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Went to Harbor Freight today, and hefted the (nearly) 14 lb sds max rotary hammer that has many, many excellent reviews.
Okey dokey. I can lift it, and for relatively short periods I think I can manage it. Looking at video tutorials, though... I keep seeing, "make sure you turn off the hammer mode when you're dry- core drilling."" So, if it's just a freaking drill, why does one need a rotary hammer to run these things? Confused Kitties is confused. |
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I have to say, with the positive reviews on this thing, I am very tempted. With a coupon, I can walk away with that hammer for $100. (Plus bits, of course.) Tempted to get it, drill holes around the perimeter of a circle, and create my own knockout, since it appears this will also do fine for anchoring my sills, AND I can then use it to bust up tile (some of which *I* laid, and that stuff is not coming up easily ). 1-The big complaint is that it does not list a bit rating, and that's what everybody was wondering. 2-A rotary hammer for a day, here will be $60, PLUS another $35 for a bit larger than 1/2" BUT.... 3-I have not yet found a rental company who has a hammer that will drive a 5" core bit, NOR do they rent the 5" core bits. They have core drivers, which are big things too heavy for me to use sideways. There may be a rental company that has one. I am still looking. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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The Milwaukee that you mentioned above on the 29th is rated for a 5/8" solid bit. That should take care of most folks needs and for your your sill plate anchors. It wont turn a 5" core bit for your septic tank ( it would get hot and die ) but you can rent something for that particular hole. The majority of rotary hammers have a drill and hammer function and less frequently, a drill only function. The particular drill that you linked to doesn't appear to have the "hammer only" function. If that's not a concern of yours it doesn't matter. Core bits have less friction than solid bits and because of that a drill that is rated for a 1.5" solid bit ( my rotary hammer ) can be also rated for a 5", more or less, core bit. With a coupon, I can walk away with that hammer for $100. (Plus bits, of course.) Tempted to get it, drill holes around the perimeter of a circle, and create my own knockout, since it appears this will also do fine for anchoring my sills, AND I can then use it to bust up tile (some of which *I* laid, and that stuff is not coming up easily ). 1-The big complaint is that it does not list a bit rating, and that's what everybody was wondering. 2-A rotary hammer for a day, here will be $60, PLUS another $35 for a bit larger than 1/2" BUT.... 3-I have not yet found a rental company who has a hammer that will drive a 5" core bit, NOR do they rent the 5" core bits. They have core drivers, which are big things too heavy for me to use sideways. There may be a rental company that has one. I am still looking. Back to the Bosch... It will turn a 1-1/8" solid bit. Bosch full specs Note- "Multi-function selector – three modes of operation: drilling only, hammer drilling and chiseling". |
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Please forget what I said, I screwed up. The Milwaukee doesn't have the chiseling mode. No good for your tile removal or connecting small holes to make a larger one. Back to the Bosch... It will turn a 1-1/8" solid bit. Bosch full specs Note- "Multi-function selector – three modes of operation: drilling only, hammer drilling and chiseling". View Quote Right now, after looking, reading, watching, and thinking, AND because of Handydave's extremely generous offer to allow me to use his expensive bit (which I will, of course, replace if I screw it up) I think what makes the most sense is for me to buy that Harbor Freight SDS Max hammer for $130 and use the borrowed bit. I may yet change my mind, but for the cost of a rental, I'll purchase a tool that a lot of people have tried and like, that is only .4 lbs heavier than the Hilti model that is closest to it (if they could even be compared, which I realize they truly cannot) and I won't have a $600 tool just sitting there most of the time. This may be a stupid choice, but I'm not loving the purchase of the lighter, sds hammer because Handyman Guy has drilled into concrete for me in the past (on a utility room rehab) to install anchors for a new mudsill (old one was never done right and had thus rotted). He used a regular drill and a masonry bit. No issues. It seems like the sds-max hammer makes more sense overall. It's heavy, yes. Heavier than I could run for many hours straight, without a few months of hard-core weight training beforehand. But I think I can run it for short periods, which seems to be all that is required for most of the projects I'll do. Please argue with me. I'm not interested in throwing $130 down the toilet, but I'm less interested in paying $400 for a tool that a-won't do this job in the quickest, easiest way and b-isn't necessary for most other jobs I do. If my thinking is off, tell me. I can take it. ETA: I'm seeing a lot of conflicting information about these core bits, and how to use them. Any enlightenment based on real-world expeirience would be welcome. |
