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Posted: 6/16/2012 6:25:32 PM EDT
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Quick question. If I zero on this target at 25 meters with these iron sights set to "300," do I need to click it over to "200" after I'm done zeroing?
Before you give a knee-jerk answer, please consider the instructions on the bottom of the target. When using the old M16 rear sight, you would click to a different setting while you zero.  
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Sight system length? Muzzle velocity? What bullet? What trajectory is the rear sight set up for?
With M193 in a 16" gun you get 2900 fps ish. So with a 25 yard zero, you recross zero at 340 yards. There is tons of crap coming into this. For your question, I like the 50/200 yard zero. Hold over after that is not too hard out to 400 with a 4 MOA red dot (or irons here). With 25/300 ish, your 100-200 yard zero is inches off. It gets dicey ranging (for me). So yes. I'd click back to 200 and hope to never have to shoot as far as that sight is good for. BTW, shooting at 400+ yards with irons for me, is a bitch with my eyes. I got out shot by a girl two weeks ago. Her eyes were beautiful and she could see a hair on a fleas ass at 400. I could barely see the plate and frame without the FSP in my way. |
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This is on a standard M4 that is issued to me. Green paint tipped M855 ammo. 14.5" barrel. Not sure what the rear sight is set up for.
At first, I shot with it set at "200." After adjusting left and right, and re-firing with it set to "300," I can tell it only makes a few inches difference at 25m. EDIT, PS: Nobody in my unit is really confident on how to set up this rear sight. They're dependent upon optics. Uncle Sam just gave me eye surgery and I have about 20/10 vision now. The crisp edges of the iron sights are more accurate than the blob of a red dot, no matter how low I adjust the power. |
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Simple answer: Yes.
More complicated answer: What you just described is a starting point. This will "get you on paper" at 100 yards. Best bet is to zero 2" high at 100 yards with the 200-yard setting. Then you will be about right on at 200. Verify and zero at actual distances if at all possible. Then come back to 25 meters, and you'll notice that the little hash between 300 and 400 yard settings is closest to zero. |
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There is a target for the M4, the grid is slightly different, the line is for M16 zeroing, and you would use the 300 mark for your M4.
ETA: The M4 target will also have instructions printed on it. You'll adjust the lever to 300, as opposed to turning the drum on your carry handle. On a M16 you'd use the line, as opposed to the Z. |
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Quoted:
This is on a standard M4 that is issued to me. Green paint tipped M855 ammo. 14.5" barrel. Not sure what the rear sight is set up for. At first, I shot with it set at "200." After adjusting left and right, and re-firing with it set to "300," I can tell it only makes a few inches difference at 25m. EDIT, PS: Nobody in my unit is really confident on how to set up this rear sight. They're dependent upon optics. Uncle Sam just gave me eye surgery and I have about 20/10 vision now. The crisp edges of the iron sights are more accurate than the blob of a red dot, no matter how low I adjust the power. I am an Army Small Arms Master Gunner. For the M4, use the 300 mark. The line is for the M16A4, to account for the longer sight radius. Leave it at 300 for the Popup IRET range. The windage clicks are the same value as the carry handle, three clicks moves one centimeter square. Zero as close as possible to the lower quarter of the 4cm circle, leaving you about 7" high at 150, increasing hit percentages at mid ranges. Your final zero target should look like this.. 
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Quoted:
Quoted:
This is on a standard M4 that is issued to me. Green paint tipped M855 ammo. 14.5" barrel. Not sure what the rear sight is set up for. At first, I shot with it set at "200." After adjusting left and right, and re-firing with it set to "300," I can tell it only makes a few inches difference at 25m. EDIT, PS: Nobody in my unit is really confident on how to set up this rear sight. They're dependent upon optics. Uncle Sam just gave me eye surgery and I have about 20/10 vision now. The crisp edges of the iron sights are more accurate than the blob of a red dot, no matter how low I adjust the power. I am an Army Small Arms Master Gunner. For the M4, use the 300 mark. The line is for the M16A4, to account for the longer sight radius. Leave it at 300 for the Popup IRET range. The windage clicks are the same value as the carry handle, three clicks moves one centimeter square. Good post. Thanks for the info. |
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This is on a standard M4 that is issued to me. Green paint tipped M855 ammo. 14.5" barrel. Not sure what the rear sight is set up for. At first, I shot with it set at "200." After adjusting left and right, and re-firing with it set to "300," I can tell it only makes a few inches difference at 25m. EDIT, PS: Nobody in my unit is really confident on how to set up this rear sight. They're dependent upon optics. Uncle Sam just gave me eye surgery and I have about 20/10 vision now. The crisp edges of the iron sights are more accurate than the blob of a red dot, no matter how low I adjust the power. I am an Army Small Arms Master Gunner. For the M4, use the 300 mark. The line is for the M16A4, to account for the longer sight radius. Leave it at 300 for the Popup IRET range. The windage clicks are the same value as the carry handle, three clicks moves one centimeter square. Good post. Thanks for the info. Welcome. Plus, I added more. |
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Thanks a lot, cvtrpr! My final zero is actually a little high. That would explain why I was shooting over the heads of the 150m targets. But yes, I did zero and qual with the rear sight set to 300. At least now I know for sure to keep doing that. Jm81, are you AC or RC? If you are ARNG, i would highly suggest bugging your training NCO to send you to the Army National Guard Marksmanship Training Center, for the SAMG Course. They also can do a Mobile Training Team at your location. Excellent instructors and invaluable knowledge for your unit. |
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With the 25/300 zero on this sight, I'd aim a touch "low" on the 200 meter target. When I was ranging my M4 I wasn't shooting COM at that range, more like where the upper abdomen/belly button would be to get hits.
But then, I was also that guy that could get one flier every time I zero'd, and the idiot working that electronic pop-up target range (I don't know what it's called, I'm Navy!) didn't tell me any fine tune adjustments. YMMV ... |
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Quoted:
With the 25/300 zero on this sight, I'd aim a touch "low" on the 200 meter target. When I was ranging my M4 I wasn't shooting COM at that range, more like where the upper abdomen/belly button would be to get hits. But then, I was also that guy that could get one flier every time I zero'd, and the idiot working that electronic pop-up target range (I don't know what it's called, I'm Navy!) didn't tell me any fine tune adjustments. YMMV ... Were you in NIACT? I went through the one at Ft. Jackson a few months ago (my second time through there actually). Different instructors seem to go into the details to different degrees, but according to the manual you should be aiming like so with the iron sights: 
I found the aimpoints in the diagram to be very reliable with the 25/300 zero. I was the highest-scoring rifle shooter in my platoon. 
When my class went to the LOMAH range (the one I think you are referring to with the sensors that tell you where the bullets are going), I volunteered to be one of the range operators. As I do a fair amount of shooting on my own, I brought my binoculars so that I could actually see the impacts of the rounds. They told us to not coach the shooters too much, but for the people who had prior weapons experience, I tried to give as much feedback as possible. Some people were shooting so low that the rounds were landing short and then bouncing up over the targets! The sensors could only detect the rounds as they passed through the plane of the target, so just looking at the sensor readout, it looked like they were shooting way high! But looking through the binos, I could see the actual trajectory of their shots. |
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