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What thread is the front handguard screw? Also, how would a strap be as a hand stop? I am referring to the strap that Mossberg has on some of their forends. Just the nylon webbing loop. Though maybe, instead of being attached front and back, it could be a loop that is only attached at the rear, to aid in the forward pressure on the sling. Just a thought. Will it pass a jury smell test as a "sling" otherwise it could be considered a forward grip. Play the safe game and just go with a front and rear attached sling. AOW prosecution is rare, but it can cost you everything. The forward VERTICAL (albeit hinged) strap loop on a MAC 10/Ingrham/Cobray style pistol is not counted as an AOW FVG, ATF tech branch letters indeed have stated this is a "sling". So I think a horizontal Mossberg style loop of webbing would be even safer. Actually the Magpul AFG is not being counted as a VFG on AR15 pistols either. This is one area the ATF (at least the tech branch) seems to be very lenient on. |
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What thread is the front handguard screw? Also, how would a strap be as a hand stop? I am referring to the strap that Mossberg has on some of their forends. Just the nylon webbing loop. Though maybe, instead of being attached front and back, it could be a loop that is only attached at the rear, to aid in the forward pressure on the sling. Just a thought. Will it pass a jury smell test as a "sling" otherwise it could be considered a forward grip. Play the safe game and just go with a front and rear attached sling. AOW prosecution is rare, but it can cost you everything. The forward VERTICAL (albeit hinged) strap loop on a MAC 10/Ingrham/Cobray style pistol is not counted as an AOW FVG, ATF tech branch letters indeed have stated this is a "sling". So I think a horizontal Mossberg style loop of webbing would be even safer. Actually the Magpul AFG is not being counted as a VFG on AR15 pistols either. This is one area the ATF (at least the tech branch) seems to be very lenient on. Welcome. Yes I know about the AFG, and Mac sling loop. Those are letter specific exceptions. Better to get a letter and a specific description. Remember they are who they are. Do not ask the snake why it bit you. |
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Well here is how my 3rd trip to the range with the Mini went...... I had a few more FTF's and believe it or not the pile of a front hand guard screw broke off in the front sight base. This happened during firing and the hand guard literally came off the pistol in my hand and left me touching the barrel. I cannot believe how lame this hand guard screw is, the first 2 trips I had to re-tighten the screw after each mag. WTF does it take to get the damn screw to stay in I know I am not the only one having problems with this because I have read about others with the same problem. How ITF do they let these go out the door with such a non-existant way of keeping the hand guard in place This thing is going back to Century on Tuesday, this will be my first time dealing with their CS so I hope all goes well....I have a "C" and Non-C Draco of which both work just fine, but this Mini is making me start to re-think my purchase How many rounds, & how many FTFs (I'm assuming failure to feed??) ? Mind sharing what kind/brand of ammo? (Wolf, Uly white box, Yugo Surplus, Brown Bear, Golden Tiger, etc., FMJ, SP, HP and grain) Thanks. :) Sean |
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Well here is how my 3rd trip to the range with the Mini went...... I had a few more FTF's and believe it or not the pile of a front hand guard screw broke off in the front sight base. This happened during firing and the hand guard literally came off the pistol in my hand and left me touching the barrel. I cannot believe how lame this hand guard screw is, the first 2 trips I had to re-tighten the screw after each mag. WTF does it take to get the damn screw to stay in I know I am not the only one having problems with this because I have read about others with the same problem. How ITF do they let these go out the door with such a non-existant way of keeping the hand guard in place This thing is going back to Century on Tuesday, this will be my first time dealing with their CS so I hope all goes well....I have a "C" and Non-C Draco of which both work just fine, but this Mini is making me start to re-think my purchase How many rounds, & how many FTFs (I'm assuming failure to feed??) ? I have put around 250 through it with about 15 FTF's (Failure to feed). Mind sharing what kind/brand of ammo? (Wolf, Uly white box, Yugo Surplus, Brown Bear, Golden Tiger, etc., FMJ, SP, HP and grain) I have been using Wolf black box and Wolf Military Classic. Thanks. :) Sean |
