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5.45 FAQ Add your information & tricks here!! (Page 2 of 5)
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I have to admit that it is rather tempting, since I know where there is an Alexander Arms .221 Ginghiss, (or however they spelled it), upper available.
Looks like with that, a heavier hammer spring, and some C-Products mags, I would be in business. I have a couple of cans of 5.45 stashed away for my WASR-2 that I converted to double stack, with the Tapco T6 stock and handguard that so many people claim to hate. So far, for the money, (and I didn't pay much), I think it is alright for putting on a $200 WASR. I'll stay tuned. I might go for this yet. |
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Originally Posted By esource:
Received 2 tins (2,160) of Bulgarian 5.45 x 39 this week from Sportsman's. Fired 100 rds. thru S&W Upper w/heavy hammer spring using CProducts 5.45 Mags. No missfires or jammed rounds..=100% success. This set-up works flawlessly so far. I was very nervious about buying non-Std. caliber while waiting for my delivery of ammo from R-Guns. If this sucker didn't work I would have been out about $2K. Lower is AFM with Std. carbine buffer and Model 1 parts kit and S&W heavy hammer spring. No problems with cycling using Std. carbine buttstock/buffer from DPMS. I know others are reporting problems. Grouped around 2" at 50 yds....need to install a target trigger. Used a standard parts kit with heavy and rough trigger pull. I will now try to source additional Russian or Bulgarian 5.45 x 39. Have about 20K including stuff on backorder but if anyone knows of any good deals, please let me know. My average cost is about 13 cents with shipping. Fired 200 Rds. 5.45 Bulgarian thru my set-up about one week ago and finished session firing 10 Rds. of Wolf 5.45 x 39 non-corrosive thru it. No visible signs of corrosion anywhere with no cleaning after shooting. I may leave uncleaned until just before my next shoot just to see if any corrosion starts to develop. Was able to group at about 1.5" this time at 50 yards. trigger seems to be a little better. Will try at 100 Yards next shoot. I believe potential accuracy will be better when I get used to set-up. I am hopeful that corrosion with this ammo might not be a big problem. Will report later on corrosion and try Russian ammo also. I don't always have time to clean rifle immediatly after shooting so it would be nice if it's not that critical. Can't remember where I picked-up tip about running non-corrosive after corrosive. It just might work. |
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Originally Posted By esource:
Can't remember where I picked-up tip about running non-corrosive after corrosive. It just might work. Maybe from me. I posted that I was doing that in this thread: http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=121&t=423136 |
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I bought the complete MP15R carbine, not just the upper. Magpul handguards, MOE grip, and MOE stock. Duracoated Colt Gray. LMT fixed BUIS. Bolt carrier group hard chromed by Metaloy Ind. (excellent job, makes for easy clean-up). I have 6 C-Products mags. 2000rds of Wolf 60gr FMJ non-corrosive (well, about 1900 now!).
I've fired only 100rds so far but it's a 3-4 MOA weapon from what I've seen. No malfunctions. Obviously with Wolf there are no corrosion issues. Yesterday I was shooting at a hillside maybe 150-250yds away; just plinking at logs or spots I could make out on the ground. I was pleasantly surprised to see my shots on or right around whatever I was shooting at. If they were man-sized targets I have confidence in my ability to hit one at those ranges I listed above. Given the cost of "good" 5.56mm these days (LC, IMI, Winnie White Box, etc.) I will use this 5.45x39 gun for casual shooting and/or any carbine classes in the near future. Non-corrosive Wolf is a little more expensive than the mil-surp stuff but still considerably cheaper than "good" 5.56mm. So I find it worthwhile to spend the little extra for the non-corrosive fodder and remove that concern from my list. I really need to pick up another 1K of Wolf........... ETA––-almost forgot: I put an MGI adjustable gas tube on it to address the potential for over-gassing after reading the thread on the other site. Only problem is that with repeated firing it starts to "open up", i.e. the adjustment screw doesn't stay put. I used some red paint to mark it and be able to keep an eye out for what is happening. It's like the pressure from firing tends to push it open further. |
If you make me a criminal with the wave of a pen, I just might have to act like one!
