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Posted: 12/2/2014 6:57:54 AM EST
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TexasTony:
Does anyone here do this professionally?  Like as a full time job or just sell them on the as a hobby? |
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Posted: 12/2/2014 5:57:39 PM EST
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TexasTony: Does anyone here do this professionally? |
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Posted: 12/4/2014 2:58:21 PM EST
[#3]
Any advice on a table mounted belt sander?
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IL, USA
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Posted: 12/4/2014 8:38:13 PM EST
[#4]
What are the pros/cons of using a vaccum forming table for holster making vs foam press?
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TX, USA
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Posted: 12/5/2014 6:15:20 AM EST
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By aperdue:
Many of us do, but are not able to advertise it or solicit sales here due to ar15.com's policies concerning dealers. The best thing to do would probably be to hit the email user button to talk to one of the makers here. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By aperdue:
Originally Posted By TexasTony:
Does anyone here do this professionally? Thank you
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TX, USA
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Posted: 12/5/2014 9:13:32 PM EST
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RdT70:
What are the pros/cons of using a vaccum forming table for holster making vs foam press? Vacuum is faster and more consistent but costs a lot more to start up. |
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IL, USA
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Posted: 12/6/2014 3:39:49 PM EST
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JesseCJC:
Vacuum is faster and more consistent but costs a lot more to start up. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JesseCJC:
Originally Posted By RdT70:
What are the pros/cons of using a vaccum forming table for holster making vs foam press? Vacuum is faster and more consistent but costs a lot more to start up. OK, Thanks. I'm wanting to get into this hobby, but wanted to make sure which way to go. Since I have an old A/C eVac pump, spare portable air tank and scrap silicone sheets, building a small forming table won't cost much. Especially, if I use scrap laying around the shop. As far as 'out of pocket' expense, it should be limited to vac gauge and misc check values, etc. |
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USA
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Posted: 12/7/2014 1:45:43 AM EST
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Like as a full time job or just sell them on the as a hobby? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Originally Posted By TexasTony:
Does anyone here do this professionally? Like as a full time job or just sell them on the as a hobby? IM 4DAIVIPAI2K5 His work is awesome, very awesome. |
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Posted: 12/7/2014 5:46:04 AM EST
[#9]
Thanks man.
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CO, USA
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Posted: 12/8/2014 7:30:36 PM EST
[#10]
Just checking in to see whats new...
Only 600,000 views? Yawn.... 
Keep up the good work everyone....and would someone please sticky thing thing to the top already. |
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Posted: 12/9/2014 8:24:40 PM EST
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rivnut: IM 4DAIVIPAI2K5 His work is awesome, very awesome. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rivnut: Originally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5: Originally Posted By TexasTony: Does anyone here do this professionally? Seconded. Love his work  |
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Posted: 12/9/2014 8:27:28 PM EST
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dtux:
Seconded. Love his work
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dtux:
Originally Posted By Rivnut:
Originally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Originally Posted By TexasTony:
Does anyone here do this professionally? Seconded. Love his work
Thanks fellas. |
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Posted: 12/10/2014 9:06:23 PM EST
[#13]
Clinch pick sheath for pull dot mounting.
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IL, USA
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Posted: 12/14/2014 1:09:10 AM EST
[#14]
Got my vaccum forming table built. It's works like a charm. Here's my 1st try.
.063" Kydex on 13oz veg tanned leather. I think 13oz is a touch thick. Probably go with 10oz for next one. Anyone have a line on 2 screw IWB clips, like Galco uses? I have found Galco's, but dang they are pricey. Also would like to get some Chicago screws in black, with an allen head vs the flat head. Comments, thoughts, suggestions? |
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IL, USA
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Posted: 12/15/2014 10:48:56 PM EST
[#15]
Anyone make a paddle holster, yet? Not a pancake, but a Paddle. Not using someone elses paddle and your shell. But the whole thing from your own materials.
