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5/9/2007 9:46:01 PM EDT
Yeah, this goes outside the normal lane for BIY, but are there any recommendations for annodizing shops that will take small parts like one lower in the white and can do Type III spec finishes?  

Any comment on thermal cure finishes in lieu of Type III anno?  I can and have done gunkote here without problems, but it was always over a substrate of OEM annodizing.  I'm concerned about surface hardness over cosmetics, it's going to get hit with krylon or GK later anyway probably.
5/10/2007 7:00:00 AM EDT
[#1]
I've never used them, but I've seen a lot of folks here use US Anodizing.  They seem to be happy.  I understand NoDak Spud are using them for all of their lowers.  I'm planning to use them to do an early dark Colt gray for a retro build.  When I looked at their price list, they charged $75 for a lower, which seems steep to me, but if their quality is high, I guess it is worth it.

US Anodizing
5/10/2007 1:21:30 PM EDT
[#2]
Yeah, that was the one recommendation I got off-board.  $75 isn't cheap, but if it's a good Type III finish it will pay off in the long run.
5/10/2007 8:17:33 PM EDT
[#3]
Why not anodize it yourself? Forget the intructions with battery chargers, there are reasons you need a dedicated power supply. Read up on www.roderuscustom.tzo.com  We set up in one afternoon at minimal cost - really not that hard to do. and yes its the same anodizing that Bushmaster, DPMS, etc. use.
5/10/2007 9:45:22 PM EDT
[#4]
Have you thought of looking at paintball anodizers?  You could at least ask them what kind of finishes and for pricing...I know i've seen some amazing work from these places with fantastic finishes.  I'm not sure if they do firearms, but...worth asking anyways

http://www.125customs.com/anodizing.html
http://www.gruntbull.com
http://www.oddpb.com

might be worthwhile if they can do it for cheap and do it well for you.
5/11/2007 9:15:56 AM EDT
[#5]
For one, the paintball places are showing Type II annodizing, and there is a difference.  I also don't have room to set up another low-yield process (I need to do ONE lower) here.
5/11/2007 11:50:32 AM EDT
[#6]

Quoted:
For one, the paintball places are showing Type II annodizing, and there is a difference.  I also don't have room to set up another low-yield process (I need to do ONE lower) here.


sorry, didn't know it was type II, just trying to help...looks like if you want quality, you'll have to pay for it.
5/11/2007 5:23:21 PM EDT
[#7]
No problem, many don't know the difference.  Anybody that's beat on a Surefire 6P and an E2e does though  ;)
5/11/2007 7:50:06 PM EDT
[#8]
Why not simply refinish with Norrell's Molyresin?   They have the color you want.
5/12/2007 1:29:21 AM EDT
[#9]
You'll rarely get a good black finish on a Type 3 anodizing.  Most manufacturers use Type 3 for it's value on the surface enhancements, not the color.  The T3 finishes that I work with are black, but with either a greenish or purplish tent to it.

US Anodizing does our lowers, Type 2, and they are fantastic.  

You also need to consider the surface of the part prior to anodizing.  The anodizing will reflect the surface.  Most receivers are blasted with variations of Aluminum Oxide to give it the dull texture.  Bead blasting will give it more shine.  So when picking a place, you need to check to see if they can do the surface prep.
5/22/2007 9:20:12 AM EDT
[#10]

Quoted:
For one, the paintball places are showing Type II annodizing, and there is a difference.  I also don't have room to set up another low-yield process (I need to do ONE lower) here.


Sorry cheif you should read a little closer.


We offer Type II and III (for type III contact our sales staff for scheduling and availability) anodizing for the small machine shop at prices you can afford. Low minimums and fast turn around afford the home machine shop owner the opportunity to have their aluminum parts finished in a professional manner. Keep in mind that Type II anodizing will add approximately 0.75 to 1 mil to the dimension of your part so please allow for this. Our finish meets MILSPEC 8265F for Type II thick anodizing requirements of at least 18 microns


www.gruntbull.com

Look under the services tab.

Thanks

5/22/2007 9:26:40 AM EDT
[#11]
Fact is, almost all the lower manufacturers we trust & love actually use Type II even if their websites claim "Type III" , mil spec, etc - don't believe the hype. For our uses (what exaclty are they, anyway?!?) Type II is fine.  Tell me all about how your next use of your lower will be on a submarine deployment/underwater/beach-landing and then we can talk about practical differences between Type II and Type III.
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