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Posted: 3/12/2013 1:44:20 AM EDT
I traded a few things and I have an AK 47 that was built from a parts kit. I shot from 25 yards and it keyholes evry shot. It keyholes at all distances until about 8 yards away from the target. I have not shot at greater distances than 36 yards. Pleasantly suprised with accuracy from tumbling bullets.
My first thought were, "Oh no. I have a crap AK. Overrated commie junk." My second thoughts were, "That is actually cool. Bigger holes mean deader bodies." Basically, I don't have a problem with the keyholing in mid flight as long at it isn't damaging the gun or will blow up in my face. Question, what is causing it? Here are some details. It is a Nodak reciever. I have no idea what parts this was built with. Perhaps Egyptian based on the only writing I see on the front trunion. The rifling looks fairly shiny and crisp. Crown looks pretty sloppy but I don't see how a crown could destabalize a bullet. Also, I'm not sure if this is how it works on AKs, but there is some flash that seems to come from the part of the gun the combustion takes place around the front of the reciever. After some research this is what I have found as possible culprits: -Oversized Bore/ small bullets -Loose muzzle break -Throat errosion issues -Headspacing Issues -impropper twist rate -copper fouling -worn crown -hole in the barrel where the gas goes into the gas tube could be snagging the bullet -cheap ammo Anything else? I ruled out the oversized bore/undersized bullet based on the next photo. I also shot a few shots off without the muzzle break and it still keyholes, so I ruled the muzzle break out. And I was shooting multiple brands of 7.62 so the 'cheap ammo' is ruled out. 
Also does anyone have any clear pictures of a proper AK twist rate? It is hard to tell but the twist rate in my AK looks slightly slower than the twist rate in my Zastava AK pistol. Thanks for the help guys. |
many were manufactured incorrectly.
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The crown on that barrel is not typical of a "Factory" barrel (I know, all barrels are made in a factory of some sort). It is a sharp 45 instead of a rolled edge. Furthermore, the amount of threads for the brake are not correct for a factory barrel. If they were cut back from a correct barrel, the result may be less than 16".
n any case, the barrel is junk and the gun is pretty useless until the barrel is replaced. Depending on receiver, it may need to be scrapped for parts. After some research this is what I have found as possible culprits:
YES -Oversized Bore/ small bullets Maybe if it's actually striking, but unlikely -Loose muzzle break NO -Throat errosion issues NO -Headspacing Issues YES -impropper twist rate NO -copper fouling NO -worn crown NO -hole in the barrel where the gas goes into the gas tube could be snagging the bullet NO -cheap ammo your bullet is either rattling down the bore, or taking a major impact on exit - which would likely make an obvious channel in your brake. Probably a POS US barrel with the wrong twist or half the rifling stripped out from crap material (had that on a Garand. |
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