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UT, USA
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Posted: 10/12/2013 5:33:37 PM EDT
[#1]
Its been a while since I've owned a page. Lets keep this thread going!
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TX, USA
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Posted: 10/12/2013 7:22:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: rksonex]
[#2]
+1
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Posted: 10/12/2013 9:27:40 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Roebuck:
Only temporarily suspended because panic. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Roebuck:
Originally Posted By toolboxluis00100:
Nickle plated Brass 75Gr Tap HD rounds they dont make this any more <a href="http://s183.photobucket.com/user/toolboxluis/media/pmagpics1of1-5_zps0a4c260b.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x151/toolboxluis/pmagpics1of1-5_zps0a4c260b.jpg</a> <a href="http://s183.photobucket.com/user/toolboxluis/media/pmagpics1of1-4_zps987e73d5.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x151/toolboxluis/pmagpics1of1-4_zps987e73d5.jpg</a> CRAP I RAN OUT OF BANDWIDTH Only temporarily suspended because panic. IS BACK UP SO TIME TO POST PICS 
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Posted: 10/12/2013 9:29:22 PM EDT
[#4]
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USA
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Posted: 10/12/2013 9:32:07 PM EDT
[#5]
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Posted: 10/12/2013 10:09:43 PM EDT
[#6]
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IL, USA
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Posted: 10/12/2013 10:10:03 PM EDT
[#7]
Just a nikon l810. More or less a point and shoot. i posted some on precision rilfe page 76 ,I thought they came out pretty good.
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IL, USA
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Posted: 10/12/2013 10:39:49 PM EDT
[#8]
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Posted: 10/13/2013 2:33:37 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DontBuryMe:
It's an Insight M3X, if that's what you're asking. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DontBuryMe:
Originally Posted By Laust:
Originally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Still trying to figure out PS. Tried to bring some color out with out over doing it to be in your face. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7358/10108225786_1914771618_b.jpg I tried finding this light my self,I give up  It's an Insight M3X, if that's what you're asking. Ahh, Thanks, The Multiple back plate options through me off. Appreciate it. |
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Posted: 10/15/2013 10:14:41 AM EDT
[#10]
How can I make this photo better since it's pretty hard for me to really capture the stainless parts.
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Posted: 10/15/2013 11:48:46 AM EDT
[Last Edit: sgwlower]
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jukeboxx13:
How can I make this photo better since it's pretty hard for me to really capture the stainless parts. http://imageshack.us/a/img69/7655/iws7.jpg http:// I have the same issue--the shap contrast between polished stainless and black is hard to capture! Something about it leaves the black ultra sharp, and the stainless less defined. See below: 
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Posted: 10/15/2013 3:26:24 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By sgwlower:
I have the same issue--the shap contrast between polished stainless and black is hard to capture! Something about it leaves the black ultra sharp, and the stainless less defined. See below: http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2875/9904834695_69613be391_c.jpg Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By sgwlower:
Originally Posted By jukeboxx13:
How can I make this photo better since it's pretty hard for me to really capture the stainless parts. http://imageshack.us/a/img69/7655/iws7.jpg http:// I have the same issue--the shap contrast between polished stainless and black is hard to capture! Something about it leaves the black ultra sharp, and the stainless less defined. See below: http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2875/9904834695_69613be391_c.jpg Good looking pic, great looking rifle. |
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Posted: 10/15/2013 3:45:41 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Laust:
Ahh, Thanks, The Multiple back plate options through me off. Appreciate it. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Laust:
Originally Posted By DontBuryMe:
Originally Posted By Laust:
Originally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Still trying to figure out PS. Tried to bring some color out with out over doing it to be in your face. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7358/10108225786_1914771618_b.jpg I tried finding this light my self,I give up It's an Insight M3X, if that's what you're asking. Ahh, Thanks, The Multiple back plate options through me off. Appreciate it. Sorry I didnt see your original post. Yes it is the M3X. Found it on Ebay for a good deal. |