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Yay, another screw page... So check it out, on the previous page of this thread I did that write-up re: putting the handguard mounting screw through the quadrail and today I was able to take it out again to test it. I had help, yum! Anyway, my screw through the bottom fix did NOT work, recoil drove the quadrail forward to the front sight again, the factory screw just bent. Lol. I'm going to add a little block in there or something, still brainstorming up a fix. http://s1134.photobucket.com/albums/m620/Xksld/photo-36.jpg Did you have any failures to feed this time around? Can we please get a round count and ammo type? Looking at your older photos with the left side charging handle....I assumed (root word ASS ) you welded the new charging handle onto the carrier. If you TIG'd it, I'd think you'd be able to easily weld a 'stop plate' to the bottom of the front sight block to keep your hand guard in place. Might be a workable solution (though I'm sure you've already thought of it). Thanks, Sean |
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Well here is how my 3rd trip to the range with the Mini went...... I had a few more FTF's and believe it or not the pile of a front hand guard screw broke off in the front sight base. This happened during firing and the hand guard literally came off the pistol in my hand and left me touching the barrel. I cannot believe how lame this hand guard screw is, the first 2 trips I had to re-tighten the screw after each mag. WTF does it take to get the damn screw to stay in I know I am not the only one having problems with this because I have read about others with the same problem. How ITF do they let these go out the door with such a non-existant way of keeping the hand guard in place This thing is going back to Century on Tuesday, this will be my first time dealing with their CS so I hope all goes well....I have a "C" and Non-C Draco of which both work just fine, but this Mini is making me start to re-think my purchase How many rounds, & how many FTFs (I'm assuming failure to feed??) ? I have put around 250 through it with about 15 FTF's (Failure to feed). Mind sharing what kind/brand of ammo? (Wolf, Uly white box, Yugo Surplus, Brown Bear, Golden Tiger, etc., FMJ, SP, HP and grain) I have been using Wolf black box and Wolf Military Classic. Thanks. :) Sean Thank you sir! That info helps a lot. I wish you the best of luck getting her fixed and returned. |
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Well here is how my 3rd trip to the range with the Mini went...... I had a few more FTF's and believe it or not the pile of a front hand guard screw broke off in the front sight base. This happened during firing and the hand guard literally came off the pistol in my hand and left me touching the barrel. I cannot believe how lame this hand guard screw is, the first 2 trips I had to re-tighten the screw after each mag. WTF does it take to get the damn screw to stay in I know I am not the only one having problems with this because I have read about others with the same problem. How ITF do they let these go out the door with such a non-existant way of keeping the hand guard in place This thing is going back to Century on Tuesday, this will be my first time dealing with their CS so I hope all goes well....I have a "C" and Non-C Draco of which both work just fine, but this Mini is making me start to re-think my purchase How many rounds, & how many FTFs (I'm assuming failure to feed??) ? I have put around 250 through it with about 15 FTF's (Failure to feed). Mind sharing what kind/brand of ammo? (Wolf, Uly white box, Yugo Surplus, Brown Bear, Golden Tiger, etc., FMJ, SP, HP and grain) I have been using Wolf black box and Wolf Military Classic. Thanks. :) Sean Thank you sir! That info helps a lot. I wish you the best of luck getting her fixed and returned. Thanks for the kind words, I hope dealing with Century will be on par with other dealers I have come into contact with. |
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Yay, another screw page... So check it out, on the previous page of this thread I did that write-up re: putting the handguard mounting screw through the quadrail and today I was able to take it out again to test it. I had help, yum! Anyway, my screw through the bottom fix did NOT work, recoil drove the quadrail forward to the front sight again, the factory screw just bent. Lol. I'm going to add a little block in there or something, still brainstorming up a fix. http://s1134.photobucket.com/albums/m620/Xksld/photo-36.jpg Tack weld a nut to the FSB to give the bolt more threads in contact. Hell you could use a larger diameter bolt to prevent bending. |
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Give it a couple of months and hopefully we will have some more fore-end/mount options too (Ultimak, US Palm, MI, etc).