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IL, USA
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Posted: 12/17/2014 1:26:59 PM EST
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RdT70: Anyone make a paddle holster, yet? Not a pancake, but a Paddle. Not using someone elses paddle and your shell. But the whole thing from your own materials. People have done that, but honestly, using a injection molded paddle is far superior to using a Kydex paddle.
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MO, USA
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Posted: 12/17/2014 5:26:20 PM EST
[#17]
I make my own paddle holster in addition to the two part ones. The two part ones are stronger but add a little more cost. These are really for the range and not duty carry.
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Posted: 12/19/2014 12:27:39 AM EST
[#18]
I'm having trouble putting rivets on the mounting holes in back of taco style holsters. After the holster is molded I don't really have enough room to press the rivets. It's costing me a lot of rivets from having to drill out bad ones and some I just can't get at all. Any tips, tricks or special tools to get rivets in tight spaces?
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Posted: 12/19/2014 8:49:46 AM EST
[Last Edit: 4DAIVIPAI2K5]
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
I'm having trouble putting rivets on the mounting holes in back of taco style holsters. After the holster is molded I don't really have enough room to press the rivets. It's costing me a lot of rivets from having to drill out bad ones and some I just can't get at all. Any tips, tricks or special tools to get rivets in tight spaces? Build a negative blocking jig. Cut out blocking to fit the area infront of the trigger guard and below the frame. heat the kydex up along that area and then use your hand or clamps to mold that area. This is the first unfinished holster picture I came across on my flick but you can see the area is are 90* and does not just flow out. I do this to get my eyelets in as close as possible.  1105141854a by 4DAIVIPAI2K5, on Flickr
Hope that helps. The camo makes it a little hard to tell. |
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Posted: 12/19/2014 10:41:16 AM EST
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Build a negative blocking jig. Cut out blocking to fit the area infront of the trigger guard and below the frame. heat the kydex up along that area and then use your hand or clamps to mold that area. This is the first unfinished holster picture I came across on my flick but you can see the area is are 90* and does not just flow out. I do this to get my eyelets in as close as possible. <a href="https://flic.kr/p/pERx5W" target="_blank">https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7547/15535897570_b043a5003e_c.jpg</a>1105141854a by 4DAIVIPAI2K5, on Flickr Hope that helps. The camo makes it a little hard to tell. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Originally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
I'm having trouble putting rivets on the mounting holes in back of taco style holsters. After the holster is molded I don't really have enough room to press the rivets. It's costing me a lot of rivets from having to drill out bad ones and some I just can't get at all. Any tips, tricks or special tools to get rivets in tight spaces? Build a negative blocking jig. Cut out blocking to fit the area infront of the trigger guard and below the frame. heat the kydex up along that area and then use your hand or clamps to mold that area. This is the first unfinished holster picture I came across on my flick but you can see the area is are 90* and does not just flow out. I do this to get my eyelets in as close as possible. <a href="https://flic.kr/p/pERx5W" target="_blank">https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7547/15535897570_b043a5003e_c.jpg</a>1105141854a by 4DAIVIPAI2K5, on Flickr Hope that helps. The camo makes it a little hard to tell. I'm not completely following. What I mean by the the mounting holes on a taco are the holes you would mold onto the back for a Tek Lok or some other mounting system. The holes are in the middle of the holster so the only thing I can think of is to heat it and unfold it but that kind of kills the sight channel and any decent definition along the top of the slide. Here's one on a mag holder I'm working on. I got rivets on 5 holes by unfolding it but for the pistol holster that ruined it. It's the best picture I could get of the tight space but it gets worse for a pistol obviously. 
