Posted: 8/17/2025 1:54:25 PM EDT
| I need to kill off a pasture after I Bush hog it. Then be able to plant 3 ac of clover in a couple of months from now. What Herbicide will work yet allow planting? Cost effective a plus. |
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A lot of the most effective herbicides are species specific. As an example, In my part of Idaho Spotted Knapweed is a problem. Milestone and its generic equivalent, Whetstone are the ones to use. You might want to contact your state Department of agriculture and pose the question to them. |
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*edit* I misread your post. Unless there's some specific pernicious tree or something you're trying to keep from regrowing, I'd just use glyphosate. It breaks down in sunlight fast enough to let you plant in a reasonable time, I think |
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Originally Posted By Ernesto556: Glyphosate, let it work, disc, wait two weeks, Glyphosate all the new weeds, let it work, disc, pack/roll, and seed. That's the method in my hood for new pasture eliminating all the old material. This is the way to completely eliminate any plant you don't want in a field. |
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Originally Posted By nipster74: This is the way to completely eliminate any plant you don't want in a field. Originally Posted By nipster74: Originally Posted By Ernesto556: Glyphosate, let it work, disc, wait two weeks, Glyphosate all the new weeds, let it work, disc, pack/roll, and seed. That's the method in my hood for new pasture eliminating all the old material. This is the way to completely eliminate any plant you don't want in a field. Unless those undesired plants happen to be sweetgum saplings. I swear those things could grow on the surface of the moon. |
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| Is there anything in or around the pasture you wouldn’t want dead like an old oak tree? Any specific weeds growing or been fighting in the past? Glyphosate is a good burn down, but if there are some things growing that glyphosate might just ding and adding or using something else might be worth spraying the first time before your clover gets going and it comes up with it. I’ve got to hit my field with some Rifle D before I put my clover out this year due to the thistle that that I’ve missed in my spot spraying through the summer. |
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Call your local farm service outfits and get a quote on having it sprayed for you. Their guy will look at it and see what weeds are there, know what is common in your area, and what to use to get rid of them. 3 acres is a lot smaller than they are generally dealing with but they'll probably work with you. By the time you get a sprayer and such it's going to cost you a lot, then you'll find that all the good herbicides are restricted use and you'd have to be certified to get them. Spray BEFORE bush hogging it, you need the foliage of the plant to be there to get sprayed. Spray and wait like 2 weeks, then mow what's left. |
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| @tinspinner Polaris ac/arsenal chemical name is imazapyr kills everything but a pine tree. Use 1 oz of it with 3 ounces of makzee/glyphosate per gallon of water. Don’t get it anywhere close to the drip line/ roots of anything you don’t want to kill. Wash tank and lines really well before using spray rig again to get rid of any residual. |
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Originally Posted By runs_with_scissors: @tinspinner Polaris ac/arsenal chemical name is imazapyr kills everything but a pine tree. Use 1 oz of it with 3 ounces of makzee/glyphosate per gallon of water. Don’t get it anywhere close to the drip line/ roots of anything you don’t want to kill. Wash tank and lines really well before using spray rig again to get rid of any residual. How about runoff? There is a slope on that pasture that feeds into 2 creeks, one of them quite large. I imagine anything that potent is also deadly to aquatic life, I'd hate to kill everything in my corner of the county. |
Life's battles don't always go to the stronger or faster man. In the end, the one who wins is the one who thinks he can! - SCI, NRA
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Originally Posted By TinSpinner: How about runoff? There is a slope on that pasture that feeds into 2 creeks, one of them quite large. I imagine anything that potent is also deadly to aquatic life, I'd hate to kill everything in my corner of the county. I’ll talk to my boss to be sure but I think you would be fine as long as it doesn’t come a rain before it had a chance to dry. Know they use it on young pine stands to get rid of the under brush. They spray it by plane to help the pines not fight for nutrients and give them a chance to shoot up. IIRC it’s more of a ground absorb which is why you keep it away from the drip line of anything you don’t want dead. |
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Originally Posted By Ernesto556: Glyphosate, let it work, disc, wait two weeks, Glyphosate all the new weeds, let it work, disc, pack/roll, and seed. That's the method in my hood for new pasture eliminating all the old material. This is what I would do. I would be wary of fallow ground through the winter though, depending on where you live. The timing might be difficult and you might have to let it lie fallow. But we know now that it's not the best for the soil. The thinking and understanding has changed over the past few years. |
