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Posted: 1/22/2010 2:28:49 PM EDT
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I just got a Elk River receivered bulgarian 5.45x39 krink here on the EE. guy said it was nice but never fired. I got it. It is beautiful but it keeps short stroking. I only put about 20 rounds through it. mag well is a little tight. not horible but not like my other AKs. This is just pressure on the sides of the mag not front to back. Mags click in no prob. with hammer at uncocked position bolt carrier seems really stiff. stiffer than other AKs again. even when cocked it seems tight. it pulls back all the way but seems to be dragging a little. I know nothing about the Elk River receiver. I know NDK is the favored one though. any thoughts? any help appreciated. here is the sale link. HELP!!!!!
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=122&t=736054 |
| The first thing I do with any new AK is check the hammer and see if it drags on the bolt carrier. I almost always wind up re-shaping or polishing the hammer, removing any obvious angles to make it rounder and smoother. Since the previous owner said he didn't know what kind of trigger group was installed, I'd check that first. |
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Quoted:
I just got a Elk River receivered bulgarian 5.45x39 krink here on the EE. guy said it was nice but never fired. I got it. It is beautiful but it keeps short stroking. I only put about 20 rounds through it. mag well is a little tight. not horible but not like my other AKs. This is just pressure on the sides of the mag not front to back. Mags click in no prob. with hammer at uncocked position bolt carrier seems really stiff. stiffer than other AKs again. even when cocked it seems tight. it pulls back all the way but seems to be dragging a little. I know nothing about the Elk River receiver. I know NDK is the favored one though. any thoughts? any help appreciated. here is the sale link. HELP!!!!! http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=122&t=736054 There is something definetely binding or rubbing on the bolt carrier causing it to short stroke. Try to identify where and when it is rubbing. Sorry, wish I was more of an ak smith but based upon what your experiencing, definetely sounds like something is binding with the carrier causing it to lose its extraction power. |
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I have several AKs built on Elk RIver receivers, and several more to build. The 5.45 Krink receiver is by far the nicest.
That said, on some of my other builds, the rails were too large (they stuck out too much into the center of the receiver, thereby rubbing the bolt carrier and preventing smooth function). This was particularly pronounced at the rear, where I couldn't even insert the bolt carrier despite having the trunion installed correctly (hard to screw up with pre-drilled rivet holes). I ended up having to dremel down the rails somewhat using the light grinding wheel. Even after this, the Elk River receiver is much "tighter" on the bolt carrier than the Nodak spud receivers I have built. Perhaps this is your issue, perhaps not. Worth looking into. |
| Before I would do any work on the gun that is irreversible, I would talk to the person you bought it from and have it sent to a qualified ak smith for inspection. Try and work out payment for shipping and possible repair costs with the person you bought it form. It could be something simple, or it could be something completely wrong with the build. I had a problem with a full sized 74 and sent it in to Mike and Firingline and had it repaired. |
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Since it's never been shot, it should have a nice new coat of paint on everything (finish, park, whatever you'd like to refer to it as). Since you only put 20 rounds through it you may want to consider sending several mags through there. It would probably be a pain in the ass because you'll be manually charging it every time but when you took it apart you may very well be able to locate the source of the binding based on where paint seems to be gone excessive where it shouldn't be. This could very likely reveal the source of your problem.
Try and mentally picture where any and all contacts are going to be on your bolt carrier. I can already give you a hint that they're going to be your rails internally and your FCG (specifically, the face of your hammer). Something tells me this is going to ultimately be fixed with a Dremel and a few minutes of your time (careful time, that is). And since nobody mentioned this I'll say it and please understand I'm not trying to be condescending to you: make sure you don't have one of those idiotic recoil buffers or anything and that all looks well with your guide/spring mechanism. But look at your rails and your hammer. It could be a simple fix such as a new FCG. If I HAD to bet money I'd probably wager the hammer is your most likely culprit. |
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Quoted:
Since it's never been shot, it should have a nice new coat of paint on everything (finish, park, whatever you'd like to refer to it as). Since you only put 20 rounds through it you may want to consider sending several mags through there. It would probably be a pain in the ass because you'll be manually charging it every time but when you took it apart you may very well be able to locate the source of the binding based on where paint seems to be gone excessive where it shouldn't be. This could very likely reveal the source of your problem. Try and mentally picture where any and all contacts are going to be on your bolt carrier. I can already give you a hint that they're going to be your rails internally and your FCG (specifically, the face of your hammer). Something tells me this is going to ultimately be fixed with a Dremel and a few minutes of your time (careful time, that is). And since nobody mentioned this I'll say it and please understand I'm not trying to be condescending to you: make sure you don't have one of those idiotic recoil buffers or anything and that all looks well with your guide/spring mechanism. But look at your rails and your hammer. It could be a simple fix such as a new FCG. If I HAD to bet money I'd probably wager the hammer is your most likely culprit. It's either this or the rails. It's not the chamber b/c it sounds like the bolt carrier isn't moving properly. Worth checking the hammer first obviously. He didn't say that it was refinished (I assumed it wasn't) but definitely a good idea to remove metal on the rails as conservatively as possible. generally speaking there is quite a bit of room for error in removing metal from the rails *if that is the problem*. Go slow and check it constantly. |
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