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Posted: 1/1/2012 6:23:19 PM EDT
| What do you consider to be the most durable metal finnish a guy can do himself at home ? Having access to a conventional oven or heat gun ..I am just talking solid colors . |
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powdercoating would be the most durable in my opinion. you can get a powdercoat gun from harbor freight or spend a few dollars more and go to
www.eastwood.com and check out their powdercoat starter kits. they come with just about everything you need plus detailed instructions. if whatever you are coating will fit in your home oven you are good to go. tho you should have whatever you are coating bead blasted first. powdercoat bonds really well to clean raw metal. |
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One of the best is Lauer Duracoat.
It's a two-part mix epoxy that comes in a large number of colors. It has to be applied with an airbrush or spray gun, and is air hardening. It reaches full hardness in 3 weeks, but hard to use in a few days. Once properly applied and allowed to cure, about the only way to get it off is to bead blast. Like most gun finishes, it's best applied over a bead blasted finish, which gives the coating a "tooth" to bond to. Best results are when the finish is allowed to cure for at least a week before assembling to prevent scraping or marring the fresh finish. Fully cured it's a very hard, durable finish. |
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+1 on KG guncoat.
It bakes on and so far has been very good for me. The Ak that it is on has not even gone thru the finish where the safety lever slides up and down and it has been used more then other non guncoated ak's and they go thru the finish pretty quick. I hear a lot of good things about duracoat but the one gun I had it on seemed alot thicker then the guncoat which I didn't like because it made faint stamping almost disappear. That's my only experience and so far i love the guncoat. |
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Quoted: +1 for gunkote. +1 on KG guncoat. It bakes on and so far has been very good for me. The Ak that it is on has not even gone thru the finish where the safety lever slides up and down and it has been used more then other non guncoated ak's and they go thru the finish pretty quick. I hear a lot of good things about duracoat but the one gun I had it on seemed alot thicker then the guncoat which I didn't like because it made faint stamping almost disappear. That's my only experience and so far i love the guncoat. If the gun is parkerized you won't need to sand blast. If you don't have an airbrush you can pick one up for cheap at Harbour Freight. Preparation is the key. Follow the directions and you will have an excellent finish. |
| I used ALUMA-HYDE II on my R-25 , I sprayed it right over the camo , it's pretty toigh stuff on it's own but it chips off with the camo and leaves a white spot , I don't know what ever posessed Remington to go with the camo finnish ? Someday I will have it stripped down and done right but right now I need a tough finnish for some metal accessories i've made for my AKs . |
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Quoted:
I used ALUMA-HYDE II on my R-25 , I sprayed it right over the camo , it's pretty toigh stuff on it's own but it chips off with the camo and leaves a white spot , I don't know what ever posessed Remington to go with the camo finnish ? Someday I will have it stripped down and done right but right now I need a tough finnish for some metal accessories i've made for my AKs . To convince fuds that they are not really buying an evil black rifle. |
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KG 2400 series will be the easiest, no mixing. CeraKote "H" series, "C" series, and DuraCoat would also provide you with a good looking long lasting finish. The "H" series will require baking to cure while the "C" series and DuraCoat are ambient cured. If you go to the refinishing section there is a lot of info on the coatings or you can visit LTM Refinishing LLC for info on all of the above mentioned coatings. If you run into any problems during your project give me a call my number is on the site at the bottom of each page.
Good luck with your project and post some pics when you get it completed. |
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