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IL, USA
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Posted: 12/19/2014 1:35:46 PM EST
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PFC_Dustin: I'm not completely following. What I mean by the the mounting holes on a taco are the holes you would mold onto the back for a Tek Lok or some other mounting system. The holes are in the middle of the holster so the only thing I can think of is to heat it and unfold it but that kind of kills the sight channel and any decent definition along the top of the slide. Here's one on a mag holder I'm working on. I got rivets on 5 holes by unfolding it but for the pistol holster that ruined it. It's the best picture I could get of the tight space but it gets worse for a pistol obviously. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/DDustin5/20141219_002305_zpsabur6mxh.jpg Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PFC_Dustin: Originally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5: Originally Posted By PFC_Dustin: I'm having trouble putting rivets on the mounting holes in back of taco style holsters. After the holster is molded I don't really have enough room to press the rivets. It's costing me a lot of rivets from having to drill out bad ones and some I just can't get at all. Any tips, tricks or special tools to get rivets in tight spaces? Build a negative blocking jig. Cut out blocking to fit the area infront of the trigger guard and below the frame. heat the kydex up along that area and then use your hand or clamps to mold that area. This is the first unfinished holster picture I came across on my flick but you can see the area is are 90* and does not just flow out. I do this to get my eyelets in as close as possible. <a href="https://flic.kr/p/pERx5W" target="_blank">https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7547/15535897570_b043a5003e_c.jpg</a>1105141854a by 4DAIVIPAI2K5, on Flickr Hope that helps. The camo makes it a little hard to tell. I'm not completely following. What I mean by the the mounting holes on a taco are the holes you would mold onto the back for a Tek Lok or some other mounting system. The holes are in the middle of the holster so the only thing I can think of is to heat it and unfold it but that kind of kills the sight channel and any decent definition along the top of the slide. Here's one on a mag holder I'm working on. I got rivets on 5 holes by unfolding it but for the pistol holster that ruined it. It's the best picture I could get of the tight space but it gets worse for a pistol obviously. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/DDustin5/20141219_002305_zpsabur6mxh.jpg What tooling are you using to press the eyelets? Arbor Press with dies?
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FL, USA
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Posted: 12/19/2014 4:59:45 PM EST
[#22]
Been a while since Ive posted here. Made this one yesterday!
got a new one to add to the list:!! Glock 17/22 with a TLR1 IWB, right hand in Kryptek Typhon!! 
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Posted: 12/19/2014 9:20:05 PM EST
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bobapunk:
What tooling are you using to press the eyelets? Arbor Press with dies? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bobapunk:
Originally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
Originally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Originally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
I'm having trouble putting rivets on the mounting holes in back of taco style holsters. After the holster is molded I don't really have enough room to press the rivets. It's costing me a lot of rivets from having to drill out bad ones and some I just can't get at all. Any tips, tricks or special tools to get rivets in tight spaces? Build a negative blocking jig. Cut out blocking to fit the area infront of the trigger guard and below the frame. heat the kydex up along that area and then use your hand or clamps to mold that area. This is the first unfinished holster picture I came across on my flick but you can see the area is are 90* and does not just flow out. I do this to get my eyelets in as close as possible. <a href="https://flic.kr/p/pERx5W" target="_blank">https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7547/15535897570_b043a5003e_c.jpg</a>1105141854a by 4DAIVIPAI2K5, on Flickr Hope that helps. The camo makes it a little hard to tell. I'm not completely following. What I mean by the the mounting holes on a taco are the holes you would mold onto the back for a Tek Lok or some other mounting system. The holes are in the middle of the holster so the only thing I can think of is to heat it and unfold it but that kind of kills the sight channel and any decent definition along the top of the slide. Here's one on a mag holder I'm working on. I got rivets on 5 holes by unfolding it but for the pistol holster that ruined it. It's the best picture I could get of the tight space but it gets worse for a pistol obviously. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/DDustin5/20141219_002305_zpsabur6mxh.jpg What tooling are you using to press the eyelets? Arbor Press with dies? usually I use a die set with my shop press but for tight spaces a small vice is the only thing that kind of fits. |
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Posted: 12/19/2014 9:24:55 PM EST
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
I'm not completely following. What I mean by the the mounting holes on a taco are the holes you would mold onto the back for a Tek Lok or some other mounting system. The holes are in the middle of the holster so the only thing I can think of is to heat it and unfold it but that kind of kills the sight channel and any decent definition along the top of the slide. Here's one on a mag holder I'm working on. I got rivets on 5 holes by unfolding it but for the pistol holster that ruined it. It's the best picture I could get of the tight space but it gets worse for a pistol obviously. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/DDustin5/20141219_002305_zpsabur6mxh.jpg Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
