AK Sponsor
Posted: 5/3/2012 4:52:33 AM EDT
|
Here's my recently purchased Arsenal SLR 95. My plan is to remove the stock and purchase the lower tang and rivet it to the receiver. The receiver is already milled out to receive the tang. I'll then go with the traditional pistol grip and stock. I have a few questions of things I've noticed. I likely paid too much for it but it was more of a treat to myself. This gun will probably get shot more than all my others combined. Oh well, here goes.
Here's a picture of the gun. Imageshack isn't letting me rotate my pictures so bear with me. 
I noticed the side of the bolt is scraped towards the front and the inside of the receiver on the left is as well. The action doesn't seem to bind at all. 
Is this simply wear and tear or would you guys be looking to purchase another bolt? What is this piece on the inside of the receiver that's hitting the bolt? Also, the gas tube is really easy to remove and install. Much more so than any AK I've dealt with. The gas tube/upper handguard has some play I'd like to get rid of. Will purchasing another spring for the gas tube help any? Thanks for the help. |
|
I wasn't aware there was ever a spring in the gas tube... If it bothers you and you're OCD, replace it. But I imagine it will function fine the way it is. I can't tell from the photos, but are there vent holes in your gas tube? If so, it's not quite correct for the SLR-95/AR-M1 family of rifles.
The bolt should be fine as well. I believe that's the spot where it may rub against the ammo in the magazine. If you're worried, get another one as a back up. If I may ask, how much did you pay for yours? I recently picked one up as well, one of the earliest ones with the cutout for the 2nd tang and no muzzle device. |
|
Quoted:
The spring I am mentioning is the circular one outside the gas tube towards the rear of the rifle. And yes, it does have vent holes. Can you buy backup bolts? I always thought bolts were specific to rifles. Is this bolt specific to milled Bulgarian receivers? Oh that retainer/tightening "spring" attached to the gas tube. You can buy backup bolts. It's always smart to check headspace, but it should be on. I believe K-var sells them on their website. But honestly, I wouldn't worry about it. Looks like normal wear of the finish to me. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
The spring I am mentioning is the circular one outside the gas tube towards the rear of the rifle. And yes, it does have vent holes. Can you buy backup bolts? I always thought bolts were specific to rifles. Is this bolt specific to milled Bulgarian receivers? Oh that retainer/tightening "spring" attached to the gas tube. You can buy backup bolts. It's always smart to check headspace, but it should be on. I believe K-var sells them on their website. But honestly, I wouldn't worry about it. Looks like normal wear of the finish to me. Not sure we are looking at the same scrape. I'm not talking about all the finish wear but a scrape on the bolt. Matybe this picture will help a little. 
|
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The spring I am mentioning is the circular one outside the gas tube towards the rear of the rifle. And yes, it does have vent holes. Can you buy backup bolts? I always thought bolts were specific to rifles. Is this bolt specific to milled Bulgarian receivers? Oh that retainer/tightening "spring" attached to the gas tube. You can buy backup bolts. It's always smart to check headspace, but it should be on. I believe K-var sells them on their website. But honestly, I wouldn't worry about it. Looks like normal wear of the finish to me. Not sure we are looking at the same scrape. I'm not talking about all the finish wear but a scrape on the bolt. Matybe this picture will help a little. http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg846/scaled.php?server=846&filename=slr010revised.jpg&res=landing I'll get back to you on what I find on my bolt for comparison. |
|
That "scrape" you pointed out is ground in on all bolts. It is a lead or slight chamfer that helps the bolt to pass over the ejector during its rearward travel.
In your case, like on most Arsenal bolts, unfortunately, there is this grove (scrape) but no lead. Such lead (chamfer) is not necessary on stamped receiver, but required on milled one. Lead can be filed in with fine diamond needle file. Difficult to do due to very confined space. Steel file will not do since it files in one direction only. What is this piece on the inside of the receiver that's hitting the bolt?
This piece is case ejector. It is getting nicked by your bolt. Check which part of your bolt is hitting it and chamfer that area of the bolt. The ejector is not supposed to have this wear. |
|
You did great bro, nice AK! One of the best money can buy in fact!
I won't publicly say exactly how many AK's I own, but its more that just a couple MAK-90's and Romy's. My SLR's and SA-93's are among the absolute best of all them when it comes to shooting... You have a rally good SLR-95 there (with the muzzle attachment and the internal portion of the receiver already milled for the lower tang. G2G! If you were to drive the 2 pins out of that muzzle device, you'll most likely find that it will thread right off of the barrel, leaving you with a nice threaded barrel underneath. Also if you remove the rear 2 rivets from the trigger guard, you'll find that you can install a new lower tang in that milled groove with 2 new (slightly longer) rivets. G2G again, ready for pre-ban style furniture. Score! |
|
Quoted:
That "scrape" you pointed out is ground in on all bolts. It is a lead or slight chamfer that helps the bolt to pass over the ejector during its rearward travel. In your case, like on most Arsenal bolts, unfortunately, there is this grove (scrape) but no lead. Such lead (chamfer) is not necessary on stamped receiver, but required on milled one. Lead can be filed in with fine diamond needle file. Difficult to do due to very confined space. Steel file will not do since it files in one direction only. What is this piece on the inside of the receiver that's hitting the bolt?
This piece is case ejector. It is getting nicked by your bolt. Check which part of your bolt is hitting it and chamfer that area of the bolt. The ejector is not supposed to have this wear. Thank you for the input. I did check the bolt and the scrape I pointed out is all I could find. Is this a situation that can get worse or do you think the damage is already done? |
|
Quoted:
Thank you for the input. I did check the bolt and the scrape I pointed out is all I could find. Is this a situation that can get worse or do you think the damage is already done? There is nothing wrong with your bolt. That grove in the bolt that you have pointed out with red arrow in previous photo is normal. Are you speaking of the scrape of your ejector? That nick on top of it? If you are, then this scrape or nick is not normal. It will get bigger with time. To prevent it, you must chamfer that part of the bolt that is scraping it. File small 15 - 30 degree chamfer so there is no sharp corner in that area of your bolt. I can post pic later tonight where to file or stone if you have further questions. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Thank you for the input. I did check the bolt and the scrape I pointed out is all I could find. Is this a situation that can get worse or do you think the damage is already done? There is nothing wrong with your bolt. That grove in the bolt that you have pointed out with red arrow in previous photo is normal. Are you speaking of the scrape of your ejector? That nick on top of it? If you are, then this scrape or nick is not normal. It will get bigger with time. To prevent it, you must chamfer that part of the bolt that is scraping it. File small 15 - 30 degree chamfer so there is no sharp corner in that area of your bolt. I can post pic later tonight where to file or stone if you have further questions. Please do. Thanks. |
File photo of brand new E German bolt. You can see that the edge is chamfered, though it appears quite small. Some bolts may not be chamfered in this area, and this sharp edge will nick or scrape the top of the ejector like shown in one of your pics. You may put a radius there if you wish. Use abrasive file stone or needle file. 
These are some of the file stones (Norton, 1/4 " X 4") you can use to deburr anything on your firearm. Use only "India" stones. "Crystolon" cut very fast, but are soft and wear down and deform very quickly. These stones are to be used with light oil. http://ssunl.com/ToolRoom.html |
AK Sponsor