AR Sponsor
Posted: 10/23/2009 9:21:00 PM EDT
| Reducing AR trigger pull weight.... I know about the drop in kits. Any of you done your own triggers ? I'm getting ready to do a job on my Colt 6721. Thought I'd do some homework first. Thanks. |
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I've thought about it a lot, but I always end up getting board and selling my build to build something different... Never get around to doing a trigger job.
I will say this though. When you do it, make sure to to a complete function test before firing it, and then put 1 round, and 1 round only in the magazine when you fire it. Put 3-5 rounds through it one round in the mag at a time, and then put a couple of rounds in the mag. Make sure that puppy is ROCK solid before you put a full mag in it. Especially if you have an M16 bolt and/or un/notched hammer. |
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Reducing AR trigger pull weight.... I know about the drop in kits. Any of you done your own triggers ? I'm getting ready to do a job on my Colt 6721. Thought I'd do some homework first. Thanks. I use Jewell Triggers. There one of best triggers on the market today. They are adjustable from 1 lb. to 6 lbs. I have bin using them for over 10 years andd they never let me down. It's a good idea to use KNS non-rotating pins, they stop pin walk and stop wear and tear on the lower pin holes. If you need more info. IM me. That's IMHO. Mike |
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Reducing AR trigger pull weight.... I know about the drop in kits. Any of you done your own triggers ? I'm getting ready to do a job on my Colt 6721. Thought I'd do some homework first. Thanks. I use Jewell Triggers. There one of best triggers on the market today. They are adjustable from 1 lb. to 6 lbs. I have bin using them for over 10 years andd they never let me down. It's a good idea to use KNS non-rotating pins, they stop pin walk and stop wear and tear on the lower pin holes. If you need more info. IM me. That's IMHO. Mike Same here with the Jewell's! |
| AGI has a really good AR trigger job video. My first attempt after studying the video resulted in a nice, crisp 3.75# trigger w/ nearly 0 creep. It took me about 6hrs, as I went very slowly and fitted back into the lower frequently. At one point, I went too far (trigger was breaking below 2#) and had to recut the sear surface. This whole process goes a lot quicker w/ a trigger fixture from Brownell's, but I don't see it's absolutely necessary. If you take the time to learn how the trigger works, what positive sear surface engagement is and looks like, and know how to properly perform function/safety checks (dry and live fire), I don't really understand the big deal. BTW I did not replace any springs, I only stoned/reshaped the sear surfaces and removed mat'l from the limiter on the disco. If you're serious about doing it yourself and need help, pm me. I can shoot some pictures of what and where to stone/shape and walk you through it. ASSUMING you understand and can recognize proper sear engagement angles. |
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AGI has a really good AR trigger job video. My first attempt after studying the video resulted in a nice, crisp 3.75# trigger w/ nearly 0 creep. It took me about 6hrs, as I went very slowly and fitted back into the lower frequently. At one point, I went too far (trigger was breaking below 2#) and had to recut the sear surface. This whole process goes a lot quicker w/ a trigger fixture from Brownell's, but I don't see it's absolutely necessary. If you take the time to learn how the trigger works, what positive sear surface engagement is and looks like, and know how to properly perform function/safety checks (dry and live fire), I don't really understand the big deal. BTW I did not replace any springs, I only stoned/reshaped the sear surfaces and removed mat'l from the limiter on the disco. If you're serious about doing it yourself and need help, pm me. I can shoot some pictures of what and where to stone/shape and walk you through it. ASSUMING you understand and can recognize proper sear engagement angles. stormking, Thank You.... PM inbound.... It looks like AGI dvd is needed and PC II jig with adapter... The stones I have. Thanks. |
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I've thought about it a lot, but I always end up getting board and selling my build to build something different... Never get around to doing a trigger job. I will say this though. When you do it, make sure to to a complete function test before firing it, and then put 1 round, and 1 round only in the magazine when you fire it. Put 3-5 rounds through it one round in the mag at a time, and then put a couple of rounds in the mag. Make sure that puppy is ROCK solid before you put a full mag in it. Especially if you have an M16 bolt and/or un/notched hammer. Uh, why? It's a trigger job, not installing a sear or removing a disconnector. It's not rocket science to polish the contact surfaces of a FCG to smooth things up a bit. And you don't have to worry about "building an illegal machine gun" either.  Sometimes I wonder if some folks here have ever disassembled their rifles, or even understand how a FA FCG works.
