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Posted: 12/27/2016 10:36:14 AM EDT
| So, I'm delving into 3-gun. I have a list of parts I think I'll be using but I'd like to compare it to others. This is my first 3-gun SPECIFIC AR but I don't like to buy things twice so I am going top shelf off the bat - but that also doesn't mean I'm going to spend $200 on a bolt release. Lightweight is the key which is generally why I think people go billet assemblies. With that being said, let's see your complete setups from rail pistol grip to muzzle device. Please be descriptive even if it's something as simple as saying 'titanium buffer retainer' or something. I know 3-gun is all about weight and accuracy. I'm competitive so I'd like for my rifle to be as well. |
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I am in the same boat as well so ill be curious to see what the responses are. I shot cowboy action at the competitive level for years and what I learned from that is that simplicity is everything. My plan was;
Standard upper and lower drop in trigger 16" GM barrel with midlength gas tube competition brake aluminum ACE skeleton stock Hogue forend with overmold maybe a JP silent capture buffer? Magpul MOE+ handguard Most of the main components I have in a different rifle and it has almost no recoil and shoots as smooth as butter. List subject to change according to this thread though...Like I said, I'm no expert. |
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I've lost track of all my components so I can only offer what sticks out. FWIW, I think the 3 most important are a good barrel, trigger and optic.
Barrel: Voodoo 16.5 light weight Trigger: Velocity Optic: Alternating between Swarovski Z6i BRTI, Vortex Razor 1-6x and Leupold VX6 FireDot BDC |
| Any reason some of you are going 16" on the barrels? I've noticed most barrels on the professional circuit favor the 18". I feel like I should be automatically looking at brands like Wilson Combat. What does everyone generally pick for the chambering? I know the benefits of .223 Wylde but do most just go 5.56 NATO anyways? I've done some reading but there is no real cookie cutter rifle setup to use so I'm just trying to get as much information as possible. |
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Although I'm seeing more 16" barrels, especially the Stretch 16, I think the 18" barrel is still the most popular by a small margin. I used to shoot a White Oak 18" and then a Noveske 18" for a long time before switching over to the Voodoo since it was the shortest barrel while maintaining rifle length gas. It shoots soft but not as soft as my 18s but it definitely weighs a lot less.
I think the deciding factor is if you will be attending a lot of regional or national matches where long distance shooting is more prevalent. FWIW, my 16.5 is very accurate with 55gr bulk reloads. I shot HaH earlier this month and hit the 620y target on the first shot. Best of luck. |
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I have an Adams Arms COR rifle, that uses their 16.5" rifle length gas barrel. Nice barrel, but I had to remove all the weights out of the buffer to get it to cycle reliably, even using their lightweight carrier. The piston system requires a little more gas than DI guns- which is why I had the reliability problems I'm sure.
I personally don't like lightweight rifles, I find they are more difficult to steady for long range targets. And I don't notice the weight of the heavier rifle on close range targets. The .05 seconds you lose on a transition with a heavier rifle just doesn't add up to much when you consider the number of steps and gun transitions in a 50 second stage. If your intended matches are stand and shoot or all in-bay hoser stages, light rifle is as good as a heavy. On the chambering, from a reputable manufacturer, for the target size and distances in matches it really doesn't matter. I shoot 55g FMJ at all targets, including the 620 yard target at HaH. But it did take me 2 shots to hit, so SuperSet got me by a shot. (I also had a 3rd round on the way before the RO called HIT on the 2nd shot, for good measure.) But other than this match, and the Missouri 3 Gun, I've never shot over 500 in a match, and 90%+ targets at any given match are under 300. A 15" tall target at 300 is a huge 5MOA, so extreme accuracy isn't required. Pick the barrel profile you want, in the length you want, and if 5.56 and .223W are both available, then worry about the chamber. I wouldn't go with a .223REM though, too many potential issues with reliability unless you want to spend a lot of time case gauging every round. I'm a bulk ammo guy, so I expect my rifle to function with anything. |
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The real question isn't gear, it is your ability and skill. How do you think you will perform/finish, what are your realistic expectations/goals?
Whether a pro, major or club level event, gear only matters at the very top where tenths of a second decide 1st from the losers. Any top level shooter can take stock a off the rack $500 rifle, pistol and shotgun and beat the vast majority of 3gun shooters out there regardless of barrel length/accuracy, trigger, or other do-dads. Skill, reliability and knowing how to run you guns is far more important than all else. I always recommend new 3gun shooters don't focus on gear, instead bring what you have and spend your money instead on ammo and range time. Those two will make all the difference from being a good shooter vs a not good shooter. Every year I see people come out after spending thousands of dollars on the latest gear and fail miserably because they can't shoot for crap. My setup is AR frankinbuild 14.5" pinned barrel Primary Arms mico dot ALG ACT trigger Magpul STR stock G17 Red fiber front site Polished trigger parts Mag well extension Mossberg 930 SPX +1 extension At club level events I typically finish in the top 1/3 to 1/2, sometimes top 10 depending on who else is there. I could do better but have not put the time or ammo into making that happen. Long story short, it isn't about the gear it is about the shooter. Practice, practice, practice, then worry about gear as you chew your way to the top (if that is your goal). Good luck. |
| I understand it's not all about the gear and more the skill but I'd like to get trigger time behind a setup that's specific for the purpose. I shoot pretty regularly so if I'm going to practice, I'd rather it be with what I'll be using every time minus a tweak here and there. The other small issue is we don't have many places local to get true 3-gun based practicing in so it's more so an outdoor range, multiple targets and just transition and such. I've watched some videos on how to make the best out of something that is lackluster but this coming year I hope to do more and start actually competing. I'm not expecting to be first every event - although I'd like to be - but I want to see steady improvements. |
| If you want it move up from the crossfire or strike eagle then the razor HD would be the way to go. I have never shot one but they say the razor has clear glass. My strike eagle is good for me. I think the glass is great but I've never owned a scope that cost over a grand so I have nothing to compare but cheaper scopes. |
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Don't go nuts trying to get lighter. My first build was over 8.5lbs empty. I did well with it, but noticed I was getting tired of carrying it around at the end of the match. I decided to build a light one, but without going with titanium or other expensive parts. This one came out at 6.2lbs empty. I've used it a couple matches, and it definitely feels lighter, but I think it is too light. The heavy one gave me some stability freehand. I think once the heart gets pumping fast after a run across the stage, the lighter one bounces more. I'm now thinking I would do better with something in the 7 to 7.5lbs range. This is just my experience, YMMV.
Of course, maybe it's just an excuse for another rifle. |
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