Warning

 

Close
Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Cancel Confirm
AR15.COM
AK Sponsor
3/10/2007 6:35:40 PM EDT
I was wired, distracted (plus I think it's time for stronger eye glasses) and just sanded WAY too much off the sides of the block on a KVAR buttstock that was to fit a Chicom receiver...now it's loose as a goose. Can I fatten the block with JB or write off the buttstock...$54 lesson learned. Damn, I knew I shouldn't be messing with it tonite.
3/10/2007 6:42:04 PM EDT
[#1]
Try the JB, if it does not work or looks like poop, what have you lost?
3/10/2007 6:45:43 PM EDT
[#2]
I would give it a shot.  JB weld is just a type of epoxy.

Good luck
3/10/2007 6:45:53 PM EDT
[#3]
I'd try gorilla glue.... take a razor blade and use it to smooth out a thin layer of the glue on the area that needs built up.  It'll rise up when cured.  After it's cured, do the same thing to the other side and then sand down till it fits.  
3/10/2007 7:05:54 PM EDT
[#4]
I'll try both methods....recently picked up some gorilla glue....killer stuff on wood, I'll see about plastic compatibility. Thanks guys.
3/10/2007 8:43:08 PM EDT
[#5]
Auto body filler bonds and shapes real well on wood.
3/10/2007 10:14:10 PM EDT
[#6]
Sorry if I misled...buttstock is a type of plastic, but auto body filler might work on it too....I think it works on fiberglass.
3/11/2007 3:44:22 AM EDT
[#7]
Body filler is a Plastic filler in reality. You could then Molyresin it with the air dry Norrell

You do need to get adheasion though so the surface needs to be scuffed.
3/11/2007 1:52:04 PM EDT
[#8]
Even though it is plastic...  give this a try:

Take some 3/4" Oak Trim tape (get at a hardware store - it's usually used to "band" the edges of Oak Ply when you build furniture).  Cut a chunk for each side, iron on, NOW try your fit :)  Bet you'll need to sand it just a bit :)  This won't show on the interior.
3/11/2007 3:04:45 PM EDT
[#9]
Gorilla glue should work, just rough it up a bit first if not already.

Oooo Gorilla tape!
3/11/2007 7:23:16 PM EDT
[#10]
I use automotive bondo on my M14 synthetic stock and it bonds fine..same with jb weld..just amke sure surface is clean and unpainted..then use.
3/11/2007 8:16:09 PM EDT
[#11]

Quoted:
I use automotive bondo on my M14 synthetic stock and it bonds fine..same with jb weld..just amke sure surface is clean and unpainted..then use.


I would be extremely careful how THICK you make it. Bondo is not designed to be gobbed on to any surface.

Any thicker than a 1/8" and most likely it will just break-off with time.

I would just toss the stock and buy a new one.
3/11/2007 9:33:32 PM EDT
[#12]
Ace hardware brand Epoxy for Plastic. Don't buy the Lock-Tite brand, it does not bond to well.  The Ace brand will make a permanint bond, then you can sand it to fit again.
3/11/2007 9:39:14 PM EDT
[#13]
Ouch. I hope I don't have to toss it...but that might be the eventual reality. I emailed K-VAR about it so might hear from them (probably say it can't be fixed and should order a new one). I'll experiment on it this week and post my results. Thanks all for your help.
3/12/2007 6:14:19 AM EDT
[#14]
You could try some acraglass from Brownells.com
3/12/2007 7:23:44 AM EDT
[#15]
Man, I would just lop on some cheap epoxy and file it smooth.

It's not rocket science, and if you mess it up somehow, you're not out anything.
3/12/2007 4:08:54 PM EDT
[#16]
Should have been clearer get the fiberglass bondo for boats..my M14 stock is fiberglass..it gets used in tactical classes and gets banged around..bondo still holding after 4 years.You buy that and thae hardner seperate..vehicle bondo shatters when hit but on plastic it or fiberglass it works excellent.
3/12/2007 8:23:16 PM EDT
[#17]
Tho it aint rocket science, sometimes there's a better way and I'm not familiar with plastics and their different types.
I went ahead with the old JB method.  Drilled several holes with a fine bit on each side for a good bond, made a form with painters blue tape and poured to an acceptable level. Looks clean and tight. I'll save the good suggestions for future fixes. Thanks again.  
3/12/2007 8:45:05 PM EDT
[#18]

Quoted:
Drilled several holes with a fine bit on each side for a good bond,


Good idea
3/13/2007 4:58:18 PM EDT
[#19]
Poured? JB Weld is not a liquid. What the hell did you do?
3/13/2007 6:41:56 PM EDT
[#20]
JB WELD Cold weld. It was like a very THICK syrup after mixing equal parts and it was a consistancy that poured (real slow), not like water, but it was a THICK liquid form. Maybe I should have said 'controlled dribble'? Whatever...it worked.  
3/13/2007 11:24:33 PM EDT
[#21]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Drilled several holes with a fine bit on each side for a good bond,


Good idea


Also drilling the holes at different angles instead of straight down should help hold it better. Rough up the surface also to help bond the epoxy. You could also add a few screws to the stock and grind them down until it just fits the receiver. Then drill your holes and add the epoxy. Good luck.
3/17/2007 7:51:17 PM EDT
[#22]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Quoted:
Drilled several holes with a fine bit on each side for a good bond,


Good idea


Also drilling the holes at different angles instead of straight down should help hold it better. Rough up the surface also to help bond the epoxy. You could also add a few screws to the stock and grind them down until it just fits the receiver. Then drill your holes and add the epoxy. Good luck.
             __________________________________________
It's done and looks/works great. If I have to do it again sometime I'll definately include the screws and angled holes idea....that's excellent.
AK Sponsor