Vent tube is the only obvious difference.
 

Got to talking with a conspiracy-theorist acquaintance recently who has strongly negative opinions about storing fuel. He says it's not worth it because today's commercial gasoline is designed to break down and go bad within two to three weeks. He turns up his nose at Sta-Bil and any other the other preservers and stabilizers saying that they won't work.

Has anyone heard anything to either support or refute these claims? Fuel storage is a current focus at my homestead, so your opinions and expertise is appreciated.

I just rotated my gas that I had stored in my garage for 11 months. This is in Phoenix, AZ.



Gas was sealed in jerry cans that I bought from DO & had a shot of stabil in each one.



Neither my truck nor my wife's car are having any issues with it after 2 days of driving.



I wouldn't try that with a plastic can if I could avoid it.






 

I've recently parked a car for a little over six months and it cranked fine and ran on the full tank of fuel that was in it when it was parked.  Now, this was ethanol free gasoline.  Your friend doesn't know what the hell he's talking about.  It's actually not that uncommon for people to regularly park cars for two or three weeks, I think we'd be hearing a lot more complaints if their gas was routinely going bad in that time frame.

I have a suspicion that your friend or one of his buddies has heard stories about E10 going bad quicker than E0.  This is certainly true and I've heard people claim that E10 can go bad in as little as two to three weeks, but frankly I'd don't believe it unless we're talking about an extreme situation (say for a boat with a mostly empty tank in the heat of the summer).  I think he's put that bit of information together with the government mandating E10 and decided that there is a conspiracy to make everyone's gasoline go bad in a few weeks.  I don't like to keep E10 on hand for more than two to three months, but in a well sealed full container it will do better than that (but, since I have a source of E0 nearby, why risk it for my stored fuel).

I've got a Suburban thats a gas pig. It's used strictly when the whole family has to get somewhere or pulling my snowmobiles. It'll sit for a month or two sometimes without being driven. The thing has a 38 gallon tank, fuel in it could easily be 6 months old before I fill it. Never added a stabilizer to it in my life, runs fine everytime we climb in.

Do you have a ball park idea on price? My local Fleet Farm has cans that look identical for $39. If you'll priced similarly, I'll save the shipping cost and grab those.

Thanks for the info.

Rover parts is having a sale on the jerry cans and spouts. 5 gal cans are $34.95.

I believe your question contains its own answer.

Modern gasolines are almost always oxygenated ethanol blends. They do oxidize relatively quickly, and ethanol is hydroscopic, so they are also prone to what's called 'phase seperation'. Proper storage will reduce the rate at which they deteriorate, but they still deteriorate relatively quickly. If storing fuel is important to you, then go diesel. Not only does it have a much longer storage life, but it's much safer.

The four I received today from Deutsche Optik were all stamped "Not For Fuel Use".  

Put a happy face sticker over it.

Or a 'Peace' sticker.

Just a reminder, the Scepter cans have a 2 inch pipe thread inside of the mouth.

Any store that has fittings will have 2" PVC adapters so you can make any kind of fancy spout you can dream up for not much dinero.

Has anyone tried the 5-gallon "Utility Jugs" from Jegs?  They look decent, and convenient having two handles to pour.
Also, they are made in the USA and have a bunch of colors to choose from.

JEGS 5-Gallon Utility Jugs

They will haul gas just fine.  



They will not store gas well.  You will not be able to use them to haul gas in any cargo area where you have to breath the same air that the Jegs jug breaths.



Those jugs have a snap cap vent that will open when pressure builds up inside the jug.  When the vent opens fuel vapor blows out.  Gas vapor and air are the only ingredients in the MOAB bomb.  If you use those Jegs jugs to store fuel then you are providing half of a bomb, and air is probably already readily available wherever you store the jug.



Those jugs are for hauling gas to the racetrack in a trailer, and riding home empty.  Only having fuel in them for a few hours.  



If you want to store gas then you need to get a container that seals––please go read the last post on page 1 of this thread








 

Is there any difference between the red Scepter cans, and the "military" cans? Are they a civilian version?

Are they worth the same or less? I found a few guys local to me selling some, and the guy with the red ones is asking less money.

Southpaw how much is your Landcruiser worth?  I would not be surprised if you tell me that it would take more than $10,000 to replace your car.  What is $200 on $10,000?  It is 2%.  The cost of 4 NEW fuel cans may be ONLY TWO PERCENT of the value of your car.  





You have already tried to save money by using Wal-Mart fuel cans.  Now because the Wal-Mart cans do not work you are looking for something else.  The money you spent on the poor fuel cans has been wasted.  Why are you trying to throw away more money by refusing to buy good fuel cans?





Please


If you cannot afford good fuel cans at this time then do the following.  1) Keep your car topped off and find the best price on fuel by googling gasbuddy.  2) Save what you can afford to toward the purchase of good fuel cans, then when you have enough money buy the good cans.
 
 

It's not just a question of my Land Cruiser. I also have an RV (with genny), and another car. I'm also in the market for a generator for our home. I also want to get a few cans to keep at my fathers house as well for him, and because it's also one of my BOL's.

Also, I think you have me confused with someone else. I haven't tried to save money by using wal-mart cans. I have one small 1.25 gallon
can that was given to me. I bought another can from a guy locally for $6 that came with a nozzle that can be used with scepter cans.

I'll probably get the NATO cans anyway, but I was thinking about some extra cans for my various vehicles and for my father. I just want to know
what the pros and cons of the various cans available are. I don't understand the hostility. Maybe I'm just over sensitive. I understand you being
frustrated with people asking the same questions over and over. I get it. It happens on every forum, in every section, and it will continue until the sun goes
supernova.

