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1/18/2009 9:53:18 PM EDT
Does anyone know of a glass bedding pictorial or instruction set?  I have a Russian with a very loose stock fit; have picked up a replacement and am interested in glass bedding it.

Thanks

Ken
1/21/2009 3:57:16 PM EDT
[#1]
There are lots of instructional books and videos covering this topic. You may be the first person to apply this technique to a SKS. Because of all the nooks and crannys inside a SKS you will probably end up gluing the action into the stock permanently.  

Buying a replacement stock may be cheaper and simplier considering the amount of time you will spend.

Remember this, everything steel must be covered with several coats of wax or some other releasing agent or you'll never get the thing apart. Every nook and cranny must be filled with modelling clay or taped off or it will fill with Devcon and make it impossible to disassemble.

It will most certainly remove any gaps. It may not be the end of the world if you can't take it apart. Whatever you do, make double sure that no Devcon gets somewhere that will cause you functioning problems.
1/21/2009 4:38:31 PM EDT
[#2]
My stock was real tight when I first bought it.  I removed wood from under the barrel untill it was slightly loose.  Then I filled every place I did not want glassed with tape and clay.  Roughed up the wood where the glass was going and waxed the metal with wood furniture paste wax.  Wax the outside of the stock in case you get glassing on it - it will peel off afterward.  Don't forget to make a clay dam at the front of the receiver or the glass will run out = big mess.  I did not even think about attempting to bed anything but the barrel otherwise it may become permanent due to the action needing to tilt to come apart.

I used the slow setting JB weld (poor man's glassing).  You need to use the slow setting JB weld so it will "smush" out of the way and not result in a binded barrel.  If you use the fast setting, it may start to set before you get it back together.  Put the barreled action in the stock with the trigger assy.  Set it up so the barrel's muzzel and the rear of the stock only is supported.  After you are sure it's all level and the JB weld is not running out, walk away and try to forget about it for 24 hours.

Remove the trigger group and after a few good wacks she should come appart.  Use a sharp knife and carefully clean up the extra JB weld and dig out the clay and / or tape.

This is what I did, it now fits like a glove.  No movement, and no tension on the barrel when it's put together.

It shot 3" groups before bedding and now it shoots 3" groups.
Did not make any difference down range but it feels better in my hands.
1/22/2009 10:49:40 PM EDT
[#3]
As mentioned, it will be cheaper (and quicker) to simply buy a replacement stock.

If you are interested in obtaining more practical accuracy:

1. Shoot quality ammo like Prvi Partizan, or Laupa.
2. Add a Tech-Sights Front Sight Post
3. Get a Trigger Job by Kivaari

The SKS is not a tack-diver. It was designed to shoot Minute of Imperial Capitalist. If you want real accuracy, the SKS is not the weapon for you.
2/1/2009 9:28:44 PM EDT
[#4]
You might try shimming first, before the trouble and altering of the rifle by glass bedding if the original stock is used. Also, the locking lug surfaces at the side of the receiver would have to be excluded from the glassed area. This could be a challenge unless you're experienced at this.

I've found that simple shimming is highly effective with the original stocks, which i prefer (with a 1" extension). You shim with plastic strips at the rear of the opening in the stock for the rear receiver lug to fit into when the action is pivoted into the stock. Use plastic thinner than "credit card" thickness which is .017 or so...I used an old "oil change coupon card", very thin and pliable. Place the first layer over the entire height of the rear of the opening. I secured it with just a drop of two of super glue....not much! and it can be simply pulled off when needed.. The second layer is applied an inch or some similar interval "up" from the bottom. A third layer,if needed, is applied an inch or so above the bottom edge of the second layer. You've now made the shim thicker at the top where it's needed as the stock is clearanced more there for the receiver to pivot into the stock. Just a touch of grease on the face of the top shim allows the receiver to pivot into place and literally, "pop", as the front lug of the receiver gains purchase on the cross bolt. It's very tight and solid this way....

I fired this target prone on a shooting mat using a '51 Tula, factory sights, shimmed stock, USGI web sling adapted for loop, my trigger work, 1 magazine of evil Cheetah ammunition from Zimbabwee, at 100 yards in a rapid "rifleman's cadence". I think this is representative of what you can do... Now the last two rounds I can't explain so my excuse is the buttstock was slipping down (prior to buttstock extension), a fly landed on my nose, or the guy next to me had a 300 Weatherby...can't remember

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL20/575043/867885/304940902.jpg

Good luck and safe shooing...

Kivaari
[email protected]
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