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Posted: 6/14/2024 4:50:19 PM EST
[#1]
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Posted: 6/15/2024 6:14:37 AM EST
[#2]
I used the various the techniques mentioned in those links and did several projects of fakelite. I used cerakote for its durability and resistance to solvents.
Multiple applications, wet sanding, and baking in between. Be careful baking foam filled buttstocks, the ones from Numrich are full of water. The steam will mess up the coating, and the foam expands. I had posted details before, but It probably got archived. Not a hard process, just tedious, but not hard to figure out. Some of my stuff:        
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Posted: 6/15/2024 8:45:23 AM EST
[#3]
I like the fact that you can use the process to replicate furniture that never existed
 
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Posted: 6/15/2024 10:54:06 AM EST
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I like the fact that you can use the process to replicate furniture that never existed https://i.imgur.com/1NJeyMS.jpg I do like that look. I need to try it on a build at some point. May get a set cerakoted though rather than my pant fakelite I've used so far. |
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Posted: 6/15/2024 12:43:35 PM EST
[#5]
All I can say is I am really wow'd by all the cool fakelite photos in this thread. I wish I could do it. I just stick to painting things Kona Brown and leave it at that - Wish I could do it like you guys.
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Posted: 6/15/2024 5:32:20 PM EST
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I used the various the techniques mentioned in those links and did several projects of fakelite. I used cerakote for its durability and resistance to solvents. Multiple applications, wet sanding, and baking in between. Be careful baking foam filled buttstocks, the ones from Numrich are full of water. The steam will mess up the coating, and the foam expands. I had posted details before, but It probably got archived. Not a hard process, just tedious, but not hard to figure out. Some of my stuff: https://i.postimg.cc/fLqmPnPG/PXL-20240211-200533073.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/P5HyYhny/PXL-20240212-200517346.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/LX5ZLQsN/PXL-20240213-211955680.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/8kqtkMyq/PXL-20230827-181559129.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/tJLPXdpD/PXL-20230827-181423828.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/wxtwd0kX/PXL-20230728-131814856-2.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/P5nZ9M65/1013221057.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/XY5LyJPp/PXL-20231228-173246750-MP.jpg The linked guides should have enough to get started. I could use advice on the best colors and materials, and could also use super high definition photos or original parts. The only bakelite I have to go off of is AK mags and bayonet handles. To be honest, I'm on a huge Fallout kick, and am considering building my 601 lower into a base for an NCR service rifle. It will look pretty similar to a 601, but I'll probably use a C7 upper instead of a slab side. Most buy wood furniture for these builds, but I'm thinking fakealite will look better. I could also use advice on lower engraving and the best font for a Colt style "property of US government" roll mark. |
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Posted: 6/15/2024 7:09:05 PM EST
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The linked guides should have enough to get started. I could use advice on the best colors and materials, and could also use super high definition photos or original parts. The only bakelite I have to go off of is AK mags and bayonet handles. To be honest, I'm on a huge Fallout kick, and am considering building my 601 lower into a base for an NCR service rifle. It will look pretty similar to a 601, but I'll probably use a C7 upper instead of a slab side. Most buy wood furniture for these builds, but I'm thinking fakealite will look better. I could also use advice on lower engraving and the best font for a Colt style "property of US government" roll mark. All those items have new owners, so no hi res pics. I just went off other pics. Layered the colors. A brick red color, federal brown, black, fde, a lighter brown. I also mixed those colors to make other colors. I used crumpled nitrile gloves to make the random patterns blotting. Bake, wetsand, clearcoat for depth, additional blotted layers, repeat... As far as fonts, I don't know, I just sit with the engraver guy and we look at pics and play with it. |
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Posted: 6/15/2024 7:38:10 PM EST
