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Posted: 3/20/2016 7:12:24 PM EDT
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Oh, how I do hate installing these little bastards. I just buggered my gas block install and managed to bend the tip of my Geissele punch. I can't get the pin to go the last 1/8 to 1/10 of an inch in...
already soaked it in lubricant. I think it has simply expanded a bit too much. |
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If it's mushroomed hit the edges up with a file first. And try a c-clamp to squeeze it the rest of the way in like posted above... What's the gas block material? Gas block is steel, as to what grade...whatever BCM has them made out of. I've applied some more lube and hit it up with a file. I'll try the c-clamp method in the morning. |
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Oh, how I do hate installing these little bastards. I just buggered my gas block install and managed to bend the tip of my Geissele punch. I can't get the pin to go the last 1/8 to 1/10 of an inch in... already soaked it in lubricant. I think it has simply expanded a bit too much. Why is it expanding? Use a nail punch, the type with the small indentation in the middle, it will keep the pin centered and allow you to drive it all the way in. Do you have the barrel / block secured while you are driving it in? |
| I use the PRI roll pin starting punch, and always put a little grease on the pin first. Once it's as far in as the starter will allow, then switch to either a large nail set or just a large pin punch. Always put a little grease on it helps a ton, especially pins going into aluminum. |
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Sweet Jesus, Captain Caveman! If you're mushrooming the pin, and bending your punch, you're hitting it WAY too hard.
Smaller hammer, and lighten up on it. It doesn't take a hulk. I work most roll pins with either a 4oz or a 6oz jeweler's hammer, and usually don't need more than a 2-3 inch swing. I have never had a pin that wouldn't go with just that, and I've never needed to use any kind of lube. |
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Sweet Jesus, Captain Caveman! If you're mushrooming the pin, and bending your punch, you're hitting it WAY too hard. Smaller hammer, and lighten up on it. It doesn't take a hulk. I work most roll pins with either a 4oz or a 6oz jeweler's hammer, and usually don't need more than a 2-3 inch swing. I have never had a pin that wouldn't go with just that, and I've never needed to use any kind of lube. This. Make sure it's lubed, and you are using to correct punch |
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In summery of above posts....
1. - Use a COIL PIN 2. - Bevel the end of the pin you are inserting, I usually just rub and rotate it on 220 grit sandpaper 3. - Use a Roll Pin holding punch 4. - Use a lubricant in the hole and on the pin Following these steps should result in an easy installation. 
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The one I hate is that damn front pivot pin detent, that little sucker went flying on me last night and I have been on my hands and knees with a magnet trying to find it since!!!!!! The clevis pin mod helped save me from having to search for flying pins. After losing 2 gas tube pins, I discovered the local industrial supply place had that size pin for less than a penny. I bought a nickel's worth for spares. |
| I didn't get to work on it this morning because I was running late for work. I'm definitely ordering some coil pins and a new punch to replace the bent one. Hopefully the next two will go more smoothly, because I've been totally failing at this gas tube thing... |
I booger'd up a gas tube pin once because on my initial try the pin did not line up with the holes on the exiting side. Once that happens that pin will not go through. I got another 5/64 roll pin and drove it in from the opposite side while the first pin was still in, and drove out the first pin with the second pin (basically using first pin as a slave pin to line all the holes up). That worked pretty good 
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I can't get the pin to go the last 1/8 to 1/10 of an inch in... Watch the Little Crow Gun Works video on the subject. In my experience the problem is the gas tube will "roll" a little once the pin is through the first wall and makes it hit the second wall. I run a 5/64" drill bit in the hole just to make sure there are no problems. |
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The one I hate is that damn front pivot pin detent, that little sucker went flying on me last night and I have been on my hands and knees with a magnet trying to find it since!!!!!! This happened to me a few days ago, luckily I found it after a few minutes of searching. Dang carpet.... |
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This happened to me a few days ago, luckily I found it after a few minutes of searching. Dang carpet.... Quoted:
Quoted:
The one I hate is that damn front pivot pin detent, that little sucker went flying on me last night and I have been on my hands and knees with a magnet trying to find it since!!!!!! This happened to me a few days ago, luckily I found it after a few minutes of searching. Dang carpet.... My wife found it this morning when she got up, and it was not even close to where I had been looking!! |
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And to top it all off, after the wife found the detent, I put the damn thing together and it would not function correctly, come to find out, I measured wrong and didn't mill the FCG pocket deep enough!!!!, so have to take it all apart, put it back in the jig and mill the bottom of the pocket!
