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5.45 FAQ Add your information & tricks here!! (Page 4 of 5)
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llc, I took off more bolt tail that you did.... Don't know exactly how much. I gradually removed tail until I significantly increased FP protrusion from the face of the bolt.
I run regular hammer springs and have 99% success..... I have three 5.45 uppers. One runs almost 100% while the other two are 98 and 99 % thereabouts. |
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Originally Posted By FrankSL:
Originally Posted By SickMAK90:
Does the silicone spray really help the c-products magazines? I am having pretty bad luck with the mags in mine. Other than that it has been great. Go to Lowe's or Home Depot, and get a can of Dupont Teflon-Silicone spray. It worked damn well for me. I did the same and the results were impressive. Virtually did away with my bolt-over problems. Anecdotal....I was talking to one of the guys at Spikes at a recent show. He and I were talking about 9mm mags. He said they had some problems with some CP mags that seemed like they were parkerized or something ... rough on the interior of the mag body. He took some emory cloth and a dowel and polished the interior of the mags and smoothed them up. They ran fine afterward. |
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criley,
I will try taking a bit more off also............did you need to modify the tip of the firing pin also? Due to the configuration of the firing pin tip it would only protrude the same amount until I modified the shape to allow it through the hole in the bolt face. I am going to attempt adding weight to the hammer. If I can do it in a dependable manner simply having additional weight might eliminate the need for a heavy spring........Its a kick in the butt to play with this round.........I am absolutely pleased with the results so far and have more than a couple of my comrades watching and taking notes..........thanks for your information..........llc |
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I have three 5.45 ARs. As I worked on a bolt tail I compared it to the others. I was able to increase the protrusion without modifying the FP. When I tried the bolts out, I saw major improvement.
On one bolt. which is now a spare  , I took too much off the tail. I am going to have to shorten the FP and modify the tip to use it.
I was able to find one last Alexander Arms bolt to replace it. Whew. They are a blast to shoot. Especially when the cost is what it is. |
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Paragraphs added for enhanced legibility of an interesting build and questions.
Originally Posted By llc:
As usual I find a thread that answers in a few minutes most of the questions I have asked myself over the last couple months. I spent a great deal of time waiting for my AR 5.45 barrel to arrive and finally gave up. I bought several AK74 virgin barrels and started my lathe and my milling machine going and attacked with vigor and enthusiasm. Installation of the barrel extension took pencil work, adding machines, depth mikes and a headspace gauge from AK builder but was finally accomplished.............. correct placement of the gas port required a bit of head scratching and measuring of my M4 5.56 barrel but was finally drilled and correct. This was followed by the building of a "bushing" for the barrel to adapt the .750" gas block to the smaller barrel of the AK74...............so far so good. Barrel fit, gas tube had the correct positioning and the headspace was perfect. Now to the bolt.........opened it up to .4" (same as the S&W) and left the extractor alone. works perfect except only about 25% ignition on test firing. I modified the firing pin a bit to increase protrusion and had a fine primer strike and now about 50% fired ok. removed .010" from tail of bolt and modified tip of firing pin and finally ended up with about 75% ignition. Read this thread, saw the mention of heavy hammer springs and thought what the heck. I have ordered some springs but in the meantime I rewrapped the stock spring for additional tension and hit the range again.........95% went off without a hitch. I suspect the heavy spring will be the answer. Has anyone tried to increase the weight of the AR hammer?? If you look at the hammers on the AK rifles they are basically a sledge hammer driving a flimsy firing pin. It appears to me there is room to add weight to the sides of the AR hammer and perhaps add enough force to the primer strike to get good ignition without using the heavy spring. that would prevent the heavier trigger pull the heavy spring brings you. The marriage of the 5.45 round with the AR platform is a marriage made in heaven, sure is a kick to shoot...................llc |
Originally Posted By cobra-ak:
I am a former kamakaze pilot with 12 missions.
I am a former kamakaze pilot with 12 missions.
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I have spent several evenings trying different things striving for 100% reliability, modifying currently available pieces to build/assemble a weapon without spending an arm and a leg, testing other folks suggestions and sometimes just screwing things up that already work.
