Official .260 tOBR Thread-Pics/Range/Loads/Updated Thread Index (Page 56 of 188)
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Today's update may have to hold you guys for a couple of days. I'm tired of waiting for HH6 to finally pick a color for the bathroom and bought some "Revere Pewter." So, I'll start taping and prepping tomorrow for painting the next day. She's still in Florida helping with the nephew so I'll have free time to knock this out. The update for today deals with the Whidden Click-Adjustable Full-Size Reloading Die. This Whidden die has serrations in the threads. In conjunction with the three ball detents, the die is adjustable to 0.001 with each "click." The package also includes a Whidden bump gauge. Well, let's see if the die works as easily as claimed. 
The die is adjusted in the press with the detents facing outwards. You adjust until you get the desired shoulder bump and then lock down the split ring.  Here'w what we'll be using today: three pieces of once-fired brass from Peterson and Nosler, the Whidden bump gauge, a .287 bushing and some imperial wax to lube the case in the resizing process. I also have the expander ball pack, but I need to play a bit more with the components. Today's goal was to get the shoulder bump correct. 
There's primer flow so I need to decap the rounds. I threw in the Lee Decapping die and made quick work of the primers. 
I measured the three Peterson cases and they measured 1.6125, 1.6145 and 1.6125. 
I measured the three Nosler cases and they came in at 1.6125, 1.6125 and 1.6080. 
Next, I placed the cases into the stripped bolt and rode them into the chamber. The 1.6145 and 1.6125 were too long and the bolt would not close. The bolt did close on the 1.6080 Nosler case. 
Next, I measured a virgin Lapua case that came in at 1.6060 and validated it chambered. 
So, I have a factory case at 1.6060, a fired case at 1.6080 that chambers and a fired case at 1.6125 that would not chamber. I want to bump the shoulder 0.003 so I'll see if I can get the die to 1.6095. I adjusted the die per the instructions and I dropped in the 0.287 bushing. I thought that would be a bit aggressive (thinking 0.289 would be better), but this is throw away brass so I'll try the 0.287 and see where the neck settles. My first attempt was too aggressive and I came in at 1.6035. I adjusted up and tried again, but I went too far in the other direction. Another adjustment and I was where I wanted to be at 1.6195. I checked the case in the chamber and it closed. 
I measured the inside of the Lapua virgin case and it came in at 0.2585; too aggressive and should be opened a bit. The resized case came in at 0.2600, which is about two-thousandths less than where I'd like to be. That tells me I would have been better with the 0.289 bushing and maybe a change to the expander ball. I didn't check the concentricity of the case necks, but maybe I'll run them tomorrow and see how close they are to the results from the Lee Collet Die. 
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Originally Posted By DuneShoot:
Good info on that clicker die. Once you get the non-click die set to desired bump, why would you need to change it? I need a decapping die. 
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Hornady 130 ELDM's onsale at Cabelas for $27.99 and free shipping.
https://www.cabelas.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=2225615&categoryId=0&parentCategoryId=0&subCategoryId=0&indexId=0&itemGUID=24f7cb72ac10a0577d37f6bad009a143 |
Today's update is sandwiched in-between waiting for the Brown Truck to deliver the .224 stuff and getting the bathroom ready for some new paint. The wife selected a color that as soon as it went on she didn't like. I've been waiting 2 years for her to decide on the new color and I'm tired of waiting! She wanted a shade of grey but could never make up her mind so I did it for her.  Revere Pewter will be the new color. We had a leak and I cut some holes in the wall trying to locate the leak. We had planned on having the bathroom done over, but unemployment and the IRS depleted those funds, so it's fix the wall and slap on some new paint for now.
I squared off the holes and then cut replacement wallboard. Installed 1x3 furring strips behind the existing wallboard to hold the new panels, then screwed the panels to the furring. Then I applied the tape and put a very light first coat of mud. I'll let it dry and apply two additional coats, then finish sand the patch and prime it so when I finish coat the walls, there won't be a difference in the shine due to the mud. I also sanded the previous paint to help the finish coats go on easier and look better. Here's the first light coat of drywall compound: 
I did receive a set of Forster Micrometer Dies and will add those to the collection of 260 dies or sell them off if the Whiddens prove to be the best / easiest. 
Here's a couple videos for the day. The first is a good video on sizing brass and the second is a venture into the depth the F Class and Benchrest folks go for perfection by discussing whether the reloading die your using works with your rifle's chamber. While they do discuss bolt guns, this does translate to reloading for the gassers. Sizing Brass:  Failed To Load Title Does your die work with your chamber?  Failed To Load Title |
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I picked up 2 boxes of 130 ELDM's yesterday not knowing they were onsale. Ordered 10 more today.
