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Posted: 9/12/2015 11:04:37 AM EDT
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So I just built an AR for the first time. I used an Anderson lower and DSG parts kit. I got everything put together and it functions perfectly except for one tiny issue-the front takedown pin sticks in the closed position to the point where I need to take a punch and hammer to it to take down the gun. I tried sanding the pin down but that didn't help much. I tried the pin in a Spikes lower and it worked fine-no sticking at all, but when I put it in another Anderson lower it had the same problem. I suppose I could just buy an Anderson take down pin, but it seems like it should all work as-is.
Anybody have this happen? |
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I had the same issue with a PSA lower and a DSG kit. I just worked a few dozen times then through some oil on it and it has worked fine since then. I use DSG lpk's quite a bit and that was the only issue I've ever had with them. Did you have to force it with a punch? If so, how long doing that did it take? I'm just nervous with a punch around my newly created baby. Lol. I'm considering calling up Anderson and asking them for one of their takedown pins since their lower seems to be the problem here. |
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Quoted:
Did you have to force it with a punch? If so, how long doing that did it take? I'm just nervous with a punch around my newly created baby. Lol. I'm considering calling up Anderson and asking them for one of their takedown pins since their lower seems to be the problem here. Quoted:
Quoted:
I had the same issue with a PSA lower and a DSG kit. I just worked a few dozen times then through some oil on it and it has worked fine since then. I use DSG lpk's quite a bit and that was the only issue I've ever had with them. Did you have to force it with a punch? If so, how long doing that did it take? I'm just nervous with a punch around my newly created baby. Lol. I'm considering calling up Anderson and asking them for one of their takedown pins since their lower seems to be the problem here. I did use a punch for the first few times- maybe 10 or so. It was just what I would call "tight" but I could work it. Also, I did wrap my punch and hammer in electrical tape to keep it from scratching. I checked it earlier and it still a little tight, but usable and I rarely pull the upper all the way off- probably why I really haven't noticed it. ETA: once I could manipulate it without the hammer I put a little oil on it and that seemed to help quite a bit. But, honestly, I am just a "shade tree " gunsmith, and if it makes you really nervous, I think I'd proceed cautiously as to not have any regrets. It was like my 4-5 AR and I was going to paint it anyway so I wasn't too worried about scratches. |
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Did you lube the ever lovin' snot out of the pin, the spring and the detent? POUR some oil into the rear side of the pin and let it flow along the back side of the pin (where the groove is) and just sit for a bit. Yes, you'll have oil all over the place - that's a good thing with a brand new gun. But it will also let the detent move in and out of its tunnel smoothly. Failure to oil that part can keep it from moving much at all.
If you did thoroughly lubricate the detent, then think about what it looked like. It should look like this: 
The detent is supposed to be REALLY WELL beveled on both ends, which lets it move in and out of the stop at the end of the pin. The good news is that (except for what sort of punch you're using to pop the pin out) if the pin is moving at all, using a punch won't really hurt your gun. I highly recommend that you remove the pivot pin and its detent and detent spring, and examine the parts carefully. Look for the proper bevels on the pin, that the groove in the pivot pin is smooth, and that the spring is flexible. Then use an un-bent paperclip to make sure the tunnel for the spring is clear of obstructions. When you put it back together, oil it liberally. |
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Quoted:
Did you lube the ever lovin' snot out of the pin, the spring and the detent? POUR some oil into the rear side of the pin and let it flow along the back side of the pin (where the groove is) and just sit for a bit. Yes, you'll have oil all over the place - that's a good thing with a brand new gun. But it will also let the detent move in and out of its tunnel smoothly. Failure to oil that part can keep it from moving much at all. If you did thoroughly lubricate the detent, then think about what it looked like. It should look like this: http://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/880x660/Primary/136/136954.jpg The detent is supposed to be REALLY WELL beveled on both ends, which lets it move in and out of the stop at the end of the pin. The good news is that (except for what sort of punch you're using to pop the pin out) if the pin is moving at all, using a punch won't really hurt your gun. I highly recommend that you remove the pivot pin and its detent and detent spring, and examine the parts carefully. Look for the proper bevels on the pin, that the groove in the pivot pin is smooth, and that the spring is flexible. Then use an un-bent paperclip to make sure the tunnel for the spring is clear of obstructions. When you put it back together, oil it liberally. I tried the pin without the spring and detent with gobs of lube....in two Andersons and a 2 Spikes-both Andersons had the problem, but not the spikes |
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Quoted:
I did use a punch for the first few times- maybe 10 or so. It was just what I would call "tight" but I could work it. Also, I did wrap my punch and hammer in electrical tape to keep it from scratching. I checked it earlier and it still a little tight, but usable and I rarely pull the upper all the way off- probably why I really haven't noticed it. ETA: once I could manipulate it without the hammer I put a little oil on it and that seemed to help quite a bit. But, honestly, I am just a "shade tree " gunsmith, and if it makes you really nervous, I think I'd proceed cautiously as to not have any regrets. It was like my 4-5 AR and I was going to paint it anyway so I wasn't too worried about scratches. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I had the same issue with a PSA lower and a DSG kit. I just worked a few dozen times then through some oil on it and it has worked fine since then. I use DSG lpk's quite a bit and that was the only issue I've ever had with them. Did you have to force it with a punch? If so, how long doing that did it take? I'm just nervous with a punch around my newly created baby. Lol. I'm considering calling up Anderson and asking them for one of their takedown pins since their lower seems to be the problem here. I did use a punch for the first few times- maybe 10 or so. It was just what I would call "tight" but I could work it. Also, I did wrap my punch and hammer in electrical tape to keep it from scratching. I checked it earlier and it still a little tight, but usable and I rarely pull the upper all the way off- probably why I really haven't noticed it. ETA: once I could manipulate it without the hammer I put a little oil on it and that seemed to help quite a bit. But, honestly, I am just a "shade tree " gunsmith, and if it makes you really nervous, I think I'd proceed cautiously as to not have any regrets. It was like my 4-5 AR and I was going to paint it anyway so I wasn't too worried about scratches. It is not movable unless I use the punch....and I've done the punch manuver 6-7 times as well as sanding the pin down a little....sadly no real change:( |