Originally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Originally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
I'm having trouble putting rivets on the mounting holes in back of taco style holsters. After the holster is molded I don't really have enough room to press the rivets. It's costing me a lot of rivets from having to drill out bad ones and some I just can't get at all. Any tips, tricks or special tools to get rivets in tight spaces? Build a negative blocking jig. Cut out blocking to fit the area infront of the trigger guard and below the frame. heat the kydex up along that area and then use your hand or clamps to mold that area. This is the first unfinished holster picture I came across on my flick but you can see the area is are 90* and does not just flow out. I do this to get my eyelets in as close as possible. <a href="https://flic.kr/p/pERx5W" target="_blank">https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7547/15535897570_b043a5003e_c.jpg</a>1105141854a by 4DAIVIPAI2K5, on Flickr Hope that helps. The camo makes it a little hard to tell. I'm not completely following. What I mean by the the mounting holes on a taco are the holes you would mold onto the back for a Tek Lok or some other mounting system. The holes are in the middle of the holster so the only thing I can think of is to heat it and unfold it but that kind of kills the sight channel and any decent definition along the top of the slide. Here's one on a mag holder I'm working on. I got rivets on 5 holes by unfolding it but for the pistol holster that ruined it. It's the best picture I could get of the tight space but it gets worse for a pistol obviously. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/DDustin5/20141219_002305_zpsabur6mxh.jpg Mis understood on my end. Your wanting to rivet the tek lok on? |
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Posted: 12/19/2014 11:31:06 PM EST
[Last Edit: PFC_Dustin]
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Mis understood on my end. Your wanting to rivet the tek lok on? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Originally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
Originally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Originally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
I'm having trouble putting rivets on the mounting holes in back of taco style holsters. After the holster is molded I don't really have enough room to press the rivets. It's costing me a lot of rivets from having to drill out bad ones and some I just can't get at all. Any tips, tricks or special tools to get rivets in tight spaces? Build a negative blocking jig. Cut out blocking to fit the area infront of the trigger guard and below the frame. heat the kydex up along that area and then use your hand or clamps to mold that area. This is the first unfinished holster picture I came across on my flick but you can see the area is are 90* and does not just flow out. I do this to get my eyelets in as close as possible. <a href="https://flic.kr/p/pERx5W" target="_blank">https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7547/15535897570_b043a5003e_c.jpg</a>1105141854a by 4DAIVIPAI2K5, on Flickr Hope that helps. The camo makes it a little hard to tell. I'm not completely following. What I mean by the the mounting holes on a taco are the holes you would mold onto the back for a Tek Lok or some other mounting system. The holes are in the middle of the holster so the only thing I can think of is to heat it and unfold it but that kind of kills the sight channel and any decent definition along the top of the slide. Here's one on a mag holder I'm working on. I got rivets on 5 holes by unfolding it but for the pistol holster that ruined it. It's the best picture I could get of the tight space but it gets worse for a pistol obviously. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/DDustin5/20141219_002305_zpsabur6mxh.jpg Mis understood on my end. Your wanting to rivet the tek lok on? No just rivet the mounting holes for the Tek Lok or whatever attachment option is being used. The Tek Lok still mounts with it's screws like normal. |
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Posted: 12/19/2014 11:43:30 PM EST
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
No just rivet the mounting holes for the Tek Lok or whatever attachment option is being used. Rivet them prior to forming. Put studs on your mold that fit the rivets so that they'll be correctly placed after molding. Or just don't rivet them at all, no one else does. |
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Posted: 12/20/2014 12:52:51 AM EST
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JoshAston:
Rivet them prior to forming. Put studs on your mold that fit the rivets so that they'll be correctly placed after molding. Or just don't rivet them at all, no one else does. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JoshAston:
Originally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
No just rivet the mounting holes for the Tek Lok or whatever attachment option is being used. Rivet them prior to forming. Put studs on your mold that fit the rivets so that they'll be correctly placed after molding. Or just don't rivet them at all, no one else does. I assumed that would cause the plastic to stretch around the rivets and make them pop out. |
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Posted: 12/20/2014 12:56:10 AM EST
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
I assumed that would cause the plastic to stretch around the rivets and make them pop out. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
Originally Posted By JoshAston:
Originally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
No just rivet the mounting holes for the Tek Lok or whatever attachment option is being used. Rivet them prior to forming. Put studs on your mold that fit the rivets so that they'll be correctly placed after molding. Or just don't rivet them at all, no one else does. I assumed that would cause the plastic to stretch around the rivets and make them pop out. I don't know, I've never tried it.