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Those are beautiful, especially the armalite prototype! The linked guides should have enough to get started. I could use advice on the best colors and materials, and could also use super high definition photos or original parts. The only bakelite I have to go off of is AK mags and bayonet handles. To be honest, I'm on a huge Fallout kick, and am considering building my 601 lower into a base for an NCR service rifle. It will look pretty similar to a 601, but I'll probably use a C7 upper instead of a slab side. Most buy wood furniture for these builds, but I'm thinking fakealite will look better. I could also use advice on lower engraving and the best font for a Colt style "property of US government" roll mark.  Attached File |
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Posted: 6/15/2024 10:36:54 PM EST
[#9]
Quote HistoryOption one is that lower, paired with a black C7 style upper, DIY fakealite handguards, and get someone on etsy to make me a stamp with the NCR seal so I can paint it on the other side of the mag well in the style of US arsenal marks. Option two is to get an H&R lower with M16A1 markings and do the same but in Colt Gray. Option three, which is where I'm leaning, is use my Nodak Spud 601 lower which is currently collecting dust in a box, and get it engraved. Mock up below. I have an XM177E2 that has a barrel with some issues that I've been considering replacing. I could scrap it, get a 20" barrel and use it for this build (it is a forward assist A1 upper) and then turn the SBR into a 9mm clone. That would be a very fun gun, cheaper to shoot than 556 these days, and I could look really cool shooting USPSA matches.   Attached File |
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Posted: 6/16/2024 9:51:34 AM EST
[#10]
I hear you on an A1 lower. I wasn't too bugged over that though considering the game gun actually is more of a slabside, no fence lower, 601 style, and well, I was cloning a gun that didn't actually exist anyway, lol. If you have that 601 lower anyway though you're good to go.
I like the NCR design. If you decide you don't mind the A2 profile, Bad Attitude will do custom engraving fora very reasonable price too. I've had a number of custom engraved lowers done by them now. |
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Posted: 6/16/2024 10:52:04 AM EST
[#11]
Quote HistoryI NEED ONE!!  Attached File |
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Posted: 6/16/2024 11:19:47 AM EST
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Wait, WHAT!?!?!?!?!? Is that lower available or is it an 80% that you had engraved? I NEED ONE!! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/72476/want__1__jpg-3242651.JPG It's available from Bad Attitude Department. They have all sorts of cool clone lowers and will do customs. They are A2 profile though so it depends on your level of OCD, or how accurate you're trying to get on a build. |
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Posted: 6/16/2024 3:15:43 PM EST
[#13]
I did more googling, and probably found the coolest NCR service rifle to date; this is from reddit.
https://www.reddit.com/r/RetroAR/comments/183d869/ncr_service_rifle_build/  Attached File Attached File Attached FileAs usual, my idea for a simple project starts to explode in complexity form the very beginning (current project is converting a 70's Coca Cola machine into a nuka cola machine, which evolved from a simple sign change repaint to building a complicated light box with a mini tv on top). In the short term, I plan to attempt the fakelite handguards. I went ahead and ordered a set from Numerich. If the stock is totally hosed, I have a spare A1 I can butcher instead. In fact I plan to go to menards shortly to get some paints. What I'm now wondering about is the feasibility of getting either an 80% engraved, or talking to the company that did the other fallout lower to get a custom engraving, to get a lower with similar markings to the rifle I just linked. Then, buy a few 80% forgings and butcher them to reprofile them into either a partial fence or slab side lower. Then attempt it on the properly marked lower and cerakote to get it to match a colt gray. I'm assuming the engravers won't touch a completed 80%, even if it does have ATF compliant makers marks, and I'm also assuming none of the anodizing places will touch it. |
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Posted: 6/16/2024 9:32:50 PM EST
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It's available from Bad Attitude Department. They have all sorts of cool clone lowers and will do customs. They are A2 profile though so it depends on your level of OCD, or how accurate you're trying to get on a build. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Wait, WHAT!?!?!?!?!? Is that lower available or is it an 80% that you had engraved? I NEED ONE!! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/72476/want__1__jpg-3242651.JPG It's available from Bad Attitude Department. They have all sorts of cool clone lowers and will do customs. They are A2 profile though so it depends on your level of OCD, or how accurate you're trying to get on a build. Thanks! I don't need it for a fallout? clone. I'm digging the Long Branch markings. |
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Posted: 6/17/2024 5:13:01 AM EST
[#15]
I have those pics saved in my photo reference library too. I think they are the coolest Fallout themed lower markings I've seen.
