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Posted: 7/21/2022 9:13:14 PM EDT
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Greetings SKS Carbinites Got a Sino Soviet from the Classic bunch many years ago and just recently got the cosmoline off. Metal went fine but stock was so jacked up I made the mistake of (gasp) sanding it. Now I need a recipe to correctly as possible restore factory finish. I have found many formulas for Russkie red but none 4 chicom. Any help would be much appreciated. Comments to the effect "What a dumb ass"  are accepted (and deserved) but hopefully include a solution or link to such. TIA !! |
RIP Colin Flaherty / follow his work to C the truth
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What would you use to seal the wood? I agree if it was a 1980 Norinco but since this 0ne has some historical significance i wanted to try get back as close to original as possible. And then shoot the hell out of it. 
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RIP Colin Flaherty / follow his work to C the truth
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I would just give it a few coats of boiled linseed oil and call it good. Thats what I did. My surplus had so much grime in the stock that it needed a light sanding. Attached File |
Originally Posted By ar-jedi:
SO MUCH WIN IN ONE POST IT COULD CRASH ARFCOM !!!
SO MUCH WIN IN ONE POST IT COULD CRASH ARFCOM !!!
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Originally Posted By thederrick106: I would just give it a few coats of boiled linseed oil and call it good. Thats what I did. My surplus had so much grime in the stock that it needed a light sanding. I think thats what I used on one of my Sino Soviet that was really bad, since I already had it in my stash, came out real nice, I did run it through my dishwasher first, so...we all have our problems
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QC Doktor...soldier, scholar, funnyman, raconteur
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Originally Posted By QCMGR: I would use Tung oil. Originally Posted By QCMGR: Originally Posted By Burninammo: Thanks both you guys. Already have most the gunk off. Light sanding / tack cloth/ should be ready for the Linseed oil. I would use Tung oil. You can use Gunstock Wax as well to seal it and it really works good. |
WTB : KAC FF M4 RAS P/N 20208
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FWIW, there is no such thing as "Russian red". That's a BS internet misnomer from when people were mixing Tru-oil with RIT dye to try and replicate the "shimmer" that Russian Baltic birch with red glue, laminate stocks have when finished in shellac. It's a fuckin' commie, mass produced bullet launcher. It deserves none of the bougie recommended treatments listed in this thread.  Shellac. Zinzer makes an amber shellac that's identical to Chinese finish when dry. Home Depot, Lowes, shit, probably even Amazon should have it. It's easy, (why the commies use it), durable, (why the commies use it), and keeps out water, (why the commies use it). Good luck. |
Yes, I have Autohumorosis.
It's funny sometimes......
It's funny sometimes......
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Ditch the sandpaper. Get some TSP from a paint store or home store (real TSP , not replacement) mix up a handful with some hot water and detergent like simple Green or pinesol. Keep this away from metal bits but diuse the wood and scrub with nylon scrub brush and gently with fine steel wool. Rinse it with plenty of water and let it air dry for multiple days . If you want red or redish go back to paint store or Home store and get some Minwax stain. They have about 20 different colors , pick what looks best. Slop on a couple of coats rubbing with a rag after it soaks in a bit. If you don't like the results you can recoat it with a darker color. Wood pores will still be mostly open so if you get it so you like the looks go over it with Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) which will seal it up and give the stock a slicker somewhat wet look. If you want a slicker wetter look multiple coats of a tung oil product will shine it up . With any oil you choose rub it on with a rag , let it soak some and rub it down to smooth it out. Different products have different % of tung oil , read the bottle and stick with the smaller mor expensive choice which will have a higher %. These rags you use are part of the old wifes tale of oily rags starting fires , that is a very real thing , after every wipe down toss the rag out on the lawn or sidewalk and put a match to it. Sandpaper takes the life out of any hardwood , resist I believe some comblock rifles had shelack based finishes , can't say I ever messed with any of that |
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you start with "Amber" shelac , and then mix "Aniline" dye to get the desired hue , you can get aniline dye kits that have multiple colors so you may need to add multiple colors , some you may not think would work , second grade color finger paint class , red + yellow = orange lessons i went to the dollar store and bought some cheap tupperware tubs , it will be trial and error and you will have some fails so get some tubs , or start saving butter tubs , do not stir vigorously ,because you will introduce bubbles into your mixture and they will carry to your stock when you apply and dry like that , just take your time and gently stiur buy a couple nice brushes , cheap ones will "pull" out as you apply the shelac and you will be chasing your tail removingbthem and reworking areas and then leaving yet more bristles , so spend $10-$15 per brush and forego the headaches that the $2 ones will cause you get some test pieces of wood , i used maple , im a cabinet guy so i had plenty , but you can grab a birch pice ay Lowes and cut it into chnks and you have two sides to each chunk to play with i used dark walnut stain to add depth and contrast to contours , , and the vent holes in my stock , its a Lucky Shot that i had him send unfinished because i was doing alterations and i did not want to have to try and match his finish , or end up having to remove his , it was probably the smartest choice i made all that year and it actually cut his delivery time by 2/3 , it was at my door in one month , a previous finished stock was 3 months , i applied thge walnut stain lightly and then sanded to fade/taper or lighten  |
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