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Posted: 10/15/2013 5:51:21 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By sgwlower: I have the same issue--the shap contrast between polished stainless and black is hard to capture! Something about it leaves the black ultra sharp, and the stainless less defined. See below: http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2875/9904834695_69613be391_c.jpg Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By sgwlower: Originally Posted By jukeboxx13: How can I make this photo better since it's pretty hard for me to really capture the stainless parts. http://imageshack.us/a/img69/7655/iws7.jpg http:// I have the same issue--the shap contrast between polished stainless and black is hard to capture! Something about it leaves the black ultra sharp, and the stainless less defined. See below: http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2875/9904834695_69613be391_c.jpg |
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IL, USA
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Posted: 10/15/2013 8:59:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: gotfish]
[#15]
Quote HistoryThe black and stainless combo is odd in photos, but maybe I should turn down the ISO or increase the shutter speed to make it darker than photoshop the exposure. The difference between extreme colors, or extremely dark / light areas in a photo is referred to as dynamic range. The better the camera (with digital), typically the better the dynamic range. Full-frame sensors (Canon 5d series, for example) are usually better at capturing a wider range than crop sensors or (especially) point and shoot cameras. Turning your ISO down (more towards ISO100) will always help with noise, but you will likely reach a point where you need to shoot with a tripod for best results. Deliberately underexposing an image and then making up for it in Photoshop (or any odd-version of Photoshop) will typically introduce more noise (a.k.a. grain) into your photo than if you had exposed it properly in the original image file. As bad as purists will think this sounds, this is where HDR photography can have its advantages. The key is often to blend several images with good software, rather than 3 drastically different images, and to have shot the original images with the camera in the exact same location with the exact same lens and ISO settings (f/8 and up, for example). It's also important not to get even a little carried away with the settings while processing the images. Depending on what software you're using, there may also be a slider or control called "recovery". This is intended to get the detail back into your photo that was lost by being overexposed. Picture shooting a photo of a white bird on a sunny day...the feather detail is normally lost. This can help bring it back into the image. The same slider can help bring the detail back into something like the stainless parts in your image. See the image below for an example - this is a screen capture from Photoshop Lightroom. One way or the other, what you're shooting for is not easy. I'd say you're doing pretty damn well with what you've posted. Apologies to the others if this got a little off-track - just trying to help. 
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Posted: 10/15/2013 9:04:03 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jukeboxx13:
The black and stainless combo is odd in photos, but maybe I should turn down the ISO or increase the shutter speed to make it darker than photoshop the exposure. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jukeboxx13:
Originally Posted By sgwlower:
Originally Posted By jukeboxx13:
How can I make this photo better since it's pretty hard for me to really capture the stainless parts. http://imageshack.us/a/img69/7655/iws7.jpg http:// I have the same issue--the shap contrast between polished stainless and black is hard to capture! Something about it leaves the black ultra sharp, and the stainless less defined. See below: http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2875/9904834695_69613be391_c.jpg The key is managing your light source not messing with your exposure. With reflective metal you're basically taking a picture of your light source. For a black rifle with stainless/reflective parts, you're probably going to have the best luck with a large soft light close to the firearm. If you know what you're doing, you don't need to use HDR, and other such foolishness. Stainless guns have been around for a long time, and people have been photographing them long before digital. Lighting, you mush learn lighting... |
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Posted: 10/15/2013 9:28:53 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By gotfish:
The difference between extreme colors, or extremely dark / light areas in a photo is referred to as dynamic range. The better the camera (with digital), typically the better the dynamic range. Full-frame sensors (Canon 5d series, for example) are usually better at capturing a wider range than crop sensors or (especially) point and shoot cameras. Turning your ISO down (more towards ISO100) will always help with noise, but you will likely reach a point where you need to shoot with a tripod for best results. Deliberately underexposing an image and then making up for it in Photoshop (or any odd-version of Photoshop) will typically introduce more noise (a.k.a. grain) into your photo than if you had exposed it properly in the original image file. As bad as purists will think this sounds, this is where HDR photography can have its advantages. The key is often to blend several images with good software, rather than 3 drastically different images, and to have shot the original images with the camera in the exact same location with the exact same lens and ISO settings (f/8 and up, for example). It's also important not to get even a little carried away with the settings while processing the images. Depending on what software you're using, there may also be a slider or control called "recovery". This is intended to get the detail back into your photo that was lost by being overexposed. Picture shooting a photo of a white bird on a sunny day...the feather detail is normally lost. This can help bring it back into the image. The same slider can help bring the detail back into something like the stainless parts in your image. See the image below for an example - this is a screen capture from Photoshop Lightroom. One way or the other, what you're shooting for is not easy. I'd say you're doing pretty damn well with what you've posted. Apologies to the others if this got a little off-track - just trying to help. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4RNhvQP/0/XL/i-4RNhvQP-XL.jpg Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By gotfish:
The black and stainless combo is odd in photos, but maybe I should turn down the ISO or increase the shutter speed to make it darker than photoshop the exposure. The difference between extreme colors, or extremely dark / light areas in a photo is referred to as dynamic range. The better the camera (with digital), typically the better the dynamic range. Full-frame sensors (Canon 5d series, for example) are usually better at capturing a wider range than crop sensors or (especially) point and shoot cameras. Turning your ISO down (more towards ISO100) will always help with noise, but you will likely reach a point where you need to shoot with a tripod for best results. Deliberately underexposing an image and then making up for it in Photoshop (or any odd-version of Photoshop) will typically introduce more noise (a.k.a. grain) into your photo than if you had exposed it properly in the original image file. As bad as purists will think this sounds, this is where HDR photography can have its advantages. The key is often to blend several images with good software, rather than 3 drastically different images, and to have shot the original images with the camera in the exact same location with the exact same lens and ISO settings (f/8 and up, for example). It's also important not to get even a little carried away with the settings while processing the images. Depending on what software you're using, there may also be a slider or control called "recovery". This is intended to get the detail back into your photo that was lost by being overexposed. Picture shooting a photo of a white bird on a sunny day...the feather detail is normally lost. This can help bring it back into the image. The same slider can help bring the detail back into something like the stainless parts in your image. See the image below for an example - this is a screen capture from Photoshop Lightroom. One way or the other, what you're shooting for is not easy. I'd say you're doing pretty damn well with what you've posted. Apologies to the others if this got a little off-track - just trying to help. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4RNhvQP/0/XL/i-4RNhvQP-XL.jpg I want Lightroom 5 
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USA
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Posted: 10/15/2013 10:18:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: blackofwhite]
[#18]
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Posted: 10/15/2013 10:19:56 PM EDT
[#19]
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UT, USA
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Posted: 10/16/2013 12:52:30 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Munition]
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By westford86:
The key is managing your light source not messing with your exposure. With reflective metal you're basically taking a picture of your light source. For a black rifle with stainless/reflective parts, you're probably going to have the best luck with a large soft light close to the firearm. If you know what you're doing, you don't need to use HDR, and other such foolishness. Stainless guns have been around for a long time, and people have been photographing them long before digital. Lighting, you mush learn lighting... Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By westford86:
Originally Posted By jukeboxx13:
Originally Posted By sgwlower:
Originally Posted By jukeboxx13:
How can I make this photo better since it's pretty hard for me to really capture the stainless parts. http://imageshack.us/a/img69/7655/iws7.jpg http:// I have the same issue--the shap contrast between polished stainless and black is hard to capture! Something about it leaves the black ultra sharp, and the stainless less defined. See below: http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2875/9904834695_69613be391_c.jpg The key is managing your light source not messing with your exposure. With reflective metal you're basically taking a picture of your light source. For a black rifle with stainless/reflective parts, you're probably going to have the best luck with a large soft light close to the firearm. If you know what you're doing, you don't need to use HDR, and other such foolishness. Stainless guns have been around for a long time, and people have been photographing them long before digital. Lighting, you mush learn lighting... Agree with that wholeheartedly. If it was me, I'd try a different angle. shooting from above the gun directly aiming down onto it will only allow you to see the shine of the reflected area that are above the gun as well. Which I'm guessing is often nothing more than an overcast sky...which is normally great, but not when its being reflected on stainless. Shiny things are often better taken inside. rings, watches, cars, products etc. actual lights are reflected off and it looks much better that way. perhaps off set your angle. play with a white poster for soft light accents. And get in close to the stainless. |
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Posted: 10/16/2013 2:22:03 AM EDT
[Last Edit: mdean2011]
[#21]
I will add a few submissions.