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I figured out that you meant the Bosch--or so I thought. Right now, after looking, reading, watching, and thinking, AND because of Handydave's extremely generous offer to allow me to use his expensive bit (which I will, of course, replace if I screw it up) I think what makes the most sense is for me to buy that Harbor Freight SDS Max hammer for $130 and use the borrowed bit. I may yet change my mind, but for the cost of a rental, I'll purchase a tool that a lot of people have tried and like, that is only .4 lbs heavier than the Hilti model that is closest to it (if they could even be compared, which I realize they truly cannot) and I won't have a $600 tool just sitting there most of the time. This may be a stupid choice, but I'm not loving the purchase of the lighter, sds hammer because Handyman Guy has drilled into concrete for me in the past (on a utility room rehab) to install anchors for a new mudsill (old one was never done right and had thus rotted). He used a regular drill and a masonry bit. No issues. It seems like the sds-max hammer makes more sense overall. It's heavy, yes. Heavier than I could run for many hours straight, without a few months of hard-core weight training beforehand. But I think I can run it for short periods, which seems to be all that is required for most of the projects I'll do. Please argue with me. I'm not interested in throwing $130 down the toilet, but I'm less interested in paying $400 for a tool that a-won't do this job and b-isn't necessary for most other jobs I do. If my thinking is off, tell me. I can take it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Please forget what I said, I screwed up. The Milwaukee doesn't have the chiseling mode. No good for your tile removal or connecting small holes to make a larger one. Back to the Bosch... It will turn a 1-1/8" solid bit. Bosch full specs Note- "Multi-function selector – three modes of operation: drilling only, hammer drilling and chiseling". Right now, after looking, reading, watching, and thinking, AND because of Handydave's extremely generous offer to allow me to use his expensive bit (which I will, of course, replace if I screw it up) I think what makes the most sense is for me to buy that Harbor Freight SDS Max hammer for $130 and use the borrowed bit. I may yet change my mind, but for the cost of a rental, I'll purchase a tool that a lot of people have tried and like, that is only .4 lbs heavier than the Hilti model that is closest to it (if they could even be compared, which I realize they truly cannot) and I won't have a $600 tool just sitting there most of the time. This may be a stupid choice, but I'm not loving the purchase of the lighter, sds hammer because Handyman Guy has drilled into concrete for me in the past (on a utility room rehab) to install anchors for a new mudsill (old one was never done right and had thus rotted). He used a regular drill and a masonry bit. No issues. It seems like the sds-max hammer makes more sense overall. It's heavy, yes. Heavier than I could run for many hours straight, without a few months of hard-core weight training beforehand. But I think I can run it for short periods, which seems to be all that is required for most of the projects I'll do. Please argue with me. I'm not interested in throwing $130 down the toilet, but I'm less interested in paying $400 for a tool that a-won't do this job and b-isn't necessary for most other jobs I do. If my thinking is off, tell me. I can take it. You're not the average home owner, you also work in the trades. I would go for the mid-sized rotary drill because it's more versatile but not over qualified At $130 you could purchase three or four of them for the cost of one high quality "commercial use' type of drill. Buy once cry once is sometimes overkill. The difference between solid bits and core bits is that solid bits pound and drill through concrete. Core bits are designed to grind through concrete so it's recommended to use the drill mode, no hammer. It's pretty cool, when core drilling, and realizing that the core bit cut through a piece of rebar. A solid bit wouldn't do that. |
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I have six or seven drills for making holes in block, brick or concrete. Everything from a cordless for installing tapcons, a corded drill for installing tapcons and moderate sized holes, a few drills in between, up to the 1.5" rotary big boy. Having the big boy on the truck is nice when needed but it's seldom needed. If it's a new project I'll just tell the mason etc here is where I want a hole or sleeve, make it happen. You're not the average home owner, you also work in the trades. I would go for the mid-sized rotary drill because it's more versatile but not over qualified At $130 you could purchase three or four of them for the cost of one high quality "commercial use' type of drill. Buy once cry once is sometimes overkill. The difference between solid bits and core bits is that solid bits pound and drill through concrete. Core bits are designed to grind through concrete so it's recommended to use the drill mode, no hammer. It's pretty cool, when core drilling, and realizing that the core bit cut through a piece of rebar. A solid bit wouldn't do that. View Quote Cuz this drill I'm looking at does not have the drill-only function. If I need drill-only, I need to go a different direction. |
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I knew what I meant but didn't provide enough detail...