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Perhaps it's YOU who doesn't understand the way the rifle functions.
The disconnector only works so long as the trigger is held BACK. As soon as you relieve pressure from the trigger, it will dump the hammer onto the sear. If the sear doesn't hold when the hammer is dumped, guess what! It's gonna fire again! Not good if you're not expecting it! And I'm not a lawyer, but the ATF could construe that as a machine gun! Even if they've said otherwise in the past, that doesn't mean they can't change their minds at a whim. I've been building guns (no, not just assembling lego ARs) for several years. I'm fully aware of the operations that go on within many of the various trigger types, including this particular rifle; and the safety precautions required when modifying those parts. The sear itself doesn't do much on its own. It's an integral part of a complete SYSTEM. You should consider thinking the function of the ENTIRE system through, not just what that one single part does––especially before you go haphazardly jumping inside your rifle with files, a Dremel, or whatever else you reckon will 'git 'er done!'. 
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Perhaps it's YOU who doesn't understand the way the rifle functions. The disconnector only works so long as the trigger is held BACK. As soon as you relieve pressure from the trigger, it will dump the hammer onto the sear. If the sear doesn't hold when the hammer is dumped, guess what! It's gonna fire again! Not good if you're not expecting it! And I'm not a lawyer, but the ATF could construe that as a machine gun! Even if they've said otherwise in the past, that doesn't mean they can't change their minds at a whim. I've been building guns (no, not just assembling lego ARs) for several years. I'm fully aware of the operations that go on within many of the various trigger types, including this particular rifle; and the safety precautions required when modifying those parts. The sear itself doesn't do much on its own. It's an integral part of a complete SYSTEM. You should consider thinking the function of the ENTIRE system through, not just what that one single part does––especially before you go haphazardly jumping inside your rifle with files, a Dremel, or whatever else you reckon will 'git 'er done!'. You're not talking about a "trigger job." You're talking about what happens when a hack goes at trigger and hammer with a file and a gleam in his eye. Smoothing a trigger and hammer with a very fine stone will take off microns of metal, not enough for the trigger to not catch the hammer when it was released. A thumb-fingered idiot would be more likely to destroy the hammer and trigger instead of making them too close for safety. In that case, the gun just wouldn't cock at all and he'd be left with an expensive club and a stupid look on his face. |
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Wow...... I've never heard of taking a file, Dremel, and a glean in the eye to a sear before..... I know it wouldn't work on a 1911.. I'll bet it doesn't work worth a damn on ARs either... What I was really looking for here... was there a spring change that could be made ? Before posting I hadn't researched parts availability and wasn't sure if my PC1 jig would work.... Now that I've researched.. The only jig I've found made to work is PC2 jig and AGI produced a dvd...... So..... I want to thank everyone for their input and entertainment. Before this thread jumps astray. Is there anything else ? Here's what I'm after... 2.5lbs that breaks like glass and rest assured I have zero interest in an aftermarket trigger group. There is a wager riding on this.... A certain soldier who is in Iraq and will remain anonymous has said it cannot be done and if done has agreed to leave his cell phone at home upon returning from Iraq for no less than 8 hours while we catch up on some range time.. Additional tips would be most appreciated. Thanks.
P.S. Yea, I know getting help online isn't exactly fair...  but it wasn't discussed as part of the deal, now was it ?
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I was being extreme, but that was in response to an extreme statement. I'm certain there ARE people who have goobered a fair number of AR FCGs (and 1911 sears) with more exuberance than skill, but as I said, it's more likely they made the parts non-functional instead of illegal.
