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Posted: 6/2/2009 8:12:53 AM EDT
I will be assembling my first lower this weekend and hope to use the Vice Grip method as demonstrated in the sticky for the pins HERE . It appears to be the cleanest method and since this is my first build I dont want to muck up the lower.  The lower and parts kit are RRA. Thanks to all who took the time to put this information together.
Can you seasoned veterans recommend a punch kit with the most common sizes of punches needed? I have seen Brownells mentioned but not specific punch sizes. Thanks in advance. |
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I put a lower together this way and I can't emphasize enough to USE MORE THAN ENOUGH TAPE! I put a couple of layers on mine and made some scratch marks on one side of the trigger guard as well as the bolt release. If you're using the punch then don't push the pin in all the way, thats where my marks come from.
I don't really care about the marks since you'll never see them or won't look at that area and it's my SHTF rifle so scratches are welcome. |
Lots of blue painters tape on hand ready to go.
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May I suggest this: http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=125&t=635955 I bought it and used it on my 3 builds. |
| I just put together lower using RRA part kit. You are lucky because the roll pins from that kit have thinner wall and it's very easy to push them in with Vice Grips and finish it with the proper size drill bit or steel rod. When installing bolt stop be careful not to slip of the bump with the jaws because it will strip anodizing of it. So put only enough tape so you have good grip on the left side of the bump and in the same time protect the lower from marring with the pliers serration which can cut through the tape. |
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Quoted:
I just put together lower using RRA part kit. You are lucky because the roll pins from that kit have thinner wall and it's very easy to push them in with Vice Grips and finish it with the proper size drill bit or steel rod. When installing bolt stop be careful not to slip of the bump with the jaws because it will strip anodizing of it. So put only enough tape so you have good grip on the left side of the bump and in the same time protect the lower from marring with the pliers serration which can cut through the tape. +1 to this. The protected vise grips work really good for the trigger guard. As stated above, on the bolt catch they can slip off the left lug resulting in the sharp teeth of the grips cutting through the tape and removing anodizing. Personally, I find a 3/32 punch easier for this part, but to each his own I guess. Also, if you use vise grips, the 10w size works better than 7w. If you use a punch for the bolt catch, place the front of the receiver against a solid object so the hammer taps to the punch are solid and the receiver is not bouncing around. (bottom picture) It's commonly mentioned to support the lower trigger guard ear which is true, however, the trigger guard should always be in place before starting the roll pin. "Just starting" the roll pin without the guard in place can result in the ears breaking even if the lower ear is supported. Here are a few more pictures of various methods:  
 
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