11C2P '83-'87. AIRBORNE INFANTRY!!!
11C2P '83-'87. AIRBORNE INFANTRY!!!
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Originally Posted By ABNAK:
ETA––-almost forgot: I put an MGI adjustable gas tube on it to address the potential for over-gassing after reading the thread on the other site. Only problem is that with repeated firing it starts to "open up", i.e. the adjustment screw doesn't stay put. I used some red paint to mark it and be able to keep an eye out for what is happening. It's like the pressure from firing tends to push it open further. Adjustable gas blocks are better since they can take the torque you apply to them when they get carboned up. I had one of those adjustable gas tubes break on me during firing. Burned my support hand through the handguards. MGI did replace it but I still don't trust the adjustable gas tubes. I use adjustable gas blocks now. 
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Originally Posted By amphibian:
Originally Posted By ABNAK:
ETA––-almost forgot: I put an MGI adjustable gas tube on it to address the potential for over-gassing after reading the thread on the other site. Only problem is that with repeated firing it starts to "open up", i.e. the adjustment screw doesn't stay put. I used some red paint to mark it and be able to keep an eye out for what is happening. It's like the pressure from firing tends to push it open further. Adjustable gas blocks are better since they can take the torque you apply to them when they get carboned up. I had one of those adjustable gas tubes break on me during firing. Burned my support hand through the handguards. MGI did replace it but I still don't trust the adjustable gas tubes. I use adjustable gas blocks now. http://home.roadrunner.com/~c3stuff/m16/broken_adj_reg.jpg Actually today I carefully turned the screw out four complete turns which exposed a decent amount of threads. I then put blue Loctite (medium grade) on the exposed threads and carefully screwed it four turns back in, using the allen wrench as a guide (i.e. back to the wrench in the 8 o'clock position where I started from). I did notice that if I tried to tighten it past the previous setting I had been firing at that I met resistance. I surmise this is from carbon building up on the female part of the threads down inside the adjustment piece. When yours broke were you trying to adjust it for some reason? I have mine set at what I need for 60gr Wolf, which is all I have so it *shouldn't* need further adjustment. |
If you make me a criminal with the wave of a pen, I just might have to act like one!
11C2P '83-'87. AIRBORNE INFANTRY!!!
11C2P '83-'87. AIRBORNE INFANTRY!!!
| Yep, the adjustable gas tube is only good if you don't plan on adjusting it again. I had it set the way I wanted it and I think I changed buffers or something and then adjusted it. I worked for a while then blew apart. There is nothing to break on an adjustable block. |
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Silver Bear-
For the most part, reviews I have read by users on some vendors web sites have been positive. The only negative results I have found posted were that several users found small "silver flakes" in their actions after a day at the range. Apparently the zinc plating on the cases does flake off. While on the subject of ammo- I normally use Wolf 60 grain FMJ in my S&W upper with no problems. Widener's botched an order and sent me 2k of 70 grain Military Classic. I am on the fence about returning it. I still have 2k of 60s coming on another order. Anyone running Wolf 70s thru a S&W? Any problems? Thanks- |
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Same issue here with the new C-Products mags I just received. It seems the max they will handle is between 15 and 20 reliably . Anyone out there actually able to run 25 to 30 rounds reliably in their C-Products mags? They seem to have too much spring. The spring seems to snag if you run the follower down by hand. I'm going to pull the bottom plate on one and try a good quality dry teflon lube on the inside of the housing.