Wow...... I've never heard of taking a file, Dremel, and a glean in the eye to a sear before..... I know it wouldn't work on a 1911.. I'll bet it doesn't work worth a damn on ARs either... What I was really looking for here... was there a spring change that could be made ? Before posting I hadn't researched parts availability and wasn't sure if my PC1 jig would work.... Now that I've researched.. The only jig I've found made to work is PC2 jig and AGI produced a dvd...... So..... I want to thank everyone for their input and entertainment. Before this thread jumps astray. Is there anything else ? Here's what I'm after... 2.5lbs that breaks like glass and rest assured I have zero interest in an aftermarket trigger group. There is a wager riding on this.... A certain soldier who is in Iraq and will remain anonymous has said it cannot be done and if done has agreed to leave his cell phone at home upon returning from Iraq for no less than 8 hours while we catch up on some range time.. Additional tips would be most appreciated. Thanks. P.S. Yea, I know getting help online isn't exactly fair... but it wasn't discussed as part of the deal, now was it ?You can go with Wolff springs to lighten the trigger and hammer, making the pull lighter, and you can do things like putting polishing compound on the mating surfaces and cycling them a bunch of times. Or you can go with sending your FCG to Bill Springfield who will make it really smooth and break at about 3 pounds. Below about 3 pounds you can run into problems because of recoil forces and such; you want clean and crisp, not accidental bump firing, so I'd go with 3ish instead of any lower. |
| I knew where you were coming from GHPorter. What I was trying to convey is that I'm not some wannabe gunsmith hack.... Amateur gunsmith maybe.. hack.. hardly. Just looking for some good advice from those who have experience. Thanks for the Wolff spring tip. I looked for lighter springs in my Midwayusa catalog. I'll go back and get out the Brownells. Thanks so Much. |
| I've found the JPEnterprises spring set to be very good bang for the buck. I've had zero problems with them. I like to use them with the slightest bit of stoning and the Brownell's sear lube. Makes a decent trigger (although probably nothing approaching 2.5#). I like it as much as a stock RRA two stage. No where near as nice as my aftemarket Golden trigger though. |
| For a cheap trigger upgrade polish the engagement surfaces on the seer and trigger and than drop in a jp spring kit. This will make the trigger smoother and lighter. This will not help you with the overtravel though and the seer engagement will still be excessive which will make the trigger grind a bit instead of breaking cleanly. I use JP triggers in my rifles because they allow the user to fine tune the seer engagement as well as the overtravel of the trigger without having to stone off parts of the seer running the risk of bunging it up. Of course any of the one piece drop in units such as the Jewell, Wilson, JP's drop in etc. will get you set up with no fine tuning required at all. Theses one peice units cost a bit more though. I am wary of all multi-peice replacement triggers that do not require fine tuning by the user as dimensions vary greatly receiver to receiver and since they have no adjustment their function will vary as well. The Jard seems to be particularly prone to problems in some receivers for this reason. |
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Perhaps it's YOU who doesn't understand the way the rifle functions. The disconnector only works so long as the trigger is held BACK. As soon as you relieve pressure from the trigger, it will dump the hammer onto the sear. If the sear doesn't hold when the hammer is dumped, guess what! It's gonna fire again! Not good if you're not expecting it! And I'm not a lawyer, but the ATF could construe that as a machine gun! Even if they've said otherwise in the past, that doesn't mean they can't change their minds at a whim. I've been building guns (no, not just assembling lego ARs) for several years. I'm fully aware of the operations that go on within many of the various trigger types, including this particular rifle; and the safety precautions required when modifying those parts. The sear itself doesn't do much on its own. It's an integral part of a complete SYSTEM. You should consider thinking the function of the ENTIRE system through, not just what that one single part does––especially before you go haphazardly jumping inside your rifle with files, a Dremel, or whatever else you reckon will 'git 'er done!'