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Posted: 10/26/2013 12:54:00 PM EDT
So how corrosive is it? I just got back from the range where I ran a bunch of 7n6 surplus through my new SGL31-95. I've already field stripped the gun and washed with water all of the parts (including the barrel and receiver portion) in the kitchen sink.
I'm waiting for the gun to dry off good and then I'm going to begin my normal cleaning routine with CLP. I'm still paranoid that I'm going to check my gun in a few days and it's going to be a rust heap. Just how bad are the corrosive salts come out of the 7n6 surplus? |
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I've seen guns rust shut, but these never get cleaned. You'll be fine.
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The corrosive affects are over-hyped. If you hadn't cleaned it you'd probably just see a little bit of surface rust forming.
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So how corrosive is it? I just got back from the range where I ran a bunch of 7n6 surplus through my new SGL31-95. I've already field stripped the gun and washed with water all of the parts (including the barrel and receiver portion) in the kitchen sink. I'm waiting for the gun to dry off good and then I'm going to begin my normal cleaning routine with CLP. I'm still paranoid that I'm going to check my gun in a few days and it's going to be a rust heap. Just how bad are the corrosive salts come out of the 7n6 surplus? View Quote Sounds like you're off to a good start. You probably already did it but I do recommend you take the brake off and rinse it under the threads. Some folks new to corrosive let that one slip..... |
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Check you bolt face in a couple days. That's where I saw rust show up even after a good cleaning.
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Oh, they're corrosive alright, but as long as you keep a good cleaning and oiling, you'll be fine.
Me, I went extra full retard in my paranoia with that round that I got the gas tube in my AR coated in melonite, had the barrel lined with nitride, the barrel extension, every part of the BCG, and the hammer in NB. I took no short cuts in my full retardedness. |
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It's pretty bad. This is my AK after a single range trip http://zenphotos.net/zenphotos/file/Online/MISC/RustedAK.jpg And my cars didn't do well with 7N6 corrosive residue either http://zenphotos.net/zenphotos/file/Online/MISC/rusted-cars-oradour.jpg http://zenphotos.net/zenphotos/file/Online/MISC/RustedCar.jpg I drove by the marina and this happened http://zenphotos.net/zenphotos/file/Online/MISC/RustedSub.jpg Be careful with that stuff Z View Quote |
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It's fine, ALL you need to do is rinse with water after shooting. I don't clean after shooting it.
My experience with a 5.45 AR |
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I do recommend you take the brake off and rinse it under the threads. Some folks new to corrosive let that one slip..... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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So how corrosive is it? I just got back from the range where I ran a bunch of 7n6 surplus through my new SGL31-95. I've already field stripped the gun and washed with water all of the parts (including the barrel and receiver portion) in the kitchen sink. I'm waiting for the gun to dry off good and then I'm going to begin my normal cleaning routine with CLP. I'm still paranoid that I'm going to check my gun in a few days and it's going to be a rust heap. Just how bad are the corrosive salts come out of the 7n6 surplus? I do recommend you take the brake off and rinse it under the threads. Some folks new to corrosive let that one slip..... Yes, I found out the hard way on this one. After trying everything possible,I had to have a gunsmith remove the brake. Early on, I would disassemble the rifle and spray the parts with a solution of 75% water and 25% ammonia, but I later found that to be way over-kill. Now after shooting mil surplus ammo, I just disassemble the rifle (including the brake) and rinse the parts and inner rifle with warm water, then lube. No rust whatsoever anywhere after many range trips. |
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Sounds like you're off to a good start. You probably already did it but I do recommend you take the brake off and rinse it under the threads. Some folks new to corrosive let that one slip..... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Just how bad are the corrosive salts come out of the 7n6 surplus? Sounds like you're off to a good start. You probably already did it but I do recommend you take the brake off and rinse it under the threads. Some folks new to corrosive let that one slip..... What if your rifle has a pinned and welded brake? Not new to corrosive, but new to shooting corrosive ammo in a rifle with pinned and welded muzzle brake. Is there anything I can put in there to protect or seal the threads if I can't remove it? Thinking of some high temp motor oil to soak in the threads... |
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I have nearly no issues with corrosive ammo here in AZ and often clean m 74's a day or 2 after shooting but if I was in NC I would be far more concerned and on top of it due to the humidity
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I use CLP liberally and have no problems, I don't soak with water, still no rust on my Krink after 1080 rounds of it
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What if your rifle has a pinned and welded brake? Not new to corrosive, but new to shooting corrosive ammo in a rifle with pinned and welded muzzle brake. Is there anything I can put in there to protect or seal the threads if I can't remove it? Thinking of some high temp motor oil to soak in the threads... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Just how bad are the corrosive salts come out of the 7n6 surplus? Sounds like you're off to a good start. You probably already did it but I do recommend you take the brake off and rinse it under the threads. Some folks new to corrosive let that one slip..... What if your rifle has a pinned and welded brake? Not new to corrosive, but new to shooting corrosive ammo in a rifle with pinned and welded muzzle brake. Is there anything I can put in there to protect or seal the threads if I can't remove it? Thinking of some high temp motor oil to soak in the threads... I just wouldn't shoot corrosive ammo in a rifle with a pinned brake. It may be okay for a while if you dunk it in boiling water or something but the salts will eventually migrate into the threads and there will be problems. |