There are different types of core bits. When core drilling concrete that may have rebar in it (thinking of your septic tank) no hammer function is best if you hit rebar. Diamond core bit. Start around two minutes. How to drill large holes into brick walls - TIMco How To Tuesday Carbide core bit- See product overview. With carbide core bits you can use drill only or drill with hammer function. I like to drill with the hammer function because it's faster. However, if the bit hits a piece of rebar it is much more likely to loose cutting teeth if also using hammer mode. Most people can hear the difference in the sound when the core bit hits a piece of rebar. The drill cup starts to sing with a metal on metal sound. At that point I switch the rotary hammer to drill only mode. Please keep in mind that it's only a concern if hitting rebar in concrete. CMU, brick, a slab with wire mesh, no concern at all. |
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I knew what I meant but didn't provide enough detail... There are different types of core bits. When core drilling concrete that may have rebar in it (thinking of your septic tank) no hammer function is best if you hit rebar. Diamond core bit. Start around two minutes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ca0va3x2GlI Carbide core bit- See product overview. With carbide core bits you can use drill only or drill with hammer function. I like to drill with the hammer function because it's faster. However, if the bit hits a piece of rebar it is much more likely to loose cutting teeth if also using hammer mode. Most people can hear the difference in the sound when the core bit hits a piece of rebar. The drill cup starts to sing with a metal on metal sound. At that point I switch the rotary hammer to drill only mode. Please keep in mind that it's only a concern if hitting rebar in concrete. CMU, brick, a slab with wire mesh, no concern at all. View Quote Since you are just drilling one hole, you could drill some small holes where you plan the big hole to feel for rebar, and adjust the hole if necessary to dodge the rebar. |
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Very good explanation. Since you are just drilling one hole, you could drill some small holes where you plan the big hole to feel for rebar, and adjust the hole if necessary to dodge the rebar. View Quote So if I'm going to buy this Harbor Freight tool as my first rotary hammer, and thinking I will drill sort of a "crosshair" across my 5" "scope reticle" per Handydave's suggestion, what bits should I buy to go with the tool? Would you drill 1/4" holes? 1/2"? ETA: Understanding that there is a pilot bit in the center of the core, I don't want to put a hole where that pilot bit should be able to bite. Also there is an instruction in the manual to clean out the grease cup once per month and repack it, plus to grease the shaft of the bit where it goes into the hammer. Any special type of grease? Any special stuff I need to know about maintaining this "violent" piece of equipment? (Not my word for it. I got that off of a youtube video, but it does seem to be sort of a violent tool. ) ETA: Come to think of it, my reciprocating saw is pretty damn violent. I might have to start looking at our tools differently from this point forward. |
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I just tore up tile at my house. I used one of these.
Attached File Link $129 I cut and ground an edge on a piece of scrap steel, 4-5 inches wide. Then welded it to the bit. Butter. |
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I just tore up tile at my house. I used one of these. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/155324/CP_BOYER_BK2-352107.JPG Link $129 I cut and ground an edge on a piece of scrap steel, 4-5 inches wide. Then welded it to the bit. Butter. View Quote There are times when what I DO NOT KNOW just gets a little overwhelming. I never even knew these existed. |
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Kitties is a romantic, caught in a time loop View Quote Time loop? Not by much. Kitties is olde. ETA: As evidence, I give you the fact that there was a really hunky young guy at the wine store, walking up and down the aisles. There was a time when I would have stopped in my tracks and watched. But I could not get past the man bun. I tried to think of him as masculine. He had the shoulders. He had the six pack (you could tell, even through his shirt.) But that enormous man bun.... I just couldn't stop staring at it. And not in a good way. Olde. |
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ETA: As evidence, I give you the fact that there was a really hunky young guy at the wine store, walking up and down the aisles. There was a time when I would have stopped in my tracks and watched. But I could not get past the man bun. I tried to think of him as masculine. He had the shoulders. He had the six pack (you could tell, even through his shirt.) But that enormous man bun.... I just couldn't stop staring at it. And not in a good way. Olde. View Quote ar-jedi |
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I just tore up tile at my house. I used one of these. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/155324/CP_BOYER_BK2-352107.JPG Link $129 I cut and ground an edge on a piece of scrap steel, 4-5 inches wide. Then welded it to the bit. Butter. View Quote ar-jedi |
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ETA: As evidence, I give you the fact that there was a really hunky young guy at the wine store, walking up and down the aisles. There was a time when I would have stopped in my tracks and watched. But I could not get past the man bun. I tried to think of him as masculine. He had the shoulders. He had the six pack (you could tell, even through his shirt.) But that enormous man bun.... I just couldn't stop staring at it. And not in a good way. Olde. ar-jedi |
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you may want to mention the 30CFM+ compressor that is required to feed one of those things... ar-jedi View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I just tore up tile at my house. I used one of these. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/155324/CP_BOYER_BK2-352107.JPG Link $129 I cut and ground an edge on a piece of scrap steel, 4-5 inches wide. Then welded it to the bit. Butter. ar-jedi I first tried with an air hammer and it was workable but slow. I didn't feel like doing 800 sq ft like that. The mini jack hammer was chipping the concrete with the stock bit. Once I fabed up a blade, the job flew. I went over it with a $20 4" pole scraper from harbor freight afterwards to get up the missed spots of thinset. Brag pics. Attached File Attached File |
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I have a 25 gallon, 5.5 hp Craftsman compressor. It worked well. I'm not sure of the CFM but I don't think it's that much. I first tried with an air hammer and it was workable but slow. I didn't feel like doing 800 sq ft like that. The mini jack hammer was chipping the concrete with the stock bit. Once I fabed up a blade, the job flew. I went over it with a $20 4" pole scraper from harbor freight afterwards to get up the missed spots of thinset. Brag pics. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/155324/IMG_20171020_135852353~2-352569.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/155324/IMG_20171020_135936782~2-352570.JPG View Quote Is that a Kerdi bench? |
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Back to the wall sheathing and housewrap discussion.
