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Posted: 11/8/2006 5:35:18 PM EDT
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finally!!! well, not quite complete. but I just couldn't hold out any longer. It's a romy G, on a DCI receiver. Front furnature is off a WASR and matched the buttstock better. Thanks for all the help, I couldn't have done it without you guys. I still have anothre receiver so I'll be doing another when I find the funds, and the wife starts talking to me again...of course first thing she said when I showed it to her was "wow, is this one mine?"  Pics say it all, probably not the most beautiful out there. I used engine enamal paint  and I think it's crap. at first it look awsome but then it started to chip in places and scratched thru to the metal near the safety selector. I love the black matte look though. please please please critique it. I know everywhere that I messed up and I really want to know if you can tell. If you want more pics, let me know. I know my next will be better.    
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Not that my opinion matters much, but I think that the rifle looks great. As long as it performs reliably, that is all that maters. I think that the majority of the builds I see here are the battlefield pick -up type and if anyone wanted a safe queen they would build something else - an AR or a FAL or something. I think that that is the sheer genius of this rifle - it never was intended to be a handsome rifle, just one of the most rugged battle proven guns ever created. Just my 2 cents. Keep up the good work. Joe |
ETA: by the way, what I know I did wrong: The front rivet's were complety smashed up, My next one will be better and have nice little hemispheres  The paint on the barrel under the piston is smudgy and started to chip hopefully I can put a couple more coats on that and smooth it out... |
Opps! WOW good catch! I got too excited after the paint job that I just HAD to post pics before screwing it back on.and Socandyman, Yes, I have the 12 ton Harbor freight press, and if I'm guessing right, I saw your tutorial on pressing the rear rivets after I pressed mine, although I might still be able to clean em up using the same method... Krylon BBQ: that will go on my next. For this one I'' probably just wait until the paint peels off and it looks disrespectful, then I'll sand it down before I put the new coat on. |
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I think it looks really good, especially the wood. I would avoid any kind of common heat resistant paint at this point. Virtually all require heat curing and ones like engine enamel and BBQ paint have very poor abrasion resistance and claeaners like Shooter's Choice can soften them. You'll probably find that acetone will remove the present paint which is a good thing. You won't go wrong with Brownells AlumaHyde II spray on finish provided you get the old finish off and are patient enough to give it a week to cure. It's about the best NON heat resistant finish out there but will soften on a muzzle device and gas tube after you really heat them after rapid fire. For those small parts that can be easily prepped and are subject to heat, Duplicolor's ceramic paint is superb. Buy it directly from their web site for the best price. Brownells semi gloss AlumaHyde II gives a decent polished blue finish. The matte finish will look like a dark parkerized finish. A tip for blending the matte finish is to wait a day after painting, then blend the paint with a clean oily rag. HTH |
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Well, I finally got to the range. I bought the go / no-go headspace gages, and the no-go barely closed. I say barely because it did close, but I may have also forced it. couln't find a source for 7.62x39 field gauges, so off to the range to do a WECSOG field test. Well after 90 rounds it didn't blow up in my face. But I did notice a few things. First, there were a few (2-3) rounds where, after cycling, the hammer was still down  . you would squeeze the trigger and nothing would happen, but if you manually cycled it, there would be a round in the chamber. I also noticed that the hammer seems to rub "excessivly" on the bolt. so much so that I can leave the bolt open, resting on the hammer. IMHO, I think after a shot the carrier is traveling enough to eject a round and load a round, but not lock the hammer. I think the resistance from the hammer is too much  there was also one instance of a double shot burst, that I think may be related to this, but it could have also been an accidental bump fire. that was purdy cool Again, it's a Romy G with the Tapco G2 FCG in a DCI receiver. I saw a site that gave directions on how to polish the FCG, to make it run smoother, but I haven't done that yet. one other minor issue: When building it I would file open the magwell and used a mag to do a fit check. Well, now that is the only mag that fits it. My other two don't fit so I'll probably have to do some more filing... |
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I'll take dumbass newb kit builder mistakes for 100 Alex Alex: Question: It's that little spring you didn't install because you had no idea where it went. What's a disconnecter spring? I thought it was odd that I had this piece left over, but I just couldn't imagine where it would go.... now i know. |
Too funny!!! I like your attitude. Too many guys take this AK building stuff too seriously, but you have the right attitude. Great looking build. Now go build 8-10 more... |
that's a roger.  . I have another DCI receiver and after that I'll probably start messing around with flat's. Thanks Nails, other than this spring, the other big things I learned was: --real rivets aren't that hard to do. I cant imagine why people would opt for anything else. --Duracoat or Alumahyde is probably the best way to go. haven't done it yet, but after my next build i'll probably strip my other 2 ak's and duracoat them all at once. but the cheap spraypaint sure is an easy quickfix. --When in doubt, post a question to the AK forum BEFORE you break something
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The problem of the bolt carrier and hammer having too much friction is VERY common with the G2 trigger group and the Romy G3 kit. My G3 Romy build used a Ewbanks receiver. I also used a Ewbanks for an AMD pistol build that used the original FCG parts. The pistol is smooth as silk while the Romy/G2 fcg was too tight. I started by polishing all the contact surfaces but soon realized that was not enough. My eventual solution was to grind off, in very small increments, the portion of the hammer that rubs on the carrier and keeping things well lubed. You might try replacing the USA disconnecter with the original one (you'll need to add a US part like a magazine follower or just use a ProMag magazine which, by the way, is very easily modified to fit properly rather than filing on the receiver's mag well). If the doubling problem is gone, you know the US disconnecter and how it interacts with the already problematical G2 hammer is the cause. HTH |
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