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Posted: 10/16/2013 9:14:41 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By westford86: The key is managing your light source not messing with your exposure. With reflective metal you're basically taking a picture of your light source. For a black rifle with stainless/reflective parts, you're probably going to have the best luck with a large soft light close to the firearm. If you know what you're doing, you don't need to use HDR, and other such foolishness. Stainless guns have been around for a long time, and people have been photographing them long before digital. Lighting, you mush learn lighting... Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By westford86: Originally Posted By jukeboxx13: Originally Posted By sgwlower: Originally Posted By jukeboxx13: How can I make this photo better since it's pretty hard for me to really capture the stainless parts. http://imageshack.us/a/img69/7655/iws7.jpg http:// I have the same issue--the shap contrast between polished stainless and black is hard to capture! Something about it leaves the black ultra sharp, and the stainless less defined. See below: http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2875/9904834695_69613be391_c.jpg The key is managing your light source not messing with your exposure. With reflective metal you're basically taking a picture of your light source. For a black rifle with stainless/reflective parts, you're probably going to have the best luck with a large soft light close to the firearm. If you know what you're doing, you don't need to use HDR, and other such foolishness. Stainless guns have been around for a long time, and people have been photographing them long before digital. Lighting, you mush learn lighting... I try bouncing some light of some white wallpaper for that soft lighting you speak of, unless you have other tips.
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Posted: 10/16/2013 9:16:38 AM EDT
[Last Edit: jukeboxx13]
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By gotfish: The difference between extreme colors, or extremely dark / light areas in a photo is referred to as dynamic range. The better the camera (with digital), typically the better the dynamic range. Full-frame sensors (Canon 5d series, for example) are usually better at capturing a wider range than crop sensors or (especially) point and shoot cameras. Turning your ISO down (more towards ISO100) will always help with noise, but you will likely reach a point where you need to shoot with a tripod for best results. Deliberately underexposing an image and then making up for it in Photoshop (or any odd-version of Photoshop) will typically introduce more noise (a.k.a. grain) into your photo than if you had exposed it properly in the original image file. As bad as purists will think this sounds, this is where HDR photography can have its advantages. The key is often to blend several images with good software, rather than 3 drastically different images, and to have shot the original images with the camera in the exact same location with the exact same lens and ISO settings (f/8 and up, for example). It's also important not to get even a little carried away with the settings while processing the images. Depending on what software you're using, there may also be a slider or control called "recovery". This is intended to get the detail back into your photo that was lost by being overexposed. Picture shooting a photo of a white bird on a sunny day...the feather detail is normally lost. This can help bring it back into the image. The same slider can help bring the detail back into something like the stainless parts in your image. See the image below for an example - this is a screen capture from Photoshop Lightroom. One way or the other, what you're shooting for is not easy. I'd say you're doing pretty damn well with what you've posted. Apologies to the others if this got a little off-track - just trying to help. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4RNhvQP/0/XL/i-4RNhvQP-XL.jpg Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By gotfish: The black and stainless combo is odd in photos, but maybe I should turn down the ISO or increase the shutter speed to make it darker than photoshop the exposure. The difference between extreme colors, or extremely dark / light areas in a photo is referred to as dynamic range. The better the camera (with digital), typically the better the dynamic range. Full-frame sensors (Canon 5d series, for example) are usually better at capturing a wider range than crop sensors or (especially) point and shoot cameras. Turning your ISO down (more towards ISO100) will always help with noise, but you will likely reach a point where you need to shoot with a tripod for best results. Deliberately underexposing an image and then making up for it in Photoshop (or any odd-version of Photoshop) will typically introduce more noise (a.k.a. grain) into your photo than if you had exposed it properly in the original image file. As bad as purists will think this sounds, this is where HDR photography can have its advantages. The key is often to blend several images with good software, rather than 3 drastically different images, and to have shot the original images with the camera in the exact same location with the exact same lens and ISO settings (f/8 and up, for example). It's also important not to get even a little carried away with the settings while processing the images. Depending on what software you're using, there may also be a slider or control called "recovery". This is intended to get the detail back into your photo that was lost by being overexposed. Picture shooting a photo of a white bird on a sunny day...the feather detail is normally lost. This can help bring it back into the image. The same slider can help bring the detail back into something like the stainless parts in your image. See the image below for an example - this is a screen capture from Photoshop Lightroom. One way or the other, what you're shooting for is not easy. I'd say you're doing pretty damn well with what you've posted. Apologies to the others if this got a little off-track - just trying to help. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4RNhvQP/0/XL/i-4RNhvQP-XL.jpg Nice editing btw.