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Yay, another screw page... So check it out, on the previous page of this thread I did that write-up re: putting the handguard mounting screw through the quadrail and today I was able to take it out again to test it. I had help, yum! Anyway, my screw through the bottom fix did NOT work, recoil drove the quadrail forward to the front sight again, the factory screw just bent. Lol. I'm going to add a little block in there or something, still brainstorming up a fix. http://s1134.photobucket.com/albums/m620/Xksld/photo-36.jpg Tack weld a nut to the FSB to give the bolt more threads in contact. Hell you could use a larger diameter bolt to prevent bending. Actually, that's a pretty good idea too.....drill and tap to a larger size with common fine SAE thread....then you could put on a lock washer as well, though you may need some sort of nutzert or helicoil in the aluminum rail you have. |
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Did you have any failures to feed this time around? Can we please get a round count and ammo type? Looking at your older photos with the left side charging handle....I assumed (root word ASS ) you welded the new charging handle onto the carrier. If you TIG'd it, I'd think you'd be able to easily weld a 'stop plate' to the bottom of the front sight block to keep your hand guard in place. Might be a workable solution (though I'm sure you've already thought of it). Thanks, Sean Hi Sean, This time I concentrated on holding it more stiffly, rounds were uly white box and the yugo corrosive primed ammo J&G has been selling by the case. Of the four or five mags expended, there were 3 failures to feed this time. I mig (GMAW) welded the charging handle, which I may alter from vertical to horizontal. I'd rather create a "bolt-on" fix for the handguard than a welded fix, that way anyone can copy it if it works. -Obsolete |
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Did you have any failures to feed this time around? Can we please get a round count and ammo type? Looking at your older photos with the left side charging handle....I assumed (root word ASS ) you welded the new charging handle onto the carrier. If you TIG'd it, I'd think you'd be able to easily weld a 'stop plate' to the bottom of the front sight block to keep your hand guard in place. Might be a workable solution (though I'm sure you've already thought of it). Thanks, Sean Hi Sean, This time I concentrated on holding it more stiffly, rounds were uly white box and the yugo corrosive primed ammo J&G has been selling by the case. Of the four or five mags expended, there were 3 failures to feed this time. I mig (GMAW) welded the charging handle, which I may alter from vertical to horizontal. I'd rather create a "bolt-on" fix for the handguard than a welded fix, that way anyone can copy it if it works. -Obsolete Cool. Thanks for the info. I have a Miller Vintage 250 Mig that I use for projects, but I find it a little big for my gun projects....but don't have money for a good TIG. I just ASSumed you were TIG'ing your gun stuff. Lord knows I've used my MIG a lot on my gun stuff too....(just used it yesterday to mod my AK safety to add a lever similar to the Krebs safety for underfolders). So, any ideas how to correct the failures you're experiencing or do you think you are going to have to send it back to Century? Sean |
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I've put a few hundred rounds down range now with no malfunctions at all. All Wolf Military Classic HP ammo and a variety of surplus metal mags.