Information for the ZipSystem is hard to find.. I assume because it's a more recent product. I remember when Dupont released Tyvek. Folks in the trades thought it was a huge improvement over tar paper and it is, especially for preventing air infiltration. After about ten years on the market everyone was, OMG, it's deteriorating behind the siding! Then it was, no, it's deteriorating behind cedar siding. So if using cedar siding folks ( in this area ) switched to Typar, a Tyvek competitor. At some point self adhering house wrap was invented by Grace etc.. One of the selling points was that we didn't have to nail it in place which obviously created holes in the membrane. But we still had to put holes in it to hang the siding and trim. Now, there's the ZipSystem. My personal experience with Tyvek has been OK as far as I know. No one has called us 20 years after building their house to say they have to burn it to the ground because of mold. About seven years ago when folks lost their homes investors snatched them up. I did several inspections back then and if the house had vinyl siding I would unlock a few courses at the windows, sill plate transition etc to look for damage. Most of the Tyvek looked as new as the day it was installed. Some tore easily... My suspicion, it's only suspicion, is that some builders allowed the Tyvek to be exposed to the sun beyond the time allowed in Tyvek's installation specifications. There is a house not very far from me. They stood the walls up last winter, installed Tyvek and put a roof on it. They still haven't applied siding and I'll bet they don't wrap it with a fresh layer of Tyvek before they do Kitties, I don't have anything firm to offer regarding the ZipSystem. No personal experience and nothing that I've been able to gather from friends in the trades. I do like the glue resin. Here are some videos that I found that are interesting and amusing. Two competitors going to battle. For you and any lurkers.. History, start around one minute. ZIP System™ Sheathing On TV From Huber/ zipsystem Failed To Load Title Tyvek 1.0 Coated Sheathing System Flaws – ASTM E331 Water Infiltration Testing Tyvek 2.0 The Problem with Fasteners - ZIP System® Sheathing Vycor VYCOR® enV-S™ installation I just about fell out of my seat. Very clever |
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Back to the wall sheathing and housewrap discussion. Information for the ZipSystem is hard to find.. I assume because it's a more recent product. I remember when Dupont released Tyvek. Folks in the trades thought it was a huge improvement over tar paper and it is, especially for preventing air infiltration. After about ten years on the market everyone was, OMG, it's deteriorating behind the siding! Then it was, no, it's deteriorating behind cedar siding. So if using cedar siding folks ( in this area ) switched to Typar, a Tyvek competitor. At some point self adhering house wrap was invented by Grace etc.. One of the selling points was that we didn't have to nail it in place which obviously created holes in the membrane. But we still had to put holes in it to hang the siding and trim. Now, there's the ZipSystem. My personal experience with Tyvek has been OK as far as I know. No one has called us 20 years after building their house to say they have to burn it to the ground because of mold. About seven years ago when folks lost their homes investors snatched them up. I did several inspections back then and if the house had vinyl siding I would unlock a few courses at the windows, sill plate transition etc to look for damage. Most of the Tyvek looked as new as the day it was installed. Some tore easily... My suspicion, it's only suspicion, is that some builders allowed the Tyvek to be exposed to the sun beyond the time allowed in Tyvek's installation specifications. There is a house not very far from me. They stood the walls up last winter, installed Tyvek and put a roof on it. They still haven't applied siding and I'll bet they don't wrap it with a fresh layer of Tyvek before they do Kitties, I don't have anything firm to offer regarding the ZipSystem. No personal experience and nothing that I've been able to gather from friends in the trades. I do like the glue resin. Here are some videos that I found that are interesting and amusing. Two competitors going to battle. For you and any lurkers.. History, start around one minute. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=totHfHaNf1A From Huber/ zipsystem https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9N0stewvXpc Tyvek 1.0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ce7M0vNAeqc Tyvek 2.0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_SJRx7IaGs Vycor https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1DCKV19jyoo I just about fell out of my seat. Very clever https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PaUNQpULnTM View Quote Tar paper is looking better and better. ETA: I've got the Grace product taped around the new back door we installed September 2016. Still standing there all taped up, no facing, no exterior siding since then, cuz that's how I roll. Just the Grace tape over the joint between the new door and the wall sheathing. So far it's holding up. Hey, I'm doing my own personal product testing. |
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Any of y'all used the new gun/brush/roller applied flashings and waterproofing/airproofing membrane systems in lieu of a wrap?
