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Posted: 7/27/2012 11:01:12 AM EDT
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I'm going to be putting together my first real all parts build on a 308 AR and am working on a parts list. I have a tactical machining TM-10 lower on the way and plan on getting the TM stripped upper to match.
From researching I found that the DPMS parts kit uses a different style bolt catch pin, and the TM-10 should come with its own pin so you can still use a DPMS parts kit. Since I don't plan on using the pistol grip or the trigger I was wondering if I could just order individual parts instead of the kit. Can anyone recommend a good place to get the individual lower parts and maybe where I could find a list of the parts I need. I want to go all out on this build, but I don't want to just buy the most expensive parts, I'm trying to find a good balance. I want to get a good trigger, like a 2 stage, or maybe a geissele or a JP enterprises, price matters but I don't want to sacrifice quality. JP has a few triggers I was looking at, the EZ trigger is one and the lower cost Adjustable Trigger kit. They look like the same thing except the EZ trigger comes with their speed hammer. Also was looking at a timney trigger that sounds pretty good. What kind of triggers are you guys running? Any advice or recommendations you guys might have would help me out! I'm also not sure if I will need the .154 or .169 pins? Then I need to get a barrel, I have seen some pics with a stainless bead blasted looking barrel and really like that look but I'm not sure what brand it was or where to look to purchase. Rainier arms has some of their own branded barrels that look similar but of course they are out of stock like many places are. I want to go 16in or 18in, trying to make an all purpose rifle that is on the lighter side but can still reach out long range. I'm sure I will have more questions, and I will update this thread with pics as I get parts and progress on the build. Feel free to post up your own builds or advice, I would appreciate it! EDIT: got it done! thanks for all your help. 
here's my build list so far, just need a few accessories and an optic to finish it up, plus the AAC SDN-6 suppressor will be the cherry on top 6 months from now. I think I did pretty good comparing what I got to whats out there for the same price. 7.62 AR –––––––––––––– tm-10 billet lower: $230 dpms assembled upper w/charging handle: $185 buffer+spring: $33 yhm gas block: $26 16" rainier ultra match ss barrel: $403 dpms lpk: $65 apex handguard + top rail and 2in bottom rail: $359 apex 308 barrel nut: $35 dpms bcg: $220 aac 51T 7.62 brakeout: $100 used magpul ubr stock: $200 used magpul miad grip: $25 gas tube w/ roll pin: $10 ––––––––––––––- total =$1891 |
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I just built up my lower on Mon. I have the TM308 upper/lower set. Yes, the lower comes with the front and rear takedown pins and two screws for the bolt catch and rear detent pin for the takedown pin. Also for your trigger a standard small pin trigger is what you need. I went with a SSA-E and it went in with no problems.
The only lower parts you will need are the bolt catch and spring, mag release, spring and button, detent springs and pins for the front and rear takedown pins. You should be GTG. |
| Do yourself a favor and buy the Rainier Arms 18" Ultra Match barrel. Everyone raves about these barrels and their accuracy. I bought one in 20" but I am STILL waiting to get it back from the shop that is permanently attaching the brake. Here is the link: http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=2236 I'd get one before they are gone. They go FAST and are replaced SLOW... |
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Yea I want to get the rainier select 308 barrel, but its out of stock with no ETA. They have the ultra match in stock but they are twice the price, so I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet.. See my above post! LOL! In all seriousness, the barrel is the one place I wouldn't skimp... |
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you make a good point. Why 18" over 16" though? Well to me the extra 3 ounces saved over the 18" isn't worth the velocity lost at the longer ranges that you said you want to shoot at. Plus they are the same price so.. I went with the 20". My rifle is a hunting rig with possible long range shooting whereas some people go the other way. It's really about what you want to concentrate on and the level of $$ you want to spend. |
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I just got my TM308 lower, and it did not come with take down pins. My rifle is an armalite barrel, armalite bolt carrier assy, JD machine upper.