I've seen some people theorize that holding the gun more stiffly will help. I'm using a sling and forward pressure so maybe that's it. However, I am really starting to think that a good initial cleaning will help a lot. My Mini had gobs of cosmoline all over the place and it was really gumming up the action. It was difficult to smoothly pull the charging handle back and let it fly forward. After I cleaned off the cosmoline and put some lube on the rails the bolt carrier was able to slide much much more freely on the rails. Another thing I'm wondering about is if the plastic block is moving out of place and stopping the bolt carrier short sometimes. It's not in there very securely and it's definitely the big weak point in this gun. I noticed that I have to slide my top cover forward around the block and then press down to get it to properly engage both the plastic block and the back of the recoil spring assembly. I've never had to do that with any other top cover on an AK. Overall I'm really happy with my purchase. The only thing I really want to change is the handguard. I'd love to see a micro-Galil style handguard for this gun. |
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http://timandevemcbride.com/images/work/mini_draco_sbr.jpg http://timandevemcbride.com/images/work/YHM_Mini_Draco.jpg SBR Done - Modified Midwest Industries 4 Rail system - Houge Grip - YHM Phantom Flash Hider / Slant Brake (Can't Decide Which I like Better) - ACE AR Folding Stock Adapter - Magpul MOE Stock - SIG Sauer Red Dot Tim how has your modified MI rail held up at the range? Forgive me if this is covered elsewhere, but does it move at all? It would seem that I could trim the front of the rail snug against the fsb so it would not move forward at all... Let us know. I plan to add a rail and want to know if I should try the MI. |
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Not one Draco mini at the Fort Worth show yesterday. :(
Sean, awesome welding and fabrication! |
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Not one Draco mini at the Fort Worth show yesterday. :( Sean, awesome welding and fabrication! Thanks.... :) I'm actually not surprised that these aren't showing up at gun shows much....I think J&G only got 100 and I only saw a few on gun broker....heck, those might have been bought from J&G for resale. Just doesn't seem like many dealers got these. Sean |
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Cars are my main hobby. While I haven't jumped in, most of my good friends have W2W race cars. Two of them have a fab and cage shop, so I have a small insight into the amount of skill it took to build that offroad buggy.
On the mini, I am afraid to pay $470 total for one (J&G + shipping + FFL) without at least knowing the front sight is straight. I am probably going to pay a bunch more for a local Krink pistol to SBR. Leaving to look at it in 10 minutes. The slightly longer gas system should mean no buffer thing holding up a more traditional folding rear stock although I have months to figure that out. I have the form 1 2/3 filled out while I hunt a suitable host gun. |
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+1, if I end up picking up a mini, I'll prob buy FTF and pay a little more just to to be sure. I already bought a full sized Draco via the net and feel lucky that it was matching s/n's and a straight front sight post.
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I agree on the canted sight thing and buying in person....however, without test firing, you can't be assured you're getting one that runs even if you buy it in a FTF transaction.....and that, IMO, seems to be a far greater issue with the minis than the canted sights. They seem to have a fair number of reported problems in even this small sample in terms of running 100% on any ammo.
My number one rule for firearms is that they need to go bang every time with the ammo I plan to feed them. I really want to buy a mini to build into a small, portable PDW SBR....but at this point, the buffer block and the reliability issues have me seriously thinking against it. Sucks, as it would make a really nice platform for a build like I want....but it is what it is. I need to go through all 11 pages of this thread and see how many owners are having them run 100% vs. those without that kind of reliability. If the buffer block is the source of the problems (or short stroking due to the combo of the block and too short of a bbl/gas system)....seems CAI screwed up in not testing it more thoroughly or not lengthening the bbl/piston the extra inch or so necessary to ensure reliable function as well as eliminating a proprietary buffer block. Sean |
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I agree on the canted sight thing and buying in person....however, without test firing, you can't be assured you're getting one that runs even if you buy it in a FTF transaction..... QFT |
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I've put a few hundred rounds down range now with no malfunctions at all. All Wolf Military Classic HP ammo and a variety of surplus metal mags. I've seen some people theorize that holding the gun more stiffly will help. I'm using a sling and forward pressure so maybe that's it. However, I am really starting to think that a good initial cleaning will help a lot. My Mini had gobs of cosmoline all over the place and it was really gumming up the action. It was difficult to smoothly pull the charging handle back and let it fly forward. After I cleaned off the cosmoline and put some lube on the rails the bolt carrier was able to slide much much more freely on the rails. Another thing I'm wondering about is if the plastic block is moving out of place and stopping the bolt carrier short sometimes. It's not in there very securely and it's definitely the big weak point in this gun. I noticed that I have to slide my top cover forward around the block and then press down to get it to properly engage both the plastic block and the back of the recoil spring assembly. I've never had to do that with any other top cover on an AK. Overall I'm really happy with my purchase. The only thing I really want to change is the handguard. I'd love to see a micro-Galil style handguard for this gun. I cleaned mine and then put grease on the rails and anywhere else that moves. Typically thats what I do for an AK, when I used to build themhad one that did run well at first and lube it up well for break in and that helped. |
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I called Century this morning to establish an RMA.