They're awfully attractive for rough openings (to my way of thinking), if not for the flat panels of the house. |
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I have to say, with the positive reviews on this thing, I am very tempted. With a coupon, I can walk away with that hammer for $100. (Plus bits, of course.) Tempted to get it, drill holes around the perimeter of a circle, and create my own knockout, since it appears this will also do fine for anchoring my sills, AND I can then use it to bust up tile (some of which *I* laid, and that stuff is not coming up easily ). 1-The big complaint is that it does not list a bit rating, and that's what everybody was wondering. 2-A rotary hammer for a day, here will be $60, PLUS another $35 for a bit larger than 1/2" BUT.... 3-I have not yet found a rental company who has a hammer that will drive a 5" core bit, NOR do they rent the 5" core bits. They have core drivers, which are big things too heavy for me to use sideways. There may be a rental company that has one. I am still looking. View Quote I bought This hammer drill for recent foundation projects and have been very pleased. |
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Usually those core drills have a stand with a track that can be set up at whatever angle is desired, or affixed to something sturdy. I bought This hammer drill for recent foundation projects and have been very pleased. View Quote Would love to see what you have done with it! @jchewie1 All information is welcome in this thread. :0) |
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the most important thing about Tyvek is that you put it on with the lettering right side up. nothing pisses me off more than driving past a house under construction and "Tyvek" is upside-down. how damn hard is it to put it on correctly. this ain't rocket surgery folks! arrrrggggghhhhhh. ps put the bottom course on first, too. the lap joints should shed water, not collect it against the sheathing. ar-jedi http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/12557-1/DSCN5349.JPG View Quote If I can afford it, I'm seriously considering the liquid membrane. It makes sense to me, and penetrations don't seem to affect it as a water barrier. Still looking around, still mulling. |
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It makes sense to me, and penetrations don't seem to affect it as a water barrier. View Quote IIRC, no one has invented a siding material which the installation thereof doesn't result in zillions of perforations of the sheathing barrier/overlay. ar-jedi |
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what type of siding are you going to put on? IIRC, no one has invented a siding material which the installation thereof doesn't result in zillions of perforations of the sheathing barrier/overlay. ar-jedi View Quote I'm seeing some claims that the liquid membranes are almost self-healing and close around penetations (screws and nails). I am not yet convinced. ETA: Honestly, all of the house wraps I've seen have significant vulnerabilties both from penetrations and from deterioration over time (especially this last, if the application is done slowly, and if there's one thing I am, it's slow. ) Asphalt paper works. I've used it. I understand it. It doesn't turn into dust in ten years if I leave it exposed to air for a while before I sheath it. Tyvek is better, sometimes, because it's a better barrier as it comes off the roll. That changes very quickly if something happens and I lose my help, or weather keeps me from getting the siding in place. I'm looking for something better than all of the modern roll type sheathing methods. Liquid membrane (like Redguard or some other equivalent) is something I understand when it's applied to a shower pan for waterproofing. I just want something equally bombproof for an exterior application, which will also be BETTER at water management around penetrations, than is Tyvek or any other sheet/roll product. I am intrigued by the new exterior liquid membranes which act as a house wrap. In particular the ones which act as flashing around the (damn near impossible to truly waterproof) rough openings around big penetrations like windows, doors, vents, etc. ETA2: Honestly, one of the most attractive elements of a liquid membrane is that *I* can apply it. I don't need a second person to hold up the damn other end while I staple or stick the stuff onto the sheathing. I can roll it on. Kitties, looks at the liquid membrane and thinks, I used to paint for a living. I can do this all by myself! ETA: OH, you asked about siding. Sorry @ar-jedi. I have sheathing on the brain right now. On siding, I have no idea. I keep waiting to see how the budget on the framing package is going to fall. I just know that anything I put up will have to be fastened, and that's a lot of penetrations. Another reason the liquid membranes are looking better and better. But I'm getting mixed information about how well they deal with penetrations, so I have yet to find something that says, "oh yeah, that's what I want." |
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I will remember this if I end up going with the Tyvek. If I can afford it, I'm seriously considering the liquid membrane. It makes sense to me, and penetrations don't seem to affect it as a water barrier. Still looking around, still mulling. View Quote Which liquid membrane would you use? I will need to reside the house and want to beef up the insulation and insure it is tight as well so am following your exploration of products closely. Thanks |