. You're not talking about a "trigger job." You're talking about what happens when a hack goes at trigger and hammer with a file and a gleam in his eye. Smoothing a trigger and hammer with a very fine stone will take off microns of metal, not enough for the trigger to not catch the hammer when it was released. A thumb-fingered idiot would be more likely to destroy the hammer and trigger instead of making them too close for safety. In that case, the gun just wouldn't cock at all and he'd be left with an expensive club and a stupid look on his face. First of all, I was responding to the post above mine. I'm saying, I've seen enough people with the attitude that nothing can go wrong, which it appeared to me was the same one the post above mine had. Naturally simply a little polishing probably ISN'T going to be a problem, but the fact that none of us has ANY IDEA of the skill level of the OP, we don't know what his idea of stoning is... How much he'd be willing to take off, and whether or not he'd take off enough to affect positive sear engagement. I also disagree that the gun wouldn't cock at all in that situation. It's not really that hard to get a gun to cock and hold the hammer back for long enough for the bolt to close, but when parts start slamming around like they do when the gun is being actually fired, it's a different story, and you CAN turn a gun into a full auto, that'll keep on firing 'till the mag runs dry (or until you have the presence of mind to actually PULL the trigger to get it to stop––which NOBODY is going to have in that situation). What's so hard about taking an extra 5 min and testing for proper safe function of the rifle, BEFORE you load up a full mag and let her rip? To the OP, sorry, I didn't mean to imply that YOU were going to take a dremel to your trigger, although it MIGHT work out pretty will with a buffing wheel and some polishing compound, to get an ultra-smooth surface. ;) |
WrenchMonkey.... Don't sweat it, your heart is in the right place and you were trying to help..... thanks for your concerns and your advice.....now, somewhere around here is that 4 1/2 inch grinder. If only I could find it I could get back to work on this group of sears... there it is...... Thanks WrenchMonkey !
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Quoted: I was thinking about taking the 4-1/2 grinder and a cut-off wheel to trim my other hammer to make a speedhammer for my 5.45 AR15.WrenchMonkey.... Don't sweat it, your heart is in the right place and you were trying to help..... thanks for your concerns and your advice.....now, somewhere around here is that 4 1/2 inch grinder. If only I could find it I could get back to work on this group of sears... there it is...... Thanks WrenchMonkey ! |
| I'd be lying if I said I hadn't considered copping the tail off a hammer to make a speed hammer. That's a completely different part, and should not affect safety of the rifles whatsoever. You may find that you need a stiffer hammer spring with a lighter hammer, though, to get a reliable primer ignition every time... Could be counter-productive, based on the trigger weight that said springs could cause. |
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Quoted: True.I'd be lying if I said I hadn't considered copping the tail off a hammer to make a speed hammer. That's a completely different part, and should not affect safety of the rifles whatsoever. You may find that you need a stiffer hammer spring with a lighter hammer, though, to get a reliable primer ignition every time... Could be counter-productive, based on the trigger weight that said springs could cause. It's been too long since statics/dynamics classes for me to remember how to get the right answer the first time. I haven't needed to figure that crap out in years. |
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Reducing AR trigger pull weight.... I know about the drop in kits. Any of you done your own triggers ? I'm getting ready to do a job on my Colt 6721. Thought I'd do some homework first. Thanks. Just built a lower where I smoothed the trigger...look up "15 minute trigger job"....it works....I did not cut my trigger spring though...just a slight bend. It worked so well I did it to my 6720 and it was just fine. You'll need some material to polish the parts - and don't forget all the engagement surfaces (especially where the sear and the disconnector engage) |
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I'd be lying if I said I hadn't considered copping the tail off a hammer to make a speed hammer. That's a completely different part, and should not affect safety of the rifles whatsoever. You may find that you need a stiffer hammer spring with a lighter hammer, though, to get a reliable primer ignition every time... Could be counter-productive, based on the trigger weight that said springs could cause. I am running the JP spring kit and also took the tail off the hammer to lighten it. It is actually the reverse of what you are saying. Kinetic energy is the mass times the velocity squared. With the lighter springs you need to lighten the hammer to get the velocity up for reliable primer ignition. The fact that you get a double whammy with the velocity is what makes this formula work. There are some acceleration benefits to the lower rotational inertia as well but the net effect is striking the firing pin with more energy. There is a reason you see the after market triggers with lighter springs and speed hammer combos. Anyway the JP springs, lightened hammer, and about 50 cycles with polishing compound on sear-hammer interface made a night and day difference. You might give this a shot before stoning as there is no risk of breaking through the case hardening on the parts. |