In some cases I prefer a shorter 20 round mag. Anyone had any experience with 20s? I’m thinking of ordering some standard 20 round curved mags from C-Products. The options for followers do not include black, only gray and green. I have emailed them to see if they will sell just the black 5.45 followers. I’d settle for 15 round loads if they would function reliably. |
| I haven't had any functional problems with my C-products mags yet, and I load 30 rounds at a time. However, I definitely have noticed that the followers are finicky when loading the mags up. Lots of snagging and tilting going on. And the spring does seem stiff, although with the amount of friction there seems to be between the follower and body, I'm not sure. Some dry lube seems like a good idea. I've been wanting to improve my mags a bit, but it's just been a loading problem for me so far so it's been a low priority. By the way, my mag lula loader doesn't work worth a crap on these mags either. Granted, it was designed for 5.56 mags, but I'm spoiled by that thing when it comes to loading mags. |
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I have pretty decent luck with my Mag Lula for up to twenty rounds. It does not go as smoothly as a 5.56 mag but it does get the job done. The trick is to only push the lever far enough in each direction to hit the maximum down point of each cam lobe. Cartridges on the right side usually drop in and you can hear them bottom out. Cartridges going into the left side seem to be the problem. Usually if I push down slightly on the top of the lever the left side will drop in. After 15 rounds the left side takes extra effort and is a pain. After 20 rounds nothing seems to help either side.
I have an extra loader on order. I'm going to experiment with building up the lobes on one of my older loaders to get a bit more stroke and also try to `restrict the lever travel. Actually with the steeper taper on the case I think it would work better if I could move the pivot point towards the bottom of the case. I bought some AK-74 strippers but that proved to be a waste. I'll try to dump those at the next gun show. Anyone have any "special" tricks to speed up loading C-Products mags that they would like to share? |
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I am about 1 range trip from sending all ten of my C products mags back to C products. I have 3 of the 1st gen and 7 of the 2nd gen. I can not leave them loaded to 30, or 28 for longer than a day. I have had numerous FTF's, and Double feeds, it seems that the springs are not powerfull enough. I am going to try some NEW CS springs from an AR 15 mag before sending them back. After emptying the mag I can reload and shoot a full 30 sometimes with sometimes without problems.
If magpul would only make mags for this.... ETA, I am on about 4K + or - several hundred on my system. I am having some extraction problems (expected, and probably my fault) and the mag issues, but I have used the mags about 11-12 times |
Being a contributing member means you contribute – to a TECH FORUM...
"If another mod is needed the current mod will let us know." TBK1
"If another mod is needed the current mod will let us know." TBK1
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Originally Posted By MOS2111:
I am about 1 range trip from sending all ten of my C products mags back to C products. I have 3 of the 1st gen and 7 of the 2nd gen. I can not leave them loaded to 30, or 28 for longer than a day. I have had numerous FTF's, and Double feeds, it seems that the springs are not powerfull enough. I am going to try some NEW CS springs from an AR 15 mag before sending them back. After emptying the mag I can reload and shoot a full 30 sometimes with sometimes without problems. If magpul would only make mags for this.... ETA, I am on about 4K + or - several hundred on my system. I am having some extraction problems (expected, and probably my fault) and the mag issues, but I have used the mags about 11-12 times Care to elaborate? Not cleaning? First I'd heard of extraction problems. |
If you make me a criminal with the wave of a pen, I just might have to act like one!
11C2P '83-'87. AIRBORNE INFANTRY!!!
11C2P '83-'87. AIRBORNE INFANTRY!!!
Noting to do with cleaning. I have a custom built gun. I was working through some "supposed" plumbing issues and had lightly modded my extractor- and now down the line think that may be catching up with me, as the bolt will fail to pick up a case rim every so often with a black rifle insert, correct spring and oring with a rifle buffer.... All my issues will be different than those of the S&W crowd, other than mags. I shouldnt be having extraciton issued due to laquer becuase my barrel is a modded AK 74 barrel. |
Being a contributing member means you contribute – to a TECH FORUM...