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Kitties Which liquid membrane would you use? I will need to reside the house and want to beef up the insulation and insure it is tight as well so am following your exploration of products closely. Thanks View Quote I have looked at something called Blue Poly out of (I think) a Florida company (Might be texas though). I have looked at the more extensive system offered by Prosoco, which includes fast flashing piped out of a sausage gun and spread with a trowel, and then a flat panel membrane that rolls on to meet the flashing membrane. They also have something they call a "dam" that looks like it forms a caulk-like seal around windows in areas where they get shimmed. These two were sort of early entries into the membrane market, best I can tell, and there are several copycat products available now, and I have not had time to look at them at all. I'm no help yet, but still looking and will definitely put what I choose here and why I chose it. I haven't gotten a cost per square foot on these products yet, either. Prosoco is an old company, and still family held, which is always a trust-building component, but it's not gonna be cheap. Worst case I just can't do it. Most likely I will end up with the fast flash on the rough openings, and regular house wrap of some kind on the flat panels. |
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Thank you! Would love to see what you have done with it! @jchewie1 All information is welcome in this thread. :0) View Quote The power was off for the better part of two years and this area gets HARD frost down to four feet. The front and back foundation walls heaved in, horizontal crack running nearly the whole length of the building. Back wall was 3 inches out of plumb, front was a little over 2. It wasn't moving any more, but I wanted it fixed. I used the hammer drill to anchor blocks to the floor along the wall every four feet. Also used the hammer drill to anchor jack post plates to the floor every four feet, interspaced with the blocks. Built and installed a header to support the exterior walls, hoisted that in place, and used the jack posts to hold it up. Demoed the raised concrete porch, rented an electric jackhammer. Footing was too shallow and it heaved and I had water running toward the house. Rented a mini excavator to dig 6 feet down to the foundation wall footing. Found the exact route the water line took to get from the well to the place it stubbed up under the floor. Rerouted that madness to a direct line that doesn't run under the septic pipe. Raised the jack posts just enough to take the load off the wall. Installed vertical braces between each anchor blocks and the wall. Pushed out on the bracing with jackbolts through the joists to bring the wall back to plumb. Got it to within 1/2 inch at its worst, most is less than 1/4" out of plumb. Removed two basement windows and filled the holes with block. Removed two more basement windows, more block, and installed egress windows. Installed lower 4' of R10 ground contact foam insulation around exterior of wall. Installed filter fabric in trench. Installed new foundation drainage pipe. Backfilled 3 feet with washed pea stone. Three concrete trucks brought it out with water and just dumped it in the trench where needed. It was a tremendous time saver and well worth the hour of demurrage time they charged. Knocked a hole in each core at the top outside of the wall. Threaded a piece of #3 rebar into each core. Used hammer drill again with a long 1/2 inch bit to make holes at the corners. Stairstep cracks were visible on the exterior, not the interior. Installed several pieces of #3 rebar to tie the corners together. Grouted each core. Paid a local mason to bring a grout pump and a telehandler out to fill cores. I want to say we had 8 cubic yards, and probably lost a yard or so that drizzled down the side of the foundation. Spread mortar to finish filling core holes. Installed window wells for egress windows. Used hammer drill for anchors. Installed upper 4' of R10 ground contact foam insulation around exterior of wall. Backfilled with sand and rental skid steer, used plate compactor a few times on the way up. Installed Novik Stone (cheap faux stone vinyl siding) over the exposed foam above grade. Used hammer drill. Had sand fill and top soil brought in for additional fill around the house. Spread that with a rental skid steer. Planted grass seed. Took your advice regarding layout of flower beds (incorporated curves) from the landscaping thread. Replaced a portion of the sheathing that was rotted away from the heaved concrete porch. Few pictures because I was trying to get stuff done, and have my wife and four kids living in the house. Things to do still: Replace the lowest course of aluminum siding and install flashing or trim over the top of the Novik Stone. Figure out what I want for a front entry porch and back deck and build it. The kids just jump out the sliding glass door in back and we have a sturdy but temporary front entry porch. That's a project for next year when it warms up again. Bring in fill or push fill from other areas on the property to raise my flat clay yard. Much of it has an inch or two of water right now since the late fall Lake Superior rain turned on a month ago. That freezes eventually, but between the time it thaws in late April or May and near July the yard is squishy. My advice regarding housewrap: I like the heavy weight spun products over the woven products. Typar or similar over Tyvek or similar. I have no real empirical evidence to back this, but if you aren't siding right away they hold up fine for several months. It's pretty easy install solo, just lean the roll against the side and work four feet at a time. EDIT, forgot about removing the two unused block pilasters. IDK if they were still deciding on a floor plan when the foundation was built or if the mason didn't have a set of carpentry prints or what, but they both stuck out at an odd place on the walls and the central header runs the other way. |