Things I have learned: Some people say if you use an armalite barrel, use an armalite bolt. I did, I don't know if it matters. My bolt carrier is cut for a forward assist, so I got a forward assist upper... but the upper is DPMS pattern, and the bolt carrier is armalite, so the forward assist does not forward assist. The JD machine upper and the TM lower did not mate together properly, and I spent 3 hours with a file getting them to fit. I don't know whether it's the JD upper, or the TM lower that is out of spec. The upper does not center perfectly on the lower, either. The back of the upper is offset to the left, as I recall. I need to get out the calipers and figure out where the issue is, I can't tell by looking. The upside is that now the fit is amazing, although my pins are a little tight. I'm going to see if they break in a bit before I remove more material. I have an RRA two stage 'match' trigger on standard AR trigger pins. For $100, it's OK, but it's a little too light... I need to measure it, but I may go for something with a slightly heavier pull. It also seems a little inconsistent, and unpredictable. It will probably get taken out at some point. The TM lower, on the back, near the stock, looks 'hand formed' on a bench grinder. I have an 80%, and a 100% TM lower, and both are the same. While it's only cosmetic, it's not confidence inspiring. Someone needs to reprogram the CNC machine, and do this right. All of that aside, I shot it today for the first time, and it runs perfectly. |
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I just got my TM308 lower, and it did not come with take down pins. My rifle is an armalite barrel, armalite bolt carrier assy, JD machine upper. Things I have learned: Some people say if you use an armalite barrel, use an armalite bolt. I did, I don't know if it matters. My bolt carrier is cut for a forward assist, so I got a forward assist upper... but the upper is DPMS pattern, and the bolt carrier is armalite, so the forward assist does not forward assist. The JD machine upper and the TM lower did not mate together properly, and I spent 3 hours with a file getting them to fit. I don't know whether it's the JD upper, or the TM lower that is out of spec. The upper does not center perfectly on the lower, either. The back of the upper is offset to the left, as I recall. I need to get out the calipers and figure out where the issue is, I can't tell by looking. The upside is that now the fit is amazing, although my pins are a little tight. I'm going to see if they break in a bit before I remove more material. I have an RRA two stage 'match' trigger on standard AR trigger pins. For $100, it's OK, but it's a little too light... I need to measure it, but I may go for something with a slightly heavier pull. It also seems a little inconsistent, and unpredictable. It will probably get taken out at some point. The TM lower, on the back, near the stock, looks 'hand formed' on a bench grinder. I have an 80%, and a 100% TM lower, and both are the same. While it's only cosmetic, it's not confidence inspiring. Someone needs to reprogram the CNC machine, and do this right. All of that aside, I shot it today for the first time, and it runs perfectly. any pics |
| Well TM now has their own uppers so it would be silly to buy an upper from another company, the 308 system is not like the AR-15's where you can use one company's lowers and another's uppers. I know TM made sure their lower works with DPMS and now their upper, and that should be all they care about. It is a DPMS patterned set not a JD, IRA, or SI-Defense. That is the problem with people building their own 308's. Manufactures build so DPMS parts will work it doesn't mean that different manufactures will be cross compatible though. The rear of the lower from TM is different than it used to be as well (smaller so fixed stocks blend better). |
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Well I was talking to TM and they said the uppers would be in stock this week, but I called today and they said the anodizing on the batch was screwed up so they have to find another anodizer and have them re done and I was told it could now be months until the uppers are available.
So I guess I'm going with another companies upper now, I was looking at Fulton Armorys titan uppers, they are less money ($170) and look decent. Anyone used a FA upper on a TM lower? Or should I just get the DPMS? |
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I have used the DPMS upper and BCG from Midwayusa with the TM-10 lower, the fit is good. Midway should have the uppers back in stock next week. Sign up to be notified when they arrive.
Midwayusa: $189.99 dpms-upper-receiver-assembled-lr-308-a3-flat-top-matte I put the RRA 2 stage trigger in mine. ETA: JSE must of just got new inventory: BCG ($210) and Upper now in stock. $165 DPMS 308 A3 Flattop Upper Assembled ETA2 JSEsurplus BCGs sold out. |
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Thanks for the link, I had the BCG in my cart earlier but didn't pull the trigger and I missed out. I ordered the dpms upper though.
Still have not decided on a barrel, I am now considering a 14.5in with a 15in modular tube handguard with a kx3 partially tucked under the tube. I don't have any good long range shooting spots out here so I doubt I will ever be shooting past 400yrds, and from what I read on muzzle velocities the 14.5 only loses about 150-200fps over an 18. Not sure what I'm going to go with yet though. |
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Midway has DPMS LR-308 BCG in Stock. It looks like they are limiting customers to 1 each per order. Coupon codes: Ar15825 $25 off $200 purchase or AR15835 for $35 off $300 purchase (expires 8-31-2012)
$259.99 dpms-bolt-carrier-assembly-lr-308-308-winchester-chrome $239.99 dpms-bolt-carrier-assembly-lr-308-308-winchester-matte The DPMS upper $189.99 DPMS Upper Receiver Assembled LR-308 A3 Flat-Top Matte (out of stock now. Can back order) JSESURPLUS currently has 34 uppers left. |
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Yea I got the upper already from jse thanks to your link. I will order that BCG from midway, and thanks for the coupons. I know I need to check the headspace when installing the barrel is that correct? Which headspace gages do you recommend? I'll be honest with you on the couple ars I've built i never bothered checking headspace and the bolts and barrels are from different manufacturers. For a 308 ar just be ware that the armalite and dpms style bolts are headspaced differently |
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What do you mean spaced differently? Is there something I should be checking for? I would feel better knowing I did everything right, and the headspace gages are part of that. Not worth damaging my brand new rifle I don't think, but I haven't built one yet so I'm not sure how important it is.
