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Posted: 12/23/2016 2:35:40 PM EDT
| Does a barrel have to be removed from receiver to have the muzzle threaded. Thanks for any feedback. |
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If you are just going to put a muzzle brake on then no but you will need to use a die starter like this from AK Builder.
http://ak-builder.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=30330 And threading die http://ak-builder.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=30253 But if you are ever planning using a suppressor it will need to be done professionally to assure perfect alignment. |
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As long as you have normal manual skills and pay attention, it's easy to do.
A LOT of people threaded AK muzzles back before we had more options. At one time several people on this forum rented threading kits, but I don't know if anyone still does. Most AK-47 muzzle attachments are for 14mm diameter barrels and are threaded 14.1mm LEFT HAND thread. Note that some older AK's had threads cut off to meet import regs, and the barrel will be too little to thread 14.1. Measure the exposed part of the barrel. It must be 14mm in diameter. You MUST have the correct tooling, which is a threading die in the correct thread size, which is usually 14x1mm Left Hand thread, a TAT (Thread Alignment Tool), a die handle, and a small can of tapping and threading fluid. Other items are a way to hold the barrel assembly, like a vise, and some aluminum foil. Kits are not cheap: http://www.cncwarrior.com/AK-47-14x1LH-Barrel-Threading-Kit-p/25145.htm Here's some videos on threading techniques. View several Youtube videos to catch more details some may not address. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1q9vZYl49yw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_2VeQ5owrs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqVD9XWmwvM Note that they mention "oil". Use a tapping and thread cutting fluid and use plenty of it, the cutting fluid makes the job much easier then any standard oil. You also want to put some on the TAT that fits down the bore to lubricate it. One trick is to use aluminum foil to make a large funnel wrapped around the barrel to catch the threading chips. FAIR WARNING: The threading chips are SHARP. They'll cut your feet and hands to ribbons, will embed in shoe soles and will absolutely cut a floors to bits, so try to catch them and sweep up immediately. Step on a chip with a bare foot or track a few embedded in a shoe onto a good floor and you'll be sorry. To finish the threading up to the front sight support. remove and reverse the die to the flat side faces the muzzle and use that side to take the threads all the way up against the front sight support. If you have a muzzle attachment spring and plunger in the front sight support you need to thread to the support. If your rifle has no spring and plunger, and no hole to install one, thread until the muzzle attachment will tighten up properly aligned and stop threading. You may have to come up with some method of preventing the muzzle attachment from vibrating loose. You can install a spring and plunger if the front sight has a hole, if you know what you're doing and have the tools you can drill the front sight support for a spring and plunger, or you can use some sort of washer to hold the muzzle attachment firmly in place. Make SURE not to allow any chips to fall into the barrel. If one gets caught by the TAT it can gouge the bore badly. Also if any fall into the action or gas system the rifle can be seriously damaged. That's why a good idea is to use foil to make a funnel wrapped around the barrel to catch the chips. When removing the die be careful of the chips to prevent them from falling into the barrel or action. One trick I used differs from the videos. When I threaded up to the TAT, I unscrewed the muzzle attachment and screwed the TAT farther into the die. That way I could keep the TAT in use for almost all the threading. This insured no cross threading or crooked threads which the TAT removed. |
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