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Posted: 10/9/2024 10:53:38 AM EDT
what contraption are we supposed to use to crimp the wire to itself after passing through the hole on one side of this thing?
of do we tie a little knot at the end and hope it never slides through? |
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Posted: 10/9/2024 11:17:15 AM EDT
[#1]
I loop my tie rope through, add a couple half hitches and call it good. Worse case, I have to throw the line up again.
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Posted: 10/9/2024 11:24:27 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By lorazepam: I loop my tie rope through, add a couple half hitches and call it good. Worse case, I have to throw the line up again. not the rope that attached to the pulley on the tree, im talking about the other side of the dog bone, where the antenna wire attaches. |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 10/9/2024 11:34:14 AM EDT
[#3]
...a ferrule?
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Posted: 10/9/2024 11:58:32 AM EDT
[Last Edit: robmkivseries70]
[#4]
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Posted: 10/9/2024 2:52:24 PM EDT
[#5]
I probably do it wrong, but I just loop the wire through the dog bone, tune it, then secure with glue shrink tube and a zip tie or two.
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Posted: 10/9/2024 3:42:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Frank_B]
[#6]
For the wire, I use split bolt connectors. Available in many sizes from your local electrical supply distributor.
Easy to adjust when tuning. Once tuned, you can wrap the free end around antenna wire several times and save the connectors for the next time.  For the rope/line I tie a bowline knot. 
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Posted: 10/9/2024 4:07:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: aa777888-2]
[#7]
A clinch knot, like you would use on a fish hook, works spectacularly well and has a number of advantages:
- It requires no tools besides some lineman's pliers. - It requires no extra hardware. - It's biggest advantage is that it is not subject to any corrosion, fretting or any other kind of wear that can cause failures because no hardware is involved. The only disadvantage is that tying the knot takes a bit more time than swaging a ferrule on. All of my wire ends are connected to insulators this way and have been secure for many years. It's pretty easy to form the knot if you are using THHN. If you are using any copper-clad steel core it does take some effort, but it works perfectly fine for that stuff as well (and all of my antennas are now made from 13AWG copper-clad steel). If you want a bit more strength simply take an extra turn around the insulator before tying the knot.  Attached File |
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Posted: 10/9/2024 5:34:07 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By aa777888-2: A clinch knot, like you would use on a fish hook, works spectacularly well and has a number of advantages: - It requires no tools besides some lineman's pliers. - It requires no extra hardware. - It's biggest advantage is that it is not subject to any corrosion, fretting or any other kind of wear that can cause failures because no hardware is involved. The only disadvantage is that tying the knot takes a bit more time than swaging a ferrule on. All of my wire ends are connected to insulators this way and have been secure for many years. It's pretty easy to form the knot if you are using THHN. If you are using any copper-clad steel core it does take some effort, but it works perfectly fine for that stuff as well (and all of my antennas are not made from 13AWG copper-clad steel). If you want a bit more strength simply take an extra turn around the insulator before tying the knot. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/16697/Capture_JPG-3344877.JPG wow ok that one will take a bit of effort! thanks all |
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Posted: 10/9/2024 5:51:59 PM EDT
[#9]
All I ever have done is to run the wire through the eyelet in whatever insulator you are using and wrap it onto itself and finish by soldering it.
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Posted: 10/9/2024 7:11:14 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bophades: wow ok that one will take a bit of effort! thanks all Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bophades: Originally Posted By aa777888-2: A clinch knot, like you would use on a fish hook, works spectacularly well and has a number of advantages: - It requires no tools besides some lineman's pliers. - It requires no extra hardware. - It's biggest advantage is that it is not subject to any corrosion, fretting or any other kind of wear that can cause failures because no hardware is involved. The only disadvantage is that tying the knot takes a bit more time than swaging a ferrule on. All of my wire ends are connected to insulators this way and have been secure for many years. It's pretty easy to form the knot if you are using THHN. If you are using any copper-clad steel core it does take some effort, but it works perfectly fine for that stuff as well (and all of my antennas are not made from 13AWG copper-clad steel). If you want a bit more strength simply take an extra turn around the insulator before tying the knot. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/16697/Capture_JPG-3344877.JPG wow ok that one will take a bit of effort! thanks all It is actually very quick and easy to tie. One of the easiest and quickest too. |
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Posted: 10/9/2024 7:31:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: HogSniper]
[#11]
I buy them from local hardware store, but here is a link to the same type. I've been using these for years. The 1/16" size works perfect with #14 gauge antenna wire from DXE. They are lightweight, easy to adjust with a tiny nut-driver & best of all cheap.
