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5/4/2009 12:31:46 AM EDT
First of all I'd like to say hello.  Been lurking here since I bought my WASR 10 not too long ago.  

Anyway so I've got the dreaded canted sight.  Its not too bad but I decided I want to fix it.  Been using the instructions here:

http://www.gunsnet.net/Linx310/fsbcantfix.htm

My FSB is a bit different from the one in the example.  The pins are above the barrel instead of below it.  I've managed to knock one out so far but need to get a friend of mine to come over to help me hold it still while I knock out the other one.  Doesnt seem like these pins do anything though.  Anyone know?  Do I need to knock both of these out before I attempt to rotate my FSB?  Pics below:

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/726/pict2164a.jpg

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/3730/pict2163a.jpg

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/2918/pict2162a.jpg

I may need to soak it in some break free.  Not sure yet.  My other question is about my slant brake.  There is a spring loaded pin that fits over it at the 12 oclock position.  Assuming I eventually get my FSB loose enough to move will that pin stop me?  Will I be able to turn the slant brake or is it usually welded?  Maybe I can tape that pin in so its flush with the front of the fsb so I can rotate it the few degrees I need counter clockwise.  This is my first foray into anything resembling gunsmith work, any advice will be greatly appreciated.
5/4/2009 1:12:12 AM EDT
[#1]
I don't see a weld on your slant break, so you should be able to depress the pin in the FSB and turn the brake off (LH thread, so righty loosey, lefty tighty, facing the bore opening).

WARNING! You must  control the brake detent pin in the front of the FSB when removing the forward most pin in the side of the FSB as it also holds the brake detent pin and it's spring in place. Drive that pin out w/o capturing the detent pin and spring and you will  lose them.  It's a bear to find and replace later, and w/o it, the brake will not remain in place properly.

Once the pins are out of the FSB, you will need a rubber, wood, or plastic mallet (I wouldn't suggest using a steel hammer unless you're real careful not to break or mar the FSB) to shift the position of the FSB to where it needs to be.

The rest is covered in the directions you're following.

Good luck!
5/4/2009 11:44:43 AM EDT
[#2]
Wow I'm glad I failed trying to drive that last pin out then!  Read the muzzle brake faq too and there were some good suggestions in there on securing that pin so it doesnt fly out.  

About those pins.  How do they actually even help secure the FSB to the barrel?  I mean they seem to just fill holes in the FSB.  Its not like they are threaded and pulling two pieces of metal together or anything.  Am I missing something?
5/4/2009 3:52:35 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
About those pins.  How do they actually even help secure the FSB to the barrel?  I mean they seem to just fill holes in the FSB.  Its not like they are threaded and pulling two pieces of metal together or anything.  Am I missing something?


The pin holes in the FSB are drilled while on the barrel journal, making a groove in the journal that the pins ride in when installed in the FSB/barrel assy. This creates a lock fit and prevents the FSB from moving in any direction once secured.

If the adjustment is minimal (as in my case), then you can drive the pins back in place, locking everything back up and you're done.

If the adjustment is more than a just a little tilt, then you will want to set up your drill press with an 1/8" high speed steel drill bit or reamer (I think that's the right size, if I recall correctly, please measure to be certain, don't take my word for it) and redrill the barrel journal so the pins will clear and secure the FSB w/o binding &/or returning the FSB to it's original position. Some folks will attempt to do this with a hand drill, and while it may work, I find a drill press is much more accurate.

If you in any way question your ability to accomplish this task correctly, get it to a qualified gunsmith or machinist and let them do it. It won't cost much and the peace of mind is priceless. It's better to pay a little money than run the risk of damaging a costly and hard to get rifle.


I am not a certified gunsmith, nor an expert of any kind, I am merely relating what I have done in the past with my own property in regard to an issue similar to what you described previously.
I will not be held responsible for any problem(s) you may encounter before, during, or after attempting to accomplish this procedure. If you try this, you do so at your own risk.
5/4/2009 4:54:41 PM EDT
[#4]
if you can find a smith that will do it, let them fix it...i tried to do it myself and could not get the fsb to move at all...
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