I mentioned the possibility of a heavy hammer........I placed a couple small pins through a standard hammer as reinforcement and doubled the weight of the hammer with applying solder. Crude, probably would fall off at some point but it works just fine with a standard hammer spring and a Compass Lake Trigger....... Rather than a modification to the tail of the bolt to allow more firing pin protrusion I chucked a standard firing pin in the lathe and removed .020" and then at the tip I moved the "shoulder" back the same amount. It worked fine........100% ignition, no special firing pin, no modification to the M16 bolt. The unanswered question is the life of the firing pin with the modified flange. I am also guessing this is a modification that an individual might make with a set of good files and an electric drill. I am using an M16 bolt, I open the bolt face up to .400". Works perfectly, even with the standard 5.56 extractor. I have modified 5 bolts in this fashion with no issues. The 6th bolt was a different matter.......only 10% extraction.......O&^&^%(*&(*&&*#@!%^. OK then, put in a 5.45 extractor......@#$%(*^$#@&^. same results.......fussing and fuming let to a measurement of the depth of the bolt face..........it measured .010" shallower than my other M16 bolts........moved the face .010" and perfect extraction with either extractor. I have found the feed from the CProduct magazines or the military 5.56 is enhanced by modifying the receivers to the M4 cuts. The 5.45 seems to produce an abundance of gas pressure to cycle the BCG........I decided to keep this current rifle in an A1 configuration so I modified the front sight base to accept a limiting screw........over 1/2 of the hole closed and function is perfect with less contamination into the BCG. I have used 4 different muzzle brakes........A2, A1 3 prong, one with a bunch of ports and a modified Tantal AK74 brake.......the modified Tantal is by far the most efficient. This particular carbine has an A1 upper, the AK74 barrel, a Calvary Arms lower and without the magazine is just a bit over 4 lbs.........llc |
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I have been checking out the conversion again and am looking for a bit of input.............
When I set the position of the barrel extension I do it measuring off of the base of a headspace gauge. The AK74 barrels are already chambered and chrome lined so I have to do things a bit different. After assembly and testfire I pulled things apart to do some checking and came up with an item that raised a question. Even though originally assembled using a headspace gauge, I notice that when I substitute an unfired cartridge for the gauge I could set the barrel adapter ahead about .008". Generally accuracy is enhanced with tighter headspace and there is less chance of a case failure. Has anyone played around with this situation????? llc |
| I have a S&W M&P 5.45 complete rifle. It has the stronger orange hammer spring in it. I have had no problems so far. My question is, can I put a standard 5.56/.223 upper on the S&W lower and not change out the hammer spring? If this has been asked and answered in previous posts, I appologize. |
| Two of my 5.45 rifles are built on the Cav Arms MKII lower.........I am using a standard carbine buffer on both. I modified the FSB so I can reduce the gas flow and find that the gas port in the FSB is restricted about 70% with my set screw and still ejects just fine and bolt locks open on the CProducts mag just fine. The 5.45 seems to produce an abundance of pressure.........llc |
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Originally Posted By llc: That's what I like to hear! Thanks Two of my 5.45 rifles are built on the Cav Arms MKII lower.........I am using a standard carbine buffer on both. I modified the FSB so I can reduce the gas flow and find that the gas port in the FSB is restricted about 70% with my set screw and still ejects just fine and bolt locks open on the CProducts mag just fine. The 5.45 seems to produce an abundance of pressure.........llc |
Severe hate and discontent.
Many thanks to Bubbles & Hard_Rock for ending my Browning Hi-Power saga and making her like new again.
Many thanks to Bubbles & Hard_Rock for ending my Browning Hi-Power saga and making her like new again.
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quick question, ive got a 5.45 upper that i really like, and have been running it on my RR m16 for maybe a year and a half. great shooter dumps ammo really good, have a 40 round .223 magazine that works 100% in FA with 5.45. the only problem that ive encountered with it is pretty much a result of shooting it FA, if i dump the 40 rounder followed by 2 30 round magazines (100 rounds total) when I go to chamber the next round from the next mag and shoot said round will get glued into the chamber and I have to knock out the spent casing with a cleaning rod.
