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Posted: 12/7/2014 6:17:02 PM EDT
I have a postban WASR10 from 2003. It has a bare muzzle. I have read in some places that these barrels are too thin to be threaded for a slant break. I was wondering if I should just get one of the thread tap kits from the various AK building sites.   |
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The barrel may or may not be to small in diameter for traditional 14X1 LH threading. Your barrel needs to be at least .55 in diameter.
If it is not, you can thread it 1/2 X 28. CNC warrior has a slant brake in that thread pitch if you are desiring a slant brake, but can't thread 14X1 LH, |
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It looks all right to me, but definitely get a caliper to check it.
Romanian 7.62 guns use standard-size AKM barrel diameters. It's pretty obvious when the muzzle threads get turned off. I have a 2003 SAR-1 that the monkeys at Century turned so aggressively that even 1/2x28 threads were a no-go. I ended up having the FSB journal extended backwards and an AK-74 FSB put on. The turned off area will have a step down flush with the FSB where the threads were removed. The area forward will have some remnants of the threads and look rough. Yours looks pretty smooth. |
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Quoted:
smooth ground down thread pitch It is possible that the barrel was never threaded. As was already posted, you'll have to measure the diameter of the barrel to determine which thread diameter/pitch to choose. If the diameter is at least .55 inch it can be threaded 14X1 LH. |
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Quoted:
I just bought a caliper. It shows that the barrel diameter at the muzzle is .548 Well that's cutting it really close, but you can cut the threads at 14x1, you'll have a tiny bit of slop though, you can wrap the threads with a couple of layers of teflon pipe tape and it will likely snug it up. It's too large at .548 to cut 1/2x28 |
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EDIT: maybe too close for 14x1LH... Reference diameter for an AKM muzzle is .572". Might be cutting it real close.
In my experience the CNC Warrior muzzle devices are tapped on the tight side. If you buy a muzzle device from them it will likely not rattle. Regardless if you want to use another 14x1 device, you can always remove some material from the rear face of the device where it butts up against the FSB. Work slowly to get a clean face surface and eventually you can time it up so that the detent pin engages as the device is fairly tight against the threads. Of course you will need to get the detent spring and pin. This requires you knock out the forward FSB pin. Get a quality starter punch and punch set to do this, make sure to distribute the load evenly across the FSB side and not against the FSB ears - they can bend or break. If you damage the FSB pin you can make another from 3mm drill bit or 3mm pin stock, available at most fastener stores - e.g. Fastenal or McMaster Carr |
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