Bad Attitude could do something like that, I've had a number of customs done by them, and two more on the way this week. As to completed 80% engraving, I don't know about sending them out somewhere, but my local NFA shop will do custom engraving if you bring it in. He does a lot of clone lower engraving on 80's or stuff luck PSA Stealth or BAD Low Key lowers. Maybe there'ss omething like that by you? Keep in mind most 80% lowers will need reprofiled too though. I know this won't be be everyone's bag here, but I did a S.H.I.E.L.D. M4 with an 80%.  Attached FileAs to Colt Gray, I always thought the game gun pics looked more black? That's what even the more anal FNV Service Rifle clone guys seem to go with. Just preference on the gray? |
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Posted: 6/17/2024 5:22:35 AM EST
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks! I don't need it for a fallout? clone. I'm digging the Long Branch markings. You could do a custom with Long Branch markings without the Fallout stuff if you wanted. Or, they have an option to stamp them like the old M1 Carbine and M1 Garanad manufacturers, which I'm tempted by as well. M1 maker Marked AR Lowers I'm a big fan of BAD for lowers. Joel that runs it is a nice guy, I met him at SHOT, and I think he's doing pretty neat stuff at reasonable prices. The lowers themselves are good too. I have at least a half dozen and no issues on builds or function. They look clean. If it isn't in stock, and you're waiting for anodizing it might take a couple weeks but that's mentioned on the order form so you know going into it. It actually says 6-8 week lead time but I've never waited any where close to that. |
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Posted: 6/17/2024 10:13:42 AM EST
[#17]
I got things to think about for sure when it comes to the lower. I looked up bad attitude, and I only live about an hour away. I'll contact them at some point.
Back to the topic at hand for fakealite handguards; I've continued to search the web for good reference photos, but alas a lot of the best collections were photographed before the modern era of gigabit internet and are not as detailed was would be ideal. In the photos I have seen, some originals from the Reed Knight collection and others in the 601 reference collection vary in color from pure brown to a more reddish brown with lots of tan mottling. The mottling looks more "swirly" than it does in an AKM bakelite mag. My concern is that the key is to uniformally cover the brown in tan mottling, but also make it look understated. I'm wondering if the best plan is to do several coats of brown, go crazy with the tan mottling using a sponge, and then sand most of it off, followed by clear coat? |
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Posted: 6/17/2024 10:25:23 AM EST
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I used the various the techniques mentioned in those links and did several projects of fakelite. I used cerakote for its durability and resistance to solvents. Multiple applications, wet sanding, and baking in between. Be careful baking foam filled buttstocks, the ones from Numrich are full of water. The steam will mess up the coating, and the foam expands. I had posted details before, but It probably got archived. Not a hard process, just tedious, but not hard to figure out. Some of my stuff: https://i.postimg.cc/fLqmPnPG/PXL-20240211-200533073.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/P5HyYhny/PXL-20240212-200517346.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/LX5ZLQsN/PXL-20240213-211955680.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/8kqtkMyq/PXL-20230827-181559129.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/tJLPXdpD/PXL-20230827-181423828.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/wxtwd0kX/PXL-20230728-131814856-2.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/P5nZ9M65/1013221057.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/XY5LyJPp/PXL-20231228-173246750-MP.jpg Also, I did end up ordering a numerich stock set. How hot is safe to bake one of these stock sets in the first place, and should I consider pre-baking it to remove moisture? ETA found the guide! https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/Fake-Bakelite-attempts-for-601/123-776102/ |
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Posted: 6/17/2024 5:38:22 PM EST
[#19]
This is what Brutus Manufacturing does for their cerakote fakelite. Not sure if that helps or not but it seems more swirly to me?