This can also happen if i dump 3 30 round mags, semi is fine of course, im sure this is a heat issue, I'm using Russian surp ammo. so far the upper has consumed 7,500 or so. So question is, finally, is this problem caused by a tight chamber? anyone else experience these issues? by the way for those that want to know the 40 rounder that I have that works every time even in FA for the 5.45x39 I got from Cabelas here in phoenix, unsure of the maker, its a steel .223 40 rounder though. heres the 40 rounder in action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIYwHYigSs4 |
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Originally Posted By sharmanajusmc: quick question, ive got a 5.45 upper that i really like, and have been running it on my RR m16 for maybe a year and a half. great shooter dumps ammo really good, have a 40 round .223 magazine that works 100% in FA with 5.45. the only problem that ive encountered with it is pretty much a result of shooting it FA, if i dump the 40 rounder followed by 2 30 round magazines (100 rounds total) when I go to chamber the next round from the next mag and shoot said round will get glued into the chamber and I have to knock out the spent casing with a cleaning rod. This can also happen if i dump 3 30 round mags, semi is fine of course, im sure this is a heat issue, I'm using Russian surp ammo. so far the upper has consumed 7,500 or so. So question is, finally, is this problem caused by a tight chamber? anyone else experience these issues? by the way for those that want to know the 40 rounder that I have that works every time even in FA for the 5.45x39 I got from Cabelas here in phoenix, unsure of the maker, its a steel .223 40 rounder though. heres the 40 rounder in action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIYwHYigSs4 If it isn't an issue of laquor melting off the cases, you're getting a lot of carbon built up in there because steel cases don't expand as much as brass does. Therefore, you're going to get more carbon build up in the chamber area. Just like if you were to fire a whole bunch of wolf ammo out of a 5.56 AR and then some A071 (green tip) The brass expands in the chamber and is grabbed by the carbon on the chamber walls. That said, use a chamber brush more and lay off the old trigger if the laquer melting off your cases due to heat. 
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Severe hate and discontent.
Many thanks to Bubbles & Hard_Rock for ending my Browning Hi-Power saga and making her like new again.
Many thanks to Bubbles & Hard_Rock for ending my Browning Hi-Power saga and making her like new again.
| Sharman......USMC did not indicate what sort of upper it was............US production of one like all mine made out of this n that n AK74 barrels...........I have one child built with a US barrel with wonderful chrome plating in the chamber and after about 200 rounds of semi fire it will stick a case on occasion. I brush the chamber and go back to shooting. The other children are all built with AK74 barrels and the chrome plating in the chamber looks a lot like corrugated pipe.....rather rough.......a few blemishes so to speak. They have never offered to stick a case. One of those chambers even measures tighter than the US chamber. I have restricted the gas flow on all of the rifles though..........if in fact the issue is carbon if you reduce the gas flow you would also reduce the amount of carbon............perhaps................Its a simple trick to drill and tap a standard FSB and gas blocks can be purchased with the adjusting screw........perhaps that would help......llc |
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its a SW 5.45 upper, it is chrome lined, this only occurs when it gets very hot, but after it cools it runs perfectly no chamber scrubbing required, I was thinking of polishing the chamber a bit but wasnt sure if that would actually fix that problem. really its only an issue if im burning through mags though.
that being said, i have closely examined the chamber and the stuck cases and it shows no sign of the lacquer melting, just carbon. so when it overheats it maybe the chamber expands slightly allowing the carbon to lock the casing in the chamber. I do alternate from steel to brass a lot with an LMT 10.5 .223 upper and have never had a stuck case (brass, steel, lacquered etc) after thousands of rounds and cmag dumps. so I'm really not convinced that melting laquer is the danger most people seem to think it is, I'm sure its carbon, im just wondering if polishing up the chamber will make a difference. |
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Originally Posted By llc:
Sharman......USMC did not indicate what sort of upper it was............US production of one like all mine made out of this n that n AK74 barrels...........I have one child built with a US barrel with wonderful chrome plating in the chamber and after about 200 rounds of semi fire it will stick a case on occasion. I brush the chamber and go back to shooting. The other children are all built with AK74 barrels and the chrome plating in the chamber looks a lot like corrugated pipe.....rather rough.......a few blemishes so to speak. They have never offered to stick a case. One of those chambers even measures tighter than the US chamber. I have restricted the gas flow on all of the rifles though..........if in fact the issue is carbon if you reduce the gas flow you would also reduce the amount of carbon............perhaps................Its a simple trick to drill and tap a standard FSB and gas blocks can be purchased with the adjusting screw........perhaps that would help......llc Or just buy an MGI adjustable gas tube.