 I use a bowline knot like Frank_B for everything antenna related. Stainless Steel Saddle Clamp |
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Posted: 10/9/2024 7:51:26 PM EDT
[#12]
I use 1/2 pvc drill drill 4 holes and run the wire through the holes then twist it
none have failed in 7 years |
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Posted: 10/9/2024 11:59:37 PM EDT
[#13]
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OH, USA
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Posted: 10/11/2024 8:07:50 AM EDT
[#14]
Dipoles and other multiband wire antennas in use here are all made from 12ga solid wire - Alpha Delta or clones thereof. (If I'm going to run very high power I replace their loading coils with sturdier homebrew versions.)
Pass the wire through the insulator, a few wraps on itself and done. Been running this type of setup since forever and have never had a conductor separate from its insulator - even in very high winds. |
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Posted: 10/11/2024 10:18:51 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AnalogKid: Dipoles and other multiband wire antennas in use here are all made from 12ga solid wire... |
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Posted: 10/11/2024 11:01:56 AM EDT
[#16]
The first antenna I built was a 10m dipole. I used 14 gauge solid wire and it has worked just fine. Solid wire is fine for a permanent installation.
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OH, USA
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Posted: 10/11/2024 4:41:49 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By aa777888-2: Interesting; most people use stranded wire for its flexibility. Why solid wire, and has it been rugged and reliable? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By aa777888-2: Originally Posted By AnalogKid: Dipoles and other multiband wire antennas in use here are all made from 12ga solid wire... Won't stretch as much, and if you keep kinks out it won't work harden. At one time I had three separate wire antennas of the same construction up in the air - an 80/40/15M loaded dipole and a couple loaded slopers for the SWBC bands. The SE facing one covered down to 120M and the SW one into the AMBCB. In April 2021 we took a direct hit from a supposed EF1 tornado, though I'm calling shenanigans and saying the cell which was producing it had transitioned to outflow dominant mode when it went through my area. Lots of things were damaged. The wire antennas simply shrugged it off. Now have a 160-10M inverted vee up in a tree and one for 60-30-17-12 using the same design principles is going into another tree in the front yard. When the towers finally go up I'll have 5 steerable SWBC slopers on one in a fan, and 5 for 160-30M in a fan on the other. Same construction WRT materials throughout. |
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Posted: 10/11/2024 11:35:10 PM EDT
[#18]
I loop it through the insulator, twist like a bread tie, and solder You can see it in the old pic from when lightning hit my G5RV top insulator  . . . the other one vaporized   cooked the balun also 
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Posted: 10/12/2024 2:55:34 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Colt653: I loop it through the insulator, twist like a bread tie, and solder You can see it in the old pic from when lightning hit my G5RV top insulator https://i.imgur.com/yE1zB3o.jpg What’d it do to the radio? . . . the other one vaporized https://i.imgur.com/zyMxBeo.jpg https://i.imgur.com/IuxwKHa.jpg cooked the balun also https://i.imgur.com/PIowb3a.jpg |
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Posted: 10/12/2024 10:13:56 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Colt653: I loop it through the insulator, twist like a bread tie, and solder You can see it in the old pic from when lightning hit my G5RV top insulator https://i.imgur.com/yE1zB3o.jpg . . . the other one vaporized https://i.imgur.com/zyMxBeo.jpg https://i.imgur.com/IuxwKHa.jpg cooked the balun also https://i.imgur.com/PIowb3a.jpg Whoa dude! Was the antenna connected to anything? Was there any lightnig protector at all in the circuit? |
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Posted: 10/12/2024 11:26:54 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Colt653]
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tyrex13:...What’d it do to the radio?.... @tyrex13 @Bophades My HF rig back then was a Kenwood TS480SAT, my VHF was a FT7800. The 7800 was on, and listening to the SKYWARN repeater. The TS480 was off, coax unplugged. Neither were damaged, but it destroyed network cards in 2 computers . I had no lightning suppressors, but did have a single point ground.( going to the house electrical ground by the meter ) |
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