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| I had a heck of a time getting the roll pin in my Diamondhead low profile gas block. I tried clamping it in my vise, but it just rotated with every blow. I was afraid to REALLY clamp down on it, as I didn't want to mar it (don't have non-marring jaws). I filed a bevel on the pin, used lube and the proper roll pin punch, and it was still a nightmare to get in. I could not get it centered, no matter how much I pounded on it. It's about 1/32" off one side, but the gas tube is retained, so I figure that's good enough. |
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If you start using the coiled instead of split roll pins all of your headaches will go away.I get mine from McMaster-Carr. I'll never go back to the regular ones. Especially that stubborn 1/16" ejector roll pin and that evil trigger guard one. I hate the coiled ones. The split ones I can take a pair of needle nose too and make one end a little smaller and they go in easily. |
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I had a heck of a time getting the roll pin in my Diamondhead low profile gas block. I tried clamping it in my vise, but it just rotated with every blow. I was afraid to REALLY clamp down on it, as I didn't want to mar it (don't have non-marring jaws). I filed a bevel on the pin, used lube and the proper roll pin punch, and it was still a nightmare to get in. I could not get it centered, no matter how much I pounded on it. It's about 1/32" off one side, but the gas tube is retained, so I figure that's good enough. https://www.precisionreflex.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=186782&CAT=4215 |
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I've lost a couple pivot pin detents, but in general haven't had nearly as much trouble with them as I have the gas tube role pin... I think the whole "install roll pins with pliers" is in general harder than just using proper tools, EXCEPT for the gas tube pin. I was having a problem getting that roll pin started even with proper tools and used a pair of taped up channel locks just to "get it started" and SWISH before I knew it the pin was basically in! Just needed a couple more whacks with the punch and Bob's your uncle. |
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Quoted: I hate the coiled ones. The split ones I can take a pair of needle nose too and make one end a little smaller and they go in easily. Quoted: Quoted: If you start using the coiled instead of split roll pins all of your headaches will go away.I get mine from McMaster-Carr. I'll never go back to the regular ones. Especially that stubborn 1/16" ejector roll pin and that evil trigger guard one. I hate the coiled ones. The split ones I can take a pair of needle nose too and make one end a little smaller and they go in easily. I broke a 1/16" straight punch and turned a roll pin punch into a pretzel trying to get an ejector pin out of a bolt. Switched to stainless steel coiled pins and the difference is night and day. They go in and out with half the effort and they stay in place like they are supposed to. I try to stay humble and I'm open for suggestions but not when experience proves otherwise. |
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In summery of above posts.... 1. - Use a COIL PIN 2. - Bevel the end of the pin you are inserting, I usually just rub and rotate it on 220 grit sandpaper 3. - Use a Roll Pin holding punch 4. - Use a lubricant in the hole and on the pin Following these steps should result in an easy installation. That's how I do it. The bevel really helps. |
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That's how I do it. The bevel really helps. Quoted:
Quoted:
In summery of above posts.... 1. - Use a COIL PIN 2. - Bevel the end of the pin you are inserting, I usually just rub and rotate it on 220 grit sandpaper 3. - Use a Roll Pin holding punch 4. - Use a lubricant in the hole and on the pin Following these steps should result in an easy installation. That's how I do it. The bevel really helps. I stick 'em in a drill and hold the spinning pin against a file until there is a noticeable taper when held up to the light. So far the pin that ever gave me much trouble was the trigger guard one... seemed visibly larger than the holes in the lower. |
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clevis pin Quoted:
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I never have any issues with roll pins. It's the pivot spring and detent that I highly detest  clevis pin On Youtube there are several CheaperthanDirt videos that show lower assembly steps, and the way they do the pivot pin detent and spring made it super easy. Just use an allen wrench (I think it was 1/4") in place of the pin to keep the detent in, then slide the wrench and actual pin over together til the detent pops in place. It was really easy. |
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