line up like the pics that I posted. When the hammer is cocked, you can push it forward with your finger without using the decocker? Please take another pic without the trigger bar. Thanks. |
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Originally Posted By 0100010: This. What it should look like: https://i.imgur.com/8W2YBuU.jpeg What yours looks like: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/135833/IMG_2961_jpeg-3722807.JPG What I notice when you compare the pictures, the spring leg orientation doesn’t match. The long spring leg is vertical in the first picture, but that leg is horizontal in the second picture. |
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Originally Posted By rightwing87: What I notice when you compare the pictures, the spring leg orientation doesn’t match. The long spring leg is vertical in the first picture, but that leg is horizontal in the second picture. The first pic is a P229. His photo in the second pic is a P226. They use different trigger springs and trigger bar. But everything else is basically the same, including the complete hammer strut assembly and hammer. |
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Originally Posted By NonTypical361: The first pic is a P229. His photo in the second pic is a P226. They use different trigger springs and trigger bar. But everything else is basically the same, including the complete hammer strut assembly and hammer. I want to stay on topic, but if you look up P226/P229 trigger bars and trigger springs they are interchangeable between both models. |
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Originally Posted By rightwing87: I want to stay on topic, but if you look up P226/P229 trigger bars and trigger springs they are interchangeable between both models. Yes, you’re correct. They do share the trigger bar and spring, And you’re also correct that his spring does look different. |
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Originally Posted By NonTypical361: Yes, you’re correct. They do share the trigger bar and spring, And you’re also correct that his spring does look different. It is a different spring, but allegedly it works. Replaced it with the original spring and have taken the strut out at least a dozen times, each time I get the same result. The thing that is driving me mad is, without that breach block / sear block whatever it is called, it functions. Hammer drops and I get a return on the trigger. With it in place it doesnt function properly. Did function properly before the new strut install. |
I don’t like making plans for the day. Because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around in the courtroom.
| A few clear pics would really help. Please take one showing the top of the strut as is goes under the trigger bar, like the pics that I posted. Also take a pic with the locking insert removed showing the end of the trigger bar where it attaches to the trigger. Is it possible that you tweaked the trigger bar causing it to now come into contact with the locking insert when you installed the new trigger? |
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So interesting turn today. Took it to the gunshop and let my gunsmith look at it. He pulls the trigger, everything works except for reset, says to me ‘i bet you put an SAO trigger in a DASA. You turned it into a SAO’. Well crap. Gonna put the curved trigger back in tomorrow see if it works after that. Looking at the GG website says its a DASA trigger not meant for SAO, but reading the comments other people have had this exact same issue. |
I don’t like making plans for the day. Because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around in the courtroom.
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Well, putting the old trigger back in fixed it. That seems to have been the issue, the new trigger was turning it into an SAO with that new strut. IDK, but it works again. So everyone here knows, the GrayGuns flat trigger for the 22x series turns the DASA into an SAO. If thats what you want, go for it. Since I am intending to turn this into my USPCA carry comp gun, cant have that. Now, my 229 on the other hand….. |
I don’t like making plans for the day. Because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around in the courtroom.
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Attached File From the GG website. May be applicable to your situation? Also, I have their DA/ SA trigger in one of my MK25’s and it works DA/ SA. I do not know the minute differences enough to determine what is/ is not comparable between different 226’s. |
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Sooo, after playing with it and shooting it, it returned to not resetting with the old trigger installed. Bound and determined to understand what was going on, I put the old strut back in. No diff. Put a heavier hammer spring in. No diff. Crap. Got to looking at the trigger bar in motion. On the DA reset it had some kind of friction causing it to just not fully reset. So I took the sear and spring out, lubed it good, but the flat trigger back in. BAM. It works now without issue DASA. Had something to do with my putting the trigger bar in and the metal needing a good lube job! Alright, in business now. Time to take back to the range and see how it handles AND if the combo of red hammer spring and purple sear spring with have a neg impact. |
I don’t like making plans for the day. Because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around in the courtroom.
| Lubrication is good, but lack of it on the trigger bar or sear shouldn’t be causing an issue like you are having. Just premature wear. You should be able to assemble it dry without having a malfunction. It sounds like there is something else going on. |
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Originally Posted By NonTypical361: Lubrication is good, but lack of it on the trigger bar or sear shouldn’t be causing an issue like you are having. Just premature wear. You should be able to assemble it dry without having a malfunction. It sounds like there is something else going on. I dunno. All I know is, after taking out the sear / spring trigger etc it all seems to function fine now. Gonna take it out Mon and see how it works |
I don’t like making plans for the day. Because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around in the courtroom.
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Originally Posted By BladedRonin: Well, its officially fixed. Took it shooting put maybe 50 rounds thru it, no hickups dasa. So I guess it’s solved? Glad it is working well! Earlier I thought trigger bar was rubbing or bound on locking block, but TBH, I was just guessing. I also had my share or wrong ideas too
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Originally Posted By Romano316: Glad it is working well! Earlier I thought trigger bar was rubbing or bound on locking block, but TBH, I was just guessing. I also had my share or wrong ideas too I think you were right on your guess. Makes me want to remove the sear and trigger bar wand polish the hell out of them. But that will come when I have to apply grease again. |
I don’t like making plans for the day. Because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around in the courtroom.