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Originally Posted By TinSpinner: How about runoff? There is a slope on that pasture that feeds into 2 creeks, one of them quite large. I imagine anything that potent is also deadly to aquatic life, I'd hate to kill everything in my corner of the county. Yeah I would not do Imazapyr. It has a very long residual. In many cases, up to a year or even many years. Chems with residuals like that tend to resist breaking down even in a ruminant's digestive system, though I don't have any specs or studies on that for Imazapyr. It's a ground clearing chem and meant to keep anything from growing. Your reseeding window is about five months minimum, and germination is not guaranteed even then. there are a lot of options. If it were mine, I'd do a series with glyphosate (leaving as much dead material intact and on the ground as possible--this acts as a mulch to hold the soil--and the seed--when you plant the new crop. Once you see what difficult plants you have, you can spot spray with a bigger gun. Something like triclopyr is touchy but it's a good chem and very predictable. EXCEPT...do NOT spray it if there is a chance of temp inversion. Like if it's very, very still? Yeah, don't spray then. Google temp inversion so you can understand it or poke me and I'll explain more. But triclopyr is bad for drift and will go straight up, then move over to the neighbor's field and settle on something. Not trying to scare you. I use it and like it. But I'm careful with it. Okay did that make any sense at all? 
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Nobody ever wakes me at 2 in the morning telling me that my grass is out on the highway.~~Radiopat
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs: But triclopyr is bad for drift and will go straight up, then move over to the neighbor's field and settle on something. Not trying to scare you. I use it and like it. But I'm careful with it. That's part of why I said to let the farm service folks spray it for OP, they'll know what is all around you and how to avoid causing any problems. Glyphosate alone is not a very good burn down, it works well on grasses and some things but not as good on some other kinds of weeds. 24D is a common adjunct, that mix is generally pretty good. Dicamba is also a good adjunct but is particularly bad at vaporizing and spreading airborne so is not recommended for non-professional application. Agree that you don't want to leave it bare over the winter, get it seeded in your desired pasture grass or else some kind of cover crop. |
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs: Yeah I would not do Imazapyr. It has a very long residual. In many cases, up to a year or even many years. Chems with residuals like that tend to resist breaking down even in a ruminant's digestive system, though I don't have any specs or studies on that for Imazapyr. It's a ground clearing chem and meant to keep anything from growing. Your reseeding window is about five months minimum, and germination is not guaranteed even then. there are a lot of options. If it were mine, I'd do a series with glyphosate (leaving as much dead material intact and on the ground as possible--this acts as a mulch to hold the soil--and the seed--when you plant the new crop. Once you see what difficult plants you have, you can spot spray with a bigger gun. Something like triclopyr is touchy but it's a good chem and very predictable. EXCEPT...do NOT spray it if there is a chance of temp inversion. Like if it's very, very still? Yeah, don't spray then. Google temp inversion so you can understand it or poke me and I'll explain more. But triclopyr is bad for drift and will go straight up, then move over to the neighbor's field and settle on something. Not trying to scare you. I use it and like it. But I'm careful with it. Okay did that make any sense at all? Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs: Originally Posted By TinSpinner: How about runoff? There is a slope on that pasture that feeds into 2 creeks, one of them quite large. I imagine anything that potent is also deadly to aquatic life, I'd hate to kill everything in my corner of the county. Yeah I would not do Imazapyr. It has a very long residual. In many cases, up to a year or even many years. Chems with residuals like that tend to resist breaking down even in a ruminant's digestive system, though I don't have any specs or studies on that for Imazapyr. It's a ground clearing chem and meant to keep anything from growing. Your reseeding window is about five months minimum, and germination is not guaranteed even then. there are a lot of options. If it were mine, I'd do a series with glyphosate (leaving as much dead material intact and on the ground as possible--this acts as a mulch to hold the soil--and the seed--when you plant the new crop. Once you see what difficult plants you have, you can spot spray with a bigger gun. Something like triclopyr is touchy but it's a good chem and very predictable. EXCEPT...do NOT spray it if there is a chance of temp inversion. Like if it's very, very still? Yeah, don't spray then. Google temp inversion so you can understand it or poke me and I'll explain more. But triclopyr is bad for drift and will go straight up, then move over to the neighbor's field and settle on something. Not trying to scare you. I use it and like it. But I'm careful with it. Okay did that make any sense at all? That made perfect sense, thanks! |
