Posted: 2/2/2020 6:07:09 PM EDT
| Can the safety be removed? |
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Safety is a bit sensitive to any upward pressure and, will partially engage. Makes the trigger suddenly hard to pull.
At first I thought there was something wrong with the gun. Changed my grip and now it doesn't do it any more but, I would like to get rid of it if I can to avoid this situation. |
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Originally Posted By beemerman:
Safety is a bit sensitive to any upward pressure and, will partially engage. Makes the trigger suddenly hard to pull. At first I thought there was something wrong with the gun. Changed my grip and now it doesn't do it any more but, I would like to get rid of it if I can to avoid this situation. Not tryin' to preach to you, but I really would like to know what you're trying to accomplish. @beemerman |
One well at a time, Drill Baby Drill!
If you need more than 8 rounds in a 1911 to solve your problem, you need friends with rifles.
I don't need your PERMISSION in order to voice my OPINION
If you need more than 8 rounds in a 1911 to solve your problem, you need friends with rifles.
I don't need your PERMISSION in order to voice my OPINION
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Well it comes from the factory with or, without manual safety. Version without the frame safety, it has a trigger and striker block safety.
Version with manual frame safety has trigger and, striker block safety. My point is that when I am shooting the gun the manual safety will partially engage and, cause the gun to malfunction. So I asked if anyone has or,can it be removed without any issues. So..... |
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Originally Posted By beemerman:
Well it comes from the factory with or, without manual safety. Version without the frame safety, it has a trigger and striker block safety. Version with manual frame safety has trigger and, striker block safety. My point is that when I am shooting the gun the manual safety will partially engage and, cause the gun to malfunction. So I asked if anyone has or,can it be removed without any issues. So..... |
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Originally Posted By 44-40pro: Well considering that the safety SHOULD BE ON until you are ready to actually shoot something, I'm still not seeing the issue. I shoot a variety of guns for SD/HD. Some have safeties and some don't. For those that do I ALWAYS have the safety on until I draw and take aim at a target. My Sig P250 for example has no safety at all. It is essentially a 17 shot revolver DA only gun. Safety is no booger hook on the trigger until ready. My G2 has a safety, and it is always deployed until I'm ready to shoot. Not tryin' to preach to you, but I really would like to know what you're trying to accomplish. @beemerman He's trying to accomplish a safety removal, as he said. If you don't have anything to input towards the question there is no reason to comment. You also contradicted yourself, "Safety is no booger hook on the trigger" but then mention how "the safety SHOULD BE ON". so which is it? Originally Posted By beemerman: Can the safety be removed? I was having a similar issue as you. Shot fine to begin with but it got 'mushy' after a while and would kick on. The short answer is yes, you can. However, it can be a pain in the butt and it will leave a gap from where the safety was (same as with Smith & Wesson M&P's)  
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"You have power over your mind - not outside events. Realize this, and you will find strength." ~Marcus Aurelius
IG@ CheeksTac
IG@ CheeksTac
Thanks for the reply CT. I would not mind the gap as it is just for plinking, training, etc. not really for self defense.I don't suppose you would be willing to give some instructions on the process? Any pitfalls to avoid while doing it that you came across? |
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Originally Posted By beemerman: Thanks for the reply CT. I would not mind the gap as it is just for plinking, training, etc. not really for self defense.I don't suppose you would be willing to give some instructions on the process? Any pitfalls to avoid while doing it that you came across? Always happy to help, after all its what the forums are for! As for instruction, it was pretty straight forward. First step is of course you need to gut the frame of the handgun. I was doing this at a range so I just used a small Allen key and a small hammer. Once you have the "striker housing" out, be mindful of the pins. #14 and #12 in the attached diagram had no resistance to them and want to slide free. #19 and #20 is of course the saftey itself and #22 is the spring that gives the safety its 'clicks' I put the safety in the 'safe' position and just kept pulling on #20, using a suppressor tool I have as a fork to help. The press fit is very tight, as its the only thing keeping the safety from falling off your gun.  Honestly it really seems like it was just an after thought and I have zero regrets from taking it off, plus the safety doesn't kick on if I put the slightest pressure on it.  |