"If another mod is needed the current mod will let us know." TBK1
"If another mod is needed the current mod will let us know." TBK1
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Originally Posted By bsf:
I got my spare, stripped 5.45 bolts from Alexander Arms earlier this year. Do not know if they have any left. Do not know what I will do about the extractor as I do not know if the 5.45 extractor in my S&W upper differs from a 5.56 extractor. I contacted Alexander Arms with the idea of putting a spare or 2 away in case of failure down the road. they replied bu email that they don't have any more left. I guess I'll have to have Kurt open up a std bolt for me. Right now, it's even hard to purchase a std bolt to start with. |
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3/25 Marines Anbar Province 3/25 All Gave Some, 48 Gave All
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Originally Posted By uniontwn:
I have pretty decent luck with my Mag Lula for up to twenty rounds. It does not go as smoothly as a 5.56 mag but it does get the job done. The trick is to only push the lever far enough in each direction to hit the maximum down point of each cam lobe. Cartridges on the right side usually drop in and you can hear them bottom out. Cartridges going into the left side seem to be the problem. Usually if I push down slightly on the top of the lever the left side will drop in. After 15 rounds the left side takes extra effort and is a pain. After 20 rounds nothing seems to help either side. I have an extra loader on order. I'm going to experiment with building up the lobes on one of my older loaders to get a bit more stroke and also try to `restrict the lever travel. Actually with the steeper taper on the case I think it would work better if I could move the pivot point towards the bottom of the case. I bought some AK-74 strippers but that proved to be a waste. I'll try to dump those at the next gun show. Anyone have any "special" tricks to speed up loading C-Products mags that they would like to share? I recently bit the bullet and splurged on a Maglula Benchloader. And I can confirm that you can use it to load 30 rounds of 5.45 into a C products magazine. It takes like 20 seconds to spill the rounds out of the box, place them in the loader and BAM! - one magazine fully loaded. 
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FMF-TACTICAL.COM
3/25 Marines Anbar Province 3/25 All Gave Some, 48 Gave All
3/25 Marines Anbar Province 3/25 All Gave Some, 48 Gave All
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Originally Posted By docmcb:
Originally Posted By uniontwn:
I have pretty decent luck with my Mag Lula for up to twenty rounds. It does not go as smoothly as a 5.56 mag but it does get the job done. The trick is to only push the lever far enough in each direction to hit the maximum down point of each cam lobe. Cartridges on the right side usually drop in and you can hear them bottom out. Cartridges going into the left side seem to be the problem. Usually if I push down slightly on the top of the lever the left side will drop in. After 15 rounds the left side takes extra effort and is a pain. After 20 rounds nothing seems to help either side. I have an extra loader on order. I'm going to experiment with building up the lobes on one of my older loaders to get a bit more stroke and also try to `restrict the lever travel. Actually with the steeper taper on the case I think it would work better if I could move the pivot point towards the bottom of the case. I bought some AK-74 strippers but that proved to be a waste. I'll try to dump those at the next gun show. Anyone have any "special" tricks to speed up loading C-Products mags that they would like to share? I recently bit the bullet and splurged on a Maglula Benchloader. And I can confirm that you can use it to load 30 rounds of 5.45 into a C products magazine. It takes like 20 seconds to spill the rounds out of the box, place them in the loader and BAM! - one magazine fully loaded. http://maglula.tripod.com/BL_M16.jpg Then bam every other round is a FTF. 
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Being a contributing member means you contribute – to a TECH FORUM...
"If another mod is needed the current mod will let us know." TBK1
"If another mod is needed the current mod will let us know." TBK1
I have just over 2k rounds through my S&W/Talo upper; mostly Bulgarian. Use has been formal/informal training and matches. I am using CProducts 5.45 mags of 3 different manufacturing periods, from very early to very recent. My recently-produced mags have seen minimal use in one match. I have only had 1 possibly, mag-related malfunction to date w/ my 5.45 mags. That was a FTFeed w/ an earlier mag that was remedied w/ a slight tap on the forward assist. Normal condition of my mags is loaded w/ 28rd. I am disheartened to hear about the mag issues some are having as I just recently received a long-standing 5.45 mag order from CProducts, and all but 2 of those went into storage. 