Yes, I don't have unlimited $$ to buy anything and everything, but I have made inquiries, and I found people locally who are selling used cans
at what appears to be very good prices. I just want to know if I would be wasting my money on some of them, and also want to know what to look
for when buying. I don't have any experience with them, so I thought I'd ask people who know about them and have used them. That's all.
Maybe the questions I ask will benefit others who are in a similar situation as well.

I'm pretty resourceful when it comes to finding deals on things. It's sort of a side business for me. Just with other things, not fuel cans. I concentrate
on buying things I have knowledge about, so I don't get ripped off, and can make a profit. In the case of fuel cans, I know practically nothing. I have
learned quite a bit from reading here and other forums, but I thought I'd find out all the details before I go and start spending money willy nilly on a
bunch of cans.

Sorry if I seem like a pain to you. It's not my intent. I appreciate the time you and others have taken, but I don't think it's cool to talk down
to the new people. I'm very knowledgeable in other areas, and have much to contribute. It's just that when it comes to fuel cans, I know almost nothing.

I don't mean to be a bother. I know fuel cans aren't sexy, and some people would rather talk about their mad max fantasies, but if anyone wouldn't mind, is there any difference between the Red scepter cans, and the tan/green cans?

No worries



When your only posted intent was to haul a bit of gas about in the your SUV, it really appeared that you were attempting to be penny wise and pound foolish.  



If you have room at your home or father's home, then a 30 gallon or 55 gallon drum would be a very cost effective storage container.  



Look at the pictures on page one of this thread.  If you get Scepter cans get the 3 handled ones like what are pictured on page one...do not worry about color if the scepter has 3 handles.






 

The single handle red (& yellow for diesel) Scepter cans that look like a jerry can are a bit better than the cheapo Blitz cans sold at Wal-Mart (thicker plastic)......but they still have the crappy CARB nozzle now.  The light blue water can that is the same style comes with a non CARB nozzle & has a screw on vent cap but don't be an idiot by putting gas in a water can & it's not worth spending the $$$ on it just to get the non CARB nozzle.  The Scepter single handle "jeep" cans won't swell or vent quite as bad as the flimsy Blitz plastic cans but they're not in the same league as the Scepter MFC (3 handle, large cap).

I recently picked up some Sceptre MFCs, and a few have the cap retention strap broken. Is there still a source for these? Ive already pmed vatopa for gaskets.

Ebay for sure

I found some on eBay... I was thinking these were $4-$5, not $13. Were the parts banned too?

I just committed to purchasing 2 of  these.  Picking them up tomorrow. $20.00 each in new condition.  Plus a metal spout.  I read the complete thread through at least twice. Still have questions though.  Would I be better off to sell them and order the DO or Atlantic.  I would like to carry these in holders on the rear of my jeep.  Does anyone know if they are lined? I am sure they are not the same quality as the Military Blitz (thinner metal). These have a model # 11010 and are made by blitz.  resellers through Amazon are pretty proud of them by looking at their prices.http://www.amazon.com/Blitz-11010-Gallon-Steel-Gas/dp/B00004X14D

The rust on new cans is disappointing but not necessarily a deal breaker.

My gut feeling is that those are knock-offs. I've got Israeli, British, German and US Jerry cans, and they're identical. These, on the other hand, have subtle differences. The locking pin and the shape of the vent, for example. And the rust along the seam indicates that the metal was coated before being welded. Last but not least, Grouch's comment that they're "definitely a lighter gauge metal".

I'll stick with the BA or DO cans....

Waiting with much anticipation  hope its just a gasket.

Maybe I just don't get it. Those cans are the same price are the DO and BA cans. Why wait? The BA cans are on sale for $35?

Same here.  Received my cans from British Atlantic today and they are excellent.

Eastwood makes some stuff of gas tank resto  tank

yeah you could use something like Red-Kote to seal the inside of the cans or restore older cans but it costs almost as much as a new can...

http://damonq.com/Red-Kote.html

POR-15 and others make similar stuff for auto restoration that would likely work great too.

Does anybody here know if the blue cans from British Atlantic are for kerosene?  They are advertised, just like the green ones for non-potable water and cost $5. more so I would assume that they are for kerosene.  B.A. is sticking to there guns and saying these are a "lined water can".
Thanks

I just sprayed 2 of my green cans blue.  It cost less than $5 for the can of krylon.

Wouldn't  yellow be a better indicator of Kerosene/Diesel.  And Blue for water?

My understanding is blue for kerosene and yellow for diesel.  The commercial Kero cans I bought were blue.  I'm not sure why you use blue for water and kerosene but that's what I've read.   I labeled the cans in case I'm not around and my wife need to use them.

That is my understanding also.  A lighter blue for water and a darker blue for keresone.  Since the blue ones at B.A. are more expencive than the gas ones I was hopeing someone might confirm that these are for keresone instead of water.  I would think the gasket and lineing would need to be more beefed up for the keresone than the water cans.

Oops.  I spilled a little kerosene while filling the can.  It took the paint right off.  Maybe the extra $5 is well spent.

Maybe ask them if the lining and the gaskets are the same as the green ones.  I think that would be the answer.

Paint usually needs a few days to cure fully. And the paint beneath doesn't look like it was primed or scuffed up any, so the new paint probably didn't have anything to hold on to.

FWIW:


Obviously that doesn't meet any legal requirements in the US but it could be useful just the same.