Posted: 8/16/2026 10:42:23 AM EDT
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I have an old but sound 40x24 metal sided pole barn with a dirt floor [was a place for cattle in a previous time]. I've also just commissioned an Amish builder to erect a new equipment shed but he doesn't do the flooring [he will recommend someone to do it]. For the old shed, I'd like to put rock as a floor in it. my questions: what kind of rock? at what depth? any underlayment?, any prep? For the new shed, 2/3rds will be rock for equipment parking and 1/3rd [an end] will have concrete poured. my questions: what kind of rock? at what depth? any underlayment?, any prep? For the concrete portion: same questions. I'm going to need the general contractor for this portion so any guidance is welcome. Thanks |
| Crushed rock, 2 inches min 3'' is better, plastic sheeted under to mitigate ground moisture. This could be a good spot for crushed concrete but you'd need to take the time to use a magnet and remove any metal left in it. |
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| I worked in some large sheds up north in Canada and Alaska with crushed gravel floors that were great. I don't know the specs on the gravel, but it interlocked nicely and produced a stable surface. I'm not sure how they dealt with mud that got brought in on vehicles. |
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| I’d do 3/4 to 1 inch limestone rock. If you want a really solid base, put down 2 inch rock first and then top with 2 inches of 3/4 to 1 inch. |
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Originally Posted By Deuskid: I have an old but sound 40x24 metal sided pole barn with a dirt floor [was a place for cattle in a previous time]. I've also just commissioned an Amish builder to erect a new equipment shed but he doesn't do the flooring [he will recommend someone to do it]. For the old shed, I'd like to put rock as a floor in it. my questions: what kind of rock? at what depth? any underlayment?, any prep? For the new shed, 2/3rds will be rock for equipment parking and 1/3rd [an end] will have concrete poured. my questions: what kind of rock? at what depth? any underlayment?, any prep? For the concrete portion: same questions. I'm going to need the general contractor for this portion so any guidance is welcome. Thanks Once you have your new shed, what will you do with the old metal one? What's going in there, I mean? Any chance it will EVER be used for animals again? |
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Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe
| We use modified stone here for that, mix of 3/4 inch stone and fines that pack together and stay down and firm. Without the fines stone is just too loose, you'll make footprints and tire tracks in it. |
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I'm all for using 3" or 2" clean crushed limestone on a driveway, but it would suck to walk on in a barn. It would suck even more if you ever had to crawl around on the floor working on something (which hopefully you will be doing in your concrete shop instead). Also, if this is an old barn that had cattle in it for years, the existing ground should be pretty compact (unless you're parking something really heavy in it). I assume it's getting very little to zero moisture in it, assuming you don't have a bad drainage problem. Id use "road rock" AKA "1" minus", which is essentially everything from 1" down to powder. The stuff packs in super hard. |
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Originally Posted By VaultTec: My small barn has a gravel floor. Mud from vehicles pack down on top, making a mess. Also, it sucks working on something and then dropping a small fastener onto the floor. The one thing I did after working on gravel, even if using cardboard, was to make a supermagnet [actually a couple in a row snagged from old vehicle computer holders, those are awesome] on a stick. I just screwed a piece of steel onto a piece of wood, put it on an old broom handle, and then lined up the magnets in a row CAREFULLY. If it's metal, it'll snag anything within reason and it doesn't even have to touch it, just get by the magnets. |
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
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Originally Posted By VaultTec: My small barn has a gravel floor. Mud from vehicles pack down on top, making a mess. Also, it sucks working on something and then dropping a small fastener onto the floor. It's also extremely uncomfortable if you have to get under something to work on it, can't roll a creeper on gravel at all. |