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Posted: 10/16/2013 9:18:04 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Munition: Agree with that wholeheartedly. If it was me, I'd try a different angle. shooting from above the gun directly aiming down onto it will only allow you to see the shine of the reflected area that are above the gun as well. Which I'm guessing is often nothing more than an overcast sky...which is normally great, but not when its being reflected on stainless. Shiny things are often better taken inside. rings, watches, cars, products etc. actual lights are reflected off and it looks much better that way. perhaps off set your angle. play with a white poster for soft light accents. And get in close to the stainless. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Munition: Originally Posted By westford86: Originally Posted By jukeboxx13: Originally Posted By sgwlower: Originally Posted By jukeboxx13: How can I make this photo better since it's pretty hard for me to really capture the stainless parts. http://imageshack.us/a/img69/7655/iws7.jpg http:// I have the same issue--the shap contrast between polished stainless and black is hard to capture! Something about it leaves the black ultra sharp, and the stainless less defined. See below: http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2875/9904834695_69613be391_c.jpg The key is managing your light source not messing with your exposure. With reflective metal you're basically taking a picture of your light source. For a black rifle with stainless/reflective parts, you're probably going to have the best luck with a large soft light close to the firearm. If you know what you're doing, you don't need to use HDR, and other such foolishness. Stainless guns have been around for a long time, and people have been photographing them long before digital. Lighting, you mush learn lighting... Agree with that wholeheartedly. If it was me, I'd try a different angle. shooting from above the gun directly aiming down onto it will only allow you to see the shine of the reflected area that are above the gun as well. Which I'm guessing is often nothing more than an overcast sky...which is normally great, but not when its being reflected on stainless. Shiny things are often better taken inside. rings, watches, cars, products etc. actual lights are reflected off and it looks much better that way. perhaps off set your angle. play with a white poster for soft light accents. And get in close to the stainless. |
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Posted: 10/16/2013 10:49:56 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Munition:
Agree with that wholeheartedly. If it was me, I'd try a different angle. shooting from above the gun directly aiming down onto it will only allow you to see the shine of the reflected area that are above the gun as well. Which I'm guessing is often nothing more than an overcast sky...which is normally great, but not when its being reflected on stainless. Shiny things are often better taken inside. rings, watches, cars, products etc. actual lights are reflected off and it looks much better that way. perhaps off set your angle. play with a white poster for soft light accents. And get in close to the stainless. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Munition:
Originally Posted By westford86:
Originally Posted By jukeboxx13:
Originally Posted By sgwlower:
Originally Posted By jukeboxx13:
How can I make this photo better since it's pretty hard for me to really capture the stainless parts. http://imageshack.us/a/img69/7655/iws7.jpg http:// I have the same issue--the shap contrast between polished stainless and black is hard to capture! Something about it leaves the black ultra sharp, and the stainless less defined. See below: http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2875/9904834695_69613be391_c.jpg The key is managing your light source not messing with your exposure. With reflective metal you're basically taking a picture of your light source. For a black rifle with stainless/reflective parts, you're probably going to have the best luck with a large soft light close to the firearm. If you know what you're doing, you don't need to use HDR, and other such foolishness. Stainless guns have been around for a long time, and people have been photographing them long before digital. Lighting, you mush learn lighting... Agree with that wholeheartedly. If it was me, I'd try a different angle. shooting from above the gun directly aiming down onto it will only allow you to see the shine of the reflected area that are above the gun as well. Which I'm guessing is often nothing more than an overcast sky...which is normally great, but not when its being reflected on stainless. Shiny things are often better taken inside. rings, watches, cars, products etc. actual lights are reflected off and it looks much better that way. perhaps off set your angle. play with a white poster for soft light accents. And get in close to the stainless. Thanks for the info! |
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Posted: 10/16/2013 11:18:03 AM EDT
[#26]
Check it out and give me input.
Lighting kits. |
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Posted: 10/16/2013 5:47:30 PM EDT
[#27]
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Posted: 10/17/2013 10:04:58 PM EDT
[#28]
_MG_4938 by 4DAIVIPAI2K5, on Flickr 
_MG_4947 by 4DAIVIPAI2K5, on Flickr 
_MG_4943 by 4DAIVIPAI2K5, on Flickr |
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UT, USA
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Posted: 10/18/2013 12:42:48 AM EDT
[#29]
Nice pics. Lets keep em coming. Here's my latest.