Easy folks to deal with but here is the kicker for me; after going through the whole phone process I asked the gal how they planned on sending the RMA tag to me (email, mail, fax) for return of the pistol and she said "none of the above sir." I then asked "what do you mean exactly?", she says "our records show this pistol was sold to a Vermont dealer and it was then sold to J&G by this dealer at a wholesale price then to you." She continues "this means if you did not purchase it from the original dealer we sold it to, then the owner returning the pistol will have to pay the return shipping costs to get it to us (Century)." At this point I am not overly butt hurt but on the flip side I think it's kinda lame to have to invest more money into a broke down pistol that I already paid for. IMHO overall overview is really unimpressive.... I know I could deal directly with J&G, but we all know dealing with the middle man on takes that much longer to complete the process. Definitely not a win/win for me. |
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I called Century this morning to establish an RMA. Easy folks to deal with but here is the kicker for me; after going through the whole phone process I asked the gal how they planned on sending the RMA tag to me (email, mail, fax) for return of the pistol and she said "none of the above sir." I then asked "what do you mean exactly?", she says "our records show this pistol was sold to a Vermont dealer and it was then sold to J&G by this dealer at a wholesale price then to you." She continues "this means if you did not purchase it from the original dealer we sold it to, then the owner returning the pistol will have to pay the return shipping costs to get it to us (Century)." At this point I am not overly butt hurt but on the flip side I think it's kinda lame to have to invest more money into a broke down pistol that I already paid for. IMHO overall overview is really unimpressive.... I know I could deal directly with J&G, but we all know dealing with the middle man on takes that much longer to complete the process. Definitely not a win/win for me. Good luck halflife and keep us posted as you get news/results. |
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I will for sure. I would be surprised if they didn't issue me a replacement. I cannot imagine them trying to put the time into figuring out why it's FTF and fixing the broke bolt in the FSB. I reported to them a cant in the rear sight which bothered me from day one but I was going to just chalk that up if it functioned fine, but obviously that is not the case.
BTW, it appears I have the same granite counters in my house as you |
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I called Century this morning to establish an RMA. Easy folks to deal with but here is the kicker for me; after going through the whole phone process I asked the gal how they planned on sending the RMA tag to me (email, mail, fax) for return of the pistol and she said "none of the above sir." I then asked "what do you mean exactly?", she says "our records show this pistol was sold to a Vermont dealer and it was then sold to J&G by this dealer at a wholesale price then to you." She continues "this means if you did not purchase it from the original dealer we sold it to, then the owner returning the pistol will have to pay the return shipping costs to get it to us (Century)." At this point I am not overly butt hurt but on the flip side I think it's kinda lame to have to invest more money into a broke down pistol that I already paid for. IMHO overall overview is really unimpressive.... I know I could deal directly with J&G, but we all know dealing with the middle man on takes that much longer to complete the process. Definitely not a win/win for me. How are you as a consumer supposed to know that dealer A sold it to dealer B before selling it to you? That is lame CS on Century's part, and adds a little to the hesitance to buy another Century gun (had an AMD65 with canted sights and painful kick-back trigger). |
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I called Century this morning to establish an RMA. Easy folks to deal with but here is the kicker for me; after going through the whole phone process I asked the gal how they planned on sending the RMA tag to me (email, mail, fax) for return of the pistol and she said "none of the above sir." I then asked "what do you mean exactly?", she says "our records show this pistol was sold to a Vermont dealer and it was then sold to J&G by this dealer at a wholesale price then to you." She continues "this means if you did not purchase it from the original dealer we sold it to, then the owner returning the pistol will have to pay the return shipping costs to get it to us (Century)." At this point I am not overly butt hurt but on the flip side I think it's kinda lame to have to invest more money into a broke down pistol that I already paid for. IMHO overall overview is really unimpressive.... I know I could deal directly with J&G, but we all know dealing with the middle man on takes that much longer to complete the process. Definitely not a win/win for me. How are you as a consumer supposed to know that dealer A sold it to dealer B before selling it to you? That is lame CS on Century's part, and adds a little to the hesitance to buy another Century gun (had an AMD65 with canted sights and painful kick-back trigger). I hear you, after being informed of this process I will not be buying any more Century products unless the dealer I am buying from can confirm they bought it straight from Century. That is the only way I can see to give yourself reassurance you won't have to spend more loot on a firearm that should already work properly. |
