AK Sponsor
Posted: 8/28/2013 10:10:19 AM EDT
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I need to punch out the (4) "difficult" pins holding in the FSB and GB on an SA-93 rifle. I've decided to drop the Shop Press idea, and invest in a quality punch set, and try "again" to do it by hand. I just ordered a Starrett "steel" punch set and some Kroil penetrating oil for a pre-soak. The punch set wasn't cheap, but I'm tired of using cheap quality brass punches that bend and get distorted tips.
I seem to remember something about the pins being "directional", and that they should be punched out from left-to-right. Assuming you are shouldering the rifle, is this left-to-right direction correct? |
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All the AK pins I've seen were not directional.
However, the "most of the time usual" is that pins go in from the right and out to the left. The right side is as you'd sight with the rifle, ie, the side with the operating handle is the right side. Tricks to getting pins out are to use a "starter pin punch". This is nothing more than a punch cut off to about a 1/2" working length. The short length prevents flexing or bending of the punch, which dissipates the force. Another good tool to start the pins moving is a nail set. You need to have the barrel well braced in a no move-no bounce set up using wood blocks. Move the blocks under each barrel part to give full support. If anything moves or bounces when struck, the force is dissipated and the pins may deform and lock even tighter. Putting the setup on a concrete floor works far better then on a bouncy table or bench. Most AK pins will come out without a lot of effort unless they've been hammered on and deformed. AK pins are usually installed and the ends lightly riveted to keep them in place. The pins are not to hold the parts on the barrel, they're just insurance to make suer nothing can move under abusive combat conditions. |
buy a starter punch at sears. or grind one down from a broken punch. they taper down to a smaller diameter, no flexing, bending, or breaking. you can hit them pretty hard.
you can tell which way the pins were driven in, if you look at them. just drive them out the other way. I cannot recommend enough having a solid, massive backing. a piece of RR track, or an anvil, will do wonders. it also reduces parts damage and tool breakage. and use enough hammer. 24 oz minimum. I use a 3-pound blacksmith hammer. |
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