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Most of the spots I used it are covered up. I have an 8 foot block basement. None of the cores were filled, and the mortar is very poor - not enough cement. House was built 26 years ago now, I am the fifth or sixth owner, 7th or 8th if you count Fanny Mae and one of the local banks. The power was off for the better part of two years and this area gets HARD frost down to four feet. The front and back foundation walls heaved in, horizontal crack running nearly the whole length of the building. Back wall was 3 inches out of plumb, front was a little over 2. It wasn't moving any more, but I wanted it fixed. I used the hammer drill to anchor blocks to the floor along the wall every four feet. Also used the hammer drill to anchor jack post plates to the floor every four feet, interspaced with the blocks. Built and installed a header to support the exterior walls, hoisted that in place, and used the jack posts to hold it up. Demoed the raised concrete porch, rented an electric jackhammer. Footing was too shallow and it heaved and I had water running toward the house. Rented a mini excavator to dig 6 feet down to the foundation wall footing. Found the exact route the water line took to get from the well to the place it stubbed up under the floor. Rerouted that madness to a direct line that doesn't run under the septic pipe. Raised the jack posts just enough to take the load off the wall. Installed vertical braces between each anchor blocks and the wall. Pushed out on the bracing with jackbolts through the joists to bring the wall back to plumb. Got it to within 1/2 inch at its worst, most is less than 1/4" out of plumb. Removed two basement windows and filled the holes with block. Removed two more basement windows, more block, and installed egress windows. Installed lower 4' of R10 ground contact foam insulation around exterior of wall. Installed filter fabric in trench. Installed new foundation drainage pipe. Backfilled 3 feet with washed pea stone. Three concrete trucks brought it out with water and just dumped it in the trench where needed. It was a tremendous time saver and well worth the hour of demurrage time they charged. Knocked a hole in each core at the top outside of the wall. Threaded a piece of #3 rebar into each core. Used hammer drill again with a long 1/2 inch bit to make holes at the corners. Stairstep cracks were visible on the exterior, not the interior. Installed several pieces of #3 rebar to tie the corners together. Grouted each core. Paid a local mason to bring a grout pump and a telehandler out to fill cores. I want to say we had 8 cubic yards, and probably lost a yard or so that drizzled down the side of the foundation. Spread mortar to finish filling core holes. Installed window wells for egress windows. Used hammer drill for anchors. Installed upper 4' of R10 ground contact foam insulation around exterior of wall. Backfilled with sand and rental skid steer, used plate compactor a few times on the way up. Installed Novik Stone (cheap faux stone vinyl siding) over the exposed foam above grade. Used hammer drill. Had sand fill and top soil brought in for additional fill around the house. Spread that with a rental skid steer. Planted grass seed. Took your advice regarding layout of flower beds (incorporated curves) from the landscaping thread. Replaced a portion of the sheathing that was rotted away from the heaved concrete porch. Few pictures because I was trying to get stuff done, and have my wife and four kids living in the house. Things to do still: Replace the lowest course of aluminum siding and install flashing or trim over the top of the Novik Stone. Figure out what I want for a front entry porch and back deck and build it. The kids just jump out the sliding glass door in back and we have a sturdy but temporary front entry porch. That's a project for next year when it warms up again. Bring in fill or push fill from other areas on the property to raise my flat clay yard. Much of it has an inch or two of water right now since the late fall Lake Superior rain turned on a month ago. That freezes eventually, but between the time it thaws in late April or May and near July the yard is squishy. My advice regarding housewrap: I like the heavy weight spun products over the woven products. Typar or similar over Tyvek or similar. I have no real empirical evidence to back this, but if you aren't siding right away they hold up fine for several months. It's pretty easy install solo, just lean the roll against the side and work four feet at a time. EDIT, forgot about removing the two unused block pilasters. IDK if they were still deciding on a floor plan when the foundation was built or if the mason didn't have a set of carpentry prints or what, but they both stuck out at an odd place on the walls and the central header runs the other way. View Quote I've jacked a house up before and built a foundation under it (including footers) with help. I don't envy you the steps to fix that basement. I might have walked away from that. Sounds like some other folks did walk away before you got the house. Did you know going in that you had structural issues to fix? |
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Yes, we knew. The price was right. House has more than what we need, and 90% of what we want, and is in about the most convenient spot we could ask for.
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Yes, we knew. The price was right. House has more than what we need, and 90% of what we want, and is in about the most convenient spot we could ask for. View Quote At this point, wish you had done a thread, cuz I'd LOVE to see how you did all that. |
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I honestly would have been more concerned with blowing s tire over busting the able at that point, and I've done both .
