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Posted: 3/2/2010 8:01:25 AM EDT
| I have an Lancaster Rough Rider with the Park finish. I would like to paint it. I am considering a flat black finish. I would like some advise on what type of paint I should use. I have been considering using Alumihyde II in a spray can, but I am definatley open to suggestion. I would like it to look good. Also, I am wondering hoe to paint around the magazine latch and rear sight without gumming it up or leaving parts on it unfinished. |
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please consider Moly Resin
Many use Paint over Park or even Gunkyte/Moly resin over park.......... Mil-spec requires sandblasting and not bead blasting for Moly resin. Someone had a nice write up of his Alumihyde II success somewhere on here. |
| I've used Alumahyde 2. Works but it seems to rub off somewhat easily. I think the problem is that I didn't bake it on or anything though. The nozzles on the aerosol cans clog up due to the thickness of the stuff, but with a few extra nozzles I got my entire WASR and six mags done with it. All in all I do like the stuff, but if you're looking for something ultra-high quality, I'd look elsewhere. |
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Quoted:
I have an Lancaster Rough Rider with the Park finish. I would like to paint it. I am considering a flat black finish. I would like some advise on what type of paint I should use. I have been considering using Alumihyde II in a spray can, but I am definatley open to suggestion. I would like it to look good. Also, I am wondering hoe to paint around the magazine latch and rear sight without gumming it up or leaving parts on it unfinished. Pick up some Birchwood Casey 'Super Blue' in the small blue bottle. Take a Q-tip and try it at an out-of-the-way place. It should turn the Park black. For even results, you'll have to degrease the existing Parkerizing - I recommend washing with hot water and dish detergent. If you still want to paint it, Alumahyde II is very good but pay attention to the extended cure time. You want it to sit for about a week in a hot dry place like inside a shed in summer. You can set up such an enviroment by making a light box for it with two or three 100W bulbs. You can't 'bake-on' this epoxy paint - it has to cure, but 90 degree air really helps it. This paint is actually more ideal for those parts you cannot bake, such as polymer hand guards, etc. It would really be best to just use a flat black baking lacquer of Gun Kote and cure it in the oven. I use baking products for metal objects that I can get into the oven and Alumahyde II for other things like polymer magazines. Now it gets weird because there are some good non-gun products out there that are starting to be used on guns. One is Dupli-Color Ceramic Engine Paint, Low-Gloss Black. Being an engine paint, its resistant to 600 degrees, which means you could oven cure it at about 250 for as long as you wanted. Once cured, its resistant to most solvents and oils. The 'Low-Gloss' black is almost flat and matches pretty well the original military finish on FEGs, for example. |
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