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If you make me a criminal with the wave of a pen, I just might have to act like one!
11C2P '83-'87. AIRBORNE INFANTRY!!!
11C2P '83-'87. AIRBORNE INFANTRY!!!
| I have never used an adjustable tube but I understand they do just exactly what they are designed to do. I have a couple rifles built on the AR platform still running full gas but I am going to modify them at the first opportunity.........less jump, less gas, less heat, less contamination and still function perfectly. I also have one of my AK rifles (5.56) modified in the same manner.......the round produces more pressure than is needed to cycle the weapon properly........less jump, less gas, etc.............works there also............llc |
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Originally Posted By llc:
I have never used an adjustable tube but I understand they do just exactly what they are designed to do. I have a couple rifles built on the AR platform still running full gas but I am going to modify them at the first opportunity.........less jump, less gas, less heat, less contamination and still function perfectly. I also have one of my AK rifles (5.56) modified in the same manner.......the round produces more pressure than is needed to cycle the weapon properly........less jump, less gas, etc.............works there also............llc The only weapon I have an MGI on is my S&W 5.45 carbine. I have almost 3,000rds of Wolf 60gr FMJ (non-corrosive  ) so it's all *pretty* uniform in weight and charge. I set my adjustable gas tube to just cycle and eject, then a "c-hair" more for good measure. Made a witness mark, backed it out carefully counting turns enough to show threading and put some permanent loctite on it. Then I screwed it carefully back in to the original position and have a couple hundred rounds through it since then with no issues. I had my BCG hard chromed by Metaloy and between that and limiting the gas infusion, as a side benefit cleanup is pretty easy and quick.
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If you make me a criminal with the wave of a pen, I just might have to act like one!
11C2P '83-'87. AIRBORNE INFANTRY!!!
11C2P '83-'87. AIRBORNE INFANTRY!!!
| yea Ive thought about the adjustable gas tubes but I've heard bad things about them opening up when the weapon gets really hot, remember this upper is for an m16 so it gets HOT. I was thinking about something more along the lines of an adjustable gas block or perhaps even a piston conversion but i like DI system as its much smoother and way easier on the upper receiver. |
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New guy to the site here. I like what I see.
I bought a Mod 1 16 inch heavy bbl with their low profile gas block and bolt & firing pin and put them together in a RR/Bushy/DPMS/parts box franken-carbine using C-Prod mags. I've put approx 500 rds of Bulgarian surplus through it. No FTF, no feeding issues, but not problem free. 1st: Mod 1 customer service was dismal and Quality Control was even worse. When I ordered the bbl I explained that I wanted to install it under a mid-length rail system. Their site only offered a regular FSB or the picatinny gas block. The gal on the line said they'd just swap the gas block for a low pro. I also ordered a 5.45 bolt and firing pin. She said they had the bolts in stock but the bbl could be a few months and asked if I wanted the bolt now or with the bbl. I opted to have them shipped together. Two months later I got the bbl, no bolt, and they'd charged me full price for the low pro gas block as if I'd ordered it separately. The first thing that caught my eye was the finish, the bbl had finger prints in it as if they'd handled it wtih bare hands right out of the spray booth, I don't think they'd parked it. The second thing that stood out was that they'd added a front hand guard ring (told them it was going UNDER a rail). That had to come off so I pulled out my allen wrenches to remove the gas block and after a quarter turn on the middle of three screws the entire unit separated from the bbl. It had only been held in place by the light pressure from that one screw. Nice install job. Several calls, e-mails and letters finally produced a bolt and they gave me a break on the gas block. After all the issues with Quality Control and accuracy in order taking, packing and production I've decided not to deal with them again. 2nd issue: Not sure if this is ammo or the bbl but my rounds are key holing badly. In some cases the round is going through the paper at 25 meters at what would be about 20 deg off axis and way outside the group. After the issues I ran into with production, it makes me wonder if M1S just chambered 5.56 blanks for 5.45. |
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I have had good luck with my Model 1 purchases and customer service , often there has been a time lag in acquiring some of the pieces. They were always good about informing me of the time frame and often I purchased elsewhere rather than wait. Many vendors, and I am sure Model 1 is no different, buy pieces and assemble them into units for resale. Assembly may not be by a gunsmith. I suspect that often we become the victim of lack of experience when, as in your case, only one screw is tightened.
