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9/23/2008 9:35:03 AM EDT
So I plan on painting my AK with appliance and engine paint. What if any, baking should I do and for how long? Any previous experience would be greatly appreciated.
9/23/2008 9:44:20 AM EDT
[#1]
Friends dont let friends paint their aks with bad paint. Use moly resin, gunkote, etc.  You wont be sorry.  Comon guys help me out.  We have a misguided friend in need here.

www.johnnorrellarms.com/

www.midwayusa.com/browse/BrowseProducts.aspx?t=82579&pageNum=0&tabId=8&categoryId=11335&categoryString=649***10400***
9/23/2008 9:55:27 AM EDT
[#2]
This is the second time I'll be painting it. My friend did it the last time with Duracoat and you can look at it wrong and the paint comes off. So I stripped it. I saw on the forums that some of you have used the engine and appliance paint before and had success with it. As for the Duracoat, we were told that the hardener was probably bad and I'm fishing for other alternatives. Thanks
9/23/2008 10:22:46 AM EDT
[#3]
I checked out Molly Resin and Midway but am unsure what product is the best and easiest to use. Any advise?
9/23/2008 11:39:10 AM EDT
[#4]

Quoted:
Friends dont let friends paint their aks with bad paint. Use moly resin, gunkote, etc.  You wont be sorry.  Comon guys help me out.  We have a misguided friend in need here.

www.johnnorrellarms.com/

www.midwayusa.com/browse/BrowseProducts.aspx?t=82579&pageNum=0&tabId=8&categoryId=11335&categoryString=649***10400***


Hey Steve, sure you're right about Moly resin, Gunkote/Duracoat, etc being better.  But some (even manufacturers I saw at the gun show this past weekend) use Krylon paint on their weapons.  Personally I would not do it but it is done.  I would advise a coat of Duracoat followed by a coat of clearcoat Duracoat.  The extra cost makes up for most other corners cut in the process.  Both Moly Resin and Duracoat are applied using an airbrush.  Gunkote comes in a can.  Moly Resin and Gunkote require that you heat up the item before applying (put it in the oven on warm).  Duracoat can be applied this way or cold.  All cure better and faster when baked (in the oven on warm).
9/23/2008 12:55:26 PM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Friends dont let friends paint their aks with bad paint. Use moly resin, gunkote, etc.  You wont be sorry.  Comon guys help me out.  We have a misguided friend in need here.

www.johnnorrellarms.com/

www.midwayusa.com/browse/BrowseProducts.aspx?t=82579&pageNum=0&tabId=8&categoryId=11335&categoryString=649***10400***


Hey Steve, sure you're right about Moly resin, Gunkote/Duracoat, etc being better.  But some (even manufacturers I saw at the gun show this past weekend) use Krylon paint on their weapons.  Personally I would not do it but it is done.  I would advise a coat of Duracoat followed by a coat of clearcoat Duracoat.  The extra cost makes up for most other corners cut in the process.  Both Moly Resin and Duracoat are applied using an airbrush.  Gunkote comes in a can.  Moly Resin and Gunkote require that you heat up the item before applying (put it in the oven on warm).  Duracoat can be applied this way or cold.  All cure better and faster when baked (in the oven on warm).


First of all I am jealous that you got to go to the gun show and I didnt.  

I just know that I use molyresin and it is some tough crap.  also warming before painting isnt all that necessary.  the problem with duracoat on metal parts is it doesnt flow into the cracks and joints like molyresin and gunkote. So it doesnt look like a parked gun.  Its great on stocks and stuff that cant take the 300deg bake.

So what do you think the deal is. Has Krylon come out with a super paint or somthing.
9/23/2008 1:06:22 PM EDT
[#6]

Quoted:
I checked out Molly Resin and Midway but am unsure what product is the best and easiest to use. Any advise?


Like I said I use Molyresin and have been very impressed how easy it goes on.  the main problem with painting a whole gun is finding an oven big enough for the barrel and receiver together.  I have heard of guys leaving the kitchen oven partially open and draping a blanket of some sort that can take the heat over the opening (possibly fiberglass).  but as far as easy to apply, you wont find anything easier.
9/23/2008 1:33:58 PM EDT
[#7]
Has anyone used Aluma-Hyde II from Brownells? It's in a spray can and no baking required. Although they do suggest that you heat up the parts before painting and to heat dry them in between coats.
9/23/2008 1:43:23 PM EDT
[#8]
I'm just saying that some use Krylon, but they also mentioned it could be removed using thinner which is a lot like bore solvent and that to me is not what I want on my gun.
9/23/2008 2:06:37 PM EDT
[#9]
I'm gonna try Gun-Kote in the spray can. Let you all know how it turns out. By the way, THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP AND INPUT. It makes a new guy feel good knowing that you all are out there.
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