AK trigger problem > Troubleshooting

Posted: 9/4/2006 6:39:13 PM EDT

Hey guys, I recently got a WASR10 with the ?JP? trigger(the one that doesnt bit ;)

Anyways, its been giving me some trouble. Its been staying back when the wqeapon fires, so, gun goes off, blows back bolt, recocks and refeeds, but the trigger doesnt move back forward. I need to put my finger behind it and push it forward before I can shoot again.

Any ideas how to fixz this aside from buying a new trigger group?

Or should I just get a new and better trigger group? where from?

Thanks in advance.

Posted: 9/4/2006 6:48:41 PM EDT

[#1]

.

Posted: 9/4/2006 6:51:46 PM EDT

[#2]

Quoted:
Hey guys, I recently got a WASR10 with the ?JP? trigger(the one that doesnt bit ;)

Anyways, its been giving me some trouble. Its been staying back when the wqeapon fires, so, gun goes off, blows back bolt, recocks and refeeds, but the trigger doesnt move back forward. I need to put my finger behind it and push it forward before I can shoot again.

Any ideas how to fixz this aside from buying a new trigger group?

Or should I just get a new and better trigger group? where from?

Thanks in advance.

Sounds like the Hooks on the Coiled Hammer Spring came off your Trigger, Just use a pare of Needle Nose Pliers to put them back in place.

www.gunsnet.net/Linx310/fcgremoval3.htm
Scroll down to bottom of Page, you will see what i'm talking about.

RSA makes a nice Adjustable FCG, but a little on the $$ side. The Tapco G-2 FCG is good and cheaper.
www.redstararms.com/

Posted: 9/4/2006 7:45:35 PM EDT

[#3]

checked that, everything is lined up right. I cycled the gun with the cover off and did a slow-mo to re-create the issue and I think I found it...

Here is how the trigger group should look after being re-cocked after each shot.

Here is what its doing

It appears the trigger is sticking on the hammer when the two should seperate as seen in the top pic...

Any ideas how to fix it?

Posted: 9/4/2006 11:58:00 PM EDT

[#4]

I have never heard of a JP trigger in an AK rifle. Do you mean a TAPCO G2 fire control group?

G2 Fire Control Group Installation: why is this happening?

Please check your rifle for the following and do not use “live ammunition” until your firearm is functioning properly all of the time. Cycle the rifle without ammunition and check for all engagements.

Make sure that the Disconnector engages the Hammer when the Trigger is held back. Release the Trigger and make sure that it catches and engages the Hammer. Move the Safety up to the safe position and make sure that it properly engages the Trigger and will not allow the release of the Hammer when pulled (there should be virtually no movement of the trigger with the safety on). Now release the Safety and a gentle pull of the Trigger should release the Hammer. Do these steps several times to verify that all parts are installed and working properly.

“Why is this happening?”

Hammer not engaging
Disconnector not engaging
Appearance of “double firing”
Safety not working
Trigger will not go forward without manual assistance

What we have found are some simple things to overlook during installation that have caused these symptoms. These are things that are easy to do and will cause the above experience.

Hammer installed backwards (the hammer will go in backwards on most rifles; proper installation is required)

Hammer Spring legs are not resting properly on the back legs of the Trigger (make sure that each leg of the hammer spring, left & right, is hooked over the appropriate leg of the trigger)

Disconnector Spring damaged or missing (some surplus rifles have springs that are worn or bent; replacement required)

“No Fumble” trigger Sleeve not installed (this is the tube that comes with the G2 parts and assists you during assembly and gives proper spacing of the disconnector and trigger; installation is required. This part goes into the trigger hole and through the disconnector hole. This acts as a subassembly and contains all parts so that you can install the trigger pin after all parts are in the receiver.

Trying to install a “double hook trigger” in a receiver designed for “single hook”; look at your receiver where the trigger drops in, if there is only one slot on the left hand side at the front of the square opening, you should be using a single hook model.

Trigger Pin not seated completely. The hammer and trigger Pins must be seated completely and a retainer must be properly engaged with the groove of the pin.

“Single Hook” Trigger drags or hangs up on the front of the receiver opening. Lately, AK receivers have had a wide variety of tolerances on the trigger opening. Some manufacturers now have a larger opening, some have a radius in the front right corner, others have square cut out. Late model G2 Single Hook Triggers have been designed to accommodate all variances above. This was accomplished by removing material on the front right corner so that it would properly clear the varying openings of the receiver.

ak47.net/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=74&t=88947

Posted: 9/5/2006 8:01:43 AM EDT

[#5]

side of the box was marked JP. dunno if its a trigger group, i just know on the WASR it means you wont have trigger bite.

thanks, ill go through the related steps above and see what i can come up with!

Posted: 9/5/2006 12:52:10 PM EDT

[#6]

Did you buy it from a private individual? Here is JP's site.

Posted: 9/5/2006 4:18:10 PM EDT

[#7]

nope, store bought.

I think I may have figureed out the problem though...

The trigger pin is loose, I cant seem to make it stay any tighter though...

Posted: 9/5/2006 11:14:49 PM EDT

[#8]

Get an RSA retaining plate for the FCG.

Posted: 9/7/2006 2:20:42 PM EDT

[#9]

G2 FCG have a bushing/tube/spacer whatever that makes the trigger & the sear a one piece group instead of two and also takes out the slop. When I first assembled mine I left it out & figured oh well parts left over lets see that it can do. But it really helps especially because I was getting fire when I switched the safety from on to off after setting it and pulling the trigger. No more surprise discharges, tighter trigger, smoother pull.

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