"You have power over your mind - not outside events. Realize this, and you will find strength." ~Marcus Aurelius
IG@ CheeksTac
IG@ CheeksTac
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Sugru This stuff works really well at filling in voids on polymer frames. I sticks, but can be removed when you want to. |
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Originally Posted By 44-40pro: Well considering that the safety SHOULD BE ON until you are ready to actually shoot something, I'm still not seeing the issue. I shoot a variety of guns for SD/HD. Some have safeties and some don't. For those that do I ALWAYS have the safety on until I draw and take aim at a target. My Sig P250 for example has no safety at all. It is essentially a 17 shot revolver DA only gun. Safety is no booger hook on the trigger until ready. My G2 has a safety, and it is always deployed until I'm ready to shoot. Not tryin' to preach to you, but I really would like to know what you're trying to accomplish. @beemerman Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By theGOLDENchild: I followed the above instructions and removed the safety. Then I made these plugs on my 3d printer, using a design I found on thingiverse. I thought they came out really well. https://i.imgur.com/9WVdwkz.jpg https://i.imgur.com/A54Rk0J.jpg @theGOLDENchild Nice! If I threw a few bucks your way would you be willing to make me some for mine? How hard was it to remove the safety? I read though the previous persons steps, but he doesn't explain how to tear down some of the parts. Just wondering if it is a task I want to take on. I am going to see if there is a youtube video of someone showing how to take it down/apart. |
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Yeah, I can make some for ya. Send me a message and we’ll has out details. I thought it was fairly straight forward. I think it took all of 10 minutes and most of that was trying to wrap my head around the previous instructions. Now that I’ve done it once, it’s a couple minute job. |
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Today I successfully attempted to remove my safety levers from my TX22 comp using the instructions in that post above. At first it didn't seem like those instructions were correct, however, they do work. You gently have to pull and in a way pry the right safety lever (part#20 from diagram) away. What worked for me was I took some fine needle nose pliers that I covered in some electrical tape so nothing would get marred and then just gently but firmly pried and pulled the lever off by gently wiggling it as I pulled on it while it was in the safe (up) position. Those pins he mentions to be careful not to fall out where in my striker block pretty good but I made sure to keep my fingers over them just in case. |
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Thanks to @CheeksTac for posting instructions on this. @theGOLDENchild Do your frame plugs just push into place in the frame and fit snuggly? Or do they require some type of adhesive? |
'The horse is made ready for battle, but victory rests with the LORD' - Proverbs 21:31
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They fit in snug, no adhesive required. The way they were designed, once everything is reassembled, they can't fall out. Originally Posted By Nate19: Thanks to @CheeksTac for posting instructions on this. @theGOLDENchild Do your frame plugs just push into place in the frame and fit snuggly? Or do they require some type of adhesive? |
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Originally Posted By theGOLDENchild: I followed the above instructions and removed the safety. Then I made these plugs on my 3d printer, using a design I found on thingiverse. I thought they came out really well. https://i.imgur.com/9WVdwkz.jpg https://i.imgur.com/A54Rk0J.jpg For those who are wondering, the frame/parts on the “Gen 1” and “Gen 2” are identical. I pulled @theGOLDENchild’s frame plugs out of my “old” TX22 and put them in my new T.O.R.O. |
'The horse is made ready for battle, but victory rests with the LORD' - Proverbs 21:31
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I lost the right side lever in a tragic boating accident and would like to have my safeties back. Will gladly pay for the shipping container if you can still find safety levers. Or plugs might not be terrible. @beemerman @bmwmc @kuhndog599 @CheeksTac @Donith @Mav3rick @theGOLDENchild @mk4dubbin @Nate19 |
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Originally Posted By YourAlterEgo: I lost the right side lever in a tragic boating accident and would like to have my safeties back. Will gladly pay for the shipping container if you can still find safety levers. Or plugs might not be terrible. @beemerman @bmwmc @kuhndog599 @CheeksTac @Donith @Mav3rick @theGOLDENchild @mk4dubbin @Nate19 I'll look but to honest l don't remember if I kept them. If they turn up I'll shoot you a pm. |