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Posted: 5/23/2004 12:18:23 PM EDT
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Well, I picked her up on Thursday, said I would go to the range on Friday (didn't happen, the jetlag was heinous), finally got there today. Loaded up 5 mags (150 rounds) and proceeded to put them down range. It has been too long since I have been shoooting. About the rifle: SEAK - Plum, no engraving Wolf 5.45x39 First off, the 50 m lanes were closed at the range for repair, so I didn't get to sight in like I wanted to. 100M lane. I had all sorts of trouble getting on paper at 100 m. The rear site was set at its lowest, and it was still shooting about 12" low. Also about 8-10 " left. I know I can raise/lower the front sight post, but I see no obvious method for setting windage. Am I a moron for not figuring it out? Once I figured out the Kentucky hold, I was getting them in the black at 100 M. I need to get a tutorial on how to adjust them sights. FWIW, on the same range, with my AR, I can keep 30 rounds in a region the size of my fist with iron sights (peep rear though). I know this rife is not as accurate as the AR, but I know that my sucky shooting is a big contirbutor in this inaccuracy I experienced today. Still a hoot. The empties eject forward and to the right, about 2:00, and it throws them 20' or so. All 150 rounds I fired were flawless. It loads them up and spits them out, no a single error. All in all, I love this thing. Once I get it sighted in, I will be a terror to the black on the targets, and whatever else I can plink against. Another satisfied customer, Geoff |
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geoff, there is a 'drum' that pases thru the front sight tower from left to right. this 'drum' (rod, if you will) is press fitted into the fronr sight base. the front sight post is also threaded into this drum. the drum is referred to as the windage drum or such like terminology. the front sight post is screw into the drum to raise the point of impact and screw out of the drum to lower the point of impact. there is a tool in your cleaning kit that adjusts the sight post up and down to achieve the desire elevation zero. now, you need to buy a tool (looks like a fancy 'c' clamp) to shift the windage drun left or right...or just use a 'c' clamp and a socket from your socket set to move the drum. if you are hitting left of your aimpoint, move the drum (and the front sight post that is threaded in the drum) to the left. if you are hitting right of your aimpoint, move the drum to the right. |
I think that was your problem... Groups move in the same direction as the rear sight, opposite the direction of the front sight. Perhaps you could have tried setting it to 200 or 300m? As for being off to the side, that's just odd. FWIW, My Bulgarian Plum AK74 kit came in with a damn near perfect zero. AKs shouldn't need zeroing (they're factory zeroed, and as a rule individual soldiers aren't allowed to adjust their sights in the field except for setting range [makes varying distance shooting a no-brainer, too]). Edit: oh, and for the zeroing distance, the further away the better (less room for ranging mistake on your part). 200M is fine if you can consistantly hit that far away. Use a range-finder or something, because it says 200 meters to the target but is that from the bench, the chair, standing line? Edit#2: if possible, after zeroing it, try shooting at something even further away. |
I like my front sight in the middle. Sometimes it turns out that way from the factory, sometimes not. If not, an adjustable rear sight is the answer: www.k-var.com/product.asp?0=216&1=252&3=584 |
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I think Gander means that he wants a zero that gives the lowest possible deviance from the line of sight for all possible engagement distances. For example, with ARs, the IBZ (50 yards) is the preferred zero method due to the fact that from all ranges from 0 - ~200 yards, the bullet is no more than 2" away from the line of sight. But since I personally know nothing about the 5.45 round, I cannot give a zero procedure that will give a setup as described above. Maybe someone else does.... |
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Last week I was shooting clay pigeons planeted on a berm at 50m very nicely and conistently. 100m? Very different story. But at 50m, I would consitently bust the clay with one round, move on, hit the next clay, move on. I wasted over 100 rounds trying to zero my Kobra sight at just 50m. Gave up after a while. |
That is a great idea!! |
Yeah I knew that but I was wondering what actual distance would be needed to effectively sight in a rifle to get a POI similar to that of the AR's IBZ. Maybe a seasoned veteran knows...CampyBob??? JeepCreep??? Krinkfreak??? |
Well, if it matters that much to you, perhaps you might want to give a phone call to Arsenal Inc. and ask? Since they assemble from scratch, they've gotta be sighting in somehow... |
Good point. |
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