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Quoted: Quoted: I'd be lying if I said I hadn't considered copping the tail off a hammer to make a speed hammer. That's a completely different part, and should not affect safety of the rifles whatsoever. You may find that you need a stiffer hammer spring with a lighter hammer, though, to get a reliable primer ignition every time... Could be counter-productive, based on the trigger weight that said springs could cause. I am running the JP spring kit and also took the tail off the hammer to lighten it. It is actually the reverse of what you are saying. Kinetic energy is the mass times the velocity squared. With the lighter springs you need to lighten the hammer to get the velocity up for reliable primer ignition. The fact that you get a double whammy with the velocity is what makes this formula work. There are some acceleration benefits to the lower rotational inertia as well but the net effect is striking the firing pin with more energy. There is a reason you see the after market triggers with lighter springs and speed hammer combos. Anyway the JP springs, lightened hammer, and about 50 cycles with polishing compound on sear-hammer interface made a night and day difference. You might give this a shot before stoning as there is no risk of breaking through the case hardening on the parts.  |
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I'm not an engineer, but you've got to account for the loss of mass of the hammer. The lighter the hammer, the less kinetic energy it transfers into the firing pin. It's possible that the faster velocity may be enough to offset that loss though. Like I said, I'm not an engineer.
But in that previous post, what I said was, you MAY find that to be the case that you need a heavier spring. I haven't tried it personally, but I've heard of a few people who did run into that issue. If you're shooting commercial ammo, it will probably not be an issue, but the harder primers found in milsurp may prove troublesome. YMMV. The whole idea behind the lighter hammer is not that it requires lighter springs, but that it shortens "Match time", for greater accuracy. I'll definitely be playing around with this stuff this winter, now that I have a garage to work in, and going to be spending plenty of time indoors... |
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It's a good idea to use KNS non-rotating pins, they stop pin walk and stop wear and tear on the lower pin holes. Mike If there were such a thing as a mechanical panacea, KNS pins would be the poster child. For the life of me, I can not understand the shameless promotion of this kit. Do they have pay-per-post program that I missed out on? After a little polishing and reduced power springs, add a touch of moly grease on the sear and trigger hook on the hammer. |
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The lighter the hammer, the less kinetic energy it transfers into the firing pin. The hammer spring is the energy. The hammer is just how it is delivered. The spring imparts X energy to a the motionless mass of the hammer. A lighter hammer moves faster. Heavier moves slower. Both should have equal energy. |
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The hammer spring is the energy. The hammer is just how it is delivered. The spring imparts X energy to a the motionless mass of the hammer. A lighter hammer moves faster. Heavier moves slower. Both should have equal energy.
Nope. The heavier hammer will capture more of the springs energy than the lighter hammer. The lighter hammer will travel faster, but not enough faster to equal the energy imparted to the heavier hammer. The difference may be small or large, depending on the specific relationship between the two hammer weights and the spring's parameters (rate, mass), but there will be a difference in favor of the heavier hammer. |
| There is always energy that is not transferred to the hammer. That energy is dissipated in the spring (e.g. the 'sproing' you hear in the buffer tube is the buffer spring dissipating untransferred energy as sound). A lighter hammer results in more energy retained in and dissipated in the spring than a heavier hammer. It comes out as audible and inaudible vibration, and heat. |
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The lighter hammer captures less of the springs energy than a heavy hammer, because it has less intertia.