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I just wouldn't shoot corrosive ammo in a rifle with a pinned brake. It may be okay for a while if you dunk it in boiling water or something but the salts will eventually migrate into the threads and there will be problems. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Just how bad are the corrosive salts come out of the 7n6 surplus? Sounds like you're off to a good start. You probably already did it but I do recommend you take the brake off and rinse it under the threads. Some folks new to corrosive let that one slip..... What if your rifle has a pinned and welded brake? Not new to corrosive, but new to shooting corrosive ammo in a rifle with pinned and welded muzzle brake. Is there anything I can put in there to protect or seal the threads if I can't remove it? Thinking of some high temp motor oil to soak in the threads... I just wouldn't shoot corrosive ammo in a rifle with a pinned brake. It may be okay for a while if you dunk it in boiling water or something but the salts will eventually migrate into the threads and there will be problems. My 5.45 AR is pinned and welded to, a 14.5. Fuck... Wolf and Golden Tiger isn't corrosive, I hear |
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So how corrosive is it? I just got back from the range where I ran a bunch of 7n6 surplus through my new SGL31-95. I've already field stripped the gun and washed with water all of the parts (including the barrel and receiver portion) in the kitchen sink. I'm waiting for the gun to dry off good and then I'm going to begin my normal cleaning routine with CLP. I'm still paranoid that I'm going to check my gun in a few days and it's going to be a rust heap. Just how bad are the corrosive salts come out of the 7n6 surplus? View Quote You should be good to go just check it in case there was a place the water didn't hit. People freak out way too much over corrosive ammo. All you need to do is flush with plain water then clean and lube as usual. Water that is boiling or near boiling can be used as well. The benefit to the hot water is it evaporates almost instantly and you don't need to use compressed air to blow your rifle dry. Here's something to remember when buying ammo. It's either corrosive or non-corrosive. There is no such thing as mildly corrosive and that's a fact. |
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My 5.45 AR is pinned and welded to, a 14.5. Fuck... Wolf and Golden Tiger isn't corrosive, I hear View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Just how bad are the corrosive salts come out of the 7n6 surplus? Sounds like you're off to a good start. You probably already did it but I do recommend you take the brake off and rinse it under the threads. Some folks new to corrosive let that one slip..... What if your rifle has a pinned and welded brake? Not new to corrosive, but new to shooting corrosive ammo in a rifle with pinned and welded muzzle brake. Is there anything I can put in there to protect or seal the threads if I can't remove it? Thinking of some high temp motor oil to soak in the threads... I just wouldn't shoot corrosive ammo in a rifle with a pinned brake. It may be okay for a while if you dunk it in boiling water or something but the salts will eventually migrate into the threads and there will be problems. My 5.45 AR is pinned and welded to, a 14.5. Fuck... Wolf and Golden Tiger isn't corrosive, I hear Uploaded with ImageShack.com Mine aren't pinned but I don't remove the muzzle device each time either on the ARs. AR threads are a lot more 'sealed' (for lack of a better word) than AKs. I do dun mine in some hot water after shooting each time though. |
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No problems with corrosive ammo and my muzzle threads on my AR.
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You should be good to go just check it in case there was a place the water didn't hit. People freak out way too much over corrosive ammo. All you need to do is flush with plain water then clean and lube as usual. Water that is boiling or near boiling can be used as well. The benefit to the hot water is it evaporates almost instantly and you don't need to use compressed air to blow your rifle dry. Here's something to remember when buying ammo. It's either corrosive or non-corrosive. There is no such thing as mildly corrosive and that's a fact. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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So how corrosive is it? I just got back from the range where I ran a bunch of 7n6 surplus through my new SGL31-95. I've already field stripped the gun and washed with water all of the parts (including the barrel and receiver portion) in the kitchen sink. I'm waiting for the gun to dry off good and then I'm going to begin my normal cleaning routine with CLP. I'm still paranoid that I'm going to check my gun in a few days and it's going to be a rust heap. Just how bad are the corrosive salts come out of the 7n6 surplus? You should be good to go just check it in case there was a place the water didn't hit. People freak out way too much over corrosive ammo. All you need to do is flush with plain water then clean and lube as usual. Water that is boiling or near boiling can be used as well. The benefit to the hot water is it evaporates almost instantly and you don't need to use compressed air to blow your rifle dry. Here's something to remember when buying ammo. It's either corrosive or non-corrosive. There is no such thing as mildly corrosive and that's a fact. Spot on. |
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I didn't clean my 5.45 AR over the course of 7 or 8 months and 1,000 or 1,500 rounds.