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs: Once you have your new shed, what will you do with the old metal one? What's going in there, I mean? Any chance it will EVER be used for animals again? No animals during my lifetime. It'll be used for secondary pieces of equipment attachments and other big, bulky stuff I want out of the weather |
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Originally Posted By Deuskid: No animals during my lifetime. It'll be used for secondary pieces of equipment attachments and other big, bulky stuff I want out of the weather To be honest I almost like dirt better than gravel *if* it's super dry in there and *if* there's airflow etc etc. Like an old barn hall or shed, nothing will grow in there and it is EXTREMELY dry for bare ground but it's not gravel. Yours may not be old enough to keep the moisture from rusting stuff though, so in that case things would need to be elevated or you need a floor like you're thinking. I would probably want a mix of fine gravel and crusher fines that have been packed really well, but the guys who mention dirt on top of it are correct. You'll end up with a layer of crud on your floor that's not really cleanable. We have limestone quarries here. What you can get cheap and easily may not be the same as what other folks have at their AO. Edited: I should have said I don't like gravel because it hurts to crawl under stuff to work on it and you lose sockets, fasteners, etc. I work on gravel most of the time because that's what my driveway is. But if I had the choice I would rather not. |
Nobody ever wakes me at 2 in the morning telling me that my grass is out on the highway.~~Radiopat
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe
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Originally Posted By fxntime: The one thing I did after working on gravel, even if using cardboard, was to make a supermagnet [actually a couple in a row snagged from old vehicle computer holders, those are awesome] on a stick. I just screwed a piece of steel onto a piece of wood, put it on an old broom handle, and then lined up the magnets in a row CAREFULLY. If it's metal, it'll snag anything within reason and it doesn't even have to touch it, just get by the magnets. @fxntime snagged from old vehicle computer holders Tell me more about these magnets..... I need to make a 'broom' of magnets to clean up nails from an area that has a lot of old nails. I bought one on amazon but it is a weak, feeble Thanks |
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Originally Posted By Deuskid: @fxntime snagged from old vehicle computer holders Tell me more about these magnets..... I need to make a 'broom' of magnets to clean up nails from an area that has a lot of old nails. I bought one on amazon but it is a weak, feeble Thanks Originally Posted By Deuskid: Originally Posted By fxntime: The one thing I did after working on gravel, even if using cardboard, was to make a supermagnet [actually a couple in a row snagged from old vehicle computer holders, those are awesome] on a stick. I just screwed a piece of steel onto a piece of wood, put it on an old broom handle, and then lined up the magnets in a row CAREFULLY. If it's metal, it'll snag anything within reason and it doesn't even have to touch it, just get by the magnets. @fxntime snagged from old vehicle computer holders Tell me more about these magnets..... I need to make a 'broom' of magnets to clean up nails from an area that has a lot of old nails. I bought one on amazon but it is a weak, feeble Thanks These were old vehicle toughbook holders that were being tossed that used a round supermagnet to hold in place so it was easily removed. They are STRONG, like blood blister and bleeding strong if you are stupid with them. The already had a hole in them to screw to the cradle. If I had known how handy the magnets were, I'd have snagged every one. You can buy supermagnets on line, not cheap but not expensive either. Don't go overboard on strength and wear thin leather gloves if messing with them around steel or other supermagnets, they WILL move on their own fast if you are too close. Mine are about between a quarter and 50 cent piece in diameter and you almost need a screwdriver to pry them up to start lifting it off steel as your fingers will just slip off. You can buy a 25 lb rare earth one at home depot for 10-11 bucks and cheaper off amazon, it is MORE then plenty. THEY ARE NOT TOYS, buyer beware! 