Think of it this way: Compress and release a spring with no hammer attached. The spring is going to keep 100% of its energy, and it will rebound at a certain velocity. Next, attach a hammer that weighs 0.1 grain. Compress and release the spring. That insignificant hammer mass is not going to slow that spring down any, so the spring is going to rebound at nearly the exact same velocity as if there were no hammer attached at all, i.e. nearly all the energy is still in the spring. Next attach a 50gr hammer. Compress and release the spring. Now you've got some mass to accelerate. Less energy will be left in the spring, and its rebound velocity will drop. As you continue to add mass to the hammer, more of the springs energy will be spent accelerating the hammer, vs accelerating the spring. This effect is significant in bows. A bow is nothing more or less than a spring that drives an arrow like a hammer spring drives a hammer. Shoot a heavy arrow, and it will capture a large percentage of the bow's (spring's) stored energy. Shoot a light arrow and it will go faster than the heavy arrow from the same bow, but it will capture less energy from the bow. More energy will be left in the bow, and when it dissipates as heat and sound you will get a very loud bow shot. Shoot a ridiculously light arrow from a bow, and it may go really fast (much faster than the heavy arrow), but it will capture so little of the bows energy that the shot will be effectively the same as dry firing the bow. So much energy will be left in the bow (spring) that it will likely self destruct trying to dissipate that energy... Again, I dont know how much lighter you'd have to go on hammer weight before the difference in energy would be considered significant. That would depend on the spring parameters, etc. But there will be some loss of hammer energy ... |
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I am an engineer.
The total energy of the hammer will remain essentially the same througout the firing sequence. This energy starts out as potential energy due to the spring force and the mass of the cocked hammer. Once the hammer starts to move, the potential energy starts to convert to kinetic energy. As the hammer accelerates, the proportion of energy due to the spring goes down as the kinetic energy goes up. At the at the instant that the hammer strikes the firing pin, most of the spring energy will have converted to kinetic energy but some will still remain in the spring. Case A: The mass of the hammer is unchanged and a lighter spring is used. Compared to the stock system, the potential energy goes down for the cocked hammer and the sum of the kinetic energy and remaining spring energy will also be lower when the hammer hits the FP. Case B: The mass of the hammer is now lowered and a lighter spring is used. The potential energy of the cocked hammer is less than Case A. The sum of the kinetic energy and remaining spring energy will also be lower than Case A when the hammer hits the FP. |
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Quoted: I agree with everything you write, I just want to add:I am an engineer. The total energy of the hammer will remain essentially the same througout the firing sequence. This energy starts out as potential energy due to the spring force and the mass of the cocked hammer. Once the hammer starts to move, the potential energy starts to convert to kinetic energy. As the hammer accelerates, the proportion of energy due to the spring goes down as the kinetic energy goes up. At the at the instant that the hammer strikes the firing pin, most of the spring energy will have converted to kinetic energy but some will still remain in the spring. Case A: The mass of the hammer is unchanged and a lighter spring is used. Compared to the stock system, the potential energy goes down for the cocked hammer and the sum of the kinetic energy and remaining spring energy will also be lower when the hammer hits the FP. Case B: The mass of the hammer is now lowered and a lighter spring is used. The potential energy of the cocked hammer is less than Case A. The sum of the kinetic energy and remaining spring energy will also be lower than Case A when the hammer hits the FP. The reasons for the speedhammer (as I understand them) are: 1.) To allow the rotational weight of the hammer to have less of an affect on the weapon after you squeeze the trigger and before the hammer strike on the firing pin. 2.) To allow the hammer to accelerate faster, reducing the lag time between trigger squeeze and hammer strike which reduces the time that weapon movement can affect aim after trigger squeeze. 3.) This can be especially important after reducing the spring strength. These aren't overriding factors to what MACE_Hardware said, but additional factors that tend to be ignored. (It's been a long time for me since 'Mechanics of Machine Design'  ) |
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Three valid points. The first two I'm particularly in agreement with.