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Posted: 12/20/2014 8:16:00 AM EST
[#29]
No need to rivet them.
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IL, USA
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Posted: 12/20/2014 7:00:53 PM EST
[#30]
Walther PPQ M2, Suede wrapped, tuckable IWB      |
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Posted: 12/20/2014 10:34:26 PM EST
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bobapunk:
Walther PPQ M2, Suede wrapped, tuckable IWB http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt117/bobapunk/NICKydex%20Holsters/1-IMG_7330_zps2aa5136d.jpghttp://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt117/bobapunk/NICKydex%20Holsters/1-IMG_7331_zpsf704f9e1.jpg http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt117/bobapunk/NICKydex%20Holsters/1-IMG_7332_zps37867437.jpg http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt117/bobapunk/NICKydex%20Holsters/1-IMG_7333_zps0bd6d408.jpg http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt117/bobapunk/NICKydex%20Holsters/1-IMG_7334_zps1af88e6b.jpg I like your tuckable mechanism - simple and effective. Maybe it's been done before, but that's the first I've seen. Nice! |
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Posted: 12/24/2014 6:44:59 PM EST
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheMountaineer: I like your tuckable mechanism - simple and effective. Maybe it's been done before, but that's the first I've seen. Nice! Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheMountaineer: Originally Posted By bobapunk: Walther PPQ M2, Suede wrapped, tuckable IWB http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt117/bobapunk/NICKydex%20Holsters/1-IMG_7330_zps2aa5136d.jpghttp://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt117/bobapunk/NICKydex%20Holsters/1-IMG_7331_zpsf704f9e1.jpg http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt117/bobapunk/NICKydex%20Holsters/1-IMG_7332_zps37867437.jpg http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt117/bobapunk/NICKydex%20Holsters/1-IMG_7333_zps0bd6d408.jpg http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt117/bobapunk/NICKydex%20Holsters/1-IMG_7334_zps1af88e6b.jpg I like your tuckable mechanism - simple and effective. Maybe it's been done before, but that's the first I've seen. Nice! |
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Posted: 12/25/2014 3:28:32 AM EST
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By durabo:
That is excellent. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By durabo:
Originally Posted By bendigo78:
Some how I managed to get this right on the first try. I formed it out of the heavier .093 kydex. It's open along the entire length of the top with a small channel formed from the scope base over the front sight. There's 5 eyelets in the front under the barrel to hold the 2 pieces together. Then under the barrel there's 2 tension screws (also adding some strength to the two halves) and another infront of the trigger gaurd. I blocked off all areas that the kydex could sink into so the gun doesn't snap into it like most kydex holsters. Its only held in by a bit of friction adjusted by the tension screws. I added an eyelet under the tension screws so we could add an elastic hammer strap if the tension screws didnt work as planned. There's 8 1/4" fuel line spacers on 8-32 screws that secure it to another kydex plate that has the malice straps attached to it. I'm shocked at how well it works. It rides fairly close to the chest, the tension is perfect, and it's fairly quiet on the draw. Dad plans on wearing it over his bibs but under his coat to keep any precip and dirt off of it. An added bonus to the heavier kydex was that it settled into the flutes of the cylinder preventing the hammer from being cocked with its in the holster. <a href="http://s101.photobucket.com/user/bendigo78/media/kydex/10469037_10152824720953571_7037479311749752766_n_zps4548c408.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/bendigo78/kydex/10469037_10152824720953571_7037479311749752766_n_zps4548c408.jpg</a> That is excellent. 
