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Posted: 8/12/2013 11:20:10 AM EDT
| Dayum! The same thing happened when I shot some Wolf out of my Draco. Rust in the gas tube. I also had some in the hollow portion at the rear of the bolt carrier (not sure how that got there). I think a good rule of thumb is to just clean them after shooting Wolf ammo in them. Luckily I live in a dry climate, so rust isn't always as quick to develop. |
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Yes im using Black Box Wolf made in Ukraine. Ive been reading some forums and some people are saying its very corrosive and that AIM at one point took it off thier shelf. Yet the manufacturer and Primer manufacturer are saying its not. Considering i have a bare metal BFPU Wasr that hasnt been shot in forever and has zero rust says my basement isnt damp lol.
That being said i cleaned the shit out of all of them and got rid of the rust and oiled them up. |
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I have treated ALL Combloc commercial ammo as corrosive since the first batch of Chinese stuff rolled in to the country a few decades ago. Never had a problem because I always cleaned as per corrosive ammo. I kindof thought everybody did the same thing as per mistrust of Commie and ex-Commie marketing materials {read; lies} but maybe that just applies to those of us who grew up during the Cold War.
OP: Couple options. First, you cannot make the pitting go away. You probably already knew that but there it is. You have gotten a lot of good advice here, but you can add one method to the list. If the bore gets it; Carefully clean the bore with Naval Jelly after first cleaning with regular solvents and degreasing with acetone. You run a sopping patch in and let it sit for about ten minutes and then run another in. Ditto. Do it two or three times and the rust should be GONE, leaving a pitted but clean barrel. Now, the barrel will also be etched, so get some JB Bore paste and polish it. You can use the fine grit, it is OK. Then clean with Hoppe's #9, etc. Now you have a pitted, clean, polished bore of very slightly different dimensions than it was. At this point you can just treat it as normal, in which case you will see a noticeable buildup of jacket material fouling fairly quickly. Or, you can meticulously clean it every time you shoot with bore brush and copper solvent to keep ahead of the fouling. As mentioned, the gas tube and block really don't matter too much on an AK, they shoot well regardless. Curious the bore isn't too bad. However...you may find significant pitting starting or active live rust under the camoflage of fouling. So if you really clean the bore you might find it, too, is pitted heavily. |
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Quoted:
I have treated ALL Combloc commercial ammo as corrosive since the first batch of Chinese stuff rolled in to the country a few decades ago. Never had a problem because I always cleaned as per corrosive ammo. I kindof thought everybody did the same thing as per mistrust of Commie and ex-Commie marketing materials {read; lies} but maybe that just applies to those of us who grew up during the Cold War. OP: Couple options. First, you cannot make the pitting go away. You probably already knew that byut there it is. You have gotten a lot of good advice here, but you can add one method to the list. If the bore gets it; Carefully clean the bore with Naval Jelly after first cleaning with regular solvents and degreasing with acetone. You run a sopping patch in and let it sit for about ten minutes and then run another in. Ditto. Do it two or three times and the rust should be GONE, leaving a pitted but clean barrel. Now, the barrel will also be etched, so get some JB Bore paste and polish it. You can use the fine grit, it is OK. Then clean with Hoppe's #9, etc. Now you have a pitted, clean, polished bore of very slightly different dimensions than it was. At this point you can just treat it as normal, in which case you will see a noticeable buildup of jacket material fouling fairly quickly. Or, you can meticulously clean it every time you shoot with bore brush and copper solvent to keep ahead of the fouling. As mentioned, the gas tube and block really don't matter too much on an AK, they shoot well regardless. Curious the bore isn't too bad. However...you may find significant pitting starting or active live rust under the camoflage of fouling. So if you really clean the bore you might find it, too, is pitted heavily. Do not use naval jelly on a chrome lined bore! It can destroy the chrome. |
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Do not use naval jelly on a chrome lined bore! It can destroy the chrome. Quoted:
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I have treated ALL Combloc commercial ammo as corrosive since the first batch of Chinese stuff rolled in to the country a few decades ago. Never had a problem because I always cleaned as per corrosive ammo. I kindof thought everybody did the same thing as per mistrust of Commie and ex-Commie marketing materials {read; lies} but maybe that just applies to those of us who grew up during the Cold War. OP: Couple options. First, you cannot make the pitting go away. You probably already knew that byut there it is. You have gotten a lot of good advice here, but you can add one method to the list. If the bore gets it; Carefully clean the bore with Naval Jelly after first cleaning with regular solvents and degreasing with acetone. You run a sopping patch in and let it sit for about ten minutes and then run another in. Ditto. Do it two or three times and the rust should be GONE, leaving a pitted but clean barrel. Now, the barrel will also be etched, so get some JB Bore paste and polish it. You can use the fine grit, it is OK. Then clean with Hoppe's #9, etc. Now you have a pitted, clean, polished bore of very slightly different dimensions than it was. At this point you can just treat it as normal, in which case you will see a noticeable buildup of jacket material fouling fairly quickly. Or, you can meticulously clean it every time you shoot with bore brush and copper solvent to keep ahead of the fouling. As mentioned, the gas tube and block really don't matter too much on an AK, they shoot well regardless. Curious the bore isn't