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Posted: 3/5/2013 2:30:48 PM EDT
| Has anybody cold blued an AK? I wonder how it went |
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I did the center section of this rifle. Its easy enough to do. It isn't going to be the most durable finish ever. I wouldn't do an entire rifle with it. I used it on this rifle because I wanted to match what was left of the original finish, and cold blue seemed like a decent option.
I found the paste products are easier to work with than the liquids. The liquids just want to bead up, so the finish ends up blotchy. The paste was easier to put on even.. I just used a small paintbrush I got from the school supplies aisle at target. Before... 
After... 
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A whole rifle? I have only touched up with cold blue. I can't get over the smell, and can't fathom bluing a rifle that way. I refrain from using it. This. If you are looking for a simple way to finish an entire rifle the Duracoat shake n spray system works well. Check out the H&K black, really nice color for an AK. |
| Never a whole rifle, small parts only.. I wouldn't be afraid to try it on a receiver though if the receiver's finish was screwed anyway. Nice thing about blued guns, brake parts cleaner doesn't destroy the finish like it will on some painted and teflon'ed finishes. |
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I checked about the shake and spray but i am afraid of the stuff melting on the barrel, and I don't have a spray gun for the duraheat. Last time I took a rifle to the gunsmith for re-bluing, it was not at all expensive, and nothing beats a professional bluing job by a good gunsmith, it's better than a factory-blued finish, just gorgeous. Or you could have it parked, good solid finish too. |
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The aesthetics of a good bluing job have as much to do with the metal prep (polishing) as the bluing process itself. That 5 miles deep bluing that looks so nice on higher end guns is the result of a lot of metal polishing prior to bluing. Yep, every finish of any kind is only as good as the prep, you just can't cut corners. I think full black park jobs look great on an AK. That's what i'd probably do if I had one that needed to be completely refinished. |
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If you do cold blue, you need to thoroughly degrease to steel and get the metal hot before you apply the bluing.
It has weird properties.... on the same piece of metal some areas will accept the cold blue in a deep and long-lasting coat, a spot right next to that will not want to take the bluing. |
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Quoted:
If you do cold blue, you need to thoroughly degrease to steel and get the metal hot before you apply the bluing. It has weird properties.... on the same piece of metal some areas will accept the cold blue in a deep and long-lasting coat, a spot right next to that will not want to take the bluing. Absolutely true. Also the formula of the particular cold blue used has a LOT to do with it. I've had excellent results using the G-96 and brownells Oxpho-blue creme. Another thing to be aware of is that the different brands will interact with each other in different ways, which with practice will give you the option to blend the finish to get the desired result. The larger the part the harder it becomes to get a uniform finish, not impossible just sometimes difficult. Touching up the finish on chinese AK over the years has taught me a few things. Just did a chinese Type 53 with cold blue to restore it. |
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I used Oxpho Blue creme to do a full receiver and FSB bluing on this custom-built Chinese spiker. I used 91% isoprophyl alcohol to degrease and clean the metal. Once cllean and oil free, alternated between coats of Oxpho and 0000 steel wool. I did 6-7 coats. http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd386/plikatok/Collection/Chinese%20Type%2056-1/3181e4d8-353e-46de-8a02-12a9ffd4cbd1_zpsf670ec6c.jpg http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd386/plikatok/Collection/Chinese%20Type%2056-1/009EB2EE-0803-4C32-BBB9-110B60B6A83C-23409-00000E55246132C5.jpg http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd386/plikatok/Collection/Chinese%20Type%2056-1/C599C474-A11C-4D24-B3B6-C7BAD46068F9-23409-00000E501B373193.jpg Looks great! Nice job! I would submit though, that brake parts cleaner is actually a superior de-greaser over alcohol, brake parts cleaner followed by hot water bath, and then it's ready for coating. |
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I used Oxpho Blue creme to do a full receiver and FSB bluing on this custom-built Chinese spiker. I used 91% isoprophyl alcohol to degrease and clean the metal. Once cllean and oil free, alternated between coats of Oxpho and 0000 steel wool. I did 6-7 coats. http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd386/plikatok/Collection/Chinese%20Type%2056-1/3181e4d8-353e-46de-8a02-12a9ffd4cbd1_zpsf670ec6c.jpg http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd386/plikatok/Collection/Chinese%20Type%2056-1/009EB2EE-0803-4C32-BBB9-110B60B6A83C-23409-00000E55246132C5.jpg http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd386/plikatok/Collection/Chinese%20Type%2056-1/C599C474-A11C-4D24-B3B6-C7BAD46068F9-23409-00000E501B373193.jpg Looks great! Nice job! I would submit though, that brake parts cleaner is actually a superior de-greaser over alcohol, brake parts cleaner followed by hot water bath, and then it's ready for coating. While brake cleaner is an excellent degreaser it does leave a small amount of residue behind that will screw with the blueing solution. If you want to use brake cleaner for an initial degreasing that's fine just make sure that you wipe it down a few times with the 91% alcohol aftrewards. I've tried both methods and wiping with alcohol and heating the parts provides for much better results. |
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While brake cleaner is an excellent degreaser it does leave a small amount of residue behind that will screw with the blueing solution. If you want to use brake cleaner for an initial degreasing that's fine just make sure that you wipe it down a few times with the 91% alcohol aftrewards. I've tried both methods and wiping with alcohol and heating the parts provides for much better results. That's why I said a hot water rinse after using the brake cleaner. I've tried it too, and brake parts cleaner provides superior de-greasing in every circumstance over alcohol (denatured or not), mineral spirits, or other de-greasing compounds. Just my experience, YMMV. |
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Quoted: I did the center section of this rifle. Its easy enough to do. It isn't going to be the most durable finish ever. I wouldn't do an entire rifle with it. I used it on this rifle because I wanted to match what was left of the original finish, and cold blue seemed like a decent option. I found the paste products are easier to work with than the liquids. The liquids just want to bead up, so the finish ends up blotchy. The paste was easier to put on even.. I just used a small paintbrush I got from the school supplies aisle at target. Before... http://i47.tinypic.com/2pyut84.jpg After... http://i50.tinypic.com/2igj6s4.jpg http://i45.tinypic.com/mi2gc6.jpg http://i46.tinypic.com/2cymtqu.jpg Don't stop. |
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