You want to know a crazy overload story? I built a trailer from the back end of a1975 f150. Had a 9" axle. The box fell off when I took the topper off so I built a wooden box for it. Nice little heavy duty trailer I got for free. Anyway, the inlaws were building an addition to their house and needed sand for cement work. I took my homemade trailer with 2 foot sides and headed to the gravel pit. Loader man loaded until I signaled on the CB to stop. Scaled out at 7,800 pounds of sand. I jumped on the trailer once I got Home just to say she hauled 4 ton. My f150 could barely get the rig up the hill out of the pit as the tires were spinning! Took her easy on the 5 mile trip back. Let's just say she was riding on the stops . Even in 4wd low range, be could not push it up the slight grass hill to the construction site: all wheels spun . My father in law just shook his head and laughed. |
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I honestly would have been more concerned with blowing s tire over busting the able at that point, and I've done both . You want to know a crazy overload story? I built a trailer from the back end of a1975 f150. Had a 9" axle. The box fell off when I took the topper off so I built a wooden box for it. Nice little heavy duty trailer I got for free. Anyway, the inlaws were building an addition to their house and needed sand for cement work. I took my homemade trailer with 2 foot sides and headed to the gravel pit. Loader man loaded until I signaled on the CB to stop. Scaled out at 7,800 pounds of sand. I jumped on the trailer once I got Home just to say she hauled 4 ton. My f150 could barely get the rig up the hill out of the pit as the tires were spinning! Took her easy on the 5 mile trip back. Let's just say she was riding on the stops . Even in 4wd low range, be could not push it up the slight grass hill to the construction site: all wheels spun . My father in law just shook his head and laughed. View Quote I still don't wanna do that again. Cuz I can't fix it if it breaks. |
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Okay so I should chill about maxing out my axle by almost double??? I still don't wanna do that again. Cuz I can't fix it if it breaks. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I honestly would have been more concerned with blowing s tire over busting the able at that point, and I've done both . You want to know a crazy overload story? I built a trailer from the back end of a1975 f150. Had a 9" axle. The box fell off when I took the topper off so I built a wooden box for it. Nice little heavy duty trailer I got for free. Anyway, the inlaws were building an addition to their house and needed sand for cement work. I took my homemade trailer with 2 foot sides and headed to the gravel pit. Loader man loaded until I signaled on the CB to stop. Scaled out at 7,800 pounds of sand. I jumped on the trailer once I got Home just to say she hauled 4 ton. My f150 could barely get the rig up the hill out of the pit as the tires were spinning! Took her easy on the 5 mile trip back. Let's just say she was riding on the stops . Even in 4wd low range, be could not push it up the slight grass hill to the construction site: all wheels spun . My father in law just shook his head and laughed. I still don't wanna do that again. Cuz I can't fix it if it breaks. |
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Another question for concrete/foundation people... Why is there a line of wicked water at that division between top block and second block? I'm trying to understand how concrete works, and how it moves water. I can tell you for certain that THAT is not the soil level at the point where the moisture line is. The soil level is way lower. At that point it is all fill. HOWEVER, it IS the soil level at the "higher" point where the footer "step up" happens...the "bigger" part of the foundation. Is that why? This doesn't make sense to me. Water goes downhill following the path of least resistance. If the path of least resistance is "UPHILL" through something porous, water will take that path. I just don't understand this wicking from that first block joint. http://www.fototime.com/4AEB40ADA1EEF40/standard.jpg View Quote Also, the mortar is a different porosity, so as water drains from the block, it may stop at the joints. |
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Not a concrete guy, but is that moisture line matching your slab thickness?
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great thread! thanks for sharing the good and the troubles.
i would have never even given a thought to putting drainage around any building that doesn't have a basement. maybe some water proofing on the block to prevent wicking. around here garages on slabs have two or three courses of block above the slab before setting the sill. which may also help prevent water from getting to the sill. that being said i would make you high spot as close to the spaghetti as possible. the drain pipe will flow the water around the building. and the reason i'm posting is i have a makita sds plus. i mostly use it with chisel bit to get the ice out of my skidsteer tracks in the winter. just another reason i shouldn't have moved up here. |
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Not a concrete guy, but is that moisture line matching your slab thickness? View Quote I'm not entirely sure why, since I would think the block is more porous than the pad itself. Maybe there are little penetrations along the edge that are letting in more water. I'm not worried about it. I'm just so new to slabs that the way this behaves is making me scratch my head a little. |
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great thread! thanks for sharing the good and the troubles. i would have never even given a thought to putting drainage around any building that doesn't have a basement. maybe some water proofing on the block to prevent wicking. around here garages on slabs have two or three courses of block above the slab before setting the sill. which may also help prevent water from getting to the sill. that being said i would make you high spot as close to the spaghetti as possible. the drain pipe will flow the water around the building. and the reason i'm posting is i have a makita sds plus. i mostly use it with chisel bit to get the ice out of my skidsteer tracks in the winter. just another reason i shouldn't have moved up here. View Quote So...move south. Oh and bring your skid steer. I might wanna borrow it. |
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Cement isn't waterproof, it acts like a candle wick and will wick water uphill. Also, the mortar is a different porosity, so as water drains from the block, it may stop at the joints. View Quote I just thought it was weird that it fell at that top layer of blocks. So much I don't understand about the way slabs work. |
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That's exactly what it's doing. I'm not entirely sure why, since I would think the block is more porous than the pad itself. Maybe there are little penetrations along the edge that are letting in more water. I'm not worried about it. I'm just so new to slabs that the way this behaves is making me scratch my head a little. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Not a concrete guy, but is that moisture line matching your slab thickness? I'm not entirely sure why, since I would think the block is more porous than the pad itself. Maybe there are little penetrations along the edge that are letting in more water. I'm not worried about it. I'm just so new to slabs that the way this behaves is making me scratch my head a little. |
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Yes. Plastic under the slab. Comes right to the edges. But of course, it's not over the top of those header blocks. It's lying just inside that inside edge, under the pour itself.
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