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3/18/2008 7:07:40 PM EDT
My Arsenal SLR-106F, and the only other one I ever played with at a gun show have sticky folder release buttons that require a good bit of pressure to operate the folding buttstock.  I am talking about the one on the receiver to fold, not the one on the butt to unfold.  Is this common and do they ever break in?
3/18/2008 7:35:18 PM EDT
[#1]

Quoted:
My Arsenal SLR-106F, and the only other one I ever played with at a gun show have sticky folder release buttons that require a good bit of pressure to operate the folding buttstock.  I am talking about the one on the receiver to fold, not the one on the butt to unfold.  Is this common and do they ever break in?


I have found that this requires some filing on the latch. It was the claw area on mine that required it.  Once I removed just a little from the latch in the right places, it was good to go.

I'm at work right now, but when I get home, I will try to snap a picture for you.

eta: this required removal of the latch, something I've become really good at now.
3/19/2008 1:31:02 PM EDT
[#2]
My 107UR button would not press with hand pressure I had to use a hammer and screwdriver handle to get it to fold.  I then kept it folded for a while.  I can not get it to fold with a good whack from my hand but it is still hard to press with thumb pressure alone.



Ron
3/19/2008 10:51:41 PM EDT
[#3]
Disclaimer:  Be careful and patient if you decide to do this.  Should you screw it up, the parts aren't cheap to get!

1st step:  Take a good look at your latch and try to find where it's contacting the stock, where it should be, and where it actually is.

2nd step: Take the latch apart.  It's not easy the first time, but you'll get used to it.  I use a flathead screw driver to compress the spring away from the little plunger while using a set of needle nose pliers to get the plunger out. Leave the spring in place, as it can be a pain to put back in.  Slide the latch out and you'll have something like this:



The two that I've worked on were not machined as well as the one that came with my Krink kit.  That's the one I have pictured here, and you can see the angles on all the cuts are good and square.

The areas in red are places where I've seen the latches machined poorly, which makes them stick.  The blue area is often what needs to be filed on to get the latch to slide all the way into the trunnion, and to get it to slide freely.  I used a bastard file and a lot of test fitting to get it right.



Side view.  Take note of the angles.  This is a good latch.



The blue area is another spot I had to file on with other latches.  I noticed when examining this "underside" that it was not square, and was engaging the stock (when locked in place) at on spot, not getting a full purchase as it should.  The area to the right of the blue shows that the underside tapers to a point. It should, so don't go crazy and try to make it a 90 degree angle!

I also noticed that the angles, shown in red, yellow and orange varied, with red being the best. The yellow and orange angles make it harder to open your buttstock, as they require more force to actuate the latch.



Lastly,  the latch will sit this deep if it's good.  You can see it is not 100% flush, but it's perfect when the trunnion's in a receiver, and if you look at the hole for the plunger, you'll see it could not go any deeper with the plunger in place.

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