I ordered the dpms bcg from midway, and a YHM low pro gas block. Threw 1000 rnds of once fired 308 brass and 1000 hornady 150grn FMJs on the order too. 
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headspaces gauges are always a good idea.
The headspace differently I am not exactly sure on the difference maybe there really isn't any.. something I just read and can't find again. I like to try and match barrel extension and bolt manufacturer from same company and then you are almost guaranteed a perfect headspace. I think I read somewhere that armalite bolts have 6 lugs and dpms style have 7...? ar 15s are all the same so may not be a great parralel on not checking headspace. Any new build I have just made sure the round will chamber and the bolt closes snugly. I shoot the first round with out my face right on it and then look at the brass. not enough headspace and the bolt wouldn't close, too much and you can see your brass stretch and or show signs of case head separation it would also be pretty evident to a reloader when massive amounts of brass need to be trimmed off. There is so much hype and mystical voodoo around headspace. Yes it is safe and smart to check your head space but it's not exactly the gun exploding in your face scenario that it's made out to be You are obviously a reloader do you measure how much you bump your shoulders back when you resize? oversizing could have just as much effect as an overly generous chamber all that said a field gauge is the ultimate check to see if you have excessive headspace, if your bolt will close on a field gauge you have an unsafe rifle. field gauges are slightly larger than a no go gage and will tell you the maximum tolerance, a go gauge is kinda useless if your round will chamber and the bolt closes that's as good as a go gauge if your bolt closes on a no go gauge you are at or above the maximum headspace the field gauge is used as a final check if a bolt will close on a no go gauge to determine if the rifle is safe |
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thanks for all the info Obo, I do not reload myself but I plan to start one day, until then I have a friend load em for me.
I got some parts in, and more on the way, getting close to having it all. Still need some lower parts, a trigger, a barrel nut and wrench, upper vise block, aac muzzle break cus I just ordered a 762-sdn-6 can  , probably a few other things im forgetting but I got the big ticket items.
Heres a sort of mockup with some parts. 
Had a dumb question about the dpms BCG, it doesn't seem to have a cotter pin like a ar15, how do you get the firing pin out? |
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Which barrel did you get? It looks good so far! I'm getting close on my build also. I should have my rail next week, then I have to order a bolt and gas tube and last some glass! I got the rainier ultra match 16in. guess I am going to order the standard lpk from midway and the last few parts. I wanted the aac muzzle brake but its oos everywhere so I'm going to go with the brakeout which is cheaper. |
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brownells was out of the wrench or gas tube. :(
ended up ordering the barrel nut from Apex, they make their own barrel nuts and they claim its higher quality than the dpms nut. then I got the gas tube and wrench from JSE. I think I have everything now minus some accessories. Should be starting to assemble this next weekend 
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well i got the bbl nut wrench today and i guess i got the wrong one, it doesnt fit my standard dpms 308 barrel nut
what wrench do i need? my google fu must be weak today cus the only one i see is the one i have which is this one. http://www.jsesurplus.com/lar-15ar-10308freefloatwrench.aspx 
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Thanks, yeah it was just a standard ar wrench that fit. I found a local store that had the tapco armorers tool and got it done!
finished product, just need some optics. Considering doing a 1x4 scope or similar, what do you guys think? I was also thinking ACOG but I don't want to be locked in at 3 or 4x. Never have had a CQB type 4x or 5x scope before so I thought it would be nice to try that.
problem I am having now is the take down pins are super tight, I have to use a punch to get them out. You think they will just break in or is there something I can do to get them to loosen up? the up side of that is there is absolutely no wobble between the upper and lower. |
First trip to the range was today! She shot perfect, no problems and very accurate but I didn't go for any groups yet mostly just function check and a quick zero of my scope with some ammo that I won't be shooting regularly. Overall I am very happy how it turned out and the direction I went with this rifle. Thanks again to those who offered up advice.
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First trip to the range was today! She shot perfect, no problems and very accurate but I didn't go for any groups yet mostly just function check and a quick zero of my scope with some ammo that I won't be shooting regularly. Overall I am very happy how it turned out and the direction I went with this rifle. Thanks again to those who offered up advice. http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/3425/imag0457l.jpg I built a TM lower on a DPMS LR-308 upper for a close relative a short while ago...same situation (super tight fit between upper & lower), it will only come apart with dift punches to the pins for seperation of the upper/lower half's etc. It does not effect the functioning though, it does help for accuracy though... The build does look very nice though...Good Luck with it. |
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