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Posted: 9/21/2013 4:32:54 PM EDT
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Hi, everyone. I'm new to AR15.com and new to the world of AR15's never owned one or shot one. Always been a bolt man. I'm looking into building my own gun or two or three.
Here's the info I'm looking for right now. I am of the understanding that an AR lower has little to do with the accuracy of a rifle, that most of the accuracy is inherent in the quality of the upper reciever and barrel. Is this true? I understand there has to be a break off point to that also. The reason I ask this is, I want a coyote/hole puncher good out to 600 yards. But if I can build with a $80 striped lower as opposed to a $200 striped lower that's $120 more to invest in the barrel. Comments and Opinions please, even if it's to tell me I'm off my rocker. |
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Quoted:
Hi, everyone. I'm new to AR15.com and new to the world of AR15's never owned one or shot one. Always been a bolt man. I'm looking into building my own gun or two or three. Here's the info I'm looking for right now. I am of the understanding that an AR lower has little to do with the accuracy of a rifle, that most of the accuracy is inherent in the quality of the upper reciever and barrel. Is this true? I understand there has to be a break off point to that also. The reason I ask this is, I want a coyote/hole puncher good out to 600 yards. But if I can build with a $80 striped lower as opposed to a $200 striped lower that's $120 more to invest in the barrel. Comments and Opinions please, even if it's to tell me I'm off my rocker. 600 yards for an AR-15 maybe pushing it a bit too much. IMHO a 5.56 or .223 round would probably be very effective up to 450 - 500 yards. I would do some research on that, but if i wanted to get out to 600 yards and still stay with the AR platform, I would look at a .308 Winchester/7.62 x51 rifle. 600 yards should be no problem with that caliber. I would start with this barrel and work out the rest. Rainier Arms Ultra Match 18" Barrel .308 |
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Ditto...
2 stage trigger + your upper. Your big choice is going to be picking your upper. Lots of choices. I used a j&t varminter kit fit my accuracy build. 20" ss 556 1:8 heavy barrel with their aluminum free float tube. And 600 yds Is doable. I was watching some good video of 800 yd groundhog kills with a similar setup. Think they were on youtube. |
| Thanks Gixxer, I've been looking at the SA&A lowers but see alot of mixed reviews on them. Most bad reviews seem to be of the cosmetics variety, thin anodizing , some with rough milling in mag well area, and stuff like that.. Which won't affect accuracy, and I'd be putting a camo paint job on it anyways so not worried about that stuff. Do you guys and gals think the SA&A Lower would make a good base from which to start. I need to make a decision within the month, my 1 year permit for handgun and black rifle purchase expires the 1st of Dec. Gotta love MN. |
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Quoted: You can always go to Aero themselves and pick up a blemished lower. They are a little cheaper and are great lowers. Its my understanding that Palmetto State Armory lowers are made by Aero also. PSA constantly has sales on lowers. ===================================== |
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Sometimes parts are hard to find.... they are coming back, but all its going to take is a big push by the anti's to send our world spinning again. Here is a link to in stock threads on ARFCOM. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/605352_Links_to_all_the_In_Stock_Threads.html |
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Quoted:
Sometimes parts are hard to find.... they are coming back, but all its going to take is a big push by the anti's to send our world spinning again. Here is a link to in stock threads on ARFCOM. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/605352_Links_to_all_the_In_Stock_Threads.html Thanks for the link, checked it out. Looked at the AreoPrecisionUSA site, seen there I can buy their uppers and lowers un-anodized. I think I may go that route since i plan on doing a dura-coat camo paint job any way. Aluminum won't rust like a typical long gun so would there be any disadvantage to going the route of anon-anodized set. |
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Quoted: Thanks for the link, checked it out. Looked at the AreoPrecisionUSA site, seen there I can buy their uppers and lowers un-anodized. I think I may go that route since i plan on doing a dura-coat camo paint job any way. Aluminum won't rust like a typical long gun so would there be any disadvantage to going the route of anon-anodized set. Quoted: Quoted: Sometimes parts are hard to find.... they are coming back, but all its going to take is a big push by the anti's to send our world spinning again. Here is a link to in stock threads on ARFCOM. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/605352_Links_to_all_the_In_Stock_Threads.html Thanks for the link, checked it out. Looked at the AreoPrecisionUSA site, seen there I can buy their uppers and lowers un-anodized. I think I may go that route since i plan on doing a dura-coat camo paint job any way. Aluminum won't rust like a typical long gun so would there be any disadvantage to going the route of anon-anodized set. |
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Quoted: Thanks for the link, checked it out. Looked at the AreoPrecisionUSA site, seen there I can buy their uppers and lowers un-anodized. I think I may go that route since i plan on doing a dura-coat camo paint job any way. Aluminum won't rust like a typical long gun so would there be any disadvantage to going the route of anon-anodized set. Anodizing is not merely a paint job, it is an chemical reaction which treats the exposed aluminum surface. For the curious. You are correct that Al does not rust, but it does oxidize. I'm not sure about DuraCoat but I know that Cerakote can be applied over a properly prepared anodized surface. Reading the DuraCoat instructions before purchase seems prudent. And if you're planning to do the whole gun, keep in mind that your other parts will likely be either anodized or have a phosphate finish, so they will all be black.
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Quoted:
Anodizing is not merely a paint job, it is an chemical reaction which treats the exposed aluminum surface. For the curious. You are correct that Al does not rust, but it does oxidize. I'm not sure about DuraCoat but I know that Cerakote can be applied over a properly prepared anodized surface. Reading the DuraCoat instructions before purchase seems prudent. And if you're planning to do the whole gun, keep in mind that your other parts will likely be either anodized or have a phosphate finish, so they will all be black. Quoted:
Quoted:
Thanks for the link, checked it out. Looked at the AreoPrecisionUSA site, seen there I can buy their uppers and lowers un-anodized. I think I may go that route since i plan on doing a dura-coat camo paint job any way. Aluminum won't rust like a typical long gun so would there be any disadvantage to going the route of anon-anodized set. Anodizing is not merely a paint job, it is an chemical reaction which treats the exposed aluminum surface. For the curious. You are correct that Al does not rust, but it does oxidize. I'm not sure about DuraCoat but I know that Cerakote can be applied over a properly prepared anodized surface. Reading the DuraCoat instructions before purchase seems prudent. And if you're planning to do the whole gun, keep in mind that your other parts will likely be either anodized or have a phosphate finish, so they will all be black. I don't know what I was thinking. I knew aluminum oxidized. I'm a truck driver, I do battle with oxidized aluminum all the time. Thanks for reminding me. Not a battle I want, with a rifle. I'd rather be doing battle with those vicious Prairie Dogs, then polishing my gun. Sorry this thread took a left turn into coatings too. Back on topic, I was also looking at the Mega lower with the upper reciever tensioning screw. Accuracy wise is it worth the added cost. Also, I was looking at the VLTOR MUR-1A upper, would it be a good match to a AeroPrecision (leaning towards) or the MegaArm lowers? There are so many factures to concider when choosing your lower, now I understand how my wife can take 3 hrs to pick out 1 blouse.lol Thanks for all the great info guys. |
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