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Posted: 9/3/2007 8:18:48 AM EDT
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Figured I'd post this in General and in here. I posted a week ago or so about a problem I was having with my WASR2 that I recently bought. Today I started hand cycling the bolt to see if I could spot where in the shot cycle this problem was happening. I think I found it. It seems that when the bolt is slamming home on a fresh round, the extractor is not grabbing the rim of the new round (1 out of 60 or so rounds), the rifle doesnt go into battery, and 'click'. Take the mag out, rerack the bolt and 'boom'. Heres my problem... How can I see if its an extractor problem, gas problem, chamber spec problem, or something more sinister like a reciever out of spec that is grabbing the bolt carrier and not allowing enough force to get over the extractor??? ETA: when looking at the bolt face, the extractor doesnt make a perfect circle with the rest of the bolt face, it seems slightly misshapen. I also tried taking the bolt apart, but the pin that retains the firing pin would not budge. Back to AIM it goes... IDEAS? Seen anything like it before? How much ammo should i put through it before I rule out 'break in' problems? I've put 250 or so through it. Ignore the round feeding behind it, this 'almost in' round fails to be fully seated by BC  Any odd wear in there? (brown flakes are from a shaved magazine, Not gun shavings)  Is this too much copper rubbed on feed ramps?  Thanks, mark |
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When faced with problems like this, here's the usual procedure: 1. Clean the rifle THOROUGHLY. This means disassemble everything including the bolt. Use whatever you want to remove the old lubes. You can use a liquid soap cleaner and hot water, cheap paint thinner, a spray-on gun degreaser, etc. Disassembly and clean the magazine. Make SURE the spring is oriented properly. If in doubt, buy/borrow another mag and check how it's assembled. (If you got the mags from the same source, they can ALL be mis-assembled). With the old lube off and everything clean and dry, apply a coat of CLP Breakfree to everything. CLP is one of the very best rust preventing lubes, and the thin coat is to prevent rust not lubricate. You can then actually lubricate everything with CLP or a thin coat of grease on moving parts. With everything lubed, reassemble, checking everything for problems. Problems to look for are: Mis-aligned gas block, or a gas block that's out of round, or otherwise deformed. A gas piston that's not moving freely in the gas tube and gas block. Signs the bolt carrier or bolt are sticking. (Don't mistake the slight interference between the bottom of the bolt carrier with the top of the hammer, but this shouldn't be too heavy an interference). Signs the magazine may not fit properly and is too low, too high or too loose. Check the extractor assembly to be sure it moves freely and isn't damaged or defective. TRY A DIFFERENT MAGAZINE. TRY DIFFERENT AMMO. Check the recoil spring assembly for a bad spring. If you have a buffer in the rifle REMOVE IT. Hand cycling will tell you NOTHING of value about the function. Shooting is the only valid test, so SHOOT IT. If it still gives you trouble either return it to the place you bought it, or see a pro gunsmith. The AK rifle was designed to be the most reliable rifle possible. One that's jamming has something really WRONG with it. If the rifle isn't working after 250 rounds, it probably isn't going to work properly. |
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