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I called Century this morning to establish an RMA. Easy folks to deal with but here is the kicker for me; after going through the whole phone process I asked the gal how they planned on sending the RMA tag to me (email, mail, fax) for return of the pistol and she said "none of the above sir." I then asked "what do you mean exactly?", she says "our records show this pistol was sold to a Vermont dealer and it was then sold to J&G by this dealer at a wholesale price then to you." She continues "this means if you did not purchase it from the original dealer we sold it to, then the owner returning the pistol will have to pay the return shipping costs to get it to us (Century)." At this point I am not overly butt hurt but on the flip side I think it's kinda lame to have to invest more money into a broke down pistol that I already paid for. IMHO overall overview is really unimpressive.... I know I could deal directly with J&G, but we all know dealing with the middle man on takes that much longer to complete the process. Definitely not a win/win for me. I guess all those "stay away from Century" stories I read have merit. What a joke. I don't think I'll be dealing with them if I can avoid it. |
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I decided to go another route here, I called J&G after establishing an RMA tag through Century and I spoke to their return department which is one guy named Andrew.
We spoke for about 30min and he told me they are out of Mini's so they can't give me a new one until Century receives more. Century said the same thing that they are 2-3 weeks out on getting more Minis. He told me they would give me a replacement when it becomes available or I can opt to pick something else they sell. I decided to go for something else since I am not overly thrilled with the fit/finish/function of the Mini. I am way more impressed with my "C" and Non-C. So, I went with a Romy Under Folder AK47. I have owned one before so I know what to expect. I requested one without canted sights and passes a function test. Andrew at J&G said he would check for canted sights, look at the overall fit/finish and do a function test. Overall I cannot ask for much more, unless the Romy Under Folder I receive is played out like my Mini was..... |
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This is not new. J&G bought 100 guns from Century & is sold out. Now they can wait 3 weeks until Century gets more, & lose sales for the next 3 weeks, or they can contact other dealers who have these guns in stock & for whatever reason aren't selling in their neck of the woods. So since J&G didn't get these guns from Century, Century doesn't send out call tags for them. Nothing new. If you want a car & your dealer doesn't have it, they can purchase the car you want from another dealer who has the car you want. It's called a "dealer trade" but many of the rebates are not allowed on that car because the dealer didn't get the car from the factory. They got it from another dealer. You trade away the ability to get the call tag, for the ability to get the gun w/o waiting 3 more weeks for it. GARY N4KVE
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This is not new. J&G bought 100 guns from Century & is sold out. Now they can wait 3 weeks until Century gets more, & lose sales for the next 3 weeks, or they can contact other dealers who have these guns in stock & for whatever reason aren't selling in their neck of the woods. So since J&G didn't get these guns from Century, Century doesn't send out call tags for them. Nothing new. If you want a car & your dealer doesn't have it, they can purchase the car you want from another dealer who has the car you want. It's called a "dealer trade" but many of the rebates are not allowed on that car because the dealer didn't get the car from the factory. They got it from another dealer. You trade away the ability to get the call tag, for the ability to get the gun w/o waiting 3 more weeks for it. GARY N4KVE I actually called Century back and Anne told me this regarding the call tag: She said "J&G did get the pistol straight from us, the call tag being supplied to the buyer only works if you bought your pistol from a local dealer, J&G is a distributor, not a dealer, and thus we don't cover RMA tags through these type of sales." She agreed it was a bad policy and I should contact Century to complain about it, not worth my time to go that far because one voice isn't gonna make them give a you know what. I know what you mean about dealer trades, but from what Anne is telling me it is strictly distributors who are not allowed to have RMA tags sent to customers from Century. Either the distributor deals with the customer in regards to what they have in inventory, of they send it back to Century as the middle man while you wait longer to get a new product. |
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No offense, but this actually happens quite a bit with a lot of firearms companies. Many companies have you pay for shipping to them....they pay shipping back for warranty issues. It's BS, but that's their "policy".
