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Posted: 7/18/2007 7:00:37 AM EDT
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Hello all, been looking for quite a while, first post though he So what's the deal with U-Drive builds? Looks like it should work; provided the original rivets are seated well. On the other hand, one of the best ways to remove rivets is to drill them before knocking them out. Who has some first hand experience with these? How do they hold up? Pros and Cons? I'm about to do my first build. I will use a 100% reciever because I'm not ready to bend flats (don't yet feel comfortable with that). I will be getting a Romy G kit from J&G sales here in AZ for about $100 and the K-Var poly stock set. G2 FCG. I'd rather not foul it up. But I am trying to figure out how much I'm gonna have to spend on parts and tools etc. U-Drive looks easy (it's quiet.... too quiet?) Any opinions would be greatly appreciated. |
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If it were me.......... I'd look at doing it with real rivets. It's really not that hard. And looks much more professional. You'll probably end up building more than one. Help friends or develop an adiction. What kind of tools do you have to work with? BTW welcome to the forum. |
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I started with screws. Rivets are easier. I have a press and a plinker's jig but I recently got a bolt cutter rivet tool and that ROCKS. I won't use my Plinker's jig anymore..... I have a pile of U-drive rivets, so far I have only done a Salvage of botched rivet using a Udrive rivet on a Yugo build. |
Eyegun, I was under the impression that the bolt cutter tool only works for the front trunion. What do you use for all the other rivets? |
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OP: get a 12 ton hydraulic press. makes all jobs easier: removing the barrel, installing the barrel installing rivets, and bending flats when you finally do that. I've done rivets using: 1)12 ton press 2)two flat steel plates with hemispheres drilled in em 3)a ~1/2" steel bar front trunnion I set up the steel bar like diving board (technically: a cantilever beam) so that when I press down on the middle of the bar with the press, it presses the front trunnion rivets in. each rivet head is sitting on a flat plate. I do em one at a time. rear trunnion are done with the two flat plates and the press. figure it out. Have also hear of using a ball peen hammer to start the process. that works too. trigger guard is done by resting it on the arbor plates that come with the press, and using the steel bar and a flat plate on the inside of the receiver. The heads "may" get ever so slightly flattened...but I never look at the bottom of my rifle anyway... I should post pics someday. |
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Well, I have a shop full of every tool imaginable... except I seem to have none of the tools required according to the BIY have I appreciate the welcome. Gun folks always seem to be good folks. Any other thoughts are greatly appreciated. |
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The bolt cutter rivet jig will hit every rivet except trigger guard and long rivets. I use a press and a jig for the trigger guard, and for the long rear rivets I freehand them. I could also freehand the trigger guard rivets, but I already have the press and jig. I have a long plinker's jig but can't get it to work reliably in my hands.  |
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Rivets all the way! I was converted to them and now preach them. They not only look better but eliminate future problems (i.e. walk-out, where the gun falls apart due to vibration). They really are not that hard, but do what so many of us did not the first time and read the wealth of knowledge on this forum. 
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