The other point is that we enjoy modifying stuff. I have to admit that I don't remember how to figure out the potential energy of a spring loaded rotating hammer. Probably has some "J"s and Omegas and stuff involved. |
| So... I'm lost here. Did you guys decide to go with a lighter hammer or keep stock hammer ? Combined, of course with JP lighter spring kit. I'm getting a Midway order together now for pick up tomorrow and thought I would include this project in order. Thanks. |
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Quoted: This is just me:So... I'm lost here. Did you guys decide to go with a lighter hammer or keep stock hammer ? Combined, of course with JP lighter spring kit. I'm getting a Midway order together now for pick up tomorrow and thought I would include this project in order. Thanks. 3.5# trigger job from Bill Springfield. It works like a pocketwatch. Smooth for my AR-22. 4# trigger job and speedhammer on an AR carbine, and a 4# trigger on an AR-5.45 rifle (no speedhammer, yet) shooting combloc surplus. The 5.56 carbine is great, haven't shot the 5.45 yet, but I will probably this weekend. Dryfire on snapcaps is nice on all 3. Triggerfinger feel is smooth. I'm discussing with Bill the speedhammer for the 5.45 yet. The trigger parts bags I got back for the 3.5# say: JPS3.5 AR15 Reduced Power Spring Kit. # 452-000-007 from Brownells. |
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My trigger has been polished until slick, JP 4lb springs with 0 FTF's, and a set screw through the grip to remove most of the creep. An excellent DYI project for confident tinkerers. Ignore the naysayers, nothing complicated or dangerous about AR trigger work, at least not if you have two functioning brain cells and can install adoor lock. Link here to my previous threadhere
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My trigger has been polished until slick, JP 4lb springs with 0 FTF's, and a set screw through the grip to remove most of the creep. An excellent DYI project for confident tinkerers. Ignore the naysayers, nothing complicated or dangerous about AR trigger work, at least not if you have two functioning brain cells and can install adoor lock. Link here to my previous threadhereI followed your thread and I have a question: is there a set screw that installs through the existing grip threads and hole into receiver or are you guys drilling and tapping the lower receivers to install this set screw? Thanks |
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My trigger has been polished until slick, JP 4lb springs with 0 FTF's, and a set screw through the grip to remove most of the creep. An excellent DYI project for confident tinkerers. Ignore the naysayers, nothing complicated or dangerous about AR trigger work, at least not if you have two functioning brain cells and can install adoor lock. Link here to my previous threadhereI followed your thread and I have a question: is there a set screw that installs through the existing grip threads and hole into receiver or are you guys drilling and tapping the lower receivers to install this set screw? Thanks There is an aftermarket grip screw that is drilled and tapped through its length for a set screw. Brownell's has them. |
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My trigger has been polished until slick, JP 4lb springs with 0 FTF's, and a set screw through the grip to remove most of the creep. An excellent DYI project for confident tinkerers. Ignore the naysayers, nothing complicated or dangerous about AR trigger work, at least not if you have two functioning brain cells and can install adoor lock. Link here to my previous threadhereI followed your thread and I have a question: is there a set screw that installs through the existing grip threads and hole into receiver or are you guys drilling and tapping the lower receivers to install this set screw? Thanks The hole usually goes all the way through, but may not be tapped the whole way through. You can tap the remainder of the hole, and put the set screw in, or drill from the other side with a slightly larger drill bit, and make room for the screw to go all the way through. Dont forget to put locktight on the screw once you find your sweet spot for your trigger, or it might walk around on you. |
| WE go through the grip screw hole. My ARmalite reciever was tapped all the way through, my friends Tactical Machines had the hole, but the threads needed to be chased to get the set screw through. With a 1/2" set screw, I had to shorten my grip screw, but my friend used a 3/8" set screw and a flat washer under the grip screw and it worked fine with no shortening. |
| I'm not sure the debate for a speed hammer was ever solved...or bobbing the factory hammer. After stoning hammer and sear with a ruby stone and installing the JP 3.5 pound spring set..................................... trigger breaks between 3lbs 1oz and 3lbs 2oz........................... with faint trace of creep that with a little work will be gone. First I want to range test Saturday. |
Range Update: Got to range late tonite. Couldn't get on because a bunch of guys have the range booked for weekend to train with AK47s.....  anyway it was getting dark, there was enough time to get off 40 rounds. What a difference the JP 3.5lb spring kit makes and a ruby stone. Still have a little creep and trigger is pulling at 3lbs 1 oz using unmodified Colt Factory hammer. Thanks for your help guys.
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