Over the years, I have heard considerable negative comments on CProducts mags. It has been my good fortune that all my CProducts mags of many flavors have performed spectacularly. I hope my good luck continues. |
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Originally Posted By MOS2111:
Noting to do with cleaning. I have a custom built gun. I was working through some "supposed" plumbing issues and had lightly modded my extractor- and now down the line think that may be catching up with me, as the bolt will fail to pick up a case rim every so often with a black rifle insert, correct spring and oring with a rifle buffer.... All my issues will be different than those of the S&W crowd, other than mags. I shouldnt be having extraciton issued due to laquer becuase my barrel is a modded AK 74 barrel. Oh, you bought one of Kurt's setups. I've seen those advertised. It wasn't meant as a slam about the cleaning. Around here you run the gammit from those who are anal about it (like me) to those who throw it in a closet until next time. Ya never know..... |
If you make me a criminal with the wave of a pen, I just might have to act like one!
11C2P '83-'87. AIRBORNE INFANTRY!!!
11C2P '83-'87. AIRBORNE INFANTRY!!!
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How long have you had them, what do you load them to, do you store them loaded, how often do you use them and at what rate of fire?
Me; since they came out, 30, then 28, 25 now, I used to and they would jam - now I load them at the range, I run them often, at a high rate of fire.... I could not trust these yet at a course like Pat Rodgers offers, ect. So for me they are not so hot.
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Being a contributing member means you contribute – to a TECH FORUM...
"If another mod is needed the current mod will let us know." TBK1
"If another mod is needed the current mod will let us know." TBK1
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I am taking a rifle class next month that calls for 1,800 rounds of rifle ammo to shoot over 3 days. I plan on using my M&P15R upper for this class, and am a bit concerned about not having a spare bolt or extractor. How difficult is it to modify a 5.56 extractor to use in a 5.45 AR bolt? And who would you recommend?
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Shot mine again yesterday. I LOVE that fucker! Keeps you in tune with 5.56mm handling and the familiarity of an AR platform. Better (but not cheaper) than shooting .22LR.
One thing about it is that the recoil of 5.45 is a tad less than 5.56, although neither should really register on the "recoil meter"! The 5.45 has slightly less of a snap to it. Of course it operates at a lower pressure than the 5.56 and the MGI adjustable gas tube I use is set to deliver just the amount of gas needed to cycle Wolf 60gr. I think I'm gonna pick up another 1K of the Wolf 60gr stuff. If I take a carbine class anytime soon it will be with my MP15R considering the cost of *decent* 5.56mm. |
If you make me a criminal with the wave of a pen, I just might have to act like one!
11C2P '83-'87. AIRBORNE INFANTRY!!!
11C2P '83-'87. AIRBORNE INFANTRY!!!
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I tested 3 lots of ammo and 7 C-Products magazines yesterday at a 100 yard outdoor range. Here are the results.