The only thing that made me change my mind was after that, and a short stint in which I hadn't been shooting lately, I had to mortar the damn thing open. No rust, just carbon caked up stuck apparently. (Only about 200 rounds of the above was shot suppressed)
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I didn't clean my 5.45 AR over the course of 7 or 8 months and 1,000 or 1,500 rounds. The only thing that made me change my mind was after that, and a short stint in which I hadn't been shooting lately, I had to mortar the damn thing open. No rust, just carbon caked up stuck apparently. (Only about 200 rounds of the above was shot suppressed) View Quote I'm in VA and I can see the corrosion in one day after shooting. Is it dry where you're at? |
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plouffedaddy,
Friend, right now I'm very cautious to your advice. Another member here did a full eval on the Emod that you're shooting here in that pic still of the video you did, which has proven that Emods do not work with 5.45 flawlessly as you said it does. No offense, man...but I'm like at what you say from here on out. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_121/625618_Ok_guys_5_45_mags_part_2_now_with_more_Emag_updated_with_videos.html |
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Quoted: I'm in VA and I can see the corrosion in one day after shooting. Is it dry where you're at? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I didn't clean my 5.45 AR over the course of 7 or 8 months and 1,000 or 1,500 rounds. The only thing that made me change my mind was after that, and a short stint in which I hadn't been shooting lately, I had to mortar the damn thing open. No rust, just carbon caked up stuck apparently. (Only about 200 rounds of the above was shot suppressed) I'm in VA and I can see the corrosion in one day after shooting. Is it dry where you're at? |
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All you need is water.
Then oil after you finish cleaning. Has worked well for thousands of rounds of 7n6 |
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Like being pregnant, there's no such thing as "slightly" corrosive. It is or it isn't, and in corrosive ammo there's no such thing as ammo that's more or less corrosive.
The corrosive element is the primer, which produces a form of salt when fired. There might be a slight difference between the amount of salt produced by a large primer versus a small primer, but not enough to make the slightest difference, the rifle is still going to have salt crystals deposited every where the fumes contacted. The salt is deposited in microscopic particles where the fumes come in contact with the metal and the tiny salt crystals attract moisture from the air and cause rust. If you live in a very dry area with little humidity you can get by for at least some time before it starts rusting. Live in a humid area, summer or winter and a gun fired with corrosive ammo can start rusting in literally a couple of hours. If you have a non-removable muzzle attachment, all you need to do is boil a pot of water with a few drops of kitchen soap as a wetting agent, then stick the muzzle into the pot of water and swish it around. The hot water will bring out the salt residue, dissolve it, and flush it out. After it flash dries you can spray in some sort of rust preventing lube. How fast a rifle will rust depends on how humid it is where you are on a particular day. |
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The climate you're in matters much more than people mention. I've fired corrosive ammo through guns and let them sit for a month afterwards in a dry environment and they haven't rusted. I don't recommend this, I just forgot on several occasions.
People who live in very humid climates tend to find that the metal surfaces start to rust within 24 hours. |
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Or faster.
I know of a man that lives in a very humid area. He went to the range on a hot, humid day and put a few magazines through his AK-74. He put the rifle in the trunk and stopped off at a bar for a couple of beers. When he got home a couple of hours later, his rifle was beginning to rust. |
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plouffedaddy, Friend, right now I'm very cautious to your advice. Another member here did a full eval on the Emod that you're shooting here in that pic still of the video you did, which has proven that Emods do not work with 5.45 flawlessly as you said it does. No offense, man...but I'm like at what you say from here on out. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_121/625618_Ok_guys_5_45_mags_part_2_now_with_more_Emag_updated_with_videos.html View Quote Interesting. I wonder if he was using the new EMags (with the over insertion tab) or old ones.... I only have the ones now with the tabs FWIW, and I've only used the ones with the tab for 5.45. No offense taken. All I try to do on my channel and here on the forums is share my experience and knowledge with others for the benefit of our community. If others have different experiences then I appreciate them sharing as well. Like I say in a lot of my videos---I'm just a guy in a field with some guns and a camera. I'm no one special and don't have any dillusions as such. The more information the better as far as I'm concerned. Glad you posted the link. |
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I fired my new upper with surplus ammo, and left it for two days with higher than usual humidity...it blossomed a powdery rust in the entire chamber....brushed away pretty clean though with no discernable pitting....