Now, I've noticed in dealing with CAI, that the best thing to do is complain. Remember this phrase, "That is unacceptable".....they have no comeback for it generally speaking. Be polite and professional but firm. I'll bet if you call/write twice, you'll get them to issue a call tag. Good luck with it.... |
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Nice countertop and mini. The countetop looks more like quartz than granite.
That's a load of BS, the way CAI is handling it. Just being SOP doesn't make it right, nor does it make me want to buy anything else from them. That's like Ford not honoring your warranty because you bought your car from a Ford dealer that got it from another Ford dealer. |
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For all those who have one. Can I get a pic of one without handguards next to a tape measure so I can tell the length of gap between the receiver and the gas block. I am plotting a handguard coup.
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No offense, but this actually happens quite a bit with a lot of firearms companies. Many companies have you pay for shipping to them....they pay shipping back for warranty issues. It's BS, but that's their "policy". Now, I've noticed in dealing with CAI, that the best thing to do is complain. Remember this phrase, "That is unacceptable".....they have no comeback for it generally speaking. Be polite and professional but firm. I'll bet if you call/write twice, you'll get them to issue a call tag. Good luck with it.... None taken, I didn't really feel like complaining because J&G ended up swapping out my pistol with a Romy AK 47 Under Folder. I have been wanting one for a while so there really is no love lost for the Mini. Getting around Century in the end was easy when we have stand up dealers like J&G. |
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For all those who have one. Can I get a pic of one without handguards next to a tape measure so I can tell the length of gap between the receiver and the gas block. I am plotting a handguard coup. I will when I get home tonight.... |
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No offense, but this actually happens quite a bit with a lot of firearms companies. Many companies have you pay for shipping to them....they pay shipping back for warranty issues. It's BS, but that's their "policy". Now, I've noticed in dealing with CAI, that the best thing to do is complain. Remember this phrase, "That is unacceptable".....they have no comeback for it generally speaking. Be polite and professional but firm. I'll bet if you call/write twice, you'll get them to issue a call tag. Good luck with it.... None taken, I didn't really feel like complaining because J&G ended up swapping out my pistol with a Romy AK 47 Under Folder. I have been wanting one for a while so there really is no love lost for the Mini. Getting around Century in the end was easy when we have stand up dealers like J&G. Ya, I'm tempted to go to J&G....hand pick a mini....and if it doesn't run (within the 30 day J&G warranty)....have them swap it for a regular Draco (assuming they aren't both backordered at that point like they are now). I'd really like to get a Mini that ran to make into a PDW/trunk gun....but if not, I really like my fullsize Draco. Sean |
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thank you... now I can think on things clearly
Uploaded with ImageShack.us here is my UTG package fix. i think it could work, and vent heat well. bottom barrel mount |
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would the fal wood stock like this be made to fit?http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq355/Ironhandjohn/mms_picture2.jpg
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