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Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
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Originally Posted By Deuskid: I wonder why asphalt is never discussed for shed flooring? Seems it'd be cheaper than concrete, more convenient than gravel and protected from the elements for durability? Tough to get asphalt equipment inside a shed? |
"I would live this war one day at a time, and I promised myself that if I survived, I would find a small farm somewhere in the Pennsylvania countryside and spend the remainder of my life in quiet and peace.” - Richard Winters
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On the old barn, does it get water in it? i.e., is there good drainage around it to get water away from it? If so, what is your goal of doing anything to the dirt floor? I've got a dirt floor in my hay and equipment barn. Everything in it gets really dusty from wind whipping through under the sliding doors if it sets for very long, and that's not ideal. But, I can drive a nasty, muddy tractor in and not have mud all over a rocked floor, which is pretty nice. As far as the concrete in the other shop, I used a concrete guy that is very well respected in my area. I asked what he recommended for uses that would include as large of ag equipment that could fit in a 16' wide x 12' tall garage door. He thought 4" of concrete with rebar was sufficient. |
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Originally Posted By Deuskid: I wonder why asphalt is never discussed for shed flooring? Seems it'd be cheaper than concrete, more convenient than gravel and protected from the elements for durability? Asphalt requires maintenance and maybe that's not an issue but if you've got stuff in there and have to move it every so often to seal the asphalt, that seems like an awful task. Now I don't know much about asphalt, and maybe if it's under a cover it doesn't need as much but I *think* you're feeding moisture into it as you seal it which means dried out asphalt is basically gummy, tarry gravel. I'm guessing here and may be completely wrong. ETA: OP, you know what might be a good idea? Go into Team and title a thread "Asphalt experts I've got a question" And then ask. You'll get some BS but you'll get good information too. Not trying to send you out of our forum (please come back and keep updating your thread) but there is great value in knowing how to use Arfcom hive mind. Team is way better than GD cuz less BS but just sayin. |
Nobody ever wakes me at 2 in the morning telling me that my grass is out on the highway.~~Radiopat
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe
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In my steel building I used what we call "dirty screen". It's pretty much the fines and small to medium sized gravel/cinders. All I did is with each tractor scoop, I mixed in some lime to help it become a harder surface, then sprinkled more lime over it after it was all in place. Once done, I wet it down, then run a vibrating plate tamper over it. Worked really well. |
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Originally Posted By azjogol: In my steel building I used what we call "dirty screen". It's pretty much the fines and small to medium sized gravel/cinders. All I did is with each tractor scoop, I mixed in some lime to help it become a harder surface, then sprinkled more lime over it after it was all in place. Once done, I wet it down, then run a vibrating plate tamper over it. Worked really well. @azjogol That sounds like a great solution. I've heard of 'fines to 3/4'..... is that the same thing as "dirty screen"? Did you put in the floor yourself? You talked about adding lime to each tractor scoop, then more ontop after placed. Is there a term for this technique? Something I could use to talk to a contractor? Thanks |
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There isn't universal terms for crushed stone sizes. In PA the term was "2B modified" for dirty screen. Down in MD we called it "CR 6." I've also heard it called "State Highway #2." Its 3/4" and smaller down to sand. Uniform sizes won't pack down, it's like trying to tamp down a bag of marbles. Mixed size will tamp down as the fines fill in between the bigger stone. I'd have it tamped down with a plate compactor, then spread lime on top and water it in. |
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Originally Posted By Deuskid: @azjogol That sounds like a great solution. I've heard of 'fines to 3/4'..... is that the same thing as "dirty screen"? Did you put in the floor yourself? You talked about adding lime to each tractor scoop, then more ontop after placed. Is there a term for this technique? Something I could use to talk to a contractor? Thanks @Deuskid that sounds like the same material. I think terminology changes by region. All our quarry's are volcanic materials, except what gets brought in. I did do it myself, and it was a little labor intensive, but easy enough. I don't know that there's an actual term for the process, but if you'll be hiring a contractor, just explain the material you would like, and have lime added to make the floor more solid. Sorry I can't be more help, but hopefully this gets you a solid, inexpensive floor. |
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Originally Posted By azjogol: In my steel building I used what we call "dirty screen". It's pretty much the fines and small to medium sized gravel/cinders. All I did is with each tractor scoop, I mixed in some lime to help it become a harder surface, then sprinkled more lime over it after it was all in place. Once done, I wet it down, then run a vibrating plate tamper over it. Worked really well. That's a great approach! I know people do stuff like this for driveways but I've never done it. ETA: I wonder if all materials work the same with that process? We have limestone quarries here so most stuff is derivative of that in one way or another. |
Nobody ever wakes me at 2 in the morning telling me that my grass is out on the highway.~~Radiopat
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs: That's a great approach! I know people do stuff like this for driveways but I've never done it. ETA: I wonder if all materials work the same with that process? We have limestone quarries here so most stuff is derivative of that in one way or another. @Kitties-with-Sigs I would think so. I've also used this process to add a step into one of our greenhouses, but did add some Portland cement as well. Not sure I would do it for a driveway, especially my 350 foot driveway. Haha! |
RIP John Hobbs 5624
You will forever be missed my friend
You will forever be missed my friend