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Originally Posted By Gamma762: That's part of why I said to let the farm service folks spray it for OP, they'll know what is all around you and how to avoid causing any problems. Glyphosate alone is not a very good burn down, it works well on grasses and some things but not as good on some other kinds of weeds. 24D is a common adjunct, that mix is generally pretty good. Dicamba is also a good adjunct but is particularly bad at vaporizing and spreading airborne so is not recommended for non-professional application. Agree that you don't want to leave it bare over the winter, get it seeded in your desired pasture grass or else some kind of cover crop. Yeah but they'll probably spray it with Grazon because that's what everybody does. Even the newer forms of Grazon still pass into the animal's manure and you can't use it on gardens. A lot of farm service folks don't even realize the bad effects of the residuals. They just parrot what the DOA hands down. OP I'm not saying you shouldn't ask. Sierra5 gives good advice here. But be aware that you need to question what they're saying. If they suggest something and you need help with the label on that or want to know the dirt on that chemical, holler. Your window is growing short, though. If you're going to use a specific broadleaf as a kicker with glyphosate, you've got to act now or you won't get to seed before it's too cold. |
Nobody ever wakes me at 2 in the morning telling me that my grass is out on the highway.~~Radiopat
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe
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Originally Posted By Lapidary: For food plots I use a mix of glyphosate and 2-4D. The 2-4D has a short residual time (2-3 weeks). Yes. This has been mentioned a few times. This is a good mix. You still won't get some tough weeds, but you can spot spray for those with a bigger, badder chem. |
Nobody ever wakes me at 2 in the morning telling me that my grass is out on the highway.~~Radiopat
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe
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Three acres? I would just shred the crap out of it the moment something green pops up. It worked well on getting rid of broom weed and wild mustard, the regular grasses take over the space. IIRC I shredded 6 times by May and it's ALL gone. I'm going to bale a halfway decent alfalfa crop by November as wet as this year has been. I try and keep the chemicals off my pastures as much as possible. It causes neuro problems in horses. |
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Originally Posted By John-in-austin: Three acres? I would just shred the crap out of it the moment something green pops up. It worked well on getting rid of broom weed and wild mustard, the regular grasses take over the space. IIRC I shredded 6 times by May and it's ALL gone. I'm going to bale a halfway decent alfalfa crop by November as wet as this year has been. I try and keep the chemicals off my pastures as much as possible. It causes neuro problems in horses. That's probably a better idea than any herbicide. If you bush hog it a couple times you'll kill off almost all the nasty stuff and you'll mostly just have fescue. Here's another effective "herbicide" for a lot of undesirable weeds. Fire. If it's possible and safe for you to burn it off you'll usually get rid of a lot of stuff. |
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Be mindful when tank mixing glyphosate (Roundup) with 2,4-D. There exists a slight antagonism with the two chemicals when tank mixed, making them slightly less effective than when mixed individually. Both are great herbicides, but it would work to your advantage to apply the glyphosate first and then come back a week or so later and hit it with a separate application of 2,4-D. https://www.dtnpf.com/agriculture/web/ag/crops/article/2020/01/16/happens-herbicides-get-along |
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Or really, if you want "pasture", why apply the glyphosate at all? It's mostly going to kill the grass, which is presumably what you'd want for a pasture. Just put 24D on it to kill off the undesirable stuff. You don't need a complete burn down if you want pasture. I guess if you are going to seed it in something specific... but you've probably run out of time to get a burn down and then plant and get a stand of something growing before winter. I'll reiterate this: Spray BEFORE bush hogging it, you need the foliage of the plant to be there to get sprayed. Spray and wait like 2 weeks, then mow what's left. Unless you're talking about sterilants or a few other specific things which you DO NOT want, spray doesn't work on dirt, it gets into the plant via the foliage of the plant. Those leaves need to be there to get sprayed. Do not mow if you're going to spray. You do not want ground residual action if you're trying to plant it with something to make pasture land, that's about the worst possible thing you'd want for a pasture. |
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