240 rounds of mil surplus ammo fired.. The bolt has the o-ring, and some rounds went about 2 feet to my 2:30, and others went about 6 feet to my 4:00. Used DPMS extra heavy buffer (5.4 oz?) and bolt carrier group that was plated by Mahovsky's Metalife. It's amazing how much easier these clean up than non-plated BCGs. Magazine # Millett DMS-1 scope on 4x at 50 yards #1- Russian 1977. Didn't run with Wolff extra power recoil spring. Tried to run the BCG dry but that failed. Lightly lubed with Militec. Replaced Wolff recoil spring with standard M4 spring. Neck of first ejected brass casing was deformed/rippled #2- Russian 1976. No malfunctions #3- Russian 1983. 4 bolt over base malfunctions. #4- Russian 1977. 7 bolt over base malfunctions. Difficult to load to 30. Most accurate ammo then switched to Aimpoint T-1 and 100 yards, as I wanted to nail windage at 100. #5- Russian 1976. No malfunctions #6- Russian 1976. 1 failure to extract (stovepipe) #7- Russian 1983. No malfunctions 20 rounds of Wolf mil classic, to blow corrosives out of the gas tube, ran fine. I got too frustrated by the bolt over base issues to track accuracy. However, I am comfortable proclaiming that this is a 2 MOA setup. Verdict: Replace mag springs in magazines 3 and 4. Not sure how to improve extraction/ejection if bolt has a Crane o-ring. Wolff spring? |
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Originally Posted By FrankSL:
I tested 3 lots of ammo and 7 C-Products magazines yesterday at a 100 yard outdoor range. Here are the results. 240 rounds of mil surplus ammo fired.. The bolt has the o-ring, and some rounds went about 2 feet to my 2:30, and others went about 6 feet to my 4:00. Used DPMS extra heavy buffer (5.4 oz?) and bolt carrier group that was plated by Mahovsky's Metalife. It's amazing how much easier these clean up than non-plated BCGs. Magazine # Millett DMS-1 scope on 4x at 50 yards #1- Russian 1977. Didn't run with Wolff extra power recoil spring. Tried to run the BCG dry but that failed. Lightly lubed with Militec. Replaced Wolff recoil spring with standard M4 spring. Neck of first ejected brass casing was deformed/rippled #2- Russian 1976. No malfunctions #3- Russian 1983. 4 bolt over base malfunctions. #4- Russian 1977. 7 bolt over base malfunctions. Difficult to load to 30. Most accurate ammo then switched to Aimpoint T-1 and 100 yards, as I wanted to nail windage at 100. #5- Russian 1976. No malfunctions #6- Russian 1976. 1 failure to extract (stovepipe) #7- Russian 1983. No malfunctions 20 rounds of Wolf mil classic, to blow corrosives out of the gas tube, ran fine. I got too frustrated by the bolt over base issues to track accuracy. However, I am comfortable proclaiming that this is a 2 MOA setup. Verdict: Replace mag springs in magazines 3 and 4. Not sure how to improve extraction/ejection if bolt has a Crane o-ring. Wolff spring? Yeah, I have mine chromed by Metaloy Ind. and cleanup is a snap––-even with dirty-ass Wolf! Also, since the MGI adjustable gas tube only delivers the amount needed to cycle I surmise that it also contributes to keeping excess shit from being deposited. |
If you make me a criminal with the wave of a pen, I just might have to act like one!
11C2P '83-'87. AIRBORNE INFANTRY!!!
11C2P '83-'87. AIRBORNE INFANTRY!!!
| I recently got the S&W upper. I took it to the range today and had a shit load of FTF. Nice primer strikes but just wouldnt shoot. I am using the trigger spring that was provided as well as the magazine. I have this on a Spikes lower with a DPMS lower parts kit. I am running a carbine spring and buffer. Please any help is greatly appreciated as I want this weapon to operate properly. I am using military surplus i believe Bulgarian. |
Its an addiction Man!
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Hmmm, where did you buy the spam can of ammo? And what year is the production? Not that I know of any bad lots, but that is where I would start based on your description. The magazine type, brand of lower, and buffer set-up are unrelated to fail-to-fire issues. |
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| Anybody use an ARES piston kit on the S&W upper? I was thinking of installing one to deal with the gas and corrosion problems I have heard with 5.45 milsurp. Courious to hear how it was to install and how well it functions. Does it get any extra wear from the greater gas pressures? |
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Originally Posted By Stg44_792k:
Anybody use an ARES piston kit on the S&W upper? I was thinking of installing one to deal with the gas and corrosion problems I have heard with 5.45 milsurp. Courious to hear how it was to install and how well it functions. Does it get any extra wear from the greater gas pressures? IIRC the ARES system is self-limiting and only uses the amount of gas needed to cycle, i.e. the excess is bled off once the piston passes a certain point. |
If you make me a criminal with the wave of a pen, I just might have to act like one!
11C2P '83-'87. AIRBORNE INFANTRY!!!
11C2P '83-'87. AIRBORNE INFANTRY!!!