I think the salts are in every surp ammo...but it depends on the level of humidity you have near your rifle. the lower humidity 20% ? you could last a while longer before Major Pitting shows up. bolt face, barrel and muzzle brake...keep looking until you brush them salts away. |
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Interesting. I wonder if he was using the new EMags (with the over insertion tab) or old ones.... I only have the ones now with the tabs FWIW, and I've only used the ones with the tab for 5.45. No offense taken. All I try to do on my channel and here on the forums is share my experience and knowledge with others for the benefit of our community. If others have different experiences then I appreciate them sharing as well. Like I say in a lot of my videos---I'm just a guy in a field with some guns and a camera. I'm no one special and don't have any dillusions as such. The more information the better as far as I'm concerned. Glad you posted the link. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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plouffedaddy, Friend, right now I'm very cautious to your advice. Another member here did a full eval on the Emod that you're shooting here in that pic still of the video you did, which has proven that Emods do not work with 5.45 flawlessly as you said it does. No offense, man...but I'm like at what you say from here on out. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_121/625618_Ok_guys_5_45_mags_part_2_now_with_more_Emag_updated_with_videos.html Interesting. I wonder if he was using the new EMags (with the over insertion tab) or old ones.... I only have the ones now with the tabs FWIW, and I've only used the ones with the tab for 5.45. No offense taken. All I try to do on my channel and here on the forums is share my experience and knowledge with others for the benefit of our community. If others have different experiences then I appreciate them sharing as well. Like I say in a lot of my videos---I'm just a guy in a field with some guns and a camera. I'm no one special and don't have any dillusions as such. The more information the better as far as I'm concerned. Glad you posted the link. |
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plouffedaddy, Friend, right now I'm very cautious to your advice. Another member here did a full eval on the Emod that you're shooting here in that pic still of the video you did, which has proven that Emods do not work with 5.45 flawlessly as you said it does. No offense, man...but I'm like at what you say from here on out. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_121/625618_Ok_guys_5_45_mags_part_2_now_with_more_Emag_updated_with_videos.html View Quote There are different variations of each mag, even if they're not advertised as such. I don't think it's a reason to discredit everything the guys says. That being said, we should figure out which versions of what mags do work. |
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There are different variations of each mag, even if they're not advertised as such. I don't think it's a reason to discredit everything the guys says. That being said, we should figure out which versions of what mags do work. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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plouffedaddy, Friend, right now I'm very cautious to your advice. Another member here did a full eval on the Emod that you're shooting here in that pic still of the video you did, which has proven that Emods do not work with 5.45 flawlessly as you said it does. No offense, man...but I'm like at what you say from here on out. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_121/625618_Ok_guys_5_45_mags_part_2_now_with_more_Emag_updated_with_videos.html There are different variations of each mag, even if they're not advertised as such. I don't think it's a reason to discredit everything the guys says. That being said, we should figure out which versions of what mags do work. |
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Please do join the link sir. Hopefully we can get a sticky to finally air out some conflicting information. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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plouffedaddy, Friend, right now I'm very cautious to your advice. Another member here did a full eval on the Emod that you're shooting here in that pic still of the video you did, which has proven that Emods do not work with 5.45 flawlessly as you said it does. No offense, man...but I'm like at what you say from here on out. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_121/625618_Ok_guys_5_45_mags_part_2_now_with_more_Emag_updated_with_videos.html There are different variations of each mag, even if they're not advertised as such. I don't think it's a reason to discredit everything the guys says. That being said, we should figure out which versions of what mags do work. Subscribed |
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Thankfully, I belong to a small, very informal shooting/hunting club. If I want to, I can take a spray can of Ballistol, a toothbrush, cleaning rag and bore snake with me to the range and clean an ak-74 clone IMMEDIATELY after shooting milsurplus if I want to. OR I can clean immediately after the 25-minute drive home more conveniently. I NEVER go to the range unless I am sure that I will have cleaning time immediately after the range session.
BTW, I love shooting the ak-74 clones much more than the ar-15 m-4 variants. Almost zero recoil for fast follow-up shots - although certainly the m-4 clones don't have much recoil either when they have a good recoil spring and a heavy buffer installed. It's almost a win-win situation. |
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I break down my AKs, rinse with water hose and then lay a hair dryer next to them for 20 minutes. Then clean as normal. Corrosive ammo isn nearly as bad as everyone says. It's not lie acid where it would eat your gun it absorbs water and the water causes rust. So imagine if you left your gun outside in the rain and it started to rust. We'll it would be half that bad over time.
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