The keyhole issue is probably one of barrel twist or perhaps bore diameter. The simple test for bore diameter is to take one of your unfired rounds and insert the bullet into the muzzle of the barrel........the projectile should not enter completely into the bore but should make contact with the lands and leave a gap between barrel crown and case mouth. Surplus ammo is 51 to 53 grains I believe. As such it requires a particular rifling twist to stabilize the bullet. I built my AR's 5.45's by utilizing an AK74 barrel I modified and the twist and bullet are absolutely compatible....several thousand rounds of Russian and Bulgarian with no keyholes, at least not on the paper targets I have shot and I have shot paper out to 300 meters. I also have Polish Tantals in the same caliber with the original barrels and have no keyhole issues. Tomorrow I will determine the twist on the barrels and post it for you. If you go to the AK site and search for Century keyhole you will find tons of comments about the issue....... By the way I assume 3XIraqvet means exactly what it says..........thank you for your service from a US Citizen and Vet from another time........llc |
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Originally Posted By 3XIraqvet:
New guy to the site here. I like what I see. I bought a Mod 1 16 inch heavy bbl with their low profile gas block and bolt & firing pin and put them together in a RR/Bushy/DPMS/parts box franken-carbine using C-Prod mags. I've put approx 500 rds of Bulgarian surplus through it. No FTF, no feeding issues, but not problem free. 1st: Mod 1 customer service was dismal and Quality Control was even worse. When I ordered the bbl I explained that I wanted to install it under a mid-length rail system. Their site only offered a regular FSB or the picatinny gas block. The gal on the line said they'd just swap the gas block for a low pro. I also ordered a 5.45 bolt and firing pin. She said they had the bolts in stock but the bbl could be a few months and asked if I wanted the bolt now or with the bbl. I opted to have them shipped together. Two months later I got the bbl, no bolt, and they'd charged me full price for the low pro gas block as if I'd ordered it separately. The first thing that caught my eye was the finish, the bbl had finger prints in it as if they'd handled it wtih bare hands right out of the spray booth, I don't think they'd parked it. The second thing that stood out was that they'd added a front hand guard ring (told them it was going UNDER a rail). That had to come off so I pulled out my allen wrenches to remove the gas block and after a quarter turn on the middle of three screws the entire unit separated from the bbl. It had only been held in place by the light pressure from that one screw. Nice install job. Several calls, e-mails and letters finally produced a bolt and they gave me a break on the gas block. After all the issues with Quality Control and accuracy in order taking, packing and production I've decided not to deal with them again. 2nd issue: Not sure if this is ammo or the bbl but my rounds are key holing badly. In some cases the round is going through the paper at 25 meters at what would be about 20 deg off axis and way outside the group. After the issues I ran into with production, it makes me wonder if M1S just chambered 5.56 blanks for 5.45. Just did some measuring on both the Tantal and the AK barrel I modified for the AR..........near as I can measure both are about 1 twist in 9 inches. Both are Polish manufactured barrels and fire both Russian and Bulgarian surplus ammo with no key hole and are both very accurate. Hope thjis gives you a place to start checking.........llc |
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llc,
I appreciate the info and the insight. Perhaps I just caught M1S on a string of bad days, there's always one guy who falls through the cracks. I'm going to try slugging the bore to see what I come up with. M1S called the twist rate 1/8 and that looks correct, I count nearly two complete revolutions in the rifiling in my 16" bbl. And thank you for the kind words regarding my handle. I did, indeed, do 3 tours in Iraq but since the Marine Corps has transitioned to Afghanistan it looks like that will be next stop on the tour list after I finish up here in VA. We shall see. |
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Just an FYI on PMAGS
My brother's got an S&W M&P R (5.45) upper on a Spikes lower. For shits i checked how many of his 5.45's i could get in one of my revision M windowed pmags. I was able to get 27, but 25 seemed like the magic number, i tried two of my Revision M Pmags loaded to 25 and both mags shot all 25 rounds without failure. Loaded with 26 or more we had feeding issues. |
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For all interested, I started a 5.45 AR picture thread, Please stop by a post up a pic of your 5.45 AR Pic Thread Here... |
I really like AR-15s and 1911s.
