AR Sponsor
Posted: 7/4/2007 9:23:48 AM EDT
|
her It started like this...Parts (note NO holes in Lower!): http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/5829/67119554fw1.jpg Then some machining using one of Jasons (CNCMachining) jigs......it's sitting on a machinist glass flat truing plate.http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/4383/49567419cr1.jpg Then there's a little drilling woik:http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/4002/66196551bm9.jpg Ahhhhhh....the buffer tube......she fits like a glove!:http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/6481/70338795tp0.jpg Well, after a few hours more of tinkering.......here's some final shots: http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/9409/74156566mr3.jpg http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/2182/40626395mu5.jpg http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/6651/75425550ue1.jpg http://img71.imageshack.us/img71/1230/25851641wf1.jpg and finally with his new Brother!!! http://img238.imageshack.us/img238/1368/10ik7.jpg And the best part is........IT WORKS!!!!!! hese All I need is a few more bucks and I can start another one........ |
|
Thanks for the positive input, I really appreciate it hought O yeah.......and the big lump under them is my wife.......asleep!hahahhaahahaha |
|
To to post pics......use http://www.imageshack.us/ and then use the link for direct to image.....that works good. What's the diff between type II and III anodizing? I've thought about doing some self anodizing......(WOW that sounds Nasty!!!!!!!!!!!!) hock.gif But so far I'm happy with my naked lowers and the KNS anti rotate stuff. I really get some strange looks from peeps at the range....."errrr.......what kinna gunizzat?" and so on. My next step though, will be to put some kind of numbers on them and then coat 'em. Damn.......This is fun! |
| Type II is pretty much your standard anodizing and color dye. It is posible to do this at home with the right equipment. However I tried and failed twice, so I went to the pros. Type III is anodizing done at colder temps and with a higher current density. The type III is also a thicker layer on the surface, approx. .003", but can be controlled between .002" and .003". This thicker coating makes the surface harder than the type II, and therefore more durable and corrosion resistant, but it will usually only dye well with dark colors. The way anodizing works is the layer created forms peaks and valleys on the surface, you end up with half the layer penetrating into the aluminum, and the other half grown above the surface. So the thicker type III would require more clearance in the holes for everything to fit properly after anodizing. Since I drilled my holes 1/2 size small for a tighter fit, I didn't have the necessary clearance for the type III, so I went with type II and ended up with hammer and trigger pins that when instaled from the left side are about .0001" clearance and on the right side when fully installed they are a very slight press fit, so they do not rotate with the inernal parts. Gonna try the pic thing and get a new topic started with them so you can check it out. Remember that anodizng is not really cost effective for one lower, I brought all 4 of mine in at once since there was a minimum lot fee of $65 for the process, so as many as they could fit in the tank at one time would have been $65 for all of em(and they use large tanks) |
|
Mine before anodizing.... [img=img184.imageshack.us/img184/8674/1004439vy4.th.jpg] |
|
Mine after anodizing... [img=img67.imageshack.us/img67/2670/1004411la5.th.jpg] |
|
And a close up for ya... http://img474.imageshack.us/img474/8923/1004712sg1.th.jpg |
OMFG! THERE IS NO SERIAL NUMBER!!!!!!!!!! THE SKY IS FALLING!!!!!!! PHOTO OF ILLEGAL GUN POSTED ON THE INTERNET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (joke of course - he is not required to have a serial number on his AR since he built it himself). Nice work both of you. Who's 80% did you start with? Last time I checked, the suppliers still out there were Tannery Shop, and for just the mag-well broached (more like 20%) there was Les Baer. Anyone else still offering 80%? |
| I used one from ar15plus.com and the others are from Kevin who you will find on the cncguns.com website. Kevins are much nicer and internally to spec. the one from ar15plus.com was undersize in the fcg pocket, so I had to file down the fcg parts and rearlug of the upper by about .050" |