too bad. However...you may find significant pitting starting or active live rust under the camoflage of fouling. So if you really clean the bore you might find it, too, is pitted heavily. Do not use naval jelly on a chrome lined bore! It can destroy the chrome. This is correct basically but not because it damages chrome. My post above applies most specifically to bare steel bores BUT... Chrome-lined bores are trouble of their own in that if live rust does get thru to the bare steel you have trouble one way or the other, as there is a lifting action of the rust which further causes damage to the chrome. The etching effect of naval jelly can case minor damage and lifting of sorts of its own, but polishing it will aleviate most of it. IF you have live rust penetration of a chrome boore you have a bad bore either way, bt if you want to stop the rust...you have to do it chemically. You won't be able to do it mechanically, at least, not all of it...unless you want to risk making a shotgun barrel out of your rifle tube... |
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Then you are really golden. The gas tube and block are no big deal. Quoted:
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Quite honestly, there was no pitting inside of the barrel on any of the rifles. Then you are really golden. The gas tube and block are no big deal. Yeah i know but its just shocking how much surface rust developed from supposedly "non-corrosive" ammo. Thanks everyone for the comments. |
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Yeah i know but its just shocking how much surface rust developed from supposedly "non-corrosive" ammo. Thanks everyone for the comments. Quoted:
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Quite honestly, there was no pitting inside of the barrel on any of the rifles. Then you are really golden. The gas tube and block are no big deal. Yeah i know but its just shocking how much surface rust developed from supposedly "non-corrosive" ammo. Thanks everyone for the comments. You definitely dodged a bullet, pun intended. Trust not Combloc/ex-Combloc marketing and promises. Great lesson for others, so thanks for posting your experiences. |
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I have one simple rule. If I don't have the time to clean any of my guns immediately after shooting it, I don't shoot it. GARY Basically the same way with my 5.45 rifles since i only shoot corrosive surplus...well that and its not exactly flooding the market anymore lol. Guess i have to watch myself with new batches of ammo nowadays |
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Quoted: I had a pakerized shotgun rust on me. It just happens sometimes. Maybe you did get a bad batch of ammo, I dunno. I always clean my weapons right after I shoot them just because of this type of thing. A little elbow grease = great peace of mind. |
| Its common sense. If your rifle is dirty, and dry as a bone, it will rust. I do monthly maintenance on all of mine. I constantly check for a shimmery coat of oil inside the reciever, and I run an oily patch down the barrel once a month. I have NEVER had a rust poblem. Rust does not magically appear on random areas. It does appear on poorly maintained firearms though..... |
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Its common sense. If your rifle is dirty, and dry as a bone, it will rust. I do monthly maintenance on all of mine. I constantly check for a shimmery coat of oil inside the reciever, and I run an oily patch down the barrel once a month. I have NEVER had a rust poblem. Rust does not magically appear on random areas. It does appear on poorly maintained firearms though..... So you are saying my rifles rusted after 3 days of shooting because they were poorly maintained yet you run an oily patch only once a month and it never rusts? I also never had a rust problem, ever, until now. Obvious corrosive ammo is corrosive.
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| Ya thats pretty much what im saying. Mine always get cleaned right after each trip to the range. So you're telling me, you shot the rifle for three days, using corrosive ammo, and didnt clean it? Sounds like poor maintenance to me. The monthly maintenance I talked about is WITHOUT EVEN SHOOTING THEM. If I were to shoot them on a daily basis, then of course I would oil them more than once a month. I dont really care how you treat your rifles, they're not mine. Store it in a muddy ditch if you want. Just dont try and blow smoke up my hole and tell me rust magically appeared in a perfectly maintained rifle with no explanation. Suck it up, clean the darn thing, and for god sake lube it. (yes, even the gas tube) |
| Like what was said before. Always treat this Eastern European ammo as if it were corrosive. This last screw up with the Wolf that we all bought from AIM is a good example. I didn't bother to send mine back, it's all corrosive. I always take several gallon jugs of water with me to the range. A good flushing with regular tap water, followed with a spray down with a 90/10 solution of water & Ballistol will get me by till I can do a good cleaning later. At least it was just the gas tube & block, unlike that poor suckers AR. Then again I don't have a life, so doing maintenance is kinda fun. |
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Quoted: Ya thats pretty much what im saying. Mine always get cleaned right after each trip to the range. So you're telling me, you shot the rifle for three days, using corrosive ammo, and didnt clean it? Sounds like poor maintenance to me. The monthly maintenance I talked about is WITHOUT EVEN SHOOTING THEM. If I were to shoot them on a daily basis, then of course I would oil them more than once a month. I dont really care how you treat your rifles, they're not mine. Store it in a muddy ditch if you want. Just dont try and blow smoke up my hole and tell me rust magically appeared in a perfectly maintained rifle with no explanation. Suck it up, clean the darn thing, and for god sake lube it. (yes, even the gas tube) This is a technical forum and your way out of line here. You need to tone it down a lot. dryflash3
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I also never had a rust problem, ever, until now. Obvious corrosive ammo is corrosive.