Quote History Originally Posted By Rob01:
I would ignore any chassis/stock/base mounted level. How I do it:
1. Set ring spacing and attach rings to base and use a piece of tape to mark proper eye relief on the scope tube to the rear ring.
2. Level rifle side to side with a level on scope base. Front to back doesn't matter as long as the scope won't slide in the rings.
3. Set scope in rings and set a level on top of elevation knob
4. Put rear ring cap on scope and just use two screws so when adjusting back and forth you can watch the level
5. Slowly torque those two screws down watching level
6. When tight then install the front ring completely and then go back to the rear and loosen the two screws and install it correctly
7. Now check reticle against a plumb bob and done.
Been doing it that way for many years and have shot out past a mile and in many matches and never an issue. I know everyone has different ways but that's mine and it works.
View Quote
Not that there is anything wrong with this method, but as an alternative, I have used machinist parallels like these:
Parallels[The parallels are only shown as an example - I have no idea if that branch is any good.]
between the scope and base - typically between the base and the flat machined area under the turrets. This negates the need for having a level and it keeps the scope from rotating when tightening. You have to have enough space between the scope and the rail to insert the parallel. When I don't have enough room for the parallel, I use feeler gauges stacked to make sure the scope is level with the rail.
After I have the scope mounted this way, I use a precision level to mount the level on the scope. I like Vortex levels. They do tend to rotate a bit when tightening so they are kind of a pain to mount.