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I've searched several posts, but can't find the answer:
Are the Wolf 60-grain FMJ rounds Bi-metal/steel core or not? I'd like to get the S & W 5.45 and attend carbine courses, but shooting at steel targets, steel core ammo is a no-no. If so, are there ANY 5.45 rounds on the market that are not steel core? Thanks! |
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Originally Posted By rtg:
Originally Posted By Beerswimmer:
Anyone running a Model 1 upper? I bought one and put a wolf extra power spring in my lower it takes 3 primer strikes to fire the round. I am looking for what to check or do next. Thanks 
Wow I opened up the AR and to my supprise I put the hammer spring in upside down
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I have a custom 5.45 upper and AR-74 lower that was put together by Marty at Teppo Jutsu
I love being able to use the 74 magazines in it, some work 100% and others are too large around the feedlips to work properly, but I'm still tweaking it a bit. I also have the S&W and a 6.8 mag in the garage, I'll have to try it next friday and see if it functions well. I picked up some of the 5.45 C-products mags so I'll just be trying it to add the information here to the post. |
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13.1 miles is a long distance to run...
13.1 miles is a long distance to run...
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I've got 500-600 rounds through my S&W 5.45 upper to date. I haven't had any problem with the Russian 83 or the Bulgarian 89 stuff, which is primarily what has been shot out of the upper. I've had decent accuracy even out at 200+ yards, which is way more than I expected out of it. I haven't measured any groups but I've gotten multiple groups that I'm guessing were 6" or under at 200 yards. That was with the surplus ammo too.
I did shoot maybe 60-90 rounds of Silver Bear 60gr. HP and I've had several problems with it. At first when the upper had maybe 200 rounds through it It wouldn't cycle the Silver bear for more than 2 rounds, after that the case would extract/eject fine but the bolt would just sit on the case head of the next round and not have enough oomph to strip it out of the mag. After running several hundred more rounds of the Bulgarian ammo through the gun it now seems to eat the Silver Bear just fine. I did have a dud round of the silver bear last time I went out to the range. I shot and got a click, racked the charging handle and out came a round, after inspection it had a nice deep primer strike but no boom. I chambered the round again and got the same results. I'm pretty sure this had to be a dud round and not caused by a light strike because the primer was dimpled hard. I'm happy with my CP mags as they've feed everything 100% besides the Silver Bear, but I'm pretty sure that was solely ammo related. The mags do bind up like a bitch once you get 20 or so rounds in there though. I typically have sore fingers after loading a mag or two but they do feed the rounds as intended so I'm not complaining. Over all I'm down with 5.45, I'm pleased that I bought it, and I would recommend buying a 5.45 S&W upper/rifle to anyone that can afford to stock up on surplus ammo before it's way over priced like all the other ammo these days. |
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Originally Posted By Stg44_792k: to tell you the truth, i think cleaning the ar without a gas piston would be easier. i do it all the time and have not had a problem. you would have to take the piston out and still worry about cleaning blead off gases. all i do is pour piping hot water down the bore then gas tube. turn the receiver upside down and pour water all on the inside of it. then i take apart the bolt carrier group and scrub it with hot water and dawn detergent. blot it off with compressed air then clean as usual. never had a problem. adds no more than 10 minutes to your normal routine. with the piston setup you will remove the piston itself and clean it, the gas block and the where ever the gases blead off to. Anybody use an ARES piston kit on the S&W upper? I was thinking of installing one to deal with the gas and corrosion problems I have heard with 5.45 milsurp. Courious to hear how it was to install and how well it functions. Does it get any extra wear from the greater gas pressures? |
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Originally Posted By lambo:
Originally Posted By Stg44_792k:
to tell you the truth, i think cleaning the ar without a gas piston would be easier. i do it all the time and have not had a problem. you would have to take the piston out and still worry about cleaning blead off gases. all i do is pour piping hot water down the bore then gas tube. turn the receiver upside down and pour water all on the inside of it. then i take apart the bolt carrier group and scrub it with hot water and dawn detergent. blot it off with compressed air then clean as usual. never had a problem. adds no more than 10 minutes to your normal routine. with the piston setup you will remove the piston itself and clean it, the gas block and the where ever the gases blead off to.