My decap die, comparator, couple neck bushings, and other goodies shipped from Brownells today. Hope it shows up by Friday. Dad will be here next week. Hoping he will want to try the 260. He's more into handguns that precision rifles. D3-in your drywall pic I can see yota's face 
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Originally Posted By DuneShoot:
Also scored a bullseye target camera! Originally Posted By DuneShoot:
Also scored a bullseye target camera! Originally Posted By DuneShoot:
I picked up 2 boxes of 130 ELDM's yesterday not knowing they were onsale. Ordered 10 more today. My decap die, comparator, couple neck bushings, and other goodies shipped from Brownells today. Hope it shows up by Friday. Dad will be here next week. Hoping he will want to try the 260. He's more into handguns that precision rifles. D3-in your drywall pic I can see yota's face Originally Posted By DuneShoot:
Also scored a bullseye target camera! |
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| Wondering what you guys are using for bore guides?.. I know it's a bit more specialized for the bolt gun stuff, but was checking out a guy who custom makes them to match the bore, and the cleaning rod so the fit is rather tight. Company is Neil Jones. He also makes cleaning rods that are non-coated as he told me he specifically didn't like that the coating can get damaged, as well as pick up debris which can scratch the barrels. Everything I've ever read has been of the opposite opinion. Perhaps I need to get out more?.. |
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Originally Posted By nuclearmonkey:
Wondering what you guys are using for bore guides?.. I know it's a bit more specialized for the bolt gun stuff, but was checking out a guy who custom makes them to match the bore, and the cleaning rod so the fit is rather tight. Company is Neil Jones. He also makes cleaning rods that are non-coated as he told me he specifically didn't like that the coating can get damaged, as well as pick up debris which can scratch the barrels. Everything I've ever read has been of the opposite opinion. Perhaps I need to get out more?.. I use a Lucas Bore Guide along with Dewey rods. Look at the Index for a post I made about cleaning to learn a bit more. I have Lucas guides for my 5.56s, 7.62s, which fit my .260 and 6.5CM. They fit well, have a cut out for fluids and have performed well for me. I believe I originally found them from a review on Accurate Shooter. I don't even know if Mike has a web site, but you can reach him at: Mike Lucas 225 Browns River Road Lexington, SC 29072 email: [email protected] I use Dewey coated rods as I have a thing about sending a piece of steel or brass down my bore, even when using the bore guide. I understand some think the coated rod could pick up debris and then harm the bore, but we all tend to take good care of our rifles and it's not like we're using steel wool that would get picked up by the coated rod. I also wipe the rod each time it goes down the bore. A downside of the Dewey rods is their proprietary threads so you need an adapter to use regular threaded brushes, etc. |
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Originally Posted By DuneShoot:
I picked up 2 boxes of 130 ELDM's yesterday not knowing they were onsale. Ordered 10 more today. My decap die, comparator, couple neck bushings, and other goodies shipped from Brownells today. Hope it shows up by Friday. Dad will be here next week. Hoping he will want to try the 260. He's more into handguns that precision rifles. D3-in your drywall pic I can see yota's face Instant feedback is fun (moreso when you get almost all hits) |
Carry it, shoot it. (repeat forever)
My life is my own.
My life is my own.
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Originally Posted By DuneShoot:
Plenty of economy spur'n going on here. |
Carry it, shoot it. (repeat forever)
My life is my own.
My life is my own.
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Originally Posted By Freakinout: Oooo I've been wondering about those. I've got a 1080 yard alley/range, and it'd be nice to see where my rounds are hitting I'm thinking a large card board target behind my torso sized target. |
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
No Brown Truck delivery today even though it was due out. UPS never fails to disappoint me, probably weather in France.
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Carry it, shoot it. (repeat forever)
My life is my own.
My life is my own.
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Originally Posted By Freakinout: Oooo I’ve been wondering about those. I’ve got a 1080 yard alley/range, and it’d be nice to see where my rounds are hitting |
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Originally Posted By Freakinout: Box probably didn’t have the minimum number of dents, so it had to go back through a distribution/dent center |
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Originally Posted By DuneShoot:
This is why I got it, for the 1000 yard shots. I'm thinking a large card board target behind my torso sized target. Originally Posted By DuneShoot:
Originally Posted By Freakinout: Oooo I've been wondering about those. I've got a 1080 yard alley/range, and it'd be nice to see where my rounds are hitting I'm thinking a large card board target behind my torso sized target. |
Carry it, shoot it. (repeat forever)
My life is my own.
My life is my own.
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Originally Posted By Freakinout: My buddy and I figured out that we could just use 6’ or 8’ 2x4s when building the stand, no need to saw (only had handsaws for some reason) unnecessarily. 6’x6’ target and we didn’t have to change butcher paper nearly as often. That stand also doesn’t get moved |
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Originally Posted By Defender3: No lie, USPS has also been killing me lately with scratch and dent. |
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
Shoot steel. Instant feedback and you can see the shots on target. Originally Posted By Defender3:
Originally Posted By Freakinout: My buddy and I figured out that we could just use 6’ or 8’ 2x4s when building the stand, no need to saw (only had handsaws for some reason) unnecessarily. 6’x6’ target and we didn’t have to change butcher paper nearly as often. That stand also doesn’t get moved |
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My life is my own.