 Attached File |
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Posted: 6/17/2024 7:38:14 PM EST
[#20]
what do they charge for a set of those? Is that using newly manufactured furniture, or using vintage surplus?
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Posted: 6/17/2024 8:35:02 PM EST
[#21]
Not sure. I think they may be doing customer supplied stocks if I recall some earlier stuff from Reddit.
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Posted: 6/17/2024 8:37:25 PM EST
[#22]
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Posted: 6/18/2024 10:05:47 AM EST
[#23]
Quote HistoryAwesome, that's what I needed to see! Okay, so I think I have a plan; I'm going to try this with rustoleum instead of cerakote. Whatever materials I use, I'll post up here or do a follow on thread. But my tentative plan is; 1) Clean/degrease+primer. 2) Spray a medium brown, probably several coats. 3) use fine sponge or nitrile gloves to make the swirlies using a light brown/dark tan color, followed by wet sanding, to remove most of it. 4) Use a dark reddish brown paint with crinkled trash bags to make the larger red chunks as seen in the photo above. Wet sand after drying to remove texture take the edge off. 5) Clear coat with a satin 2k clear after thoroughly dry. |
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Posted: 6/18/2024 11:01:42 AM EST
[#24]
Something I noticed from observing real Bakelite grips and stocks (including AR-10 grips) is that they seemed to be filled with chopped canvas. You can sometimes see small chunks with a fine cloth weave pattern. Too small to be woven glass.
Only the hand guards seem to be actual fiberglass. Could probably reproduce that by dabbing some old denim or something into the paint in a few small places. |
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Posted: 6/19/2024 9:07:00 AM EST
[#25]
Well, I had mostly decided I was going to get my Nodak lower engraved, and then I discovered electroetching. The main guy making stencils even has one for the NCR. However, these stencils appear to just be cricut vinyl, and I have a cricut machine, so I can theoretically make them myself.
http://www.dogfightink.com/80percentlowersmarkings2.html So now I just need to reprofile an 80% lower to retro specs, make it, electroetch it so it doesn't look like crap, figure out some way to finish it (diy anodizing?) followed by cerakote to make it match Nodak/H&R parts. Simple. A mock up of the Nodak lower.  Attached FileMockup of what I want if I go the 80% electro etch route.  Attached File |
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Posted: 6/19/2024 12:44:34 PM EST
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So now I just need to reprofile an 80% lower to retro specs, make it, electroetch it so it doesn't look like crap, figure out some way to finish it (diy anodizing?) followed by cerakote to make it match Nodak/H&R parts. Simple. Norrell's Moly Resin works great for home finishing. You just need a cheap airbrush from Amazon and you can bake it in your oven. I've done a number of uppers and lowers to match up with Colt Gray parts. Norrell finished upper on a Nodak lower.  Attached File |
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Posted: 6/20/2024 9:31:58 PM EST
[#27]
Alright, I bought some Rustoleum primer and brown paint to lay the base layer. Numerich stock set should arrive tomorrow. I also got some testors model paints, sponges and nitrile gloves to try to make the swirlies. Lastly I ordered a 2K clear coat.
I guess my question is, how glossy were the originals? A lot of the photos of originals appear super glossy. Just want to make sure I don't make them over the top glossy if that isn't what they originally looked like. |
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Posted: 6/21/2024 6:03:57 PM EST
[#28]
I did what all of you told me not to do; I bought a cheap stock set on Numerich.
I was expecting to be rough, but damn... The handguards and pistol grip are fine, but the stock smells moldy and the sling swivel was rusted. I got it moving a bit, but I really need to remove it to soak in vinegar. The roll pin is also stuck. What is the best way to handle this without destroying the stock? Also, the rubber butt pad isn't in the best shape. Any way to clean it up and make it look less grungy? there are micro cracks in the rubber. Also, is acetone safe to clean the plastic and rubber?  Attached File |
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