| Does the detent spring go all the way into the tunnel before you put the detent in? It should sit about 1/16+ below the top/front of the tunnel before you put the detent in. If it's too tall, or if pushing the spring in with a punch doesn't feel smooth, there's a problem with the tunnel. It could simply be the anodizing is gunked up inside the tunnel. |
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It's the detent. Discard it and use a different one This. I had this exact issue with stuck pins using an Anderson and DI "NiB" coated detents (never again). Every NiB detent had the tip shear off. Replaced with normal mil spec detents and all was well again. |
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Quoted:
This. I had this exact issue with stuck pins using an Anderson and DI "NiB" coated detents (never again). Every NiB detent had the tip shear off. Replaced with normal mil spec detents and all was well again. Quoted:
Quoted:
It's the detent. Discard it and use a different one This. I had this exact issue with stuck pins using an Anderson and DI "NiB" coated detents (never again). Every NiB detent had the tip shear off. Replaced with normal mil spec detents and all was well again. Not to be a dick, but this is the 3rd time I've said that I tried the front takedown pin with No spring or detent, just the pin. It appears that the lower is milled too small for the pin. Again, when I put the same pins in 3 different Spike's lowers they fit perfectly and were able to slide freely, upon putting the same pin in another Anderson lower it got stuck in exactly the same way. 
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It's now sounds like the ID of the take down pin HOLES is too small. I'm not aware of modern lowers requiring a propriarty take down pin. Agreed-not sure how to fix this-I'm hoping that it's a standard thing from Anderson(front takedown pin on lower slightly undercut) and they will send me some pins that fit(hopefully pin undercut as well) but if that's not the case and this is a specific problem with mine, then this will turn into a real pain in the ass.:( |
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Quoted:
Not to be a dick, but this is the 3rd time I've said that I tried the front takedown pin with No spring or detent, just the pin. It appears that the lower is milled too small for the pin. Again, when I put the same pins in 3 different Spike's lowers they fit perfectly and were able to slide freely, upon putting the same pin in another Anderson lower it got stuck in exactly the same way. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
It's the detent. Discard it and use a different one This. I had this exact issue with stuck pins using an Anderson and DI "NiB" coated detents (never again). Every NiB detent had the tip shear off. Replaced with normal mil spec detents and all was well again. Not to be a dick, but this is the 3rd time I've said that I tried the front takedown pin with No spring or detent, just the pin. It appears that the lower is milled too small for the pin. Again, when I put the same pins in 3 different Spike's lowers they fit perfectly and were able to slide freely, upon putting the same pin in another Anderson lower it got stuck in exactly the same way. Sorry, I missed that post. Usually the problem is with the detents. Since yours is the actual fit of the pin through the receiver, if it will still go in, that's much less so. "Tight" is not an issue. If it goes in (even with a punch) leave it be. It will loosen up over time. If it would NOT go in (at all)... then there's a problem. |
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Quoted:
Agreed-not sure how to fix this-I'm hoping that it's a standard thing from Anderson(front takedown pin on lower slightly undercut) and they will send me some pins that fit(hopefully pin undercut as well) but if that's not the case and this is a specific problem with mine, then this will turn into a real pain in the ass.:( Quoted:
Quoted:
It's now sounds like the ID of the take down pin HOLES is too small. I'm not aware of modern lowers requiring a propriarty take down pin. Agreed-not sure how to fix this-I'm hoping that it's a standard thing from Anderson(front takedown pin on lower slightly undercut) and they will send me some pins that fit(hopefully pin undercut as well) but if that's not the case and this is a specific problem with mine, then this will turn into a real pain in the ass.:( Just put it in and leave it. It'll loosen up. No point in making this harder than it needs to be. You won't damage anything. |
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Quoted:
Sorry, I missed that post. Usually the problem is with the detents. Since yours is the actual fit of the pin through the receiver, if it will still go in, that's much less so. "Tight" is not an issue. If it goes in (even with a punch) leave it be. It will loosen up over time. If it would NOT go in (at all)... then there's a problem. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
It's the detent. Discard it and use a different one This. I had this exact issue with stuck pins using an Anderson and DI "NiB" coated detents (never again). Every NiB detent had the tip shear off. Replaced with normal mil spec detents and all was well again. Not to be a dick, but this is the 3rd time I've said that I tried the front takedown pin with No spring or detent, just the pin. It appears that the lower is milled too small for the pin. Again, when I put the same pins in 3 different Spike's lowers they fit perfectly and were able to slide freely, upon putting the same pin in another Anderson lower it got stuck in exactly the same way. Sorry, I missed that post. Usually the problem is with the detents. Since yours is the actual fit of the pin through the receiver, if it will still go in, that's much less so. "Tight" is not an issue. If it goes in (even with a punch) leave it be. It will loosen up over time. If it would NOT go in (at all)... then there's a problem. No problem:) The gun is totally together with the detent and spring in-it just requires a punch to remove. I just like taking the upper off to clean. How long has it taken to work loose for you guys? |
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