Finally ordered it with $10 discount from PF, on account of previous items ordered from PF site.

Link to vendor with pix and text description: HERE

At that moment, slightly less price than on Amazon.

Also ordered a separate Aluminum Swedish stove base, which I'm told is considerably lighter than SS stove base in Pathfinder item.  Swedish stove base comes with Military alcohol burner and Swedish GI fuel bottle.   Items received, and the "expected" dents in the stove base were remediated by finger-pressure.  Search Ebay for seller "Gomilitar".  That's the spare aluminum stove, plus fuel bottle and military burner.

The aluminum Swedish stove can replace the heavier SS Pathfinder stove.  "Extra" AL stove is not likely cost-effective for some folks, but it IS a significant weight saving.  I have reservations about using the AL stove for twig/wood fires on account of the AL stove possibly melting/warping but using it along with alcohol burner/fuel tabs should be fine.

Will see if bespoke aluminum lids (from UK vendor) for Swedish aluminum cook set will fit the PFM 40 cook set.  Such lids not cheap, but very useful for deterring crud ingression, and for using less fuel.

I already have two Swedish AL cook sets, bought long ago when reasonably priced, and so intrigued by the SS Pathfinder offering.  I also have a 3-pot AL Euro-style cook set onto which I installed a slightly modified AL Swedish surplus stove.

Folks wanting to have a "bag" for their Swedish/PF cook set may want to examine this item: BAE/Eclipse Gas Mask Bag  Bought the ($23) UCP bag and will dye it.

Link to the site where you ordered it from?

I bought the Pathfinder kit specifically as a vehicle set up.   I wouldn't pack one personally, aluminum or not.

Search Ebay for seller "Gomilitar".  That's the spare aluminum stove, plus fuel bottle and military burner.

I think the OP is talking about the PFM40 cookset from Self Reliance Outfitters. But it’s not exactly clear.

https://www.selfrelianceoutfitters.com/products/pfm40-cook-set?keyword=pfm

That's right.  Regret confusion caused by my mistake.  If you have no "points" accrued on SRO/PF items, prices on amazon, with possibly free shipping, go up and down and may be cheaper.

I bought of the Swedish milsurp cook sets years ago when they were dirt cheap and I like everything about it except for the fact the cooking pots are aluminum.

I ordered one of the PFM40 stainless steel clones from Amazon and it's out for delivery today. I intend to swap out the stainless stove stand for an extra Swede aluminum stand I picked up somewhere years ago.

I'm not using it for long range back packing trips so the weight of the stainless steel pots isn't an issue. I'm glad these are being produced since the price of the milsurp SS sets are going for insane prices now.

Blackie Thomas vid HERE   For some simple but effective tips/mods for Swede stove/cookset.

Like some others here I have two stainless Swedish cook sets purchased before the prices rose.

I wanted a MOLLE pouch to carry the set in.

The hanger sticking out on each side of the large pot would wear through a normal pouch very quickly.

MOLLE SAW 200 round pouches have hard plastic ends sewn into the pouch. The plastic ends keep the cook pot hanger attachment points from wearing through - almost like the pouch was designed for this purpose.

This pouch design is just the right size to transport my cook set. Most recent US military camo patterns are available.

Good find!  ABU and UCP versions are available for cheap and easily dyed.  FWIW, I "nip" the corners of the hard plastic inserts so as to deter the sharp plastic corners from poking through the fabric on both the 200 rd and similar 100 rd pouches.

ETA:  These relatively inexpensive pouches work perfectly well for both the Swedish M-40 cookset and the modern PFM40 cookset.  Just received two UCP 200-rd pouches and tried them.  GTG!

The lid/top flap of the pouch is non-adjustable, so the pouch may not accept cooksets whose vertical dimensions exceed those of the Swedish/PFM40 units.  Obviously, a sewist could add an adjustable buckle and longer strap.  Conversely, a shorter cookset can easily have some closed-cell foam added on top or bottom.  Such closed cell foam can also serve as a "base" on which to set the heated pot/cup when one is in snow country.

User can add 2 x 1" "D" rings to the PALS attachment straps on back of pouch and a shoulder strap for a "grab-and-go" kit.

Do yourself a favor and turn the pouches inside-out.  This will expose "lengths" of "internal" raw-edged fabric which can be seared/melted with careful use of a Bic lighter.  It is common to find such raw-edged fabric on pouches, regardless of the manufacturer.  Such raw-edged fabric is subject to unravelling over time.  Searing/melting the raw edges of such fabric will allow your pouch to last a lot longer.  As is my usual custom, I will trim (to about 3/16") all loose threads and melt them.  I will also re-set all the loose snaps so that they are firmly seated and will not pull-out over time.  Snap-setting tools available on amazon.