Anybody use an ARES piston kit on the S&W upper? I was thinking of installing one to deal with the gas and corrosion problems I have heard with 5.45 milsurp. Courious to hear how it was to install and how well it functions. Does it get any extra wear from the greater gas pressures? Or you could just shoot Wolf (non-corrosive) and still pay less than good 5.56mm––-albeit a tad bit more than milsurp 5.45. 
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If you make me a criminal with the wave of a pen, I just might have to act like one!
11C2P '83-'87. AIRBORNE INFANTRY!!!
11C2P '83-'87. AIRBORNE INFANTRY!!!
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Originally Posted By ABNAK: Originally Posted By lambo: Originally Posted By Stg44_792k: to tell you the truth, i think cleaning the ar without a gas piston would be easier. i do it all the time and have not had a problem. you would have to take the piston out and still worry about cleaning blead off gases. all i do is pour piping hot water down the bore then gas tube. turn the receiver upside down and pour water all on the inside of it. then i take apart the bolt carrier group and scrub it with hot water and dawn detergent. blot it off with compressed air then clean as usual. never had a problem. adds no more than 10 minutes to your normal routine. with the piston setup you will remove the piston itself and clean it, the gas block and the where ever the gases blead off to. Anybody use an ARES piston kit on the S&W upper? I was thinking of installing one to deal with the gas and corrosion problems I have heard with 5.45 milsurp. Courious to hear how it was to install and how well it functions. Does it get any extra wear from the greater gas pressures? Or you could just shoot Wolf (non-corrosive) and still pay less than good 5.56mm––-albeit a tad bit more than milsurp 5.45. I have more than 4000 rounds of milsurp already, but I will have to use Wolf if I do a carbine class. As for the cleaning, I know hot water, windex, etc works but i am rather lazy and do not always clean well.  I am really more concerned with the corrosive gas getting into the lower. I have the piston kit already, I have just not installed it. I may use the piston kit on another rifle I have in 5.56 as I am considering getting a can. Thank you for the feedback though. I guess I just need to stop being lazy. |
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You know, I seriously considered SBR'ing mine. I've considered that only on one other weapon and decided against it. Don't like an "undeniable" weapon. 
That said, the 5.45 would be an AWESOME weapon to SBR. If you were intent to use it as a SHTF weapon––-which I'm not, just as a 5.56 substitute for training/familiarity––-the 5.45 is still "tumble-able". The 5.56 mm will lose it's primary wounding capacity (fragmentation) sooner velocity-wise than the 5.45 will lose it's primary wounding capacity (tumbling). Sorry to digress, but yeah, that would be a shit-hot weapon to SBR. 
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If you make me a criminal with the wave of a pen, I just might have to act like one!
11C2P '83-'87. AIRBORNE INFANTRY!!!
11C2P '83-'87. AIRBORNE INFANTRY!!!
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I stopped short of SBR'ing mine but did 14.7 cut and perm it. Originally Posted By ABNAK: You know, I seriously considered SBR'ing mine. I've considered that only on one other weapon and decided against it. Don't like an "undeniable" weapon. That said, the 5.45 would be an AWESOME weapon to SBR. If you were intent to use it as a SHTF weapon––-which I'm not, just as a 5.56 substitute for training/familiarity––-the 5.45 is still "tumble-able". The 5.56 mm will lose it's primary wounding capacity (fragmentation) sooner velocity-wise than the 5.45 will lose it's primary wounding capacity (tumbling). Sorry to digress, but yeah, that would be a shit-hot weapon to SBR. |
3/25 Marines Anbar Province 2005, All Gave Some, 48 Gave All
5.45 FAQ Add your information & tricks here!! (Page 2 of 5)
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