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Posted: 12/26/2014 5:47:47 PM EST
[Last Edit: PFC_Dustin]
[#34]
Where can I order a thumb break retention hood system like the ones used on Safariland or G code holsters?
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Posted: 12/26/2014 6:57:42 PM EST
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
Where can I order a thumb break retention hood system like the ones used on Safariland or G code holsters? used. |
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Posted: 12/26/2014 8:45:02 PM EST
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
used. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Originally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
Where can I order a thumb break retention hood system like the ones used on Safariland or G code holsters? used. Is there a way to get them not used? I need more than a couple. Also what system is considered the better way to go? |
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Posted: 12/27/2014 8:31:02 AM EST
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
Is there a way to get them not used? I need more than a couple. Also what system is considered the better way to go? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
Originally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Originally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
Where can I order a thumb break retention hood system like the ones used on Safariland or G code holsters? used. Is there a way to get them not used? I need more than a couple. Also what system is considered the better way to go? Buy brand new holsters and take them off yourself would be the only other way. I prefer the SL system/ |
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USA
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Posted: 12/27/2014 11:29:18 AM EST
[#38]
I am using my 12 Ton A-frame but I don't crank it down hard because I am using guns.
I guess I need to get some props and crank it down. |
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Posted: 12/27/2014 12:34:51 PM EST
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Buy brand new holsters and take them off yourself would be the only other way. I prefer the SL system/ Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Originally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
Originally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Originally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
Where can I order a thumb break retention hood system like the ones used on Safariland or G code holsters? used. Is there a way to get them not used? I need more than a couple. Also what system is considered the better way to go? Buy brand new holsters and take them off yourself would be the only other way. I prefer the SL system/ Are the ALS locking mechanisms universal or would I have to find the holster for that gun? |
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Posted: 12/27/2014 1:16:13 PM EST
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
Are the ALS locking mechanisms universal or would I have to find the holster for that gun? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
Originally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Originally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
Originally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Originally Posted By PFC_Dustin:
Where can I order a thumb break retention hood system like the ones used on Safariland or G code holsters? used. Is there a way to get them not used? I need more than a couple. Also what system is considered the better way to go? Buy brand new holsters and take them off yourself would be the only other way. I prefer the SL system/ Are the ALS locking mechanisms universal or would I have to find the holster for that gun? All the same. |
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Posted: 12/27/2014 10:21:31 PM EST
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By moorhe:
I am using my 12 Ton A-frame but I don't crank it down hard because I am using guns. I guess I need to get some props and crank it down. that is exactly what I do and need to do |
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LA, USA
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Posted: 12/31/2014 10:46:36 AM EST
[#42]
Leatherman Brewzer on the Daypack for Beer on the Go!
 
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Posted: 12/31/2014 10:23:17 PM EST
[Last Edit: JonnyVain]
[#43]
Version 3.0 of my aiwb.
Workmanship sucks but design is done.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 12/31/2014 11:37:00 PM EST
[#44]
I've been busy...