| OK I have to ask, While its cool to build your own lower and all whats the benifit ? I looked at the site listed in the link. I am usre I can do this with my current tools outfit ans skill set, I can buy lowers alot cheaper than building them. the 80% is 120 IF you mention CNCGUNS. hell a new one is 100 - 110 finnished. So whats the point besides not having a serial number and manufactures markings? |
Maybe that is the point. Also look at the surrounding shop in the pics and you'll notice the shop they were built in. Indicating that the money has already been invested in the tools. So it could be wastefull for the builder to not use the tools he already has. Thats where the money would be saved. Those casts (I think) can be as cheap as 25. bucks. Thats 4 recievers for the price of 1 finnished. Shipped to his door. Now imagine saving FFL transfer fees X 4. Theres another 100. to 160. saved. Besides of course the satisfaction. I sure as hell couldnt do that. Thats why I (spend more moneyhed Great job Grime. I wish you were my neighbor |
|
The number one reason for me was to say “I made it my self.” Another reason was I could engrave what I wanted. Then their’s the cost (I’m a cheap ass!) why buy, when I can make it at work, and get paid to do it. Other people here might have other reasons to. Gryme, Very nice job! I'm trying to get another blank from my friend, so I can start another one. |
|
I couldn’t justify buying the jigs, So I made mine out of a aluminum plate with 2 dowel pins that line up with the take down and pivot pin holes. Then just clamp down as needed. The blanks I used just had the take down and pivot pin, FCG, and selector holes drilled, And the mating surface to the upper machined. |
Well around these parts, a finished stripped lower is more like $145 and up, plus the transfer fee, plus the nics call. So for me, since I was gonna end up having one for each member of the family, it was much more cost effective to to them myself. As Rusty said also, there is the added benefit of a completely blank canvas for engraving whatever your heart may desire(I simply haven't decided on a design/logo or markings yet, when I do, it'll go off to the laser engraver) Then of course, there's always the bragging rights. I took mine out yesterday for it's test fire/break in, put 100 rounds through her without a single hiccup, and let my buddies try it out. They kept making comments about shooting a rifle that I had build on my kitchen table. I took that as a compliment. Besides, it's just plain fun, and I got to learn all the intricate details about the rifle and how it functions. And if everyone knew just how easy it really was to do, and some jigs that are out there got floated around the community, the big manufacturers may have some competition.... |
|
Thanks to all of you ARFCOMER's that read and have responded to my post........I appreciate the input good or otherwise!hyTo me, it's simple...... It's the challenge. hock.gif Even with a great jig (thanks CNC) and a so so drill press and machining table.....(credit to Harbor frieght......I guess).......it is still VERY intimidating and somewhat stressfull to take a chunk of veri semi machined AL and in the end, it becomes a working rifle! I mean......one mistake (trigger or hammer pivot holes for example) is off.........and I really do end up with a nice, EXSPENSIVE, allthough very cool............. PAPERWEIGHT.herNot what I want to accomplish. So for me, the challenge is there......and Yes.........I have the tools.......and sometimes the time.......and so far..........I got 2 hat And that blows my mind!hinking.gif See ya on the Range! |
|
It's just a big tap........in fact some of the most exspensive tools are the big drill bit and tap for the buffer tube hole........those 2 tools are about 80 -100 bucks. You'd still need to drill the hole out to fit and JB weld the buffer tube in and grind the threads off ala Mudjaheen style. Getting the hole and threading straight......that's another story!hock.gif |
I can't answer for Gryme, but I used the same jig and quite frankly, "it's so easy, a cave man could do it" comes to mind. Really. If everyone knew how easy it really was, they would all be doing it. And yes, i did mine on a Craftsman 12" table top drill press. Just make sure your table is 90 degrees to the chuck on both axis, and go slow with plenty of lube. |
I've done one of their ARs and a couple of the 1911s. The stainless 1911 is a waste of time, it rusts. Ordered from them twice, had credit card fraud problems immediately afterwards both times. The first time started just up the street from their mail drop. They don't seem to be a real company. If you call, you get a phone service for several buisinesses that usually can't contact anybody. I don't recommend anything but PMOs to William at the Tannery Shop for 1911s. Never done an M9. |
AR Sponsor