Above is my typical procedure with all such items.  YMMV.

These pouches are a great idea for this purpose.

I'll dye my UCP pouches, along with some other UCP items, with 4 parts Rit Apple Green, 2 parts Rit Dark Green, and 2 parts Rit Taupe dye.  this "should" give an overall "Olive Green" color.

@thomasplaster223

Suggested Mods/"adjustments" to PFM40:

1) Carefully used hand pressure to slightly "adjust" fit of all components so they fit together properly and come apart easily.  A bit of a fuss, but easily done--well worth the effort for hassle/frustration reduction.  Not "normally" required with Swedish aluminum cook sets, unless they were damaged.

2)  Pressed slightly "extending" hinge pin fully into the hinge using small "c" clamp.  Filed burrs on ends of hinge and pin smooth with a small file.

3) (Optional) Bought a spare Swedish Aluminum "stove" along with Swedish military alcohol burner and Swedish plastic fuel bottle.

3) Used diamond cutting wheel on Dremel tool to cut a slot for cup handle into side of the Swedish stove opposite original cuts for pot ring and cup handle.  See link to Blackie Thomas stove mods above.  Cut is approx 5/8" vertical depth, and approx 2-1/8" horizontal width.  This depth allows cup to seat on the internal supports within the Swedish stove, and the width of the cut allows cup to be installed/removed easily.  Horizontal width kinda variable to suit the hinge on the cup but leave some slight additional horizontal width.  Chamfer corners of top of cutout and use small round file to "round" the internal corners of the cut-out to eliminate sharp internal corners which are possible sources of heat/stress cracking.

4) (Optional) Will either sand or bead-blast external very "shiny" external surfaces and paint them with suitable high-temp black (exhaust header) paint. Such paint considerably speeds up cooking/heating times (compared to bare metal) and usually makes for easier removal of external soot/grime.

Observations:

1) Swedish stove has six (3 per side) additional vent holes around perimeter of its bottom.  Will investigate/compare Swedish stove compared to OEM PFM40 stove using different fuel sources, including alcohol burner, fuel tabs, and trigs.   Will take some time.

2) There is a nearly circular sliding "hook" on the Swedish and PFM40 stoves.  Some say the main reason for this hook was for a squad cooking food with many cooking pots supported over a long fire pit on a pole to which the "hook" was secured.  Maybe so.  Some other clever folks have found that the "hook" can be used, in conjunction with the existing "tab" on the cooking pot to act as a reasonably decent pot handle.  See Blackie Thomas vids.

3) As both the Swedish and PFM40 stoves are configured, it is not easy to use a low-profile, small gas burner inside the stove.  It may be possible to drill a single hole suitable for the gas hose (and wider diameter gas hose fittings) in order to install a very low-profile gas burner within the stove.  I suspect I'm not alone in wanting to experiment with this approach, since it adds versatility to these items without any significant drawbacks.

All for now. Learning as I go.

ETA: Am currently using 320 grit sandpaper to reduce typically "bright" Pathfinder stainless steel finish to a surface which can be painted, or even left alone with significantly reduced "shine".  Will use flat black High-Temp exhaust header paint since common camo colors unavailable in that type of paint.  Other folks have used less expensive "barbecue grill" flat black paint.

I found some 320 grit sandpaper suitable for my orbital HF Palm Sander, which should speed things up considerably, compared to hand sanding.  No doubt some sheets of 320 grit sandpaper will be needed for specific areas.

Entire exterior of cook set will be painted, but leaving the "overlap" between top cup and bottom pot sanded, but clear of paint.  Stove item will be painted inside and out.

Rounding-off all sharp corners/edges on stamped handle with a file prior to sanding for better paint adhesion/durability.

Painting over a properly prepared surface will provide decreased heating time of vessel and contents, as well as increased ability to remove grime, especially if wood is used as a heat source.

Ongoing project, learning as I go.

I understand that some of the measures I'm taking involve more effort than some will wish to take.  To each his own.

ETA: Used RustOleum 2000 deg F exhaust header spray paint to coat external surfaces of the whole kit.  NO paint inside any item, and no paint on interfacing surfaces between cup and pot.  Spent most of the morning following directions on the paint can to progressively "cure" the paint in the oven.

Cured paint seems reasonably durable.  Further tests required.  May take some time.

Aluminum lid which will fit both the cup and pot (different dimensions) currently being made by UK vendor. See "woodlorien" on e-bay.  Will spray paint exterior of well-sanded lid with common black paint, since it does not encounter much heat.

More later.