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Posted: 1/1/2015 7:45:03 AM EST
[Last Edit: gabeowp]
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 19Charlie_84:
I've been busy... <a href="http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Cramerica1/media/Kydex/VP9TLR-1_zpsee30b758.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/Cramerica1/Kydex/VP9TLR-1_zpsee30b758.jpg</a> <a href="http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Cramerica1/media/Kydex/Glock171926_zpsc3333ec2.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/Cramerica1/Kydex/Glock171926_zpsc3333ec2.jpg</a> <a href="http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Cramerica1/media/Kydex/357_zpsc9f9d624.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/Cramerica1/Kydex/357_zpsc9f9d624.jpg</a> <a href="http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Cramerica1/media/Kydex/Glock1917QD_zpsa55b3d07.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/Cramerica1/Kydex/Glock1917QD_zpsa55b3d07.jpg</a> <a href="http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Cramerica1/media/Kydex/ShieldDots_zps9d1a1459.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/Cramerica1/Kydex/ShieldDots_zps9d1a1459.jpg</a> <a href="http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Cramerica1/media/Kydex/G19OWBCon_zps428dc856.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/Cramerica1/Kydex/G19OWBCon_zps428dc856.jpg</a> <a href="http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Cramerica1/media/Kydex/O-IWB1911_zpsf9e1ca90.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/Cramerica1/Kydex/O-IWB1911_zpsf9e1ca90.jpg</a> <a href="http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Cramerica1/media/Kydex/IMG_20141222_201302270_HDR_zpsf6a8e4b5.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/Cramerica1/Kydex/IMG_20141222_201302270_HDR_zpsf6a8e4b5.jpg</a> <a href="http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Cramerica1/media/Kydex/MampPBlack_zps0caa6975.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/Cramerica1/Kydex/MampPBlack_zps0caa6975.jpg</a> <a href="http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Cramerica1/media/Kydex/DadsWoodland_zps44fc0cd5.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/Cramerica1/Kydex/DadsWoodland_zps44fc0cd5.jpg</a> <a href="http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Cramerica1/media/Kydex/PinkDotsG19_zpse18f4ede.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/Cramerica1/Kydex/PinkDotsG19_zpse18f4ede.jpg</a> <a href="http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Cramerica1/media/Kydex/BizCardHolder_zpsa2004150.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/Cramerica1/Kydex/BizCardHolder_zpsa2004150.jpg</a> <a href="http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Cramerica1/media/Kydex/BizCards2_zps44a35104.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/Cramerica1/Kydex/BizCards2_zps44a35104.jpg</a> <a href="http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Cramerica1/media/Kydex/MampPQD_zpse5050f48.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/Cramerica1/Kydex/MampPQD_zpse5050f48.jpg</a> Ahhh... I see what you did there  but nice looking stuff non the less.
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Posted: 1/1/2015 9:47:32 AM EST
[#46]
Wow, great stuff.
Just curious- what would be required, at a minimum, as far as tools and supplies to get started in making kydex holsters? |
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Posted: 1/1/2015 2:37:32 PM EST
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bruins: Wow, great stuff. Just curious- what would be required, at a minimum, as far as tools and supplies to get started in making kydex holsters? |
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Posted: 1/1/2015 4:32:30 PM EST
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JonnyVain:
Make a press. Utility knife, sandpaper, screwdriver. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JonnyVain:
Originally Posted By Bruins:
Wow, great stuff. Just curious- what would be required, at a minimum, as far as tools and supplies to get started in making kydex holsters? Painters tape |
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Posted: 1/2/2015 6:49:09 AM EST
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Sierra5:
Painters tape Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Sierra5:
Originally Posted By JonnyVain:
Originally Posted By Bruins:
Wow, great stuff. Just curious- what would be required, at a minimum, as far as tools and supplies to get started in making kydex holsters? Painters tape What do you recommend for a press/proper materials for making one? |
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IL, USA
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Posted: 1/2/2015 8:46:40 AM EST
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bruins: What do you recommend for a press/proper materials for making one? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bruins: Originally Posted By Sierra5: Originally Posted By JonnyVain: Originally Posted By Bruins: Wow, great stuff. Just curious- what would be required, at a minimum, as far as tools and supplies to get started in making kydex holsters? Painters tape What do you recommend for a press/proper materials for making one? MDF, 2x2s, Good foam (like the expensive foam from Knife Kits) and some bar clamps (I prefer the 1000# Jorgensen clamps, but many people do fine with 600# Irwins). That is a basic press. More exotic designs replace the bar clamps with things like scissor jacks, hydraulic jacks, or screw presses. |
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