AK Sponsor
Posted: 11/11/2012 6:29:06 AM EDT
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I've tried multiple mags, so I know what the problem is, but need to know the correct way to fix it.
I have an AES-10B . Once any mag is locked in place you cannot release it, without banging the release with another mag, mallet ,etc. It locks the mag in that tight. Do I just start using a file, on the release lip, a little at a time until a mag can be released using thumb pressure? Thanks |
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Quoted: If it's multiple mags like you say, then yes, hit the release lip with a file. I've had good luck doing it in the past. Go slow!I've tried multiple mags, so I know what the problem is, but need to know the correct way to fix it. I have an AES-10B . Once any mag is locked in place you cannot release it, without banging the release with another mag, mallet ,etc. It locks the mag in that tight. Do I just start using a file, on the release lip, a little at a time until a mag can be released using thumb pressure? Thanks |
| I usuall file the top portion of the mag catch very slowly and only by hand..no dremel... Till I feel it's right and I can hear it click to lock the mag in.. Sometimes on virgin kit every thing is tighter and needs fitting.. I have found virgin part kits take a lot more time and effort to build.but I love to spend more time on building these cuz retired kits go together to quickly.. |
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ARRRRGH!
NO! That is the 100% WRONG ANSWER - don't you guys ever do searches? I've answered this question a half dozen times already. The issue is the adjustment of the selector stop plate. It needs to be thinner. Filing on the mag catch may allow the mag catch to engage easier, but it is lowering the height of the magazine relative to the rails and consequently the bolt face. The mag catch length is a standard. The selector stop plate height is a variable. It is DESIGNED TO BE ADJUSTED. Run a small file between the mag catch and the selector stop plate (filing on the latter) until the mag locks. I do it on the mill in a fixture prior to riveting, but it is rarely worth un-riveting one already assembled. That is for height. Front to rear is the tab - CAI usually screws this up when they hog out the mag well, and cut it back too far. There must be no front to back movement of the mag or it will lock up when grasped (but drop free if one touches only the mag catch). It must be equal to or in front of the mag well opening. Fortunately, the rim diameter on the 7.62 is enough that you can usually get away with modifying the correct part in a misguided and completely wrong attempt to make it fit the incorrect part. 5.45 not so much. You get bolt over base. Referring to mag height - THERE IS NEVER A REASON TO FILE ON A CORRECTLY LOCATED MAG CATCH! filing on the limiting tab on the back of the mag catch to increase forward rake is acceptable |
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Sorry to Rez this topic but its one near to my heart or at least it applies to my TGI AMD65. It has always been a PITA to get it to release magazines. The mag catch lays right on the taper of the magazine and as you shoot it wedges in TIGHT. On my SA93 the mag catch falls right under the taper on the magazine back and releases easy as can be. Both rifles are as reliable as an AK should be (unless I feed them a pro-mag then they both choke). With the AMD65 I pretty much just use the Tapco mags as they don't bind up like the east block steel magazines do. However I really like using the 20 round Bulgy steel mags in the AMD.
So my question here is how should I correct the binding issue on the AMD if not removing material from the catch lever? |
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And now I see the problem. The good folks at TGI did not install a selector stop plate between the trigger guard and receiver on my rifle. Guess I will do some looking around to see who sells them. Edit. And now I see YOU sell them. When I get home from my trim later this week I will get with you.
Thanx for the link, a picture is worth a thousand words! |
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Well I was going by memory on the selector stop plate thing. My milled SA93 does not have one but the AMD65 does... In looking around the net it appears some AK47s have what looks like an additional shim stacked in with the selector stop plate. At the end of the day I got tired of the latch sticking and I put the file to work. I had already purchased a TAK latch so pulling the screw and adding some clearance was a piece of cake. While I would prefer to work things out in the proper manner I did not really care for the prospect of grinding the heads off of and drilling out the 4 rivets then replacing them at the front of the trigger guard.
BTW thanx for the offer on the free part. |
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