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Posted: 7/24/2015 4:49:04 PM EDT
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I got all my parts today. You can obviously imagine the happy feelings. Anyway, I follow the directions for installing the proprietary barrel nut. I get an alignment reading with the first shim. I then remove the black shim and install the 2 shims that should bring me to the proper pre-torque setting. Of course it is not centered or even close enough to do a final torque. I followed the directions. I am getting the green/purple shim combo reading. What am I missing?
Only thing I can think of logically is that I did not seat the green/purple shims properly to so the nut will not twist tight enough to line up, and I do not want to use a pipe until final torquing. If you have one and can help, I would appreciate it. Emailed ALG but was hoping to get this done for the weekend. http://d1z9d9wmo9i928.cloudfront.net/media/files/ALG_EMR_M-LOK_INSTRUCTIONSFINAL_2_1.pdf |
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Follow their steps until you can't quite turn it far enough to be aligned, then use a wrench or pipe on the handle of the supplied tool to apply the needed torque to get the barrel nut into its final position. This works well, I have several of the ALG rails. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HvM6FGhZAH4 |
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I love my ALG Rail. Don't worry about it until you are ready to do the final assembly. I had to use a cheater pipe as they instruct. It's been a few months but I probably had to turn close to a quarter turn with the pipe. Use some grease, aeroshell, or copper antiseize on the barrel thread before final tightening.
I used a Magpul bevblock to hold everything and not overload the magwell when tightening. It locks into the barrel lugs. |
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Watching the video, I guess I did not torque it tight enough with the black shim. I thought it was just hand tight and not as tight as possible with the wrench. I will have to try again.
I also thought that the black shim must be removed per the directions. Am I wrong? In the video he leaves it along with the 2 blue shims. I am anxious to get this done because this rifle is going to be under 6 lbs with the pencil barrel. |
| Make sure you follow step 4. Snug it up and back it off 3 times then reposition the wrench to get a reading. Then get the correct shim combo and go from there. If you need a combo make sure to take the black shim off and put the color combo on. Once the combo is on, use a cheater bar or pipe to get some leverage with the wrench to snug up the barrel nut and checking for the notch on the barrel nut for alignment along with the wrench setting. |
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Quoted:
I followed all the steps but to no avail. I get the proper shim reading, put the shims in, hand tighten and the pre-torque band is not close enough to be centered. It looks so easy. I think I would rather just use a rail with a torque wrench.  Look at the shim chart and see if you need more thinkness or less. I have install probably a dozen ALG rails and the shims chart isnt always accurate. Swap one of the shim for a thicker one and see where you line up if not change it for a thinner one. MAHA |
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I installed an ALG earlier this week and had a very similar problem, but I ended up trying different combos of shims to get the "pre-torque" indicator in the right spot.
I don't remember what shim combo I was supposed to use or what combo I eventually used, but I figured my upper receiver / barrel combo had something to do with the instructions not working 100% for me. I got the pre-torque in the right spot and use a cheater. Rail goes on nice and I am very happy with the end result. DSG Upper with a 10.5 inch LBE .300 Blackout barrel. |
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I tried a couple of different combinations listed in the instructions. If I use the proper combination of shims, the pre-torque marker should be dead center (or thereabouts) just when hand tightened, correct?
Common sense would dictate that I would need less shimming, or thinner shims if the maker would not make it to center line. I will give it another shot. I did order a MI SS Keymod but may put that on another rifle if I get this one working. |
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I vaguely remember reading that the purple wrench is designed to be used with a 12" pipe on the end to reach the right torque. I may be wrong though
I had to use several combinations of shims before i got the right combo. Snug it up, loosen, add, remove, repeat. If its any help I have a purple, a single 2 black stripe, green, and red shim left over |
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Quoted:
I tried a couple of different combinations listed in the instructions. If I use the proper combination of shims, the pre-torque marker should be dead center (or thereabouts) just when hand tightened, correct? Common sense would dictate that I would need less shimming, or thinner shims if the maker would not make it to center line. I will give it another shot. I did order a MI SS Keymod but may put that on another rifle if I get this one working. I went to the ALG after the MI went into the recycle bin...it was way too flimsy. After that fiasco, I wouldn't likely use anything with a similar clamp-on setup. |
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Quoted:
I went to the ALG after the MI went into the recycle bin...it was way too flimsy. After that fiasco, I wouldn't likely use anything with a similar clamp-on setup. Quoted:
Quoted:
I tried a couple of different combinations listed in the instructions. If I use the proper combination of shims, the pre-torque marker should be dead center (or thereabouts) just when hand tightened, correct? Common sense would dictate that I would need less shimming, or thinner shims if the maker would not make it to center line. I will give it another shot. I did order a MI SS Keymod but may put that on another rifle if I get this one working. I went to the ALG after the MI went into the recycle bin...it was way too flimsy. After that fiasco, I wouldn't likely use anything with a similar clamp-on setup. I cancelled my order. I had not read anything about them being flimsy. If I cannot get this to work for me, I may just have to spring for the KMR. |
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Just forget about the torque gauge, and torque it down with the pipe on the barrel nut wrench.
I really don't use the gauge anymore, I just torque it and line up the slot with the hole in the upper...likely a bit more torque than it calls for, but I'm OK with that. Just be sure there are enough shims to keep the barrel nut from locking up against the face of the upper. |
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Tried it again without the upper in the vise block. I got the proper reading for the shim combo, removed the black shim and installed the red/purple combo to hand tight.
Decided to just mix and match shims and an unlisted combination worked. Go figure. Of course, the Midwest rail will be here in 2 days. May just hold on to it anyway. |
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Quoted:
I cancelled my order. I had not read anything about them being flimsy. If I cannot get this to work for me, I may just have to spring for the KMR. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I tried a couple of different combinations listed in the instructions. If I use the proper combination of shims, the pre-torque marker should be dead center (or thereabouts) just when hand tightened, correct? Common sense would dictate that I would need less shimming, or thinner shims if the maker would not make it to center line. I will give it another shot. I did order a MI SS Keymod but may put that on another rifle if I get this one working. I went to the ALG after the MI went into the recycle bin...it was way too flimsy. After that fiasco, I wouldn't likely use anything with a similar clamp-on setup. I cancelled my order. I had not read anything about them being flimsy. If I cannot get this to work for me, I may just have to spring for the KMR. I'll be honest, I thought the MI was a solid handguard until I installed an ALG v3. Now I have a geissele handguard in the mail to replace the MI on my first build. |
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I had the same issue. I tried all the combinations and then tried some not listed combinations until I got the pre torque band where it needed to be. I emailed ALG and sent them pictures with all the combos and they told me what I did was fine. I think I have a thread. I'll try to dig it up.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/675866_ALG_Defense_EMR_rail_installation_troubles.html http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_2_444/267726_ALG_EMR___trouble_with_installation.html |
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They told me same thing. It was fine because the pre-torque gives the proper final torque with alignment for gas block. Brownells actually contacted Fedex to issue a return to sender and I get a full refund.
ALG should make it clear in the instructions that you can mix and match shims. |
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