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Glad as hell I'm on this thread...good info and I'm relieved to hear good reviews about the M&P 15R. So that being said, from what I have read, issues have been encountered w/ FTF due to not using heavy duty hammer springs. And mag issues as well, but those seem easier to sort out than than direct FTF. My main question is this - would you suggest just buying a stock M&P 15R from the factory and then play with mods after that, or buy a regular AR lower, make sure it has heavy hammer spring and then get a M&P upper or another upper from a different place. Any input on whether or not it matters what kinda of upper I get, IE from S&W or Alexander or whatever? Any good choices of lowers or will any AR lower do? I ask b/c I enjoy building my own rifles, rather than just buying a factory one. Also I kinda like the idea of being able to use my Bulgarian AK-74 mags in the AR...what kinda of lower would I need or can a regular lower be modified to accept bulgy ak 74 mags? Thx |
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Originally Posted By mtr88:
Gotcha so you would suggest sticking w/ S&W upper/lower or just buying one straight up...? Would be cheaper to just get one new and complete and then tweak it as needed... I run a S&W upper on a spare Stag lower because that's what I had in the safe and was the shortest path to a 5.45 AR. H buffer, heavy hammer spring, and that's it. Didn't need to do any tweaking beyond keeping the bolt carrier lubed. AIM was selling the complete 15R for $880 though out of stock at the moment. They do have the upper assembly for $600. Do you already have a spare lower? Can you build one up cheaper than $280? Do you want the lower to say 5.45x39 on the side? Do you care if it says .223/5.56? It may be as much a supply issue as the uppers are easier to find than the complete guns in my experience. S&W will warranty the upper or the complete gun in either case. For me, it was the cost issue, already had a spare lower so didn't see the point in buying a complete gun. 
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Yeah I saw AIM was sold out, depressing b/c I saw the price and it looked like a damn good deal. In your case since you had a lower, I can see why you just get an upper and be done w/ it. I don't have a lower, so I'll just get the package deal...thx for the input. |
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Dont forget to ad this company to your list of manufacturers
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=124&t=495986 They make complete 5.45 uppers too! |
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Thought I'd post my luck with Rev M Windowed Pmags loaded to 25rnd of 5.45
Video |
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JUST A HEADS UP
I have not been cleaning my buffer, buffer spring or lubricating my buffer retaining detent and spring properly. I tried to remove my buffer today and the buffer retainer had rusted and locked itself in place. I couldn't get it out until I locked my SBR lower in the drill press and removed it by drilling it out. I wasn't very happy about that... |
Navy Molar Mechanic
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Originally Posted By Hector45:
Thought I'd post my luck with Rev M Windowed Pmags loaded to 25rnd of 5.45 Video Interesting! How many rounds have you shot with the M mags so far? Any problems? |
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Originally Posted By Jerad: Thanks for that. I'll admit I haven't looked closely at the retainer pin in a while.JUST A HEADS UP I have not been cleaning my buffer, buffer spring or lubricating my buffer retaining detent and spring properly. I tried to remove my buffer today and the buffer retainer had rusted and locked itself in place. I couldn't get it out until I locked my SBR lower in the drill press and removed it by drilling it out. I wasn't very happy about that... |
Fuck Obama
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Originally Posted By levigarrett93:
How to Open 5.56 bolt to 5.45 (Drawing only) Thought this could be useful for those who want to know what needs to be done to a 5.56 bolt to make it work for a 5.45 setup. Thanks to: Hebrew_Battle_Rifle Link to Drawing Topic All I see there is the OP, asking about how to do it, with no drawing. Anybody have the drawing saved? Repost it if you could. |
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Originally Posted By kaos:
Originally Posted By Jerad:
Thanks for that. I'll admit I haven't looked closely at the retainer pin in a while.