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FL, USA
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Posted: 10/18/2013 5:25:37 AM EDT
[#30]
Going to take some more today of my collection so far but here's one i had of my m&p Straight from the camera.
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r155/prtyboy740_15/IMG_2061_zps1e4081d2.jpg |
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MD, USA
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Posted: 10/18/2013 8:34:25 AM EDT
[#31]
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Posted: 10/18/2013 4:50:27 PM EDT
[#32]
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Posted: 10/19/2013 1:27:37 AM EDT
[#33]
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FL, USA
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Posted: 10/19/2013 1:46:41 AM EDT
[#34]
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VA, USA
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Posted: 10/19/2013 8:39:13 AM EDT
[#35]
 " />
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USA
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Posted: 10/20/2013 2:49:06 AM EDT
[#36]
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Posted: 10/20/2013 9:20:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4DAIVIPAI2K5]
[#37]
Members inspired me to try my hand at a black background. Once again I have no idea what I'm doing just taking pictures and clicking shit in CS5 lol
Yes she is a dirty girl, Mk18 that only shoots suppressed while getting fed tasty Russian grub. 
Back by 4DAIVIPAI2K5, on Flickr |
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Posted: 10/20/2013 10:21:12 PM EDT
[#38]
What camers do you guys have. I want to take pics like this but dont have a camera.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 10/20/2013 10:54:00 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Members inspired me to try my hand at a black background. Once again I have no idea what I'm doing just taking pictures and clicking shit in CS5 lol Yes she is a dirty girl, Mk18 that only shoots suppressed while getting fed tasty Russian grub. [email=mailto:http://www.flickr.com/photos/40500049@N08/10393889215/]http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2884/10393889215_9ca520f73c.jpg[/email] Back by 4DAIVIPAI2K5, on Flickr I like! |
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Posted: 10/21/2013 7:19:13 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tango_6:
What camers do you guys have. I want to take pics like this but dont have a camera. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tango_6:
What camers do you guys have. I want to take pics like this but dont have a camera. I'm running a Canon T3i Originally Posted By rksonex:
Originally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Members inspired me to try my hand at a black background. Once again I have no idea what I'm doing just taking pictures and clicking shit in CS5 lol Yes she is a dirty girl, Mk18 that only shoots suppressed while getting fed tasty Russian grub. [email=mailto:http://www.flickr.com/photos/40500049@N08/10393889215/]http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2884/10393889215_9ca520f73c.jpg[/email] Back by 4DAIVIPAI2K5, on Flickr I like! Thank you. |
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Posted: 10/21/2013 8:53:13 AM EDT
[#41]
I use this lens:
On this body: 
And this battery pack: 
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Posted: 10/21/2013 10:48:24 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By imjb1911:
And this battery pack: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41a0RVI0U5L.jpg Never seen this... I have 3 reg batteries that I just switch out. |
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Posted: 10/21/2013 11:51:48 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tango_6:
What camers do you guys have. I want to take pics like this but dont have a camera. Nikon D5000 for me. |
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Posted: 10/21/2013 12:32:29 PM EDT
[#44]
I use a Canon t4i and a 28-135 IS.
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Posted: 10/21/2013 1:25:38 PM EDT
[#45]
I mainly use Canon 5D2 + 100L or a 24L. |
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Posted: 10/21/2013 1:49:05 PM EDT
[#46]
canon T2i
18-55mm or a 50mm 1.8 lens |
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Posted: 10/21/2013 1:49:52 PM EDT
[#47]
Amazing how many AR-15's are not in this thread.
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Posted: 10/21/2013 3:25:49 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FL_Kidd:
Going to take some more today of my collection so far but here's one i had of my m&p Straight from the camera. <a href="http://s143.photobucket.com/user/prtyboy740_15/media/IMG_2061_zps1e4081d2.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r155/prtyboy740_15/IMG_2061_zps1e4081d2.jpg</a> Cool idea, love the lighting. 
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USA
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Posted: 10/21/2013 6:43:54 PM EDT
[#49]
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UT, USA
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Posted: 10/21/2013 8:32:24 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tango_6:
What camers do you guys have. I want to take pics like this but dont have a camera. For about half of my pics in this thread I've used this:... 
Otherwise I've been using a D3100. Lighting is everything.... |
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