My life is my own.
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Originally Posted By Freakinout: I’ve been converting everything to steel the past few years. Until about 2 years ago I only had .223/5.56, and my 11.5” setup maxes out at 600 meters or so, which I’ve got AR500 plates for. Need to get a biggun for the 1k, or two horizontal plates |
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Originally Posted By Freakinout: So does it let you connect at 1k? How does it fill in for a spotter? |
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Originally Posted By Defender3: Up your game, chick on the line at Quantico was shooting 5.56 at 1,000 with what looked like a Leupold 8x. She was shooting steel and killing it. I don’t doubt it. I shoot my 11.5”(12” Larue now) suppressed almost all the time, and I run a TA33 ACOG (3x), at 600 meters the bullet drop gets way below the drop reticle, that and it’s windy all the months that aren’t scorching hot.I need to get a decent power scope for my 16” PredatAR barrel, as I’d like to see what she can do past 100 meters. 600 meters with my Rem 700 isn’t even a challenge |
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My life is my own.
My life is my own.
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Originally Posted By Defender3: The camera module is good to 300 yards. After 300 you use the second receiver module. It creates it's own wi-fi network you connect to using your iPad, phone, etc. |
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My life is my own.
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Originally Posted By Freakinout: I’m curious if I’d need more than one receiver module, as consumer products lack transmission power. |
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Originally Posted By Defender3: I suggest you look it up and read up a bit, it's rated to a mile/ Uses internal batteries you recharge and is supposedly good for up to 12hrs. |
Carry it, shoot it. (repeat forever)
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My life is my own.
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Originally Posted By Defender3: I went and shot the Valkyrie just to get out of the darn house. You guys need to step up! My loading set up is in the works. Just a couple more weeks... |
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Originally Posted By mettee:
I am jealous, how did it shoot? Did not get mine yet. You must be on a ML priority favorites list. My loading set up is in the works. Just a couple more weeks... Originally Posted By mettee:
Originally Posted By Defender3: I went and shot the Valkyrie just to get out of the darn house. You guys need to step up! My loading set up is in the works. Just a couple more weeks... |
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
Magpul stuff is on sale at Brownells. I picked up a Gen 3 PRS for $195 and code LDD worked giving me free shipping and another 10% off. YMMV. Got 2 orders from them this week. Got the .288 neck bushing. About to size some brass. How is that Whidden clicker sizer die? Is it really handy once you have your non-clicker set? |
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Originally Posted By DuneShoot:
Damn, this place is going to make me go broke! Been wanting a PRS for a grendel. Currently using an XLR stock. Cheek weld seems a tad high no matter how low I adjust it. Got 2 orders from them this week. Got the .288 neck bushing. About to size some brass. How is that Whidden clicker sizer die? Is it really handy once you have your non-clicker set? The die also has the Whidden expander ball and I have the expander ball kit with differing sizers, so I can manage the inside neck diameter by changing to a different expander (which I believe all Whidden FL dies allow). I'm going to play with that a bit as I want to reset my factory Lapua neck ID for less tension without resizing any of the case. I bought micrometer .260 dies from Forster, Whidden and Redding, simply to test and with the idea I could set up one for each load/bullet and not have to fuss with resetting everything (remember, I have about 10 differing projectiles). I have the Whidden set for the .260 gasser in the Forster press and I would suppose it will remain consistent. I want to setup the dies in the T-7 so I can easily move between bullets. I think the click adjustable is a great idea and it seems to be working. Too bad they didn't have then when I first bought the micrometer Whiddens. Their value depends on what you have now and what you may want to do with a die set. |
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| The clicker die would have been handy yesterday. I had a hell of a time getting the non-clicker set back up correctly with the new neck bushing. Also have issues getting a consistant length reading in my micrometer. I finally got it. Now using .003 as a shoulder bump. Will see how they shoot next week. Think I'll just go with the 41.5gr of H4350 and calling it good. |
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Originally Posted By DuneShoot:
The clicker die would have been handy yesterday. I had a hell of a time getting the non-clicker set back up correctly with the new neck bushing. Also have issues getting a consistant length reading in my micrometer. I finally got it. Now using .003 as a shoulder bump. Will see how they shoot next week. Think I'll just go with the 41.5gr of H4350 and calling it good. |
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I'm thinking this may make measuring bump easier than with a mic. Ever used one?
https://www.brownells.com/reloading/measuring-tools/case-gauges-headspace-tools/case-gage-depth-micrometer-sku749016634-88120-190663.aspx |
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Originally Posted By DuneShoot:
I'm thinking this may make measuring bump easier than with a mic. Ever used one? https://www.brownells.com/reloading/measuring-tools/case-gauges-headspace-tools/case-gage-depth-micrometer-sku749016634-88120-190663.aspx |
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