JUST A HEADS UP I have not been cleaning my buffer, buffer spring or lubricating my buffer retaining detent and spring properly. I tried to remove my buffer today and the buffer retainer had rusted and locked itself in place. I couldn't get it out until I locked my SBR lower in the drill press and removed it by drilling it out. I wasn't very happy about that... Ballistol.....it is your friend in the war on rust. |
| I have opened up several.......I have used both carbide and ceramic bits in my lathe to enlarge the opening. I tried one a few days ago using a modified grinding wheel and my milling machine. The opening on the AK 74 is about .400", I usually go a bit smaller than that and find the bolt will still work fine for the 5.56 military and commercial........I have tried both 5.56 and 5.45 extractors and at least for the short term have found no difference in performance......llc |
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Originally Posted By GO4SHOOT:
Originally Posted By Hector45:
Thought I'd post my luck with Rev M Windowed Pmags loaded to 25rnd of 5.45 Video Interesting! How many rounds have you shot with the M mags so far? Any problems? He now has 3 Rev M Pmags and has shot close to 200 rounds all together through them without failure, all loaded to 25 rnds. |
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After buying a WASR2 and building a Tantal, I picked up a barrel and bot for the AR. When firing into my bullet trap I noticed that the Wolf Military Classic ammo (70 grain) would not extract every time.
Thinking it was the new chamber being broken in I cleaned the barrel well. The first shot extracted with no problems. The second was left in the chamber. It took no effort what so ever to remove the fired casing from the chamber. There are clear signs that the ejector pulled over the extractor groove of the casing. I loaded up a few rounds of Wolf 60 grain ammo and all worked well. I then grabbed my digital calipers and started to make some measurements of loaded ammo.What I found got my attention. The wolf 60 grain ammo's bullet miked out at .222.0 The 70 Grain ammo miked out at .223.5! I double checked the 70 round ammo with other boxes of ammo that had a different lot number. what I found was that the bullets miked out from .220 to .223.5. And it only seemed to be the Wolf 70 grain ammo. All other ammo,new or surplus were within the published spects for bullet diameter for the 5.45x39. Have any of you seen this? The pressure has to be much higher for this over sized bullet swaging down the bore. I can see why the casing doesn't want to be extracted. The primer does not show excessive pressures,it's still rounded at the edges and not flattened. I'm going to return the ammo to the Wolf distributor for replacement ammo. Here's the lot number of the over sized bulleted ammo: Wolf Military Classic 5.45x39 Camo box Lot number in the lid of the box- T17 |
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Been shooting a S&W 5.45 upper in both an old Colt lower and a current SPIKES lower. Both have the red HD hammer spring as well as H2 buffers.
And recently took delivery of a new LWRC piston 5.45 upper, now mated to the SPIKES lower. Ammo has been the Commie 7N6 loaded into both 30 rd P-mags and the C Products 5.45 mags with the 87GN white aftermarket follower. After two years and several K rds........ P-Mags loaded to 25 rds work fine. RED or HD Hammer spring is a MUST INSTALL. Even in the dry MT climate one MUST clean with soap and hot water...then lube. Proper maintenance shouldn't be ignored...unless you enjoy complications. WHY so many of you insist on making the clean up harder than it should be..... surprises me. WD-40? Spray on Solvents? etc, etc. Repeat after me; HOT SOAPY WATER. End of story. Though BALLISTOL works and I DO use it. The S&W upper has given me 2" groups at 100 yds. The new LWRC upper is a bit better. Looking forward to the new Hornady non corrosive ammo with quality bullets for better accuracy! FN in MT |
5.